dabangsta

Actually a lot to unpack in that one small post. It is possible to add the OEM remote start to your vehicle. It is documented here: It is a little more complex (well, expensive) for you with only one fob. I don't know the best way to proceed since you need 2 new fobs (with the remote start button and the different frequency) but you can't program them yourself since it requires 2 existing ones. Having 2 fobs makes getting the securcode keypad code easy.

The basic door shell should be the same. The lower moulding might be different depending on the year and other options like Elite, same with the upper belt moulding, and some of the interior bits and electronics. They seem the same for the generation that has Titanium (2015+). Each year might have a different paint color, interior panel color and trim treatment.

Welcome! Nice looking ride!

I would say that most places $150 and up is what the going rate is. Many simple diagnostics are over $200 just due to that 1 hour of labor. Add in a machine and something that takes wait time (but you have to time it right) and it is down right insane.

I think you might find that 65,000 miles is not that many for brakes, unless severe duty. Your 2020 had EPB (Electronic Park Brake), and you need to put the rear brakes into service mode (the park brake motor retracts) and put back into regular mode when done. It is easy to do and find how to do it. You might also find the rears wear faster. I would check them for even wear and how much pad is left at all corners before just replacing them because of miles. I think that slotted and drilled rotors on a street vehicle is for looks only. I think that the slotting wears pads faster than you might expect (that is what they are for), and drilled tend to crack. Having said that, I always put them on my vehicles that I drive, along with aggressive pads. I think I have the Powerstop Z23 kit on my 2012 Fusion (slotted and drilled rotors, and pads) and I go through pads every 20k miles...but I am very hard on brakes and cars in general (but still had 3-4mm pads left on my 2017 Escape at 96,000 miles). I wouldn't put them on my daily driver that gets 15-20k miles a year (my 2019 Edge SEL).

Welcome! There are some great resources on this board, both in already posted questions and answers, tech articles for fixes, modifications, and issues, and if you post a question with enough details (year, trim level, engine, what is happening, what you have tried so far, etc) then you will have the best chance and getting relavent information. If you are going to be active, it is best to post your vehicle specs to a signature (the details under your user name, if filled out, do not show up in your posts unfortunately).

So that image is not of your vehicle? SEL has DATC and available MyFordTouch, and Limited/Sport has Sony with DATC. Most levels of controls for 2011 are soft touch. There is single manual controls (but not with MyFordTouch), the dual controls, dual controls with Sony (touch sensitive) and dual auto controls with MyTemp (2 knobs in the center) which are also light touch buttons. I assume it is one with light touch buttons?

2015? What model? I don't think there are any fuses in the controls for the temperature controls or radio in those components. Yes, the FCIM is attached to the faceplate.

How about if you have fluid, and start it up and turn the wheel side to side in one place? I had a high pressure hose break on a vehicle and it sprayed the fluid out the front and no where near the vehicle. I only noticed it when I cranked the wheel to leave a parking spot with a wall in front of me, and I saw it stream there.

Was the USB hub from a Ford dealer, or from an online seller or very specifically from China? 3.0 supports CarPlay (2.2 does as well). While that popup error usually is related to the hub as it says, have you tried other USB cables? My 2017 Escape at first seemed to be very finicky about them (maybe it was the initial update from 1.1 to 2.2, then eventually to 3.0 made it better?), and maybe the cheap knock offs are better now, but most of them I try now work. I get very funky ones, like 6 inch long, 90 degree on both sides, so fit in the cubby and make the other drivers not try to use their phones while driving.

Of all the things that need to happen for it to stop, having the CEL on is not one of them. Usually it is the battery state of charge, it is either too low, or it thinks it is too low (like when I replaced my battery that was down to 220 CCA it didn't re-enable until I did the BMS reset steps). If it is still the same cylinder, do you have other indicators, like low on coolant, or steam out of the tailpipe? I don't know the lifespan of the low pressure pump in the tank, or the high pressure mechanical one, I assume that it is like any other in tank fuel pump, 178,000 might be early but it has been a good run.

Yes, it takes a specific coolant. It calls for Motorcraft Orange, however Motorcraft no longer produces it. So you can find many Dexcool aftermarket coolants that meet the Ford specification, WSS-M97B44-D2 (look for that on the bottle), or you can use the new Ford Yellow which is approved for use with that same specification. Remember that after the initial fill is drained and replaced, the coolant life is now 5 years, 100,000 what your owners manual says, probably 3 years, 50,000 miles, and not the 200,000 that the Yellow extended life is. They can be mixed or a flush done, either way. https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/quickref/FCSD Motorcraft Yellow Antifreeze-Coolant Backward Compatability.pdf

copy and paste data from wiki page to Google Sheets, and a simple formula to compute the percentage, yes. I don't think it works correctly when then are more Edge that Fusion, and I probably got it wrong as not a math wizard

The usual wiki check the reference footnotes apply. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Fusion_(Americas)#Yearly_U.S._sales https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Edge#Sales

When looking at the part in the online Ford Parts page, it says it is in the console, but it doesn't show an exploded view of it, it lumps it together with some other peripheral things like the antenna and keypad.

It is a wiki page, so you can follow the superscript number to the references at the bottom to find the source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Edge#Sales

I would call it an emissions, evap emissions issue, and not a fuel system issue. Is it a p1405 or a p1450? All codes (if a p1450 and p2196) and indicators (hard start after fuel fill, "farting" noise from tank/fuel fill) point to the purge valve. There are ways to test it to see if it is bad (always open) or possibly getting a bad signal to purge, and there are other components to the system, but usually only if the purge valve is stuck open will it do this, not other failures (canister being saturated, for example).

I don't know how the harmonic balancer would cause the cam and crank to be out of time and cause valve to piston contact and bend up the valves. That would mean the front of the crankshaft behind the timing chain gear separated from the rest. But with any catastrophic issue like that I guess a lot can happen, but I would think bent valves would be easy to detect before putting in a lot of work not to fix it or knowing that makes it not worth fixing.

Yeah, I guess it might help you see bambi as you hit it. If you are going at speed that high beams longer reach matter, then anything that happens in the fog light realm is either not gonna happen or you will see it happen. I guess it has been a long time since I have had to watch for critters, and when I did my cars had the old school glass "sealed beams", which have the same output as current interior lights, but I found it distracting on the interstate as well as dirt roads and 45 mph rural stretches of road. I do use my fog lights 99% of the time, on my older Fusion it fills some large dark areas while in the neighborhood, and on my 2019 Edge it smooths out the million of small shadows from the LED headlights. I only get flashed when I have a load in the back, fogs on or off.

Since this was posted to the wrong forum, and moved, what year, model, and engine do you have? It was assumed that it was the 3.5/3.7 due to the location of the water pump, but if you call it simple, it might not be a 3.5. Only clue so far is it has at least 4 cylinders, and is a 2012 or older. 2012 was the first year for the 2.0 GTDI engine.

I tried it (using Forscan to enable it) and in actual use I know the reason that it isn't that way from Ford. If you have your high beams on, you want to be looking further down range, with the fogs on you see too much close to you and that takes your focus. I disabled it pretty quickly, my environment that I drive in doesn't really necessitate both being on. I either want to see way down the road, or I want to see the sides illuminated, rarely both.

While it sorta depends on the year, any SP API rated oil should be good. I personally go with Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic and do 6000-7500 change interval. I might go for a full synthetic and go the full IOLM around 10k. SP/GF-6A have newer attributes for turbos, which I think is harder on oil than DI. I have had no issues with consumption and peeking in the cam cover looks nice and light golden, closer to raw aluminum. It took Ford a long time to update their sticker on the the bottles to show the oil was SP and not SN Plus. SP is for 2021 and newer vehicles, but basically supersedes SN.

As others have mentioned, you can lock your proximity key in the cabin using it, and unlock it without any other thing on your person, be it phone or fob. I haven't tried with an apple watch and the phone in the cabin, will have to try that. My Fitbit I created an Alexa routine for it so I don't have to say the PIN (unlock magnetic) but my watch doesn't always reconnect with my phone if it has been out of range of it for awhile or I accidentally try it not in range of my cell phone. I have started using it more so the code is muscle memory, or I can add the same one my old car had that I drove for 20 years and always used the keypad (no proximity key, no phone app).

I guess you are lucky in that cylinder 6 is the one on the drivers front of the 3.5. It seems like the injector on that cylinder got unplugged, or not plugged back in. The IAT is on the big air inlet tube from the air filter housing, check that it is plugged it also.

What would the goal be, or why would premium be wanted or needed? Longevity? I don't think that 87 octane has a negative effect on the engine, even though Ford thinks a little pinging is okay, most don't, but my usage and environment are most conducive to pinging, and it doesn't. Performance? Sure, there might be a little actual and perceived performance improvements, after all Ford did the HP ratings with it. Unless you are doing other mods and need premium, it probably won't make a huge difference. Fuel Mileage? Might be worth it. Currently for me it would have to be a 20% increase (3.20 for regular, 3.70 for premium, so an 18% increase in price). So I would have to go from 25 mpg to 30 mpg average. I Maybe saw 1 mpg and across an entire fuel tank a lot of different driving probably happened, and it wasn't a good comparison. Specific situations? Maybe. If I was to tow close to the limit, up mountains, in the 110 summer, and a tall trailer? I would. Performance and fuel mileage reasons, as my 2017 Escape towing into a 40 mph wind and doing the freeway speeds I had an unexpected added fuel stop that a few mpg more would have helped with.