enigma-2

I'm curious, why did you demand a rental car from the dealer? Do you have an extended warranty that covers extended repairs?

What's your mpg now?

Just asking, did you use Motorcraft spark plugs? One other area you could consider is you may have loosened or broken a vacume line when you changed the water pump or plugs, just enough to cause the car to malfunction at idle.

Doubt a third-party warranty will cover it as it hasent failed (just creates a poping sound).

Weak batteries can cause electrical problems like this. Back in the day you could count on a battery lasting 4 or 5 years. No so today. Once they have been fully discharged, they can be permanently weakened or destroyed (depending on the temperature). I would have it tested somewhere where they can tell you the CCA (cold cranking amps) remaining. I would also suspect it will fail. A weakened battery can cause all kinds of strange problems.

How old is your battery? The FORScan log indicates below normal voltage. I would do a CCA reading. Can't trust doing just a voltage reading like the dealers do. I use (as do others here) a Solar BA7 to watch mine. accurate. SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_suQSBbAH3CFDN

Did they change just the seals or the entire PTU?

Try spraying it with silicone spray first. Probably dirt causing it to bind creating the poping as it releases. (I use WD40 Dry Lube on mine).

I *think* akirby was talking about 2017+ models.

On my 09 MKX, they're attached with velcro strips.

"And the answer is, what size shoe was the engineer wearing who drove the train that delivered the load of dead batteries to the supplier"?

Everything is read matches the responses above. Here's something I pulled off an different site "Transmission ratio, tranny/engine cooling, brakes and charging systems are all the same with/without trailer tow package. There are no mechanical differences between the two except as follows: The hitch included with the trailer tow package is an entirely different rear-bumper assembly compared to those without - it is not simply an add-on hitch." Everything I've also read says that the sway control is installed at the factory and CANNOT be added by the dealer or aftermarket. Keep in mind that the capacity is limited to 1,500 lbs with factory or aftermarket and no trailer brakes, 2000 lbs with aftermarket and trailer brakes or 3,500 lbs with factory tow pkg and trailer brakes.

I've never read what the actual loudness of the OEM horn is, but the DOT requirement is 110 db at 10 ft. Aftermarket horns are usually 135 db but that's usually measured right at the horn opening. I did read an interesting article where Ford changed the actual sound of the horn depending where on the world the car is sold. https://www.wheels.ca/news/theres-a-reason-your-car-horn-sounds-wimpy/ Wikipedia states OEM horns are 107 to 109 db. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_horn As for high/low pitch, not certain what your looking for. Both horns come mounted on a steel bracket. In my experience dating back many years ago, the last time I replaced a horn, each was marked either "high" or "low" on the horn.

My 98 Sable started doing this when I backed out of the garage after sitting all night. Turned out to be one (or both) rear brakes hanging the releasing. Some part needed to be greased.

kiss. Go to dealer and say The Works. Done.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p068a

Sounds like a failed update. Either that or it was the wrong version (did your car come equipped with FACTORY navigation?).In any case it sounds like a trip to the dealer.

Hers what you can do with the old one after you remove it.

Sorry for the delay, been away. Can't clean the nozzle with a paperclip, must replace. Headliner is basically the ceiling inside the car, not exterior. I did an older post on how I replaced my front ones, click on link below. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23597-windshield-washer-nozzle/?fromsearch=1 I'm betting that you have broken connection on the hood nozzle(s) and that's why the rear is weak. Fix front first. Can get aftermarket nozzles on Amazon. PT Auto Warehouse WNZ-FO705-F - Windshield Washer Nozzle, Black - Front Left/Right, Set of 2 $13.20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VQG2MZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4xTOBb19KM1SS

Mine just trickled and upon close investigation found the one of the front ones was not working at all. Traced it down to a broken spray unit on the hood. The hoses make a sharp 90° bend going into the sprayers and the cheap plastic sprayer elbows break off. This meant that most all the washing fluid was squirting free from the broken hose and little pressure avaliable for the the other front, and hardly any for the back (more to overcome, higher elevation). Replaced both sprayers and all good. If both front are ok, you would need to pull the headliner to gain access to replace the hose. The most likely cause may be the rear nozzle is partly clogged and the hose is just fine. These nozzles just snap into the hole and you should be able to pry out to change. BUT I don't know how much slack the hose has to permit this.

I ran miNE down PAST when it said I was empty by 20 miles or so. (I stayed near gas stations I case I had to walk). I would not have got 50 like you say as the gauge was pegged. My guess is, it's only a reminder to monitor your gas when you get low. Nice feature when your travelling on an intrastate and gas station 's are 20-30 miles apart.

Sounds like artillery fungus. The fungus lives in wood mulch, (the kind you use in flower beds) and can explode up to 18 ft away when the cells fill with water. Very hard to remove. Treatment is to spray the mulch to kill the fungus. Removal is as KLinNBC stated.

Wife.

Just guessing based on your description, but you may be unplugging the power lead coming into the fuse box. My initial guess is the problem lies in the fuse panel itself. This part actually contains several transistorized circuits that can fail. That being said there is a way to troubleshoot the problem. Connect a VOM (set to amperes) between the positive battery lead and the battery (in series). (This is what you did to determine the leak current. Next disconnect each fuse, one-by-one, and check to see if the draw stops. (There is always some draw coming from the battery, but it's in millimeters.) If after testing all circuits, you do not find a specific circuit, it's the fuse panel (smart junction box) itself. Otherwise you will have isolated the circuit that's causing the draw. Post back your results, we are all curious.

You probably have a dash cam that requires 3 power leads. To get 5v from 12, could always solder in a voltage dropping resistor.