enigma-2

Press Settings on your SYNC screen. Select General. Use the arrow to choose your language (English, Français, or Español). Pulse Configuración en la pantalla SYNC. Seleccione General. Utilice la flecha para elegir su idioma (inglés, francés o español).

Chuckle, novel way to fix the problem. ? How liking the 2021? Big difference, eh?

If you're getting hot on both sides & no cold, sounds like the blend door actuator failure. Could try a reset again, sometimes it takes several attempts. Pulling the battery cables for 15 minutes, will force the module to cycle the actuators full open and full close to reestablish the max open and close points. Failing either of these easy fixes, I'd suspect a failing actuator or linkage.

I would still be concerned as to how the junk got into the motor area to begin with. (Don't want this happening to the new motor). Do you have a cabin filter or a "filter screen"? (If just a screen, I pitch and install a filter in its place).

In my experience, all arms have groves. Needed to drive them through snow and wind. A new OEM arm will run around $41.25. Right side is P/N FT4Z17526B, left side P/N is FT4Z17527A.

Could be way off, but it looks like rail dust (iron dust = rust) to me. Do you live near a railroad? Best to remove. I'd take through a drive-through car wash and get the wash that under sprays under the car bottom. (Usually the cheapest will).

Try a radio reset. Hold power and forward buttons for 15 seconds.

I don't know if this will work or not as it's the setup for an F150, 3.5L, twin turbo EcoBoost V6. You can always try it and change back if not. Before changing, hit backup, give it a name "agm change 2021.12.21" and save. Just in case. Using FORScan, connect to your port, Engine to "on", do not start. Radio off. Goto: ACM (as built) Goto: 727-01-01 if it reads xxxx.D000.8032 (engine sound off), try changing to xxxx.D200.8032 May get a checksum error, write anyway and exit. Should turn on the engine sound so it sounds like a 5.0L, V8 Coyote. Again.

Wife's battery in her car started failing last month. Jumped and started but didn't charge enough while driving so I put it on the CTEK charger (I have the older 56-864 charger). Changed it to the AGM setting (charges standard flooded better in cold weather, voltage steps up to 14.7 volts) and left it go through its 8 cycles. Took nearly 14 hours. Battery came back -if- she drove a trip of a few miles or more. Start and stop left it without sufficient reserve. (Car is getting a new battery as I write this). Thought about popping it out, top it off with distilled water and add some Epsom salts, but ...... I'm lazy. So new battery. ?

Why did they replace the exhaust system with aftermarket on a new car? Be curious to see the muffler specs as to back pressure, catalytic converter restrictions, diameter, etc. Invalidates Ford warranty as well.

You might need to replace the blend door actuator on the side that is not working properly. Passenger side is easy, drivers side requires effort, although I've seen a YouTube video where the guy was able to change without tearing the dash out. One other thing to try first is a HVAC reset. Try this Doors closed, engine running, press the climate control power and defrost buttons simultaneously. Hold for a 10-15 seconds and release. Then press the climate control power button one more time. The HVAC "should" cycle the actuators and reestablish the ends calibration and reset the system. (You may have to do this a few times to get the stuck actuator to recycle and free up).

No resistor in a car with auto climate hvac system (uses a computer module, and when the resistor fails, it defaults to high). You indicated earlier that you have the auto climate system. I'm agreeing that your motor is bad. The junk kept it from turning, drawing excess current and overheating (these motors require continuous air over).

Rear Wiper Delete Kit, Rear Wiper Delete Kit Car Waterproof Block Off Plug Cap for Rear Tailgate Wiper Arm ABS Black 37mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H1XV59B/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_XKQF6JBJBF35SPZS0J7E Universal, 37mm & 46 mm plugs. ~$10

Looked up your 2014 and the ABS is not on a recall (affected 2011 cars). There are currently 3 recalls, 2 on the axles and one on fuel pump.

Don't think the the recall affected your car so you'll probably have to pay out of pocket. (I'd take whatever you have to pay as so hard to find. I'm seeing $200-$300). Here are so suggestions you can try (one of these Ford dealers may still have one in stock, let them know you will pay a premium to buy): Lakeland Ford https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/ABS-Control-Module/51620446/DT4Z2C219B.html Ebay (in stock, ready to ship) https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1630731422 FordPartsForSale https://www.fordpartsonsale.com/oem-parts/ford-control-module-dt4z2c219b?origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8ICOBhDmARIsAEGI6o16Mg3zeKxRGvfnR1yl4OJIyRhcGk4Mz2mSbjU-ABRl_wR_mBwHjDgaAi7gEALw_wcB SunSetFord https://parts.sunsetford.com/p/Ford__Edge/ABS-Control-Module-ABS-Control-Module-ExcAdaptive-Cruise-Control/51620446/DT4Z2C219B.html FriendlyFord https://www.oempartsforyourford.com/p/Ford__Edge/ABS-Control-Module-ABS-Control-Module-ExcAdaptive-Cruise-Control/51620446/DT4Z2C219B.html

Probably water related. But could be many things. As two doors are involved, probably grounding related. Try checking the wire bundle at both door jambs. These flex and it may be possible that one or more may have frayed causing a ground from water from the car wash.

Have you seen this response for the same problem? https://www.yourmechanic.com/question/the-transmission-keeps-dropping-out-of-overdrive-by-tim-p BTW, plugs should be changed around 90,000 miles. With the age of the car, I'd change the plugs.

Have you ever replaced your spark plugs?

This guy did it on an Explorer. Should be good guidance. But, I'd recommend keeping all the parts as it will probably hurt the resale. He used a wiper delete plug for a civic. NICECNC Rear Wiper Delete Kit Block Off Plug Cap Compatible with Civic Si 2002-2005,Civic Hatchback 1992-1995 Window butt Plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQKGD57/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MRY91CEPN17PEPA8TA86 Article: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/rear-wiper-delete.489685/

The first thing is to get the codes read. This will narrow down the problem to a specific area. Q. Have you ever changed the spark plugs. Historically problems in this area have been found to be related to plugs, coils or PCM failures. (Worn plugs can cause the other two).

I'm getting a new Ford battery in my wife's car next week. She drives a Sebring Convertible, where you actually have the disassemble part of the car and use "special tools" (according to Sam's Club who refused to install a new battery) to get to the battery. (Real pita, have to pull off a wheel and inner fender). Anyway, seen you are using a Motorcraft AGM battery. I might consider going this route as its such a pain to change. Care to share a ballpark as what it costs? Her car takes a group 75, 650 CCA.

What made you select paint over a vinyl wrap for the engine cover? Do you feel paint will hold up inasmuch as it's so flexible? What did you use for the chrome accents? (Car is excellent, by the way).

You send off to Blackstone?

Understood. Just never seen a battery at or near its 'as manufactured' rating. Thinking you may have an 850 CCA rated battery installed. But I'm only guessing.

Let's revolt. Let's "brake" the rules and force Papa Smerf Let's revolt. Let's "brake" the rules and force Papa Smerf to bow to our combined wills. ?