enigma-2

Cargo area, passenger side. Look for the molded grill. Dealer can access this information on the Ford network. Usually they are happy to things like this. As for having confidence in a dealer, remember that to be a certified Ford dealer the mechanics and technicians are required to be school certified. Those that work on transmissions are transmission certified. Tires, high school kid (in training). If you are dissatisfied, ask to speak to the owner. It's in his best interest to keep you happy. If you don't have confidence in the service shop, talk to the Service Manager and tell him your concerns. He reports to the owner (President of the dealership) and will usually go overboard to build your confidence in them. People having confidence in their business is critical to their future. We had a local Chevy dealer, Kirk Chevrolet, who was a crook. Service always doped cars to return for future problems. Word got around, it poisoned the community and they had to close. All service reps (not Service Mgr) will try to bump up the bill. It's a big part of their job. Understand this and you have the power to keep them at bay. On a completely unrelated note, as I can't sleep, when I was in tech school before the Marines, I used to work in servicing radios and TVs back in tbe mid 60's. I would fix the TV and the owner would come in and change a different tube or capacitor or resistol so the TV circuit would draw more current and fail again in six months. That was a common practice when people serviced radios and televisions. I had applied to RCA for a tech job. During the walk through, was briefed on the product lines. Several TVs had the same chassis. But the ones with the better wood cabinets would last longer. Three to four years longer. I asked why and was told that while it was the exact same chassis, they changed a single electrolyte capacitor which would weaken the entire chassis and shorten the life in the cheaper sets. Thats just business. Confidence is in knowing HOW the cheat.

Several ways to go about this, easiest is to tune to an FM station, lean into the cargo bay and stick your ear up to the sub-woofer grill. Hear sound? Yes. No sound? No. 2nd way is, next time your at your dealer, ask the service rep to print out a copy of the window sticker. Will tell you what was installed on your car "as built".

The recommended pressure is based on a estimated passenger and luggage loading. Perhaps lowering the pressure to 33 psi will provide sufficient safety while making for a softer ride. I would not go below ~5% however.

Could be unrelated but I thought I remembered reading about something similar on the site. See if this sounds simular to the problem your having. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/3586-2007-edge-unexplained-stalling/

Beginning to wonder about a faulty fuel pump or some other part in the fuel system starving the car for fuel. Codes?

Check for corrosion on each of the sensor connectors.

I loozed at my 09 mkx and there doesn't appear to be any adjustment. I would suggest spraying the lock mechanism with silicon spray. The locking mechanism may be binding, not allowing the lock to fully engage. Alternatively you can buy a new latch ($20 ebay) or complete glove box off ebay ($50 ebay, used).

I agree with Crutchfield being a good place to start. Good selection and good backup. Here's a link with 2009 Ford Edge selected. (Steering wheel control harness will run an extra $30). https://www.crutchfield.com/g_462550/Double-DIN-Car-Stereos.html?tp=72406#&avf=Y&nvpair=FFSize|Double-DIN&nvpair=AG_Radio_Features|FFHD_Radio_Tuner_Built@in&nvpair=AG_Radio_Features|YCRadio_Data_System&nvpair=AG_Steering_Wheel_Control_Compatible|FFAdapter_Required&nvpair=AG_Front_Panel|FFFace:Fixed

As the car was originally registered in a hot, humid climate, you should have had the air bag changed already. Ever ask the dealer why? One letter I got stated that these cars took priority and would get changed first.

Another possibly is a clogged catolitic converter.

IF your considering changing from one coolant type to another, you may be interested in the official Ford procedure for doing so. It's for 2007 through 2009 (my car) but should provide guidance as to Ford officially recommends as any mixing of different types will create a clogged cooling system. 2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf

Attached is a chart showing what models/years came with what coolants: coolants.pdf

I thought the highest risk areas were down south in hot, humid climates?How would Connecticut qualify?

When you turn the key on your hot-soaked car, does the instrument cluster gauges respond, the warning indicators light? (Ignition switch controls them as well).

Possibly one of the pads warn past min. Even though they were checked, pads can break and you may be metal-to-metal. I would have it checked at local dealer asap. Ford website should have coupon for free brake inspection.

Could just pull it out and send oem unit in for repair. Lot cheaper. https://navrepair.com/products/ford-lincoln-sony-sync-2-apim-with-myford-touch-8-screen-repair-service

My guess is they have already repaired those at the most risk and the rest of us are at low risk.

This is Lincoln's official stand on it: "Based on currently available technical data, the Lincoln Motor Company understands that the vehicles involved in the recent Takata recall are safe to drive while you are waiting for replacement parts. You should have the repair completed as soon as possible after you are notified that parts are available."

For $30/day you'll probably get a Mitsubishi Mirage or something similar.

Personally I would stay with Motorcraft as I really don't know if the others are better or not. But if you do change, even if it states it's compatible, I would still do a complete flush. Not all coolants play well together. Also if you change, consider labeling the coolant fill with the actual coolant being used. Memory fades over time.

$30 on Amazon (free prime shipping). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NUB132/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_loikBbVH9MHWB My 09 MKX came with gold from the factory. Dealer told me they needed to change it when they discovered it in an oil change. Told me Ford had discovered that it didn't have sufficient protection to prevent rusting or corrosion, and they needed to use a special flush to remove every part of the gold when going to green.

Your right about the Highlander, it's one ugly car.

After reading the Ford coverage again, I see that it was extended to five years from initial service date. So I imagine it did end in 2017. Even though you still have to pay, there is still one good point it makes. And that is to make certain you are running the latest update. As it's not currently working, I would imagine the dealer will need to do it. The Ford letter required the dealers to check the software (latest or reload) prior to going further.

Before you install the engine, I would recommend changing the water pump, guides, timing chain, spark plugs, PVC, and anything else you can think of prior to placing it in the engine bay. These engines are "good-used", not rebuilt. Who knows what parts are good now only to fail in 5k? And while it's out, how about the TSS & OSS in the transmission? Easy to get to now.

Hi Edward, this site has an article and pictures describing the spark plug seals and offer more info on their replacment. It's on a 2009 Ford Flex, but same 3.5L engine. https://www.fordflex.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7809