enigma-2

Ford cast a engine number in the block which describes the model and serial number. They also attach a tag to engine with this information. This link describes various locations, but may by old information. https://www.wikihow.com/Identify-a-Ford-Motor

I had same problem. Dealer changed the fans under extended warranty. He also checked a/c refrigerant levels and topped off. Said it was normal after fan failure. Fans needed to blow air across radiator at idle, not needed above 30 mpg as there's sufficient airflow.

Which engine do you have? BTW, did you check the registration document or the vin number plate?

You don't need Smartlink to run a Vehicle Health Report. All you need to do is register at SyncMyRide.com (where the report is sent to).

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I would agree with checking the cabin air filter. If it's ok, I would have the charge checked at the dealership. All systems leak very, very slowly. Some more than others. Could be just a little low. When the dealer changed my radiator fans, they also checked thd a/c charge. It was a little low, they charged and I could feel the difference. It was slight, but noticeable.

The OP noticed that the fan was speeding up and slowing down on heated seats. I was letting my car idle while the better half was in the store and became aware of the same thing, when on heated seats, the fan goes to high, then to low (or off - gets quiet) and repeats. Kind of a whoosh, quiet, whoosh, quiet, etc. On seat cool, it's on high 100% of the time.

I don't believe these work on plastic, ferrious and non-ferrious metals. The more expensive ones work with ultrasonic, not certain about the cheaper ones. The least expensive work with magnets (hence ferrious only). Edit: The $55 one I bought works on either magnetic induction (ferrous) or on eddy current's (non-ferrous). Has 1 um, mm or mil resolution and can be used over insulating coatings. The instructions state "Please allow 1-2cm error due to manual measurement". Believe something was lost in the translation, heh. Anyway, need to claibrate before each use, comes with a bare alumunim plate, bare steel plate and plastic calibrate film in 50um, 100um, 250um, 500um and 1000um thicknesses to use on plastic parts (over metal).

Just got back in the office and there was a flyer in the mail advertising a rebate on tires. If you buy 4 tires from your local Ford dealer before the end of the year, they will rebate you $70 for the tires and $60 if you out it on the Ford Credit Card. (You can allpy for the credit card right at the service desk and the really nice part, besides getting $60 back in a rebate is, they will charge you $0 interest for 9 months or a year (forget which). Anyway can pay off slowly at not interest + $60 back. Great deal. Tires limited to Goodyear, Dunlop, Michelin, Contenential, Pirelli, Hankook, Yokohama, Bridgestone and Firestone. Must show competitors ad before dealer will match price (I printed out Tirerack.com's pages andf they took ok.) So, $130 rebate, tires at competitors prices, 9 moths or a year to pay back with no interest and assuance the job will be done right the first time. Ford-Lincoln rabate.pdf

I'll let you know, bought the $55 one. (No, I don't know why I need one, I just do. Stop asking). (Rehearsing for when the wife asks ....

Was driving and heard the same noise you originally posted. It is the seat fan, on heat, cycling from low to high and back to low again. I thought mine was just on low when on heat but it definitely was ramping up to high and back to low.

I have one that goes off every do often. I keep driving and in about 10 mimutes it goes back off.

Was at Dealers today to pickup a seat belt extender so my grandson can buckel himself into his new "big-boy" car seat. The extenders are free from Ford (as many as you want), but, and did you know that the FRONT seatbelts are a different size than the REAR seatbelts??? (By this I mean the metal tab on the connector. The front is approx 3/4" wide and the rear is approx 1" wide). So I got a front and go back tomorrow to pick up a rear. Anyway, while I was there I learned that the dealers check over all new and used cars with a paint thickness meter to determine if the car has ever been damaged and repainted. (No, I didn't know about this either. And if you did, why didn't you share this with us sooner???) Anyway(2) If your measuring the side of a car at 10 mils and suddenly the next panel measures 20 mils, you know it was damaged and repainted. They told me they check every new car as well as they sometimes get damaged in transport and get repainted to cover it up. Especially if it comes from another dealer. Anyway(3) when I got home i checked on Amazon and they have dozens. Some run over a thousand. El'chepo starts for around $20. So I'll post 3 references and you can check them out for yourself. This looks like a nice one ($55) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779T34QB/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0779T34QB&pd_rd_wg=R9EhT&pd_rd_r=RJ9RR865AK3JJ056MY1S&pd_rd_w=VkQYV Little less expensive ($24) https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-Handheld-Thickness-Instrument-Switchable/dp/B06XC7XK76/ref=pd_sbs_469_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XC7XK76&pd_rd_r=TPZ9GER9D90NGXFB3WSY&pd_rd_w=wQciq&pd_rd_wg=6VYX1&psc=1&refRID=TPZ9GER9D90NGXFB3WSY&dpID=51nFu1EW83L&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=detail And even less expensive ($20) https://www.amazon.com/all-sun-EM2271-Digital-Painting-Thickness/dp/B0126JMCQM/ref=pd_cp_469_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0126JMCQM&pd_rd_r=TPZ9GER9D90NGXFB3WSY&pd_rd_w=3kzEy&pd_rd_wg=6VYX1&psc=1&refRID=TPZ9GER9D90NGXFB3WSY&dpID=413bjLg%252BjnL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail Think I need one of these (shhhh don't tell the wife).

Have an 09 MKX, never had any appreciable corrosion on battery terminals. It's my understanding that corrosion is cause by hydrogen gas being released from the sulfuric acid in the battery. The gas reacts with the outside air produces the corrosion. Damp air and salty air will accelerate the process. It's also advised to wipe the top of the battery from time to time as the thin film of acid water causes a leakage to develop between the two posts. (Why the developed the side terminal).

It's the short trips that kills a modern battery. Good to take it out every once-in-a-while and run. In a modern power-hungry car like the Edge or MKX, voltage is no real measure of a batterys state. You must measure it's CCA capacity. Most here (including myself) use a Solar BA-7 battery tester. (Thus model also tests the charging system). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GKn8AbQKFY2TS If your unable to take a long(er) trip every now and then (to get the battety back up to full charge), you can use a modern rejuvenatin charger to bring the battety back. This is what use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HPn8AbVV17XVB

What's the smell like? The stuff I'm using has an after-smell my wife hates. Also it's slippery afterwards.

I had a blue 98 Sable where the leather on the steering wheel wore through. I was able to locate a used one in excellent condition from a junk yard over in Ohio. Had the local dealer install it. (Know how had it is to find a steering wheel for a 1998, blue Mercury Sable?) Anyway, I used a steering wheel cover and hated it. Call it OCD but I knew it was there, hiding behind the cover, edging me on. Couldn't stand it, had to get it replaced. .

?good to hear. How did you determine the rotor was "egg shaped"?

Thought it only ran in heat mode was when you selected winshield defrost mode. Spoke too soon. You were right. It does run automatically in the auto position. Never really checked into this before. Also in defrost and floor/defrost modes.

Weather {{{finally}}} warmed up here in the Great Lakes. Opened the BAMR tonight and ssssssqqqqqeeeeeekkkkkk. Sprayed the tracks with lube and nice and quiet and smooth again. I use WD40's Dry Lube for this. Works good, only needs a spray 2x a year.

I would suggest the All Wheel Drive (AWD) forum.

As you didn't chage them, did you check the pads? Kind of sounds like a bad pad.

I'm currently running P245-50R20 Bridgestone Dueler H/L 422 Ecopia's on my MKX. Second set I've had on this car, and well satisfied. Quiet, smooth, long life, all-season. Little expensive at $250/tire but they are always offering a rebate. Couple that with Ford's rebate of $50 and it comes down nicely. One trick to watch out for, are the customer reviews. Most are from people who just bought the tires and have only a couple hundred miles on them. Tirerack.Com is loaded with these reviews. Amazon.com has reviews with several thousand miles on their tires. One particular tire I was certain I was going to replace my last set, had glowing reviews on tirerack.Com. But also checkled Amazon and seen where they have a very short life, as little as 10,000 miles in one cae. (I had also experienced the same thing with a set I had years ago, same brand). Great in the beginning, but hard, loud and rough after 20k miles. Haven't found this with Bridgestone. BTW, I looked up these tires on tirerack.Com, printed out the page, took it to local Ford dealer, he gave me his spiel on crappy tires for way too much, showed him the printout and mentioned I could have them shipped another local dealer, and he instantly matched to price. Got my Bridgestone rebate and my Ford rebate. Plus the job was done right the first time.

Sounds like one of your tires is out of balance.

Ummmm so what about "I'm horny"?