1004ron

I gave the same advice to my friend, but the only way Ford would consider any form of compensation was for him to commit to covering the bill of a strip-down and diagnostics, and he wasn't prepared to risk paying that and the price of a new engine. He got a new long block from Ford and an independent service shop installed it.

2012 ACM upgrade with 2019? - Audio, Backup, Navigation & SYNC - Ford Edge Forum

Companies like 4DTech and infotainment sell kits at around $2300 for the NAV option. I have just upgraded my wife's Mustang from the 4" Sync to 8" Sync 3 and can give you the contact details of the person that sold me the complete kit - just send me a PM and I'll reply with his contact details.

I'm selling the parts I took out my wife's Mustang when I upgraded to Sync 3 - not sure if any of the parts would work on the Edge. I bought my kit from a guy that sells only Ford parts and his own custom made adapter harness - much cheaper than 4DTech and Infotainment - let me know if interested and I'll PM his contact. https://louisville.craigslist.org/pts/d/louisville-ford-mustang-sync-control/7382237598.html

Today I did the second RDU oil change and this time I extracted more of the old oil than the previous time. I attached a section of flexible silicone tubing to my oil extractors tubing with about 12" of coat hanger wire inside the tube, so that I could form a shepherds hook. The look of the oil each time I've changed it, I'd say you can safely follow the owners manual, and forget about changing the RDU oil.

Your browser should be able to open the PDF, or download it and open with Adobe or other app. 3.5L sparkplug change on a 2007 MKX.pdf

I've got 71K miles on mine with oil changes every 5K miles, with all but one of those done by me. I don't have any issue with the original drain plug, but if I decide to get a different style it would be this Dorman.

Typical for you, and yes the turbo's would also be typical for you. I get 21 to 22 mpg with 60% interstate (70 - 80 mph) and 40% country roads (50 - 60 mph) and reading the forum I'd say my experience is typical of most 2.7L owners.

Is there a "DIY" here?

The bulb I bought doesn't seem to be available anymore - the below appear identical. You can search for H15 and chose a brand you like. https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Bulbs-White-Daytime-Lights/dp/B088RLPVDB/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=LED+H15+bulb&qid=1631225558&sr=8-4

No, he wants to do what I've done, and what's in the links I posted above, replace the halogen DRL's with LED's - not touching the HID's. Not sure if he found the links useful.

your English is just fine, and actually pretty good considering its not your first language. Yes, I meant leak-down test. Diesel Smoke tells YOU a Story... - Cost Effective Maintenance

A code can be stored without the CEL being on - that was the case on my Sport. I had a hesitation a few times after filling up, and my OBDII device showed no codes, then later I bought an OBDLink MX+ and with that you get free Ford specific downloads, and it showed an evap code, so I'd suggest that you take it to Autozone and see if they can find a code, or consider a new OBDII scanner. Amazon.com: OBDLink MX+ OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner for iPhone, Android, and Windows : Automotive Enhanced OEM support for Ford, GM, Mazda, Nissan/Infinity, Toyota/Lexus/Scion, Honda, Hyundai, Kia

How was that determined?

Have you decided to live with it, or still planning on getting rid of it? - used car prices are really good now, so you might want to consider your move now.

That's only half correct - yes the fluid will go down just a little as the brake pads wear, but that will be no where near the low level warning. There was a few posts here a while back about dealerships not knowing the correct bleed procedure of the ABS unit.

Yes, it could be injectors, but could also be poor compression - best get a compression and lead-down test done and have the injectors tested by a professional service facility. What's the mileage? What's the service history?

Does it look normal to you?

The source of the leak could be any one of the many brake components (calipers, master cylinder, ABS unit, ........), and without an inspection there's no way of knowing.

None of those are auto electrical specialists - mechanics usually only have a very basic knowledge of electrics. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrical+service+Norfolk+Virginia&ei=DkgqYc6kKLmJwbkPy6StmAE&oq=auto+electrical+service+Norfolk+Virginia&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyCAghEBYQHRAeOgoIABBHELADEMkDOgcIABBHELADOgsIABDkAhCwAxCLAzoGCAAQFhAeSgUIPBIBMUoECEEYAVCMyQNYh80EYNbYBGgBcAB4AIABuAGIAZAIkgEDNi40mAEAoAECoAEByAELuAECwAEB&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwjO44bQ9tPyAhW5RDABHUtSCxMQ4dUDCA4&uact=5

I wouldn't use them again. The MAF is not typically the cause of those codes - an intake manifold vacuum leak is more likely. It would be better to take it to a reputable dealership or independent shop to get it diagnosed - you could throw parts at it and get lucky, but that normally costs more in the end.

I've never used any such product and have no such issues.

Not a long term fix, and unlikely it will be effective for this type of head gasket issue, but you've got nothing to lose. A friend of mine has just installed a new engine with nothing offered from Ford - they said that he'd need to pay for a strip-down and diagnostics and only then would they decided if they would extend any "good will".

What made you think that it needed the MAF replaced?