WingNut

Beading and sheeting is my tell tale sign. But of course not every product bead and sheets the same. And just because it isn't beading/sheeting, doesn't mean your paint isn't protected. Also if you throw a coat of wax on a car that hasn't been prepped, the wax won't adhere as well. Throw that same coat of wax on a car that was prepped 6 months ago and chances are it will last longer (Given both cars are in the same environment). Throw that same coat of wax on a car that was prepped the same day, chances are it will last longer than both above. There are a million factors when it comes to how long a product lasts. For me I just don't take the chance of getting to the point of no protection. So in the spring I'll do a good clean, quick clay, and apply a sealant (Opti-Seal). After a few days top that with a aqua-wax. I always wash with ONR (which has a version with a wax in it) which I feel leaves a layer of protection also. Then I'll hit it with a spray wax every month or so (Sometimes just using it as a drying aid). Come fall I'll clay, polish, seal, and use a wax like collinite that'll last through the winter when hand washes are sometimes hard to get to.

I know the question wasn't directed at me, but I can tell you I LOVE my weathertech mats. Won't own a car without a set. Have in set in my Mustang too. And last week my daughter threw up on my mats. Easy clean up. Well worth the investment.

I love my leased edge (2015. One year in to lease). I'm not sure if I'll buy it but I'll definitely want a vehicle similar to it at lease end. So it depends on my situation in 2 years. If my annual mileage is still as low as it is now, I may just jump in to another lease on a new vehicle. If my mileage is increasing, I will look at my buyout price (which of course I already know) and compare it to whatever else is out there. If I don't keep it and there is profit to be made on the buyout, I'll do that.

I use a step ladder and I also do a rinseless wash so it goes like this: 1. Start toward drivers rear and wash from middle to rear. 2. Move ladder closer to front. 3. Wash from middle to front and top half of drivers side windshield. 4. Get down and wash lower half of drivers side windshield. 5. Dry windshield. Dry front half of roof. 6. Move ladder back to 1st position. 7. Dry rear half of roof. 8. Repeat on passenger side.

Back in 2010 I received one two weeks after buying my Mustang. My dealer was able to get it submitted and I received a check a few weeks later.

Yup I have the same thing with my '15 Sport. Normal.

Then my guess is if they can put the sensors behind the fascia, an extra layer of 3M paint guard won't make a difference. Thanks for the info.

Why not just cut out around the sensors after installed?

"I had it mounted with zip ties and one broke off. So I took it off so I didn't lose the plate completely"

I'd throw it in the front windshield and keep the mount in reach in case you get pulled over about it. Then you just say: "I have the mount right here.. have an appointment for the dealer to install later this week". Or just keep the plate on the mount in your Edge and if you get pulled over tell them "Damn thing fell off...taking it to the dealer to have it fixed".

Chipster I like that setup. I was out yesterday on the canoes and I agree lifting these things up on the roof aren't always that easy. And even harder given I'm only 5'7" tall. I still manage to get it up there and usually lay a blanket / tarp on the roof from the rearest roof rack to the back. Just in case I need to rest it for a second to readjust. I've also looked in to a 'cheater bar' that inserts in to the tube of the roof rack...but so far haven't needed it. On another note I did notice the Q-Clip for the roof rack was causing a little marring on the paint. Most of it was black transfer from the vinyl pad that could easily be rubbed off...but in one spot I noticed it may have gone a little deeper than that. Without rubbing too hard with compound I got it to the size of 3-4 pin head size spots by one of the doors. Not a big deal. So to stop this from happening again I decided to add some 2" x 4" sections of protection film where the Q-clips mount to the door jamb. I was able to get a 6" x 24" roll of 3M clearbra material off amazon. Then cut to size. Pic is below of the finished product. The white tape is how I mark where the Q-clip has to line up so it is installed correctly every time I put the roof rack on.

For starters the only thing they can install after it leaves the factory, that is from Ford, is a remote start system that will have an additional key Fob to the one that you normally use. There is no way for them to install the OEM, from the factory remote start. So if it was the parts from Ford, you would have two key fobs right now. I would not find it acceptable for what they added. I would talk to the service manager and dealership manager about what you were told was going to be installed, and what was actually installed. Ask for them to take it out or give you a full refund. If still no help, start going up the chain to the Regional manager. Then I'd never...ever...deal with that dealer again. Find another one.

Good point. And I think that is why in the future using a proper inverter will work best without worrying about overheating. I still like the power point because I've used it for pumping up an air mattress and bike tires.

That thought crossed my mind too. So I switched to my laptop and it did the same thing as my daughter's.

So i guess in the future I'll use an invertor instead for jobs like that. Just save the power point for small jobs.

Same place you turn on/off the map lights.

This weekend while traveling my daughter was trying to use the rear power point with her laptop (Macbook Pro). At first it showed the charger as working. After a little while the charger wasn't drawing any power. I tried hitting the button up front to enable/disable the port. On the way home she plugged it in and it was working fine. Didn't have to hit the button up front either. Once we stopped for gas, it stopped working. I tried hitting the button, turning the ignition off, unplugging everything, starting the ignition, enabling the port, and plugging in the charger....still nothing. The manual states it can handle something like 115w and the Macbook charger only pulls 65w.

That is wayyyy steep. I just did a quick check on Amazon (that is where I got my parts). $311 total without locks. With Locks add another $50. That is based on the parts that Yakima said was part of their package. So I just parted it out on Amazon and saved money.

And Gap insurance is included in the lease. I asked Ford Credit about this a few months back.

The insurance company is not going to screw you like this. You owe Ford the remainder of the lease payments and residual value of vehicle (which we know is stated in the lease paperwork). If that means you owe for $30k and the value of the car is $38k, Ford would give you the balance since you "overpaid" the balance on your account.

How much to make me something similar with just velcro? Looks better than when I throw my tarp back there when camping/fishing.

I believe it was under $300 for me. As for wind noise, if you get the round bars....you will have noise. So you can wrap a bungee cord like I did or get one of these wind fairings:

Are you sure they tightened it all the way?

I just put the rack on my '15 when I need it. If I don't put my boat on it, I'll wrap a bungee cord around the front bar to help get rid of the 'humming' sound the bars can make.

Mine works. Not sure how many miles I had left though.