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1004ron

No crank and multiple warning notices on dashboard

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This morning was the first and only fault ever encountered in my 5+ years of ownership.

 

Got in, foot on brake, in park, and hit the start/Ign button, all dashboard lights came on and the left side of the dashboard scrolled just about every warning, but no crank.

 

Battery is less than a year old, and voltage measured at 12.5v

 

Removed + terminal for a few seconds, put it back and still the same failed to crank.

 

Replaced the batteries in both key fobs, and tried one of the fobs in the center console in the location used when the fob battery is low, and still same no crank.

 

Pulled the battery terminal for about 3 minutes, reconnected and it cranked at usual speed and started.

 

Drove 38 miles to work, parked, tried again and its started perfectly.

 

Google search came up with loads, but most were gibberish.

 

Anyone encountered this - any suggestions on what to check. 

 

 

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a couple of points that may or may not be related;

1- measured voltage is irrelevant. it can still show 12+v and not have enough juice to crank. i had that happen and the cause was a cracked cell. still showed good voltage but not enough current would flow.

2- the batteries in the key fobs are for the lock/unlock and engine start transmit function. the anti-theft chip in the key is passive (RFID). it works without a battery and you can test it.

 

the fact that you removed the terminal and replaced it could mean that you may have dislodged corrosion on the battery post. do you have a battery post cleaner brush? google it if you're not familiar. that would be my first step.

Edited by ben senise
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As Ben said, also if it happens again, try wiggling the gearshift (possible interlock hickup).

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I’ve had the same pinball machine effect occur in the gauge clusters of our 2012 MKX and our 2015 MKX.

 

The 2012 slow-cranked and started, but transitioned to no-crank a few days later. Its seven-year-old original battery tested bad.

 

The 2015 no-cranked with a 3-month-old battery in place. Battery tested bad and was replaced under warranty.

 

Many gauge cluster warnings are low-voltage triggered, and most codes will clear when subsequent key cycles serve up normal voltage.

 

Have the battery tested -- probably a bad cell or bad cells.

 

Below is a PDF download link to TSB 17-2219, relating to the park-detect switch failure which did occur in our 2012, but its symptom was limited to a "Shift To Park" gauge cluster message and it did not present any no-crank condition.

 

Good luck!

 

TSB 17-2219 - 2011-2017 Edge, 2011-2015 MKX, & Other Models - 'Shift To Park' Message, Park-Detect Switch .pdf

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Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

 

When I got home I connected my battery tester and it shows the same health as it did when I bought it from Costco in November 2021.

 

When I installed the new battery I replaced the negative connector and added the felt pads on the terminals.

 

Both terminals clean and secure.

 

Started a few times today with no sign of any issues.

 

IMG_8524.JPG

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Check what codes you get with ForScan. Though you will probably have many voltage/connection related due to the battery disconnection/reconnection, but some might give an indication. I say ForScan as it can read all modules, not just the PCM (you probably know that).

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It happened again this morning.

 

Using Forscan is a good idea, but didn't have time to get out my Windows laptop, renew the license and hook it up - I'll do that when I get home later today and have it ready if it fails to start tomorrow (not going to work tomorrow, so will have time for more interrogation).

 

I hooked up my OBDLink MX+ but the OBDLink app wouldn't connect, even though the iPhone's bluetooth showed connected.

 

I then disconnected the battery, and while disconnected ran my tester again and it showed good health.

 

Reconnected and it started up normally - good crank speed and quick ignition - thereafter the OBDLink app did connect and showed no errors, which can be expected as they would have been cleared with the battery disconnected, but odd that it couldn't communicate with the vehicle earlier.

 

Warning notices displayed in the left of the dashboard:

  1.  Steering Assist Fault Service Required
  2. LOW Engine Oil Pressure
  3. Engine Coolant Over Temperature
  4. Blindspot System Fault - OFF
  5. Cross Traffic System Fault
  6. AWD Malfunction Service Required
  7. See Manual

Odd thing is the mileage showed _ _ _ _ _ _ _

 

It could be an intermittent fault in the relatively new battery, or an electrical connection on the vehicle - not always the easiest to diagnose, but I'll keep at it with the help offered here, thanks.

 

When I arrived at work, a little late, I tried starting with the gear selector NOT in P or N, and of course it doesn't start, and doesn't light-up all the errors.

 

 

20220608_101935751_iOS.jpg

20220608_101214198_iOS.jpg

20220608_102429000_iOS.png

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31 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

Using Forscan is a good idea, but didn't have time to get out my Windows laptop, renew the license and hook it up - I'll do that when I get home later today and have it ready if it fails to start tomorrow (not going to work tomorrow, so will have time for more interrogation).

 

To read codes, ForScan doesn't need a license. License is needed for ABD configurations. OBDlink app, did you download the "Enhanced" DTCs for your model year? If not, the app will only read the regular OBD II codes.

 

As for your mileage showing  _ _ _ _ _ _ _, I have no previous experience with it, just guessing that since the mileage is stored in the IPC itself, could it be an indication of a failing cluster?

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Thanks @omar302

 

I checked and confirmed the OBDLink app has the enhanced OEM Add-Ons and while I was checking for that I updated the device firmware, and still no codes presented.

 

I then used Forscan Lite and it showed loads of communication fault codes - see attached text file.

 

Won't trust the OBDLink app for this again.

 

Soon after starting the engine the charging voltage was around 14.5v and after a while it settled at 13.6v - not sure what's going on with that, but will use the OBDLink dashboard to monitor on the way home.

 

 

DTC_2022-06-08_110115.txt

Info_2022-06-08_105957.txt

Edited by 1004ron
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Beginning with the odd symptom -- explanation of the 'all-dashes odometer' & Pinpoint Test G, from the 2017 Edge Workshop Manual...

 

Good luck!

 

Symptom: The Odometer Is Inoperative

 

Normal Operation and Fault Conditions

If the odometer count message is missing from the PCM through the GWM for 5 seconds or longer, the IPC defaults the odometer display to all dashes (------).

If the odometer count message is deemed invalid by the IPC , the IPC defaults the odometer display to all dashes (------).

If the NVM becomes corrupted or if any NVM failure occurs, odometer displays ERROR.

 

Possible Sources

  • Communication concern
  • GWM concern
  • PCM concern
  • IPC

PINPOINT TEST G: THE ODOMETER IS INOPERATIVE
G1 CHECK FOR CORRUPTED NON-VOLATILE MEMORY (NVM)
  • Ignition ON.
  • Observe the message center display area.

Does the odometer display ERROR?
 
Yes
INTDIAG.GIF  bancircle.png VIN required to access Guided Routine (IPC)
No GO to G2

  G2 PERFORM THE IPC (INSTRUMENT PANEL CLUSTER) SELF-TEST
  • Using a diagnostic scan tool, perform the IPC self-test.

Are any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) recorded?
 
Yes REFER to DTC Chart: IPC in this section.
No GO to G3

  G3 CHECK THE GWM (GATEWAY MODULE A) DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS)
  • Using a diagnostic scan tool, check the GWM Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

Are any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) recorded?
 
Yes
REFER to: Communications Network (418-00 Module Communications Network, Diagnosis and Testing).
No DIAGNOSE all PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Refer to the appropriate section in Group 303 for the procedure.

 

 

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I'm sure you double checked the wiring on the terminals/ grounds etc? Try leaving your positive battery cable unplugged for 15 min. I believe that it will reset the BCM.  If that doesn't work try leaving it unplugged for over night. 

 

Clear the codes after your initial scan. Shut down and restart and rescan you should see that the DTC's have been cleared. Take a look at the BMS in FORScan, did you change it for your upgraded size?  IIRC I believe that you did that in one of your previous post. 

 

HTH

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@1004ron

 

Just guessing here, but one code stood out for me as it pretrains to the ignition switch and at a mileage about 178 KM before current reading. Check the Event Time, do you think it coincides with when the 1st fault came or when you disconnected the battery?

 

On another note, having the OBDLink MX+, due keep it plugged in? If yes, since when? Reason I am asking is because I a strange issue come up some time ago (link to Post), though I did not get any dash lights, the solution was to disconnect the battery. It happened twice and in both cases I remember having the OBDLink MX plugged in for a while. Couldn't get a diagnosis on it and since then I never keep the OBDLink plugged in and it hasn't re-appeared. 

 

Quote

 

Code: U300A - Ignition Switch

Additional Fault Symptom:

 - Signal Invalid

Status:

 - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request

 - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

 Freeze Frame  #1:

-EVENT_TIME: 170563383 s (Tue Jun  7 06:21:55 2022) - Event time

-TOTAL_DISTANCE: 128360 km - Total Distance

-MODULE_VOLTAGE: 11.8 V - Control Module Voltage

-POWER_MODE: Crank  - Power Mode Status

-RSC: Inactive  - RSC

-BTC: Inactive  - BTC

===END ABS DTC===

 

 

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Always parked inside my attached garage, unless its at work in the open parking lot.

 

This morning it started without a problem, so can't do any further diagnostics until it occurs again.

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Intermittent electrical issues can be notoriously frustrating at times.   As much as we would all love for you to get to the bottom line with this! I'm hoping this particular gremlin doesn't rare its head again!  I'm sure you will sort it out if it eventually returns.

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Update:

On 9 June I lifted all the relays in the engine compartment fuse box and reseated them and since then its never misbehaved.

 

Speculation, but maybe a little oxidation on one of the terminals related to the data bus ?

 

Fingers crossed that its resolved.

 

I bought a hard copy wiring diagram service manual, not as nice as the color schematics @Haz posts, but it should help if I need to do any fault finding in the future.

Edited by 1004ron
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