enigma-2

Power glitch. Next time try resetting the HVAC conot roller by putting the system into the diagnosis mode. To do this, press the climate control power button and the defrost button at the same time, hold for a few seconds, then press the power button one more time. If you see 88 88 in the diplay, they system resets and all is good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oJHgBb74P2STQ Haven't killed anyone in 48 years. Could send you a nasty, Trump-style tweet however.

Whats shape is the rest of the car in? How long do you intend to keep it? If it's in decent shape, and you intend to drive it for several more years, I would go with a certified rebuild. That way, it's been torn down, cleaned internally and everything's been done. Look at it as if you were buying a nice used car for transportation. Can you get one of $3,500? No. And the extra grand gives the confidence in knowing you're good for at least another 100-150k miles. (Who knows what's going on inside a used engine? Blocked oil journals? Corrosion? Oil pan full of gunk? Old oil in the wee places?).

The interior lights are powered by the smart junction box (fuse #25 in a 2009 mkx). If the interior lights are not working when you open the door, it's probaby related to fuse 25 or the battery saver relay in the smart junction box. (Look in your owner's manual for your correct fuse number. May be different than mine). If the interior lights do not come on when you turn on the switch on the interior lamps center (headlight switch), that switch, wiring or connections are bad. If the lights do not come on when you use the overhead console switch, it's in that switch, wiring or connections. If neither switch turns on the interior lights, check fuse no. 9 (again 2009 mkx).

In my 09 mkx, there's a clutch in the liftgate motor. Its my understanding when the clutch starts to slip (indicating the liftgate is blocked) the clutch slips triggering the liftgate "position sensor". (Internal to the liftgate drive motor assembly). They may have changed it on later years, but I doubt it.

Think of it as a slip clutch. As it closes if something is blocking it, the motor still runs but the tailgate stops. The clutch continues and starts to slip. When it reaches a certain travel distance, triggers the reversal. As you sensed to tailgate, you probably began to move out of its way and the tailgate movement was not impared sufficiently to trigger the sensor. (I don't think it's actually a slip clutch, but operates like one).

I use alcohol wipes and follow with 303 Aerospace Protectant to block ultraviolet light from deteriorating the rubber.

I remember reading in a different forum that there was a TSB for the 07-08 F150's for this problem. Same conditions. Fix was to reprogram the transmission. Don't remember if it affected the Edge's transmission or not. Follow up: looked it up, it's TSB 8-14-3. They reflashed the Power Control Module. Don't think theyre the same transmission though, but wouldn't hurt to talk directly to you dealers transmission specialist about doing this. A lot of problems develop because some damn computer needs a fresh reboot (relearn).

Per Ford: Vehicles recalled for driver-side inflators 2005-14 Ford Mustang 2005-06 Ford GT 2004-06 Ford Ranger built in North America Vehicles recalled for passenger-side inflators 2005-13 Ford Mustang 2004-11 Ford Ranger built in North America 2006-12 Ford Fusion 2007-10 Ford Edge 2006 Lincoln Zephyr 2007-12 Lincoln MKZ 2007-10 Lincoln MKX 2006-11 Mercury Milan

That was one of the first things I thought of also; but no other manufacturer is offering this, and the actual risk is VERY low. As far as my car, only the front, passenger airbag is affected. I'm assuming that none of the others (front driver or side airbags) are. Time will tell.

$75, thanks. Gives us a reference point for what to expect. Price for plugs was lower than what I paid. Was in last week for tire repair and The Works. Service rep came out and told me I was due to injector flush ($150 - heh, told him I use Techron plus) and new plugs ($315). Told him I had them changed at 90k service. Almost felt sorry for the little puppy face. His job to ratchet up the service bill and I killed his $500 upcharge bonus. But hey, for $315 I DO get a free car wash. (!!!) Curious. Parts were only $19? 6-plugs and gasket for $19. How do they do that? Was this a Ford garage or local?

If the fans run when direct connected, it falls to reason the it's either the aftermarket fan controller, the PCM or one of the sensor's feeding the PCM. (As you can tell, I'm no fan of Chinese aftermarket parts). Try hooking everything up and set the A/C to the MAX setting. The fans should immediately turn on. That will eliminate the fans, controller and PCM from the equation. If it doesn't and the fans run directly connected, the most likely suspect is the controller.

Battery chargers are wierd little creatures. They develop 12 volts on charge, but no amerge unless connected to an actual battery. So no amperage to speak of if it doesn't sense a battety load). On emergency start mode however, they make the full amperage available. Hense the fans run. As for connecting directly to the battery, if the fans run with a battery charger on start mode, no reason they shouldn't run directly connected to the battery. The only reason I can think of is the fan controller is wired differently or the battery connection was made backwards. (Try reversing the battery connections and see if the fans run). If the wiring is too small, the fans will run, drawing the current they need at 12 volts, but the wire will get hot. Once the wire heats up to the temperature rating of the insulation, (105° typically for automotive wire), the insulation will start to break down. But the fans WILL run.

Ah snap, plugged in 2009 Ford Edge and they switched title for tat. Anyway. This site does offer oem parts, abet at full price. https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2009/ford/edge/sel-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/body-cat/floor-scat

Good decision. Expect a bill of $400+, but necessary. If you remember, like to know what they charge for just the drain and refill.

I thought it was an incredibly display of goodwill. Imagine how many cars are involved × $45/day for months. They're paying out tens of millions of dollars to protect owners of their cars. See any other automotive manufacturer's doing this?

Received this letter in the mail today, advising the status of the airbag recall and offering to provide a rental car at no cost until the airbag can be replaced. Recall notice 06-04-18.pdf

Several places online: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/aap-aftermarket-recyc-passenger-side-rocker-panel-rrp1488/11755977-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11755977-P&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxtPYBRD6ARIsAKs1XJ5G5HVIsNwQWDfkRAU1NSGP-L616O38IlJVnuUXt_OWYoSq59WUbmsaAuoJEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#

Reading WWWPerfA_ZNOW's reference to the previous thread, several others who installed Dorman fans had problems with the connector. It appears that the connector needs to be forced on past tight, by pushing on o..n..e.. m..o..r..e.. millimeter, to get it to connect. I'd start there, by forcing the connector on tighter.

Something like this, mounts with tape or hardware? https://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Deflectors/Lund-Interceptor-Bug-Shield?set-vehicle=1&autoselect=1

Hi edgemaster, can you clarify exactly where this 2"gap is to occur? Do you mean you want a deflector to attach directly to the underside of the hood with screws and extend out 2" in front of the hood before turning up? (Like a cantilever)? Or a complete 2" separation from the hood itself? If so, where would it mount? .

You clean up the guide pins, lubricate them when reinstalling? (Thinking new disks may mask the problem and pins being corroded whichs resulting in binding).

Couple of thoughts. First, check the fuse that controls the fans. Looks like fuse #5 in the power distribution box (fuse box in engine compartment). Should be a 40 amp (with factory trailer tow) & 60 amp without. (Please verify that this is the right fuse). Second is, you installed an aftermarket fan assembly and these have been known to be wired differently then the Motorcraft unit. There are three wires running to the fan controller. (Note of caution, I'm drawing this from a Ford service manual for 2009. I *think* they are the same, however "trust but verify". (Strange, suddenly I'm picturing Ronald Reagan driving a Russian Troika.) Anyway: One is the incoming power (from fuse #5) and is a red w/black stripe connecting to terminal #1 which is marked "PWR". The second is the signal wire from the PCM. It is a red w/orange stripe connecting to terminal #4 and marked "VAR-SPD-IN". The third is the ground, which is solid black and connects to terminal #2. There are two additional wires which run to the fan(s), red and black. No terminals listed.

Lugs tightened unequally will cause this. Other than that, I'd suspect the calipers.