PaulSchott

The fluid is oil, yellow not red. It isn't from a valve cover and it isn't down the front of the engine. It appears in the filter area but if the filter was leaking it would be dripping on the filter. I was wondering if the filter attachment was an integral part of the block or if it is a casting that is "O" ringed in place. It would be nice to just tighten or replace a couple of "O" rings. By the way, there are no Novice questions. You would be surprised at how many obvious answers can be overlooked by us "experts" I made an appointment with my mechanic who I trust for Monday. I'm getting too old to be crawling around on cold cement. Just hope it doesn't hurt too much.

Just noticed a leak on my garage floor. This car has never marked it's territory before. I got under her the other day and the leak is in the oil filter area. The filter itself looks dry. I can't get a visual on the leak. The front of the engine looks dry and so is the oil pan. Anyone have an idea where to start looking. If I can't find it over the weekend I'm going to bring it into the shop. (SCAREY) Thanks Paul

Just remember you can't keep adding Freon to keep it going. Eventually you will lose enough oil to destroy the compressor. My neighbor had the same problem and asked me to look at it. I told him to go to a body shop and get an estimate. His insurance paid minus the deductible. If you have collision you should use it. It also fixed the dent he received at the same time.

I installed this Jensen head unit from Crutchfield Has a backup camera hookup and steering wheel controls available as options. I believe they have updated it since.

TANSTAAFL? Help me, If you do it'll let you know what my work password means DILLIGAF.

If you do this you can get Phillips bulbs in OEM packaging for less than $16 for a pair and free shipping on EBay.

I just did this conversion on my 2007 and found an improvement in lighting. Nothing dramatic but after driving to work in the wee small hours there is a definite improvement. 55 Watts to 65 Watts. I think the change doesn't cause a glare problem for oncoming cars because the edge has covers over the bulb to prevent it. (Nobody has flashed me yet.) The aiming of the lights has remained the same and the cutoff is the same. If you do this you need to modify the bulb with a dermal to modify the lugs and a clipper to remove one of the plastic tabs in the plug. There are plenty of write-ups on you tube.

I have a 2007 SEL FWD also. Great car and has been for a while. Mine is at 112,000 miles and I have only replaced the CV joints and plugs in the last 3 years. Be careful with the plugs, they can take out the coils and computer if you let them get much over 100,000 miles. They are a pain in the ass to change. I agree about the hard plastic. There was no power lift gate in 2007, it was available in 2008. Oh yeah, I just replaced the washer nozzles. Not a real repair because they were cheap on EBay and 5 minutes to install, kind of a maintenance item. Mileage is ok at 20 for what it is. I get about 19.5 on a good week going up and down hills and no highway going to work.

My leading edge strip is toast also. I removed the end parts that were disintegrating because they looked like junk. The center section isn't far behind. I do not notice any additional wind noise, but I think it keeps the dirt out of the jamb. If you find a way to make or replace the strip it would be great to post as this seems to be a common problem.

I'll just have to make sure my wife's mother sits up front.

I guess Takata is waiting for all the millions of cars to retire before they build replacement bags. If there was money to be made from the recall they would be pumping them out like crazy. My 2007 spent the first 8 years of its existence in Louisiana and Arizona and is first on the recall list. Oh boy, I guess I'll be about 90 by the time they get around to replacing it. I also worry about when the dealers in Connecticut will be getting the replacements. I assume the majority of them will be going to hot and humid climates.

Look at the bearings also, but it does sound like CV joint because of the noise while turning.

My 2007 is doing just about 19 mpg for my daily drive. All up and down hill. It was doing about 17 before I changed the plugs. Driving habits, road conditions and weather have a lot to do with mileage. I'm actually happy with the mileage compared to my 2002 Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter. It gets 14.5 under the same conditions. As for 35 MPG you can get it if you reset the readout while going downhill and shut the car off without ever touching the gas. The next time you check it you might see 75 MPG. This is an SUV, it is heavy and has a pretty strong 6 cyl. engine, it also has the aerodynamics of a brick.

It looks like the plastic part that holds the metal clip is broken off. If it's already back on I would just leave it alone. There are replacements available on EBay from about $50 to $100. They didn't paint them on my 2007 and if you didn't paint yours no one will notice if it is black.

Looking at the pics you took one hell of a hit. Glad your back in work. Cars are replaceable but we are not. My nephew was hit like that by a Dodge Durango but not nearly as hard. He was in a 98 Ford explorer without side bags. He was more messed up than you but has made a full recovery. His car also ended up in a patch of poison ivy that got all over my legs when his father and I went to the scene before the police and ambulance left. VERY SCAREY to think about to this day. Best of luck and a speedy recovery.

I would look at the rear drive shaft assembly, Check the fluid levels in the PTO and look for leaks

Try http://www.colorbondpaint.com They have exact match spray dyes that have worked for me in refinishing my dash armrest and steering wheel. The match is invisible and you won't be spending hundreds for a new panel or seat cover. The stuff holds up like the original finish. My steering wheel had to be wet sanded before it could be sprayed. some ware on this site are pictures of the finished work.

You can see if the problem is the pump by turning the ignition on and letting the pump run until it stops pumping and the system is pressurized. Turn the key to start after and if the car starts normally it is the pump check valve bleeding down.

There is one curved road on my way to work that is very narrow and makes a hard left then a right all at the top of a hill. I just make sure that I do the 15 mph called for around the left hand curve and stay on my side of the double line. (pray the other guy is doing the same. This is the only time that I noticed a blocked view. This is an extreme situation and not a normal road. The A pillars are there for strength in a roll over accident. Older cars had wrap around windshields and better visibility but were no structural help if you rolled it. It's a game of give and take.

I call my wife's Jeep "Your Car" and my Edge "My Car". The only car I ever had a name for was my 64.5 Mustang and it was called the "Rustang" for obvious reasons. It was also referred to as " Bondo, James Bondo" (With a British accent)

Sorry to see it. It's not too bad but I bet it's painful. I always dreaded the first parking lot ding on a new car. I know there is a deer running around Connecticut with a ford emblem embedded in his butt from my Contour.

I hope the Orange Crush didn't end up on a New York used car dealers lot with only 35,000 miles driven by an old lady only on Sundays. (My father-in-law owned a car lot in Bridgeport Ct back in the 70's, they regularly drove cars to the Bronx to have the odometers cranked.) Thanks for the videos.

If you're worried about aftermarket looking bad you really should get your stuff from Crutchfield. They cost al little more but their support and installation accessories are first rate. I got a Jensen unit from them to replace the original 6 disk player. Great Nav, great phone blue tooth, without voice activation. the Pandora option needs to hooked up with your I phone plug which I don't really like, but I have this head unit in the car for over a year and it has been flawless. I think they have updated it since I got it.

Did both of mine on a 2007. Bought them from Detroit Axle. Also had to remove the dust seals on both sides. These are really nice quality parts. The boots on my old ones were fine but the drivers side was getting noisy making left turns.

Did mine at 108,000 this is what they looked like. about 30 thou over and perfect tan color.