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akirby

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Everything posted by akirby

  1. Based on cd4 so should be the same as 2013+ Fusion. Not sure if that's the same as current edge but should be easy to find out.
  2. That sounds a lot like that aftermarket system that was self-contained and just tapped into the display.
  3. I think you can also erase the old codes yourself if you have the factory code. Check the owner's manual.
  4. Haven't heard of an official Ford product for that - it could be an aftermarket unit that just uses the mft screen. See if your dealer can give you more details including part numbers.
  5. First - I think Ford should extend the warranty on these parts. That said you need to understand that Ford dealers are not Ford. Ford has NO CONTROL over what dealers charge for non-warranty repairs and diagnostics. Each dealer is an independent business and Ford is prohibited by law from interfering. If you're being gouged on the repair blame the dealership not Ford. But you can certainly blame Ford for these faulty parts without an extended warranty. You should also take muddro's advice and do it yourself or get an independent mechanic to replace it for you for a LOT less than the dealerships.
  6. Ford.com. There is a link somewhere under the 2015 Ford Edge to order a brochure.
  7. Any funny characters in the title? Is it DRM protected? Are the bitrates the same?
  8. They accumulate until you hit the limit I think. You have to erase the old ones. I assume your dealer just gave you the first code they saw and didn't check for the other one. There is no "back door" code.
  9. BAMR = Big Ass Moon Roof. It's an engineering term.
  10. Sorry - so many people think that dealers don't deserve a single dollar of profit and it ticks me off. Of course they would pitch a fit if you asked them to work for free.
  11. Nope. Not in the states at least. The battery is part of the b2b warranty and carries no proration during the warranty period. I've seen them replaced for free at 35.5 months.
  12. It's not ridiculous - it's the same as every other mfr. The battery is part of the bumper to bumper warranty which on your car is 3 yrs 36K miles just like (almost) every other part. I think your dealer is being more difficult than necessary and you might want to find a different one that's more cooperative. Why aren't you taking the battery back to WalMart if you just bought it there? Didn't it come with a warranty?
  13. It's 3% but there are additional incentives based on volume and other factors. But honestly you shouldn't be concerned with it. Dealers deserve a little profit on a sale. Best Buy makes more profit on a $3K flat screen TV than a dealer does on a $30K vehicle.
  14. I think it was purchased used which is why the warranty situation isn't clear. You don't really need a motorcraft battery - just a good battery so they can rule that out when they troubleshoot. Unless you have an ESP the battery won't be covered so just get it replaced and take care of the door ajar problem either at the dealer or somewhere else or DIY. If you're still having problems then you can diagnose it from there. The door ajar problem might have run down the battery which is why you need to fix it first.
  15. I was about to say - only way to know for sure is to test it.
  16. Autobolog is quoting Edmunds that the Sport is only $500 more than the base SE. That's wrong. It's only $500 more than the 2014 Sport at $38K.
  17. The fuse is based on the wire size. Since your inverter could potentially pull 33 amps I'd use a 35 amp fuse and 8 gauge copper wire. 10 gauge wire would require a 30 amp fuse but the fuse would blow if you maxed out the inverter.
  18. Then I would guess it's either the format or the filenames/folders.
  19. Can we ask your wife/partner/significant other?
  20. Are they DRM copyright protected? You can't play those on a sd card or usb. Otherwise I would guess the filenames or metadata is bad. There used to be a sync my itunes utility that would fix those.
  21. No, I think you should be able to get it fixed when it dies the FIRST time. My point is that vehicles stall or slow down thousands of times every single day whether it's bad gas, running out of gas, pcm problems, fuel pumps, flat tires, etc. It doesn't stop suddenly or lose control - it just loses power until you restart it. I don't personally see it as any more dangerous than anything else that happens on a regular basis including aggressive driving, weaving, not paying attention, etc. If you feel otherwise that's fine.
  22. Probably a heat shield somewhere and not the engine itself. No concern unless it gets worse. Musty smell would either be a leak from the A/C condenser or moonroof drain clogged or mold in the A/C plumbing. Not the PTU. Do you notice it when using the A/C, the heater or both?
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