enigma-2

The procedure for the car to recognize the FOB for starting is programmed when you program the FOB. (There's a chip with a identifying hex number inside the FOB that's being read during programming. It's this chip that detected when you put you key in the ignition. No additional programming is needed for this to be linked to the car. If your switchblade is aftermarket, most likely it's Chinese and these have been know to be problematic. There's does appear to be a second programming procedure for the 2007. Could always try it and see if works or not. I've never tried this so can't say if it works or not. (Note, for either procedure, do NOT step on the brake before or during the procedure. If you do, start over). 1. Fasten seatbelt and close all doors2. Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN 4 times within 3 seconds.3. Turn the ignition OFF. The system will chime to confirm programming mode.4. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on first keyless remote. The system will chime once to confirm programming.5. Within 10 seconds, press and hold any button on second keyless remote. System will chime once to confirm programming.6. Turn ignition to RUN to exit programming mode. Opps, I lied. Third procedure (resembles a Chinese Fire Drill): INSERT a working transponder key into the ignition cylinder. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1). REMOVE the first transponder key and INSERT the second working transponder within ten (10) seconds. TURN the ignition cylinder to ON (Position 3) for five (5) seconds and then back to OFF (Position 1). REMOVE the second transponder key and INSERT the new unprogrammed transponder key within twenty (20) seconds and TURN to ON (Position 3) for six (6) seconds and TURN back to OFF (Position 1). The Theft Indicator light will respond by lighting up for three (3) seconds to indicate successful programming of the new transponder key. Test all remotes. Programming is complete. If these programming instructions helped save you time and money, please consider sharing our website with friends and family so they can do the same. If the remote portion of the remote head key DID NOT program with the above procedure, use Procedure #2 below to program the remote portion of the remote head key.

Believe what the OP was asking was, can he find a local, non-Ford garage to put in the Motorcraft Blend. Try calling your local garage, the one you normally use and tell them this is what you want. Most garages will put in whatever you ask for. Most will just change the oil (charge for labor) if you bring in your own oil, purchased elsewhere (my local Ford/Lincoln Garage has done this for me, using synthetic before they switched to blend).

One quick test you could try is by putting the a/c in the MAX position and see if the fans operate (by-passes the FCV command signal from the PCM). As you only need the fans when idling or at very slow speeds (not needed at speeds above 20 mph) you may be able to switch the fans just on when needed.

Eric Evarts at Consumer Reports spoke with their chief mechanic and shared some scenarios when synthetic is the better option: If you make lots of short trips, standard motor oil may never get warm enough to burn off moisture and impurities. That could hasten the breakdown of conventional oil. Also, if you live in a region with very cold winters or very hot summers, or if you use your vehicle for towing or hauling heavy material, synthetic oil won’t break down as quickly... Another good use for synthetic oil is as a salve for older engines prone to sludge buildup. This gunky residue can block oil passages and lead to a quick death of an engine. As VEGA stated, your local Ford garage uses a blend of conventional and synthetic oil. It combines the best of both worlds, but at a reasonable price. A good change interval is as stated in the 2009 maintenance manual, 5,000 miles or every six months. The 2009 3.5L is an excellent engine but it does have a couple of weak points. In the 2009, its important (critical actually), that the coolant be changed from gold coolsnt to green through a specific procedure. It was found that tbe gold failed to provide sufficient protection and caused the coolant system to clog. Its also one of the causes of water pump failure through bearing seal corrosion. I had this procedure on my 09, years ago. Its an extensive process of flushing and I think I paid around $150. Another critical service procedure that must be preformed at or below 90,000 miles is to have the spark plugs changed. (Even if the car is running well). Failure can (will) result in burned out coils and possibly the power control module. Believe I paid $350. Coil or PCM replacement will run hundreds, probably over a thousand at a Ford dealer. At around 150,000 miles it's a good idea to have the water pump changed as a preventative measure. These are internal to the engine, and WHEN it fails, will leak coolant into the oil and destroy the engine. I believe the cost will run in the neighborhood of $1,600. At the very least, monitor your oil for coolant contamination by checking the oil for a milkly appearance. If you see this, get to your dealer immediately.

I misunderstood what you were asking. See if this video can help you reset the factory code.

The factory code is burned into thr bcm (i think its the body control module). There are two methods to recover the code. In the first method, you will need both of your keys or IA fobs. Insert a key in the ignition and turn to on (not run). If equipped with a start/stop button, insert one of your IA keys into the backup slot inside the center consul. (The key should be facing the rear of the vehicle with the key ring up.) Press the start button (without stepping on the brake pedal) once. With either key method, wait at least 4 seconds and then turn off ignition. Take out key and insert 2nd key. Turn to "on" or press start (without stepping on brake). Wait until the factory code on displayed on the screen. --------- In the 2nd method, locate the smart junction box (fuse box). The code is located on a black and white sticker attached to the fuse box. May be on the inside of the cover. Its a 5-digit code followed by a letter. On your 2014 Edge, the fuse panel is located behind a cover panel on the left side of the drivers footwell. To remove the cover, slide the release lever to the right and pull the cover off.

There are several conditions where the system powers down, not just snow covering the radar emitter. There's a table in the OM that discusses all of the conditions when the system disengages.

I H.A.T.E. this new format. Can't do anything in it. (Using Android). Read the help screen and it doesn't reflect this forum, (Blue Oval), and completely different than the Androud layout. I cant fogure out whats new and have to log in every time i visit. If this is the future. I probably won't use this site anymore and drop my membership.

This is really a post to everyone, but thought I'd work it in as a reply to your post. When I was 62, I thought long and hard about retiring. But health insurance needs overruled it. At 65 I got Medicare, but 66 was full retirement age for Social Security. So at 66 I took SS and put my wife on my SS account so I got 100% and wife got 50%. When we turned 70, wife's SS had accrued an additional 30% so we put her on her own and now realize it was worth the wait. (Shame I didn't take mine at 66 and suspend, allowing mine to grow an additional 30% but we needed thd money due to the "great recession"). Point of all this is, think carefully about retiring at 62. I have so many friends who when out at 62 only to realize (too late) that they needed health insurance, that Social Security is only 80% (70% for those born 1960 or later) of what you get at full retirement age and was not enough to live on and went back to work. They gave up a good job to take a poor paying job they were not happy in. If your heath is good, tough it out. It "IS" worth it. Save as much as possible in your 401k and take the time to invest in only the best funds. If you don't know whats best, pick your S&P 500 Index Fund and go 100% in it. If you have never read the book "The Richest Man in Babylon", do so. It's the story about a group of friends in ancient Babylon wbo were tired of being broke all the time and went to see their old friend who was the richest man in all of Babylon. What they could not figure out was, he started out just as poor as they did. The stories tell the story of how everyone can become rich. It's a series of stories written in the 30's by an insurance agent and widely regarded as a classic. And, unlike "Think and Grow Rich", it's an extremely easy read. And if you do retire at 62, enjoy your travels. We've grown sick of air travel, even though we upgrade. But we are still travelling and its great. (Expensive too!)

BTW, are you using the correct procedure for an 2007? The press and hold fuction was correct for the 2009 (and possiblity the 2008 as well, I would have to check). Just to be certain, this is the correct procedure for an 2007. 1. Position the seat and mirrors to the desired position. 2. Press the SET control on the drivers door panel. 3. Within 5 five seconds, press the lock or unlock control on the Integrated keyhead Transmitter (FOB) and then press the 1 or 2 control on the drivers door panel which you would like to associate with the seat and Driver 1 or Driver 2 positions. 4. Repeat this procedure for the second Integrated Keyhead Transmitter if desired.

Seems to me that if the mirrors adjust using the mirror switch, they're still good. Q. Does the seat adjust when using the recall feature? Does the recall feature work if using the remote transmitter?

Also change to PTU fluid at 30k intervals. (Part of the gen 1 maintenance manual).

Check with a local transmission shop. Make certain they use OEM lube (even if you have to supply).

1/4 mile, high-speed run on city streets? Around here we call that a Starbucks run near closing time.

Congratulate me. I retired last Friday. Can't get used to sitting around watching tv. Been saving hard since mid 90's when 401k programs first came out, so well off finanically, but hard to get used to the boredom. Thinking of taking up amateur bartending - ha.

Dealer used the same extractor as they use for rear axle. Big honker of a machine. Has to roll around on casters.

() First things to check. Plugs, need to be changed at 90k. Radiator coolant. Change. If AWD, change PTU fluid. Change transmission fluid. () Things to consider later on Change ALL other fluids, esp brake fluid. Battery. Sync updates from Ford website.

Check for a local transmission shop. They have the equipment and are usually contentious. I had to talk directly to the technician at my local Ford dealer. Service reps are sales reps, NOT technicians. Tech came out, i told him what I wanted and he sure, no problem. He through out 1/2 hour and a can of lubericant (even though it only used a few ounces). $80 total. Tell them they can use the same pump they use to service the rear axles. (Also mention that Ford has a service procedure based on towing and driving through deep water.)

This is the procedure for a 2009 Edge, but I think it hasn't changed since 08. Item Part Number Description 1 10300 Generator 2 Generator electrical connector (part of 14B060) 3 Generator B+ terminal (part of 14B060) 4 W711953 Generator B+ terminal nut 5 W709986 Generator bolt 6 W712609 Generator stud 7 W520414 Generator nut 8 8620 Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) belt 9 10329 Radial arm adapter 10 Radial arm adapter nut (part of 10329) 11 Radial arm adapter cap (part of 10329) Removal and Installation NOTE: The radial arm adapter is a serviceable item. Do not replace the generator if the radial arm adapter is the only concern. Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 . Remove the cooling fan. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner counterclockwise and position the accessory drive belt aside. Position the generator B+ terminal protective cover aside, remove the nut and position the generator B+ terminal aside. To install, tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in). Disconnect the generator electrical connector. Detach the pin-type retainer and wiring harness. Remove the generator stud nut. To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). Remove the generator stud. To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). Remove the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 . Loosen the generator bolt and remove the generator. To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure. Be a good time to check the tensioner and change the belt as well.

Real nice. Was this a place online?

I read in a different forum where this one was recommended. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LCEWR4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B7J3BbT67HMSV

Both complaints, one thing to try, first pull the fuse then pull and clean the connections. Aplly dielectric grease on all pins and reassemble. (Temperature sensitive connections are almost always do to a slightly corroded connector.)

What Ford considers normal is detailed on page 91 of the owner's manual.

Local told me lifetime was duration of original warranty.