dabangsta

The cargo area on my Edge is already compromised with the angle of the rear window (a dog crate that fit in my 2017 Escape won't fit in my Edge for example), I guess if I didn't have tall square things to haul it would be okay, but might as well just have a sedan with pass through rear seats (like any non hybrid Fusion). I don't need ground clearance, I don't need to sit up higher (have to have a CUV to sit up higher, but they keep making them taller and taller, so now your "tall CUV" is like a sedan again).

So you have a Titanium or ST with the optional Adaptive Headlamps (the "high line")? If you have the setting and isn't grayed out, and enabled, do you see the adaptive headlights do the test sweep at startup? I find it odd that they aren't bi-led like the standard headlamps, I have never seen them on and lit up to see the inner bulb. I thought it was more of a turning bulb like the Escape, so didn't really care about finding a Titanium with them (my track record with stuff like this is poor, many Lincolns I have owned all the added stuff breaks, side mirrors tilting down in reverse, dimming side mirrors, seat moving forward when back is lifted to enter back seat in 2 door, etc).

Welcome! I hope the Edge continues to deliver! I have a couple Fusions in my stable, but my Edge was a replacement for an Escape. I am personally a sedan/coupe type person but my wife lives CUVs so I will continue with sedans until I can't, but the Edge is her daily driver and our vacation/travel car. I don't need AWD but wouldn't have minded it, as that is the only way to get the paddle shifters, Southwestern desert calls for AWD never (but my Fusion is AWD).

If for the front movable glass, I think there is one. At https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/body/glass-windows-and-related-components/sunroof-glass-seal-roof-panel-opening-seal-p-7t4z7851884a?pdp=y is it 51884 in the diagram, you can also look at related parts, or search for sun roof with your year make and model entered, or VIN for some parts makes it easier.

I don't think the cigarette lighter remains powered all the time after turning off the engine. I will have to try it again, but I use the same thing, it worked with my 2017 Escape and 2012 Fusion, but my 2015 Fusion and 2019 Edge the 12v power points are on for a limited time, 20-30 minutes I think. -EDIT- just checked with a USB power adapter with an LED, the front console outlet (on the passenger side of the console) in my 2019 turns off between 30 minutes and 45 minutes (I think closer to 30 minutes).

I haven't done many visual 3d printed things for my Edge. But I have modeled and printed things like tool holders, a case for a 12v>5v adapter for a dash cam, tums and ibuprofen holders, cable organizers, etc. Any one else do anything handy? I don't want to take the thread of the person that printed out an aftermarket mic holder. Part of the tool holders for under the cargo floor. flip lug socket holder, flashlight with batteries (not inserted so they don't ruin the flashlight), small tool holder for a flip bit screw driver, 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions), lug nut holder (3 spares): 12v>5v power converter for dash cam: I mostly print craft boxes for electronics that I fiddle with, replacement parts for broken stuff, pots and water catchers for plants, and some ornamental fun stuff.

Nice! I love making parts to fix things or custom mount them with my 3d printer. I just did 8 prototypes to end up with a final fix for a broken tab on my fridge. I try to get where no trimming is needed, but sometimes oversized and trimming is best. I do need to get an enclosed printer to do ABS and/or ASA, as PETG just doesn't cut it in the ambient temps my vehicle is subject to 100+ days of the year.

Glad you got it figured out. I didn't have my Edge with me to check, and I only use the fuel mileage view (unless in sport mode, then tach view) so I am not all that educated in the other views, I have cycled through them hoping for a more useful view like my 2017 Escape had, but it is a compromise with Fuel economy (my wife loves the digital speedo instead).

If you don't care about Android Auto or Apple CarPlay, then probably not worth all the additional changes required to update to SYNC 3. Yes, the screen needs changed to update to SYNC 3 (among quite a few other things). While I love SYNC 3 and Android Auto/Apple CarPlay because I like using the maps from the phone, the streaming music options, and messaging, I also have an older vehicle (2012 Fusion) that has SYNC 1 and I just use Bluetooth for audio on it and my phone in a holder in front of the radio controls, and it works pretty good. When looking for a vehicle and ended up with the 2019 Edge, SYNC 3 (or 4 if I could swing a newer car, I couldn't) was a requirement. I would have entertained a SYNC 2 equipped vehicle but I would have done the DIY gathering of parts and SYNC 3 update. Navigation with up to date maps, current crowd sourced details like traffic, accidents, and debris in the road, I always use navigation even if I have been there a million times, to get ETA, road conditions, need to detour, etc.

The Ford badged engine cover is no longer available, you can get the Lincoln one though. The oil fill and dipstick moved for 2019+ so the older ones are not a direct fit without hacking them up.

I have used the Airlift 1000 kit on a few cars and loved them. They have one for the 2013 Edge. For weight/leveling I install them with a single air valve and fill with a compressor (for a couple of my uses I put one in one side to help with launching at the drag strip). Normally I keep the minimum pressure in them as specified, and when I would go on vacation with trunk load of stuff add more air, I could even change it up when at where vacationing so it didn't have a crazy high rear and headlights pointed to the ground. https://www.airliftcompany.com/vehicles/ford/edge/2013/#l

I wonder if SYNC 3.4.23188 release is the one with the fix. The previous version was terrible, but only sorta had one of the issues listed (blank screen). OTA didn't show this update, but I was able to download it from Ford and install via USB drive, and it fixed the blank screen. I enabled auto updates, and I was getting them via OTA/WiFi updates, but I might disable that since it did get updated to that version automatically and started having issues.

If you live where corrosion is an issue, 10,000 miles (16,000km) early plug change might not be a bad thing, but it likely isn't going to get worse in a few months if it has had 15 years already. I live in the desert, so I don't deal with corrosion very much, so I don't know how bad it would get, probably not bad since the boot and coil cover the spark plug well. I find it hard to justify $400-900 for plugs, because it is pretty easy even on the 3.5, 6 plugs, the upper intake gasket set, and a couple hours of your time (the upper intake is not super easy to take off, but it is designed to be taken off). Easily less than $50 in parts even if you replace the boots as well. I wouldn't leave the same oil in the crank case for 3 years. I would follow the 7,500 miles or 6 months that your scheduled maintenance calls for. I am pretty sure the oil life monitor in my 2012 Fusion (with the same engine) triggered on time and not mileage this year, as I only put 7,000 miles on it this last year. This was my 105,000 mile maintenance pile for my 3.5 powered car (different transmission, different coolant, but AWD also), I think less than $150 and an afternoon because I did some cleaning up as well. Some things were over due, some were not yet due but got them out of the way, mostly the cooling system. I did the PTU a little after, and 3 oil changes, 2 air filters, and 1 cabin filter since.

1968 Bronco 1970 Bronco 1963 Falcon 1977 Granada 1982 Fairmont 1979 Zephyr 1989 Cougar 1997 Cougar 1997 Mark VIII 1982 F-150 2000 Grand Marquis 2017 Escape 2012 Fusion 2015 Fusion 2019 Edge

What year model and engine? Some years and regional packages have a temperature sender in the PTU and/or RDU. My 2012 Fusion has neither, I think it senses slip in the RDU and throws that message.

So the engine is turning over with the new battery, but it won't fire/start? The battery light will be on if the engine is not running and the alternator is not putting out more than 14v (a battery at rest, even at 13.1 volts if just charged and no loads at all will also mean the light is on).

I like that. I was worried about it traveling forward under the drivers feet, but I don't think it can. I carried this under the rear seat of my Escape, but no room in the Edge. I will see how mine fits, the case is a lot larger. I also need to check how it deals with the seat moving, as I am 6ft tall and my wife is 4ft10 so the seat goes nearly fully forward and 3/4 the way back a few times a week or day. That is where I am at now. But unless it is my wallet or my cell phone, I can't remember to grab it. For longer trips when it might be more handy to have around it could get packed along with everything else. I got one for my daughter and a tire inflator, and it is never in the vehicle when it is needed. Yeah, when someone says that that little box with those little alligator clips won't start my car, I gotta say it does great. Expedition with the 5.4 and a battery reading 7v? No problem! No battery? No problem! I still have one around the house with a lead/acid battery that works well for prototyping things and supplying auto voltage, but it won't boost a battery nearly as well as the new Lithium ones.

That image I posted is from the front. I want to make it somewhat easily accessible with a completely dead battery (as opposed to one that some electronics work but it won't start). I am assuming the rear door is openable if locked but no power simply by pulling the interior pull twice. I will probably test that with no battery connected. In my 2012 Fusion I can store it in the trunk since it has a key to unlatch it (and the trunk is 50 degrees cooler than the passenger space). I was wondering what others do, and I like your setup but I use those pockets and I think the cord would get torn up and bashed by stuff rolling around back there. I do check the charged state on mine and it can go at lest 6 months without dropping a full line (out of 5, so less than 20%), I get 5 decent attempts to start a vehicle with mine from fully charged.

Yes, a Lithium (Lithium Iron I think) battery jump pack to jump start a dead battery. I don't know that I feel spry enough to attempt to reach that far back from the back seat for something. I was thinking more along the lines of on top of or next to the TCU.

After finally needing to use my jump box for my own emergency purposes (on another vehicle that is more mechanical than electronic as far as access), I am trying to plan for the best place in my 2019 SEL to keep one. I want to store it under the cargo area, towards the front. I can open the drivers door with the emergency key, reach back and double pull the rear drivers side door to open it without power, right? Then use the manual lever to drop the seat back, then lift up the front of the cargo floor. I have a super amount of emergency related stuff around the spare already, I need to 3d print some more holders and sections so it doesn't rattle, squeak, or make the floor not sit level. The jump box would take up nearly all of the pitiful center console space, probably too large in a dimension to fit in the really small glove box along side the owners manual, and won't even fit in that useless cubby in front of the center console (yes, sour grapes, all the storage areas on this as so small, compared to even what it replaced, a 2017 Escape). Under the hood I am not sure I can find a decent place that doesn't get super hot, and I live where 90+ days a year it is 100+, and just enough rain that it would need to be protected from that splashing up.

Sorry for posting anything confusing. Starting in 2022 all Edge as AWD, FWD was deleted I have a 2019 SEL FWD and it has the smaller rotors (front and rear). All non ST AWD vehicles have the larger front rotors, the same size as the ST, but a different configuration (345mm diameter inverted hat rotor and larger piston calipers by 4mm each piston). I could see where different calipers on the ST/ST-Line even without the performance brake kit could require the larger diameter spare tire wheel.

Is the caliper that much larger on the ST (specifically the ST Performance Brake) setup? The AWD has the larger 345mm rotor, and the performance brake setup is same diameter rotor just a different configuration (at least for 2019, which is what I looked at). I want to do the AWD larger rotor upgrade on my 2019 FWD soon, I need to check the spare. I tried putting on a 1997 Mark VIII 16 inch spare on the rear and it didn't work, it hit the caliper (and it is so very tiny compared to the road wheel and tire, and the temp spare, I didn't expect to drive on it, just get it on the ground). I suspect I might need to update my 17 inch temp spare to an 18 if I do the brake upgrade.

Welcome! Other than keeping up with maintenance and tires and brakes, driving style is about the only thing that can be done to help with fuel mileage. Anticipating better, not going to a throttle position or RPM that puts you in boost and increased fuel is the best way, and easing off sooner and using less brakes also helps. I find I hurt my overall fuel mileage the most getting on the interstate, one spirited run to get on the interstate can drop my average for a tank 1 mpg, which means 16 less miles that tank. Obviously there are times that you have to be semi aggressive and I would never try to merge on some tight on ramps without getting up to speed quickly, but sometimes I will alter my route to get a better on ramp that doesn't require a quick entrance, for example. The city loop/drive cycle used to calculate the EPA rating does include quite a few 20 second idle periods, 18 times 0 to 25 to 30 mph and one up to 55, with pretty aggressive starts and stops, so how your driving environment differs from that could affect how close you get. it is 23 minutes with an average of 19.59 mph over 7.45 miles. I have played around with resetting the vehicles trip as it also gathers that information (time, distance, and average speed) to see why my wife doesn't get the 22 mpg average we should around town. This the dyno map that Ford uses to calculate the rating for the EPA: The Highway rating, if they don't include higher speed schedule, it never goes above 60 mph, and I usually cruise at 79-81 so only in optimal situations will I beat it (I can, just not very often).

Yes, my vehicles generally only have idle and WOT. But that is just the way I drive. The throttle plate really never fully closes, and the actuator controls the idle speed. I don't see how fiddling with the throttle stop would do anything but cause an uncontrollable too high idle or the throttle blade to close to tight that the electronic actuator cannot open it. I am not even real sure that is an actual mechanical stop, that bolt that goes into the actuator.

Throttle body does not have an idle adjustment! It is a stop, and if it is improperly adjusted, could result in the throttle blade either not able to open, or not able close. I wouldn't touch it. The idle is completely controlled by the PCM and metered air. It doesn't make sense that the idle would be lower for a tow package equipped vehicle. 9 mpg is really bad. The EPA rating for FWD is 16 city, 24 highway, 19 combined. AWD is 15 city, 22 highway, 18 combined. My AWD 3.5 powered vehicle gets driven hard and on surface streets only (1 mile at 65 mph) and I get within 1 mpg of the EPA rating for it (which is 18 mpg city, it is a 2012 Fusion Sport AWD). Every stop light is like a 1/4 drag (up to the speed limit of course), I don't coast very often, I manually hold lower gears so I frequently am cruising at 3500-4500 rpm. I might not do as many very short (3-4 miles) trips, most are 15-25 or more, I don't idle after startup waiting for the AC to cool it off, I just go.