akirby

The rod is called a strut and it holds the door open and makes it easier to open. You need a new one. See the ford dealer or you can just measure it and find a replacement of the same size at any auto parts store or online.

Plug could cause the misfire and lean condition but the other code is specific to an injector problem. The spark plug should probably be changed though.

A faulty injector (P201) would cause the other two. Start with the injector.

Could be a wheel speed sensor.

Do you find they last longer?

Hate to say I told you so but.........

Good grief fellas. THIS is the 2016 MKX save for the mirrors and door handles and a few minor tweaks. http://www.lincoln.com/2016-mkx-concept/

In my experience longer battery warranties don't yield longer life batteries, just more up front cost which might be recovered in proration. I just get the cheap ones and they last 3-3.5 years - same as the expensive ones. YMMV

If the dealer says the order is being held up due to the wheels, then that's your answer.

See if you can get the service guy to ride with you in your mkx and another AWD edge or mkx back to back in the same conditions. That's the best way to see if it's normal or not. If it was the PTU I'd expect it to happen any time rear torque kicks in - like WOT launches.

Most buyers won't know about it or care. Only techophiles are going to care. And don't forget the 2015 Edge was originally supposed to be on sale last fall and was delayed. If it's important to you - wait for the 2016.

Go back and read the entire thread. It's not upgradeable.

It hasn't launched yet and they haven't started building customer orders yet so it's a little early to be too concerned. If there is a problem with a specific option that will be communicated to the dealers.

Google is your friend: http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/47355-battery-went-dead-now-cd-play-is-broke/

There is no danger if you use the spare that comes with the vehicle. Ford has taken that into account with the AWD software. If something failed it wasn't because you used the factory spare.

Yes there is something different - in some cases a faulty park detector switch was at fault. But it could also just be a bad battery - they seem to be more common nowadays - not sure why.

Looks like a dealer might be able to change it with their IDS tool. Here is an example: http://www.justanswer.com/car-electronics/3hy1g-buy-2011-mustang-gt-premium-5-0-usa.html That may not work with all radio types though.

I'm sure there is someone who knows how to do it via software or converter. That would be cheaper. Did you ask the Ford dealer?

You should be able to remove the fan from under the glove box without removing anything. It should only be 3 bolts.

I think you have to replace the radio but not 100% sure.

CD changers have moving parts. Moving parts fail much more frequently than electronics. Stuff happens. Could also just be a coincidence.

Easy fix - already incorporated into existing models. You'd think they would have caught it in testing.

QNX has nothing whatsoever to do with the design of the application (user interface). You could run sync 3 on windows or MFT on QNX (with modifications but the same user interface).

It does suck, but it's not unheard of. My guess is it was on its way out anyway and jump starting just finished the job.

Uh-oh. If you're sure you pulled the right fuse then it might be fubar. I would try pulling the negative battery cable just to be 100% sure that everything got reset. If that doesn't fix it I think it's hosed.