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Welcome to the forum, and we forgive you for not making yourself known earlier Remember, it may SEEM like a trans problem, but may actually be an engine problem such as worn out spark plugs, clogged fuel injectors, COPs, etc. I really hope the fluid is at least at the right level. You can certainly change the fluid (Mercon V: Motorcraft, Castrol or even major auto store brand; can do better with full synthetics if desired), just not flush it. Use the 3x drain & fill method to simulate a flush. Get trans warmed up. Park the Edge on level ground. Row through the gears with foot on brake to make sure fluid is forced to move in & out of the torque converter. Make sure to PARK it, then turn engine off. Raise on jackstands/lift as needed. Loosen trans pan drain bolt & drain fluid. Approx 5 quarts should come out. Hopefully no metal shards/minimum flakes. Close drain pan bolt. Fill the same amount as came out/5 quarts expected. Start engine, run for 5 minutes, row through the gears a few times to commingle old & new fluid. Drive briefly if you want, but not more than 5 minutes so you don't overheat the fluid. Repeat steps 2-9, then 2-8 for final drain & fill. Probably put in 15 new quarts in all. Fluid should now be a nice healthy pinkish color. And yes, you CAN do it yourself IF you are comfy working underneath a vehicle & are used to taking appropriate precautions. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2040-transmission-fluid-replace/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12917-2009-edge-sel-awd-transmission-plan/

This thread to "reset" the liftgate might be just what you need: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/3529-liftgate-ding-ding-ding/page-2 Might actually end up needing a sensor replaced or wiring patched or rust cleaned from contacts etc., but give this a go ... And seriously think about a new battery with a reset of the Battery Management System (if the Edge is so equipped) anyway. Batteries are tasked with a lot of work these days, and 3-4 year lifespans are ordinary.

An Aeroforce gauge should be an option for anyone looking for a nice addition and some "simple" displays. These are very accurate. If you get two, they might have a gauge pod to mount to the center speaker panel area for your application. If just one, many have mounted it to the top of the steering column, behind the wheel.

Nice upgrades, got it looking GOOD!

Being in Maine & those winters I am sure take a toll on anything under the car, especially the brakes. Heck, if there's a light layer of rust on them in the morning if humidity is even a little high, imagine what happens when it's snowpacked & salty out there! Check & clean everything: rotors, pads, calipers, slide pins, EBrake cables, brake hoses, etc. at least once a year after winter is over.

Welcome, & congrats on the '13 Sport! How about some pics of your ride to go along with the intro

Joy when all works well. Thanks for the update!!!

Congrats on an excellent find, and welcome to the community! Remember to keep an eye on the PTU and do frequent (every 30-40K miles) fluid changes on the PTU and RDU. They should last a long time if you do that. We will forgive you your Mazda chain of ownership Mazda is kinda kin to Ford ...

You did good by your rides!

The PTU is definitely a major area of contention where Ford quality is concerned. As previously stated, there should be a drain plug, and there should be a service interval on it and the RDU, for best service life. We can all cherrypick vehicles that last "forever" with no major repairs. People will quote you Mercedes D series that run for 1000000 miles with only 10 oil changes + cost of fuel. Is that representative of the entire population? No. I can quote you my dad's '97 Intrepid 3.3L, that is slowly falling apart at 140K (poor American quality as everyone knows), but has received regular maintenance. Not like new, but it has a heart of gold. Does that mean I would buy Dodge forever? No. Having a long warranty from KIA doesn't mean you will get a quality part in the long run, that's been a marketing tool for a long time, up to you whether you fall for it. Sometimes when you are on the bleeding edge of product introductions, you ARE taking a risk. If you bought a 2007 Edge new, no way to know what could happen at that time. As for bleeding BLUE, not quite. RED/WHITE/BLUE maybe, but not just BLUE Seriously, I was a GM fan (still was until the whole 2008 thing), still like the products, just not the reliability in the long term. On average, Ford has done the best for me, so I stick with Ford. But I would not do without an extended warranty for sure, it is a lifesaver these days, with all the electronics and non-DIY parts/service involved.

Seems like failsafe mode was triggered. A bit more detail about your Edge, please: AWD or FWD? Why did the transmission have to be replaced? New/Rebuilt/Used replacement? Did any lights saying SERVICE ADVANCETRAC or something similar come on? A wrench symbol? Did the PCM have any stored codes? Is the trans fluid level/condition OK? Very possible that, assuming all connections were hooked up properly when the trans was replaced, that one or more wheel speed sensors is faulty. Could be a rusty/dirty/broken ABS tone ring(s). Or the brakes at one (or more) corner(s) are sticking. Not uncommon for the rear brakes to stick, causing the brakes to work against the engine.

Yeah, multiple hits to the head = not good.

NICE!

Imagine how they might be in winter time!

The winters can indeed be quite bad in NY, and I have heard that the roads have improved in Rochester since I was there last, but then it was like driving from pothole to pothole! As far as remote start, I believe you are correct. The "definitive" thread is this one, I am sure you have already referred to it: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17035-adding-oem-remote-start-kits-parts-explained-detailed-2011/

Welcome, James, congrats on the '11 Cinnamon Edge! Nice looking Focuses (Focii???) as well! Quite a transition from AZ to NY, bet you don't miss the 50C heat

If the F150 2.7 EB is similar to the 3.5 EB offering, it will have upgraded internals (forged crank & connecting rods for example) & bigger turbos to support the power.

Interesting. Mastel Ford of NY seems to be well liked/rated: http://www.cars.com/dealers/155961/mastel-ford-lincoln/reviews/?sortBy=featured-most-recent&filterBy=service-results Whereabouts are they in PA?

Time to replace the fan assembly most likely: http://www.amazon.com/TYC-622040-Replacement-Radiator-Condenser/dp/B0041TNK44/ Notes: Components Included: Control Unit, Configuration: Radiator and Condenser Cooling Fan Assembly, Connector Quantity: 1, Connector Terminal Quantity: 3, Connector Type: male, Fan Blade Material: PA+GF, Fan Type: Dual, Package Contents: Radiator & Condenser Fan Assembly, Shroud Included: Yes, Shroud Material: PA+GF, w/o TOW Limited Lifetime for non-commercial use http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-621-392-Radiator-Fan-Assembly/dp/B0074DFTKM/ Notes: w/Air Conditioning, wo/Trailer Tow Package, 100% NEW, Fully Assembled for Ease of Installation Dorman limited lifetime warranty Tow package assemblies cost about $100 more.

TSB 14-0045 MUSTY OR ORGANIC ODOR FROM FRONT VENTS – AIR CONDITIONING (A/C) IS ACTIVATED – BUILT ON OR AFTER 4/6/2012 Publication Date: March 5, 2014 FORD: 2013 Edge LINCOLN: 2013 MKX ISSUE: Some 2013 Edge and MKX vehicles built on or after 4/6/2012 may exhibit a musty or organic odor coming from the front vents when A/C is activated. ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Replace the air conditioning evaporator housing assembly. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 412-01. PART NUMBER/PART NAME CT4Z-19B555-G Complete Asy, Production-Installed Type, Includes Evaporator Core, Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) And Evaporator Temperature Control Sensor, From: 4/3/2012 2013/ ; Humidity Sensor CT4Z-19B555-H Complete Asy, Production-Installed Type, Includes Evaporator Core, Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) And Evaporator Temperature Control Sensor, From: 4/2/2012 2013/ ; Humidity Sensor CT4Z-19B555-J Complete Asy, Production-Installed Type, Includes Evaporator Core, Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) And Evaporator Temperature Control Sensor, From: 4/3/2012 2013/ ; Less Humidity Sensor CT4Z-19B555-K Complete Asy, Production-Installed Type, Includes Evaporator Core, Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) And Evaporator Temperature Control Sensor, From: 4/2/2012 2013/ ; Less Humidity Sensor 9T4Z-19B555-G Complete Asy, Production-Installed Type, Includes Evaporator Core, Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV) And Evaporator Temperature Control Sensor, From: 4/3/2009 2013/ ; Less Humidity Sensor AT4Z-9H486-A Upper Intake Gasket W714878-S439 Steering Column Shaft-To-Steering Column Pinch Bolt OPERATION/DESCRIPTION/TIME 140045A 2013: Edge 2.0L GTDI: Replace The Evaporator Housing Assembly (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 4.4 Hrs. 140045A 2013: Edge 3.5L/3.7L: Replace The Evaporator Housing Assembly Includes Time To Remove And Install Upper Intake Manifold (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 5.3 Hrs. 140045A 2013: MKX 3.7L: Replace The Evaporator Housing Assembly Includes Time To Remove And Install Upper Intake Manifold (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 5.4 Hrs. WARRANTY STATUS Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage. Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. DEALER CODING/BASIC PART NO./CONDITION CODE 19B555 42

They are correct in their statement, but it should be a relative piece of cake once you get it started, and it's not.

GLWS!

My sympathies. Can't say I am surprised at your conclusion! I think I will get the OEMs from Ford next time though, just for grins.

Something like Goo Gone or 3M Adhesive Remover should work well. I'd say try acetone/nail polish remover first, if you wanted to, always using a test spot