1004ron

My 2017 Sport has the PTU temp sensor.

That's not what forums like this are about. Openly exchange ideas without personal attacks, but also being open to having your ideas challenged. "speaking the truth" - its not a truth issue - you expressed/presented an opinion, not a "truth".

I would advise contacting Ford Canada yourself, and find a reputable independent service place or another dealership for future work.

I would not accept tap water being mixed with the coolant in my vehicle and there's good reason why Ford's product label specifies distilled water. The fact that the water they're using might be quite soft doesn't cut it with me - the detrimental impact will only be seen after a long period of service. Reject it if they don't follow Ford's directions which are clear on the product labels and that PDF.

Here's another thread on that, with the Ford PDF on the change.

I won't get into any sort of competition regarding our qualifications, but need to point out that you suggested that the Ford qualified techs or engineers erred with regards the PTU lifetime fill. Appreciate that you had good intensions presenting an alternate filter, but from my side I'd like to caution my fellow members that there's no evidence or engineering support confirming that its a safe alternative.

Not just a recommendation, its a specification. I haven't seen a reliable source for the technical specifications for each of the two filters and without that it would be an experiment in the dark, and the same thing goes with experimentation using alternate oil grades. Not something I would promote our members try especially if still under warranty.

With it being a 2012 its obviously no longer under warranty and any repairs/upgrades will be paid out of your pocket - if it was under warranty I'd be more inclined to allow the Dealership to have at it seeing as it would be coming out of their pockets, including any failed experiments. To me it sounds like they're treating the symptoms and not the cause - if it was me, I'd take it to another Dealership. "also my fan has been redirected to work directly once I start my my engine" - that stinks of "shade tree mechanic"

@handfiler hit the nail on the head. Good to hear that you got it sorted and shame on Team RXP.

Yes, I don't like the idea of using the 18" emergency spare, and taking another look at it this evening I decided that I'm going to keep one of those Puncture Plug kits, and a small 12v compressor that I already have, in the ample space in the area where the existing spare is kept. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR5FX8M/?coliid=I28AFU02Y7FK60&colid=7FQZRUTL8DOG&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

There I was all these years assuming that I had a 21" spare wheel in the trunk, and as others have pointed out its an 18". The OD is significantly smaller than the 21" wheels, so if I was to use it I'll limit the speed and distance to avoid damage to the differential.

For the button that you want to disable, you could cut the printed circuit board track and if it doesn't work out good just join it with solder.

Now you've got me doubting myself and will need to confirm and take a photo when I get home. It's been many months since I checked the pressure on it and found it way under inflated. Mine is the same as the one seen in the below thread - I'll confirm actual size later today.

My 2017 Sport has a 21" emergency spare and my front rotors are 345mm. What's behind the suggestion to go with an 18"?

My wife's Mustang has a small compressor with liquid puncture sealant in place of a spare. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Fusion-Hybrid-Mobility-2016-2017/dp/B074XMN21M/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ford+tire+mobility+kit&qid=1609373851&sr=8-2

I'm not familiar with this procedure, but expect that it will need a battery charger/tender that has charging rate greater than the current draw with the ignition ON.

When you have a failed start, does the starter actually crank the engine or not?

What the OP has written isn't very clear to me, but the comment that the starter engages could suggest that the FOB is good?? Don't know if it cranks and doesn't fire or what the real status is.

@lildisco came up with a thread that has some useful suggestions to try.

Not doubting that you have a problem with your headlights, but I've not seen many reports here. I'm not sure if your 2017 Titanium has the HID's like my 2017 Sport, but can assure you that both my high and low beams are quite acceptable. Retrofit LED's aren't usually good in housings that weren't designed for that. If you don't have HID's you could try that, although quite pricey to upgrade.

You need to have it fully charged using something like a Battery Tender and then check the CCA, and bear in mind that the ambient will also effect it.

The forum search function doesn't always work too well, but give it a try.

Welcome to the forum. Please consider adding your location and vehicle model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

The Motorcraft SP-542 plug was superseded by SP-578, and its quite possible that the SP-537 was also superseded, but best contact your dealership or wait to see if someone else here can confirm. Welcome to the forum - pleas consider adding location and model/year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Back in 2016 the above from @macbwt was the best advice you could receive, and I notice that your didn't respond to that, other than clicking the "ha ha" button.