PaulSchott

Sounds like something to do with Freon or oil in the evaporator percolating and making noise. liquid Freon or an abundance of refrigerant oil shouldn't be accumulating in the evaporator. Just a guess by the description of the noise and that it only happens when the compressor is running. I might suggest to the dealership that the system should be evacuated and refilled to specifications and that the expansion valve be replaced. Keep us posted.

I just did my 2007 using Motorcraft Mercon V. Drained and refilled it 3 complete times. each time I added 5 quarts drove it street and highway for about 5 miles and drained it. when the last run was done it was at the middle of the hatch marks on the stick, It wasn't really warmed up yet so I'll check it after my 20 mile trip to work on Monday and add if necessary. I have been faithful at 50K miles between changes.

I haven't done this on the Edge because I haven't bothered to look for a fuse that would disable the ignition. I used to crank the car with the ignition disabled until the pressure would build up. I also would prefill the filter.

I have a 2007 that originally came with the yellow coolant. I did not know that Ford stopped recommending this coolant shortly afterwards. I had 110,000 miles when it let go. If I knew about the new recommendation i probably would still have the original water pump. I bought this car at 75000 miles and should have had all fluids changed. I just did the tranny and all normal stuff without thinking about coolant. MY Fault. I'm at 125,000 and after the winter I will do the tranny and the coolant plus all other fluids. (Oil is about 5000 miles on Mobile 1) I can go longer on the oil but I won't. Thank God it's FWD and i don't have a PTO (POS) to worry about. All things considered I think this is probably one of the best cars I have ever had. No rattles No squeaks Nothing weird or unexpected. The only two repairs that are notable are front axles DIY for under $120 both sides and the really painful water pump.@ $1700. I like the fact that i have no monthly payments.(Guess I can live without a digital dash. I do have a new Nav head with built in pandora and all kinds of good hands free stuff.)

I had a 98 ford contour with the 24v 6 cyl engine. The water pump was driven off of the rear side of the cam shaft. Great system. I changed the pump in less than 1/2 hour.

Wish I had on of those in High School. My friend Dennis did let me borrow his Red Rambler American Convertible with the seats that folded all the way down. Not very comfortable but very useful. :happy feet:

Just dumping the collected water in the evaporator pan may be enough. It you continue to get the smell when first starting the A/C you may need to go for the treatment. I would wait and see. If they blew the line through from the outside back inside you may have the same crap still in the housing. Like you said, wait until you start using the A/C again and keep looking for water dripping from the drain.

Mine was weeping and dripping on the ground. I had no oil contamination and caught it quickly. It was a $1700 at my trusted mechanic @ 115/hour Connecticut prices. Ford quoted me over $500 more. (I paid cash to save some money) I heard the timing chains making some noise before the disaster. I had about 110,000 miles on her. Mine still had the original yellow antifreeze in her. Have you ever had the coolant changed?

Sorry for your loss. I looked at the video before hearing he was drunk. First thing I said was He has to be "F" up. This looks like one of those small overlap crash tests by NHTSA. I'm all for the low mileage option. If the low mileage car was serviced it should be great. You have no way of knowing if either one was taken care of. There isn't that much important major service needed before 50,000 miles so just have the fluids changed and you should be good. At 100,000 miles you may have missed the trans,PTO and coolant flushes needed. There are all of the auxiliary systems like charging and tons of electronics that can get funky later in their life. Is the lower mileage car private sale or dealer? Definitely Car Fax is called for. Good luck Paul

Sounds like the fuel pump isn't holding pressure when sitting for a long time. You can see if this is the problem by turning the ignition on and not cranking the engine the next time it sits for a while. Try this a couple of times and then crank the engine and see if it fires up normally. I had a ford contour that did this and I needed to turn the ignition and wait for the pump to stop priming before starting it. This worked for over a year before the pump just crapped out.

Today I detailed just a small portion of my rear window but I got lazy when it came time to do the wheels.lol Northeast will finally warm up a little by Wednesday.

I just let my mother-in-law sit there.

I just got a new notice about the airbag recall. Ford is anticipating replacements available in the spring. My car is originally from Louisiana and then Arizona. It is now in Connecticut. I was told that Louisiana puts in in first place for the recall. I think that the lawyers told them to write this letter because they state that until the air bag is replaced you shouldn't have passengers in the front seat. and that this would deactivate the airbag. I think they are full of *%$#. They just want to tell you not to use the front seat and if you do it's your fault. If I ever see the replacement I'll be 100.

Hello, Lots of good info here.

my 2007 did it also. EBay for original ford parts. I have had some bad experience with aftermarket parts. I wonder what the dealership would charge for this very complicated job lol

You have to pull the intake for the injector so it's always the perfect time to do the plugs. If I had more than 50K on the plugs i would do them if the manifold was off. I would also switch the back coils to the front. IMHO It seems that the back three coils are subjected to much higher temps and their life can be extended by moving them to the front.

Could be time for a plug change. My 2007 3.5 was down to 17 mpg @ over 100 thou. New plugs and it averaging 19mpg. Also check tire pressure, it can have a dramatic effect. It's winter and your tires are probably on the low side.

I remember the first time I used Armer all on my 1973 Cadillac Coupe Deville seats. first left turn and I was in the passenger seat. Weeeee

I can't see both actuator doors breaking at the same time. Does your temp gauge get up to normal temp? I have manual A/C-heat so I'm not that familiar with the system. You may need to reboot the system. Another member may be able to help you with the system.

Make sure the mounting surface on the hub is clean before installing the rotor. Rust buildup and dirt can cause warping. Also clean the antirust coating off the rotor on the mating surface. Another long shot, Check the hubs for runout.

I still like you best. LOL

The water pump on the 3.5 is internal and driven off the cam chains. This is not an uncommon problem. The seal on the front of the pump goes and the coolant leaks into the oil. If you are getting a used engine it may pay to have the pump changed while it is out of the car. The problem usually happens if the coolant was not changed from the original yellow to the green. My water pump went at 120,000 miles for this reason. I was lucky and my leak came out of the weep hole and just leaked on the ground. I had it towed to my mechanic before it got into the oil. Total for the repair was around $1700.

Had mine done less than a year ago. You're saving yourself a bunch of cash doing it yourself. Good luck

My initial thought is that there is no Freon in your system or low Freon. The ticking sound could be your compressor cycling on and off normal for a low Freon situation. I would suggest bringing the car into a A/C specialist for an independent evaluation. You may have sustained damage to the condenser or a Freon line which should be covered by insurance. As far as the dealer saying that 70K miles is a lot and you should get a new car........ I need to watch my language, this is a public forum.