dabangsta

It only needs 87 octane. There are instances where premium (91 or 93) are warranted, like high ambient temps, lots of elevation changes (up and down mountains), towing, or any combination of these. Personally I run 87 octane. I have ran 91 once (highest octane readily available for me) before and maybe a slight "seat of the pants" difference, but it wasn't worth the extra $.50 a gallon, $9 a tank worth. Fuel mileage with 91 was not markedly better, it was so close that I wouldn't consider it any better. That would be an extra $550 for me a year. I guess if you don't put that many miles on a vehicle it might be easier to justify. Who calls it a premium fuel motor? When Ford did the fuel milage tests for the EPA, it was with 87 octane. When Ford did the testing of the horsepower for the 2.0 and the 2.7 they used 93 octane fuel. So it you need to have that 250 HP then sure. When Premium was $.20 more a gallon, I had a Mark VIII that was premium recommended also, but I got way better fuel mileage, and slight drivability improvements (tried it out at the track, there was no difference in speed or time, 60 foot or 1/4 mile), so I usually ran it. I also had a different car of the same era with a tune and some matching upgrades with 91 octane tune and it did much better. I drive in high ambient temps, and do a fair share of 1000ft elevation to 4000ft elevation driving and never have I had any pinging or adverse performance issues. Add towing to the mix, I might.

Welcome! Would love to know more about your vehicle (year, options, color), your plans for it, and any shortcomings or issues you might have. 2009-2010 with the 3.5, 2011-2014 with the 3.7, or 2016-2018 with the 2.7?

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I think that the 2.7 is a better engine than the 2.0, but the 2019 Edge 2.0 fixes the biggest issue with the previous 2.0, the coolant intrusion issue. It does add a different cooling failure, EGR cooler leak, but that is much cheaper to fix if it happens. The ST does have a beefier transmission, I don't know of any known issues with this first year (2019) 8 speed, either the 8F35 (2.0) or the 8F57 (2.7). I also have an older 3.5 powered vehicle, and switch between it and the 2019 Edge with the 2.0. I still like the 3.5 but it is in a lighter AWD car. The GTDI engines are addictive, just for normal performance and mileage if driven right, but have that extra power on tap if you don't mind the fuel mileage hit. I would have loved a 2.7 powered Edge, but not the ST larger wheels or blacked out trim, they are not my style. I guess a Lincoln MKX/Nautilus would be more my speed with the 2.7 but too much of a premium cost over the Edge.

The weather November->May where I live is pretty temperate, and makes the June heat, July-August heat and rain an okay compromise. I from a location that got 30 feet of snow a year and down into the -40F range, and unless I was in a position to split my time between 2 or more places, give me the heat! Modern cars take it in stride. I used MAX AC to get the interior temps down (remote start FTW), but once on the highway and interstate, auto set to 72 with recirc on was comfortable. I also recently added AC to my house, it is way more expensive that my swamp cooler, but I have both, and best of both (switch over to AC when the humidity goes up, otherwise nice chilly humid air at 6500cfm, change the air in the house every couple of minutes). But yes, outdoor work is best done before 9am, I have to take my dogs for their 1.5-2 mile walk at 5:45am, limit outside stuff or stay shaded.

2009 has the combo rotor/drum with small parking brake shoes inside the drum inside the rotor hat. If it was "pad slapped" and the rotor not removed or replaced, I don't see how it would be related. Was the caliper removed and the slides checked and the shims replaced?

Drove it enough to get to this reading: But this is the interesting number, when I got home and parked it/shut it down, the cooling fan stayed on spinning full blast, I have never had that happen with this vehicle, my wife kept telling me I left it running. Luckily at home it was a more moderate 111 degrees, that 7 degrees makes a big difference.

While the coolant intrusion issue would be more than enough to make me not like a vehicle, the previous issues you have suffered up to the point would make it tough to keep a vehicle. I have had my share of vehicles with known issues that I have had to rectify (1989 Cougar 3.8 head gaskets, 2000 Grand Marquis intake manifold), my 2017 Escape with the 1.5 and similar (more prevalent) issue as your 2.0 made me question taking it on longer trips (what it was bought to do), or the 3.5 in my 2012 Fusion and the internal water pump (it is my beat around car so less worried, but still don't want to have any problems). I purposely looked for a 2019 or newer Edge (with a new and exciting EGR failure to replace the engine block issue) for that reason. We'll see how everything else goes, it had already suffered the EGR failure and been fixed before I bought it.

I wold first look for a vacuum leak (after the air filter), it an exhaust leak before the cat, and you can also chart out the o2 sensor signal to see if might not be reading.

Yeah, I have a 2012 Fusion and my daughter has a 2015 Fusion, and I think they are great. No sedans and the entry level now the Maverick which can be hard to get is stopping new brand loyalty starting at the beginning and keeping them when they have more to spend or need something larger. I guess the Escape can be on the lower end as well, but nothing like a Focus or Fusion S.

I was surprised that the Edge is really close to the 2017 Escape in most dimensions. 1/3 inch more front head room (actually less since I have pano roof), .5 more leg room, 4 more front shoulder room (but the location of the center console seems to negate that, it is taller). The cargo area is only 6 inches longer, but with the sharper slanted rear window I actually lose space for some things like a dog kennel. I find the Escape to have more usable spaces even if it is smaller. The center console is more usable, the door pockets, the glove box (the Edge glove box is a joke, as is that silly compartment on top, don't mention the cubby in front of the center console). If I had an equally equipped Escape I would be happier with it. My wife likes the Edge mostly for the pano roof, but finds it larger (it is only 10 inches longer and 4 inches wider than the Escape it replaced) and harder to park. I suppose I have at least one more vehicle purchase to make. I hate the lack of sedans, but will probably go with something more Escape sized. I like the Explorer but not the price, but maybe by the time I need to get another vehicle I will be more likely to spend more. I try to get 20-25 years and 300-350k miles out of vehicles, and newer vehicles, even with cheaper builds and more electronics, seem more likely to be able to do that. I don't know if I am willing to buy a new Lincoln, they are nice and worth the extra cost, but out of my comfort zone ($82,000 for the 2024 Nautilus top end with hybrid). Used the extra $8-12k over the Edge made most MKX/Nautilus out of my range still. I am pretty loyal to Ford, but can keep an open mind.

I see complaints about exported vehicles to the UAE also have this functionality disabled. I don't know the difference between a "for export" to a country or one that was a North America config and exported. I am sure that you can tell this with the VIN, someone here got me detailed specs on mine that show information including the region and if it was marked for export or not. Mine shows build NA (north america), country CAN (Canada), plant Oakville, and the sales information is also NA, USA, Export = N. They don't even have the option to select a wireless network. That Wireless Projection setup is for wireless Android Auto/Carplay.

What is the actual code that is set? I would think this is related to the purge valve or evap system. I wouldn't expect the low pressure in tank fuel pump to be in the list of things to resolve whatever the code that is setting the CEL on.

So even with the power folding down rear seats, the manual lever still allows you to fold them down. Then you should have pretty easy access to the storage bins and spare tire. But knowing if the latch stops working on the liftgate and how to open it is awesome! I think it is overkill in this case and still think a jump is the best solution.

I was going to post a question to see where people would store their battery jump boxes for this very reason. While 90% of the time I use it, it is to help someone else, I have had to use it myself on my own vehicle, at least on a less electronic heavy vehicle (that still has a key slot for the trunk and doors). The rest of my "emergency" tools and kit are under the cargo floor. I built myself an adapter for my battery powered drills battery so in the junk yards I can pop trunks, look at odometers, etc, so I would do that under the hood long enough to be able to pop the hatch. I was going to try lifting mine up from the front (right behind the seat) to see if it could be done, but there is a bunch of stuff there, sorry.

I think that the drivers passenger side cushion cover, leather, stone, is available CT4Z-7862901-EA, and the left and right back covers leather (1???) stone CT4Z7864417EA (left) and CT4Z7864416EA (right). MSRP is $383 for the seat backs (each) and cushion covers are $208. I don't know the difference between leather 1 and leather 2, but all leather 2 is charcoal, so probably the Sport specific pattern? And of course the drivers cushion that will get the most wear is the one that is no longer available. CT4Z-7862900-EA is the one that you can't get.

Since it is intermittent, I would start with the wiring to the transmission, look for bad pins, cracked wires, etc. The TRS is internal to the 6F50, and its connector inside the transmission connects to the main connector. Yes, it would be a lot in labor as you have to drain the transmission, gain access to the top of the transmission, remove the pan, cooler pipe (I think this might be different for different years), TSS, OSS, main control (valve body), and the specialty tools. I would guess 5 hours labor, I think the parts cost is high since an OEM TRS is $90, and the gaskets and filter needed are $350 (the rest of that parts quote).

Last afternoon I testing this out after your post. The camera was in full sun for 5+ hours at 105-112 degrees, and it didn't show any anomalies when I tried it out. This is one of the first Fords with a backup camera that I haven't had issues with. My 2015 Fusion it is currently not reversed, so things on the display to the left are actually on the right. Usually it is blue screen, static screen, or "no signal" displayed. My 2017 Escape it somehow started showing the entire license plate and bumper and only a sliver of the ground behind, never would show another cars bumper, for example.

Generally the battery is good for ~10 years, so you might be at the end of life for one or them all. I finally had an intermittent one in a 2010 Fusion, but so far they are still working in my 2012. Personally I buy very cheap sets off Amazon (for the 2010, for spare winter rims and tires for 2015 Fusion) and they work at as long as the life of the tires so far. Is it a solid TPMS light indicating a low tire, or a blinking one and saying system fault? There are other reasons for faults, my 2017 Escape gave intermittent issues due to a dash cam, then due to a cheapo USB power point (also affected keyless entry distance, needed to be within 5 feet to unlock).

The thing is, I use wireless charging almost exclusively. I have charging pads on my office desk, I built one into my nightstand. Only if I need to very quickly charge it (down to 20% and going someplace in an hour) do I charge with a cable. 10w/15w charging on all the other pads, and it gets slightly warn but not enough to disable charging, which happens on the charging pad in my Edge (and I think to open air slot on the 2020 Explorer). As a matter of fact I frequently use my cell phone as a wireless charger and charge up my older phone and my airpods case using Battery Share. I will try foil on a printed cover and see if it causes faults, if not that is what I will go with. If so, I will disconnect the connector to it.

Many of my Qi wireless charging pads freak out ( flash on and off ) when I place anything solid metal on them, like a soda can or a stainless cup or foil. The air gap needs to be about 20mm it seems. I have mine plugged in as well, but the wireless charging pad turns on even if not charging the phone, and it gets hot, when I put my phone in the cubby.

The wireless charging pad is terrible. I have a 2019 so SYNC 3 so wired Android Auto and Apple Carplay. I plug into a cable for that and for charging. If I store the phone in the cubby it turns on wireless charging, and it charges slower than it is used (so battery drains), gets super hot, and eventually stops charging. So I either need to 3d print something to put in the cubby so that wireless charging doesn't turn on (something with foil on it, if it doesn't freak out the charger) disconnect the module pull the fuse, and lose lumbar (which I use a lot on 12+ hour trips) get longer cables and stop leaving then phone in the cubby I use wireless charging nearly 100% of the time, I have them all over the house. The phone gets warm in them, but charges correctly (not super quick but plenty fast overnight).

Anything upstream and common to both banks could cause this. I would suspect the canister/evap purge valve. Common failure and common set of codes to be set at the same time. It is probably always pulling in gas vapors causing the rich condition. There are ways to test it without firing the parts cannon at it, I found a few posts on this site with details and with pointers to videos and other sites with information why it happens and how to test it.

Ford has some, depending on what year you have and remote start or not (I assume a 2023), like https://accessories.ford.com/products/keyless-entry-keypad-for-vehicles-with-factory-remote-start-2 They are pretty fugly, depending on the color of the vehicle (light or dark) I would have a hard time putting this in a visible place. Depending on your environment, many people installed them in the wheel wells or other hidden places. I don't know if the hidden in the B pillar trim type can be retrofitted or not, probably not easily.

My 2019 was built 1/04/2019 so not subject to this recall, but it is 1 of 3 outstanding on my 2015 Fusion (which is 900 miles away and driven by my daughter). She has recall malaise from taking it in for at least 4 other recalls. She is a teacher so now is the time to get them taken care of (I can't talk, I have one remaining airbag recall on my 2012 Fusion). I think of the 3 recalls still outstanding, she has taken it in for one of them previously, and it was updated.