enigma-2

Bobistheoilguy.com ran a test on oil filters a few years ago. Mobile One scored highest (and one of the most expensive). But high up on the testing was Motorcraft. Best for price. Also AC Delco. K&N products are really questionable. In their air filters for example, they advertise (or use to advertise, don't follow them) that their filters allow more air through. And they do. It's because they were originally designed for racing and not street use (the filter material is designed for the larger stuff, not the micron stuff that can hurt the cylinder walls.) Their filters didn't score very high. -> You cannot do better than Motorcraft

Which model are you considering? I'm highly satisfied with my Escort MAX 360c. Great distance warning. All bands and shows the actual frequency so you know if cop or something else (like those signs that show you how fast you're travelling.) Also excellent rejection of false signals. Updates database via wireless connection right in car. (Uses home wireless connection via cell phone). Two separate antennas detail which direction the police are coming from, can track several radars at once and using software on my cell phone, can see where the cops are, within 30 miles. (When someone with a simular detector detects radar, the location is uploaded to the cloud and everyone else can see it.) Map also shows where known speed cameras are located and when you enter a known aircraft measuring area. (No radar used for either of these). Escort also a camera that attaches directly onto the side of this detector. (Only one power cord needed).

Remember, never mix gear oils. Always do a clean install.

Could always drop in a known good module. See if he'll take $25 (free shipping) https://www.ebay.com/itm/325544484109?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=zIkP6osCQNO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Should work on any Ford product since 2000 m.y.

Are you thinking of upgrading to an 8" screen? Navigation?

Repair your oem. https://www.automotivecircuitsolutions.com/products/09-ford-radio-repair

What grade of oil are you using? Any chance it's too thin?

Experienced Ford diagnostic technician, who works at a Ford service center, posted it.

To reset the battery monitor on any Ford product: 1. Make sure all windows & doors are closed. 2. Turn ignition switch to on (don't start car). Wait 10 seconds. 3. Flash highbeams 5 times using the "flash to pass" stalk on the side of the steering wheel (on/off, on/off, on/off, on/off, on/off). 4. Press brake pedal 3 times in 10 seconds. 5. The battery light on instrument cluster will flash indicating the BMS has been reset.

Well that certainly proves that the 3.5 water pump fails at a premature rate. My MKX has a little over 130,000 miles, I'd better start considering a preventive maintenance change out. LOL 330,000 miles. Incredible.

Should be fine. They fixed the 4 cyl 2.0 L for the 2019 m.y. (Moved the coolant crossover channel from the gasket mating surface to a hole drilled through block. This eliminated the problem of the head gasket not having enough distance between cyls 2&3).

When did you change the water pump?

Famous last words. lol

Yea, I seen that tire, but TireRack didn't recommend it. I'd look closely as it could turn out to be noisy or ride hard. (This tire has no competition).

I plugged the 175×55×18 into Tire Rack calculator and got this: WE'RE SORRY Looks like your answers narrowed the field down to zero tires available for your 2011 Ford Edge AWD.

One way to test the heater core is the run car to heat coolant, feel heater core inlet and output hose. If outlet only is cold, (1) core is plugged OR (2) core has air pocket. If plugged it can sometimes be cleared by pressue flusing by reversing the flow (connect pressure hose to outlet and reverse flush core). If car has EMTC (manual), the blend door module is connected to both doors on one shaft; and assume shaft is broken. If car has DATC (automatic), there are two blend door actuators and one is malfuncting. You can tell which actuator is failing by turning on heat. Cold side is failure. Causes of failure include broken interior gears, a burnt out motor or loss of output shaft gear position. You can try a blend door reset procedure and see if it resets. (1) remove fuse(s) for 60 seconds. Then start car, run a/c for a few minutes to allow HVAC to initialize and calibrate actuators. Takes about a minute. Switch car off and replace fuses. Start car again and wait 1/2 minute and verify mode door operation. ▪︎You can also try resetting the HVAC module. Press the heater control button and the AC button simultaneously and hold for a few seconds. Release both and then push the heater button again to run diagnostics. (The vents will blow air in a cycle for about 20 seconds during this phase). Read any codes shown on screen (top right or left corners). Press AUTO to reset to exit diagnostics. If you need to replace an actuator, there have been descriptions posted in this forum by members on how to do it. Use the search feature.

They're rated as one of Ebay's most reputable sellers. I wouldn't be concerned.

If you want to go from a 4" display to an 8" display, and sync 2 to sync 3, you're looking at changing a lot of components. While you could accumulate each part separately and figure out the software changes, it might be more advisable to buy a kit from a company that can provide all the parts and preprogram it for you. Here's one system, https://www.infotainment.com/products/2011-2018-ford-edge-4-to-8-sync-3-touchscreen-upgrade

Figured that you would get a response by now. Here's a kit that allows you to add a backup camera (plus more) to your 2014 edge with 4.3" screen. $400 https://www.emeraldintegrations.com/ford-edge-oem-rear-view-backup-camera-system.html

Starbucks chocolate carmal latte? Yummm.

I read that it has a class B rating on Gasoline and class A for certain oils and class C for other oils. For the class A oils, butter, castor oil, corn oil. For the class C oils, linseed & mineral oils. It seem exceptionally susceptible to cleaning solvents and certain acids. Petroleum oils were not listed as being tested. Class A for road salt. Class B - Resistant no indication that serviceability would be impaired. Variable resistance, depending on conditions of use. Class C - Unresistant, not recommended for service applications under any conditions. I'd say it was s good choice overall.

Do you live near to coast? Salt air can be corrosive.

Sounds like there's a trip to the service department in your future. Probably an easy fix. In the meantime, you always have the front sensors that start beeping at 28".

Being plastic, how does this board hold up to gasoline and oil?