macbwt

First the oil - Just change the oil at your next interval with a high mileage oil. I used Mobile One, but you can go with your preference. The smell may be from your PTU? Akirby/WWW? it can drip and cause the burning smell. You may wish to flush the PTU and reintroduce new oil/lube into the PTU. Wheel bearing noise will change at speeds and you can verify by driving down a straight highway then changing lanes. When you change lanes the pitch or noise will reduce or increase. If this occurs then you have wheel bearing worn. Then you have to determine which bearing, which can be hard to tell sometimes, but you can just by jacking it up and turning the wheels and or pulling pushing on them. No one wheel bearing will wear out first so I could not tell you which to check, but I tended to have more problems with the right rear wheel bearings. Left front - Few issues here. If you are on the original struts then change them. It is time. The bearing mount wears out and will provide an audible thump. Also if the wheel is bouncy the strut is worn and needs replacing (remember replace in pairs) You may also want to verify the left and right ball joints are in good shape along with the outer tie rod ends. I never had an issue with the inner tie rods or the outter ones but I replaced them when I replace the Lower Control arms Lower control arm replacement.

I have always believed you need to find a good shop then establish a relationship, which in turn works out to be better for you in the future. by the way the machine purges all remaining new fluid from the reseviour first before it purges the old fluid. the reseviour is funnel shaped at the bottom so the remaining fluid is really nothing. I believe they designed the machine with this exchange fear in mind. Also note the machine has set purging sequences so you do not forget to empty the old fluid.

Brian75zhp, what is the mileage on this edge? Was the other rotor also in the same condition?

You are correct I meant the 19minute mark. The video is about 25 minutes long. Looked at the wrong timing. I do know that the Orange Crush developed leaks at the axle seal very early, but the leak never became an issue. Just wet all the time. The rear main seal leak developed about the 160K mile mark and too a long time to develop into enough of a leak for me to start using High Mileage oil, which seemed to help slow it down. I will note that at no time did this effect the engine nor the oil consumption. Just a few drips but I never saw small puddles under the Orange Crush. DunePearlEdge - just watch it and note that your edge will keep running great the oil leak is not worth the money to repair. Run it through a good car wash with under carriage washing and you will be fine. Also whatever you do, do not increase the oil weight thinking it will slow the leak as this will cause other issues.

I would suggest milking the tires out for the rest of the summer/fall then replacing them with the Ecopias prior to the first snow fall. They are rate pretty good for snow also and with them being new your traction will be the best it could be since they would be new tires. Also check with your ford dealer as they have deals that they say will match and also discount any tire stores prices (at least in my area they have this) Give them a shot also to see if you can get a better deal.

Check out this video at about the 25 min mark. You will see that I had the same issue. Combination of leaks, but for sure it was a rear main seal and a axle seal leak. I just started putting high mileage oil into the engine to swell the seals and it alway ran great and hardly leaked enough to even worry about.

Caliper or rather brake pad was frozen and would not compress and when it broke free the rust was so built up it completely wore the pad like sand paper. Periodically check your pads and lubricate them each fall/early winter to ensure they are clean and move freely. How bad were the brackets? Where the pads seated into the clips? I went with the Autozone coated rotors to help prevent the rusting or at least slow it down. Real time testing results will be posted by me when I get them through a winter. Here is what I did.

Got my new dash cam in and the chips. I think I will do a video documentation on the installion of front and rear cams. Lullubelle will take the entire week off this coming week for a short vacation while I take care of a long list of Honey Do's that have built up.

On Tuesday the Ford Dealer will be playing Marco. Mykey. Marco Mykey until they can find it. Mykey that is.

I use recirculation or MAXAC. Pulling the air from outside (IMO) makes it harder for you to cool your car down. Plus you do not pull in the smells from outside like the skunk that was just run over, car exhaust etc. Not to mention if you are recirculating you are pulling already cool air through your condenser and just making sure it is cooled down rather than pulling hot humid air from outside.

5.5 quarts. 5w20 and depending on your budget conventional, synblend or fully synthetic. The key to it all is that you change the oil. I recommend 5k miles it did me well on my first Ford Edge right up until I traded it.

The video of my flush of the transmission the machine used purges the new remaining fluid first then purges the old fluid. Is there a residue of another type fluid? Yes but a very small amount. As with everything in when you add your fluid yourself do you thoroughly sanitize the funnel you are using? I used this flush on the Orange Crush and all I can say is there was never an affect from the residual other fluids. As far as filters I am not entirely sure people keep vehicles long enough to worry about a filter and if the filter needs changing there are most likely "other issues" and the transmission is soon to fail. Most likely because they never changed the fluid or towed with it. The 6F50 is a pretty tough transmission when I compare it to past vehicles. It all still comes down to just one thing. Maintence.

I think most the flushing transmission failure tales are related to transmissions that were nearly or already on the DOA list when they flushed it and thus it failed because all that garbage that was in the fluid was what was actually holding it together at that point.

I have been shopping for struts and shocks. Very limited number of choices available for the Ford Edge. KYB seems to be the only aftermarket supplier that makes their shocks for OEM and Aftermarket the same. Monroe is not an OEM manufacturer when compared to KYB which is an OEM supplier. Just thought I would toss that out there.

Also helps to get rid of the kids, they leave finger prints everywhere. LOL

Flush = chemical cleaning and sludge removal. Fluid change using machine to swap out fluid can be performed using cooling lines or through the fill tube. I would say my transmisison services are Fluid Changes. Flushing is more time consuming and expensive.

Funny you mention the Hancooks (cheapest noisest tire on the market, with the exception of cheap snow tires) I have Hancook dynapros and they are horrible the only reason I have them is this is what the previous owners put on it. They have poor traction, noisest sound rating and drive like dump truck tires. As soon as mine are worn out I am going with the tried and true Bridgestone Dueler H/L Ecopia 422's and I recommend these also. I have been through three sets and always a good grip in the rain and very quiet tires with a smooth ride. Your other isssue is of course the kelly tires and I am betting they are Crap also. You get what you pay for and noise is the exchange for low price. Change the tires to good tires and the noise will go away.

From some videos I have seen you are correct the Direct injections are showing more carbon build up and the PCV is also creating a bit of an issue due to oils concentrating on the closest cylinders. Time will tell as you said. Just a note: The reason I chose the 2011 is because they were non ecoboost engines.

Sometimes there are facts and wives tails. Not sure on the flushes, but I flushed the Orange Crush three times and it was running and shifting great at 285K miles when I traded it in.

All, A close friend has a 2011 Ford Edge SEL and her wipers stopped working in a rain storm. The dealer initially said the switch was bad and went to replace it then ended up replacing the wiper motor saying it had burned out. Everything is now working correctly. Question is this a one off or has anyone else experienced this type of failure on the wiper or switch?

Or just do this and enjoy a cup of coffee. 20 minutes and out the door. 150.00 dollars total cost. Figure in the fluid and time you would spend doing it yourself and even I sometimes find that letting the shops do the work is at times a better choice.

I will call it....Bad rear shocks check them for leakage and if the inner ribs are cupping this is a pretty good sign of worn shocks or bad shocks from leakage. Had this happen multiple times.

Yes it was Lullubelle and I am using the ADMIN key. I think I was being to critical on her in comparison to the Orange Crush. I am betting I do not have a TB issue, but will verify just to make sure. Plus might see if there are updates to the system that could help and have that done. I am sure there are updates since her manufacturing date.

Just a note on KYB Struts: Lifetime warranty Motorcraft: two year warranty Through Rockauto you can pay for the replacement under warranty and when they receive the worn part you get your payment returned to your credit card or you buy the new part outright and return the worn part for a replacement part. I usually buy the replacement and install it then mail the worn part back for a new part thus have a new part waiting to be installed. This works for me since I know I will be replacing this part in the future. Suspension parts ALWAYS wear out.

Motorcraft strut bearing mounts make you use the old buffer ring and have a 24 month unlimited mileage warranty. Cost 35 dollars more or less Moog provides the buffer ring and have an unlimited lifetime warranty. Cost 50 dollars (more or less) Based on your driving the motor craft may make economical sense. Based on my driving the Moog make more sense, plus a new buffer ring helps keep things quieter. You add on buying the ring to the Motorcraft part and you will see you pay the same amount but have a lesser warranty. Personally The change out of the struts will be dictated by the failure of the weakest part. I change the entire strut/bearing mount when one part fails. I usually get about 60-80k out of the aftermarket stuff. I am sure the struts in my current Edge are worn, but milking them until parts are purchased and the winter weather is near.