Transmission Flush, or simple drain and fill?

[DILLARD000]

4 hours ago, bobdabildr said:

I just changed  my 2012 3.5 with 162,000 miles . I couldn't  believe  how brown it was. I think  every 50,000 would be good.  I'll wait just a bit and do it again. I've been  doing a deep  maintenance to get everything  synced out.  Drvrs side 1/2 axle. Oil. Trans fld. Pwr srng fld. 4 rotors and ceramic  pads. Shalom

If you got AWD, be sure to change the RDU gear oil and especially the PTU gear oil, at least every 50k miles.

[colinc755]

Just wanted to share an update on this post. 

 

Once you have done this before and have taken out the flow restrictor on the 8f35, this job can be done much simpler. I was able to get the cap off and fit the funnel in with the airbox still attached. I loosened the 2 mounting screws and popped it loose while trying to free up any other slack I could and it moved just enough to jam a long funnel. I also found that with some careful positioning, it is possible to take off the leveling plug without removing the tire, though it is a tight fit and the wheel should be turned all the way to the right. 

 

This made the job take effectively 30 minutes start to finish, but it does require knowledge of where these parts are already located and an ability to reach these places with objects in the way. I have seen Ford Techs say it is alright to run the car a bit with the airbox off so long as you keep the are very clean, so that is an option if a funnel can't fit (though this does come with risks of course and keeping the airbox on will always be safer). 

[atulo]

Does anyone remember how much fluid will come out at the leveling port after driving around to get the temperature about 200 degrees?

[Wubster100]

On 10/11/2022 at 4:37 PM, colinc755 said:

…

 

What frustrates me the most is that Ford recognized this and converted the software in the 2022+ ST models to skip the new 2nd gear, making it an artificial 7-speed transmission. This has made the newer ST's amazing to drive, and Ford has no plans of porting that software to any older ST's or 2.0's so we are stuck. Keeping up on fluids will help those quirks just remain as quirks and not endless damage. 

I think there may be a new PCM update that will skip second gear most of the time.

[Wubster100]

Any tips on ensuring the vehicle is level? Are there certain places in the vehicle to measure to see if it is level? 

[colinc755]

1 hour ago, atulo said:

Does anyone remember how much fluid will come out at the leveling port after driving around to get the temperature about 200 degrees?

When I’ve done it no more than .2qts, it’s all about how much you filled it in the first place. If you see nothing at all that usually means it’s too low. 
 

I like the strategy of seeing what came out, matching it, then starting the engine and cycling through the gears hanging out for 5-10 seconds in each one while cold (this can be done with the air filter box off in a garage free of debris, but that is risky. I recommend inserting a long funnel first then reassemble the air box before starting). Then leaving the engine running in park, I remove the level plug and add fluid until the more comes out the side. I’ve found that while cold trying to match what I drained still leaves me low by up to .8qts. Once I verify that, I put the plug back in and assemble it to the point of a test drive to get up to temp. Since the fluid expands with heat, filling it until fluid comes out cold will guarantee that it’s not under filled for what can be a 20 minute test drive. 

Edited July 13, 2024 by colinc755

[colinc755]

21 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

Any tips on ensuring the vehicle is level? Are there certain places in the vehicle to measure to see if it is level? 

I wouldn’t go by anything on the frame necessarily because I’m not sure if the Edge sits level, but I’d just say to use a garage surface or a generally flat parking lot. I don’t think it needs to be perfect, but any areas with an obvious slope should be avoided as it could make the fluid seem falsely full. 

[atulo]

11 hours ago, colinc755 said:

When I’ve done it no more than .2qts, it’s all about how much you filled it in the first place. If you see nothing at all that usually means it’s too low. 
 

Yes, I just let the hot extra fluid coming out at the leveling port. It is about 6 oz (.2 qt).

Edited July 13, 2024 by atulo

[Wubster100]

Is there a magnet on the oil drain plug?

[Tim W. AZ]

10 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

Is there a magnet on the oil drain plug?

No

[Wubster100]

I just drained mine and 3.5 liters came out. I am having trouble with the snap ring. I tried to start filling the transmission but only a little bit went in, and the rest leaked out because I didn’t remove the funnel thing that is blocking it.

[atulo]

11 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

I just drained mine and 3.5 liters came out. I am having trouble with the snap ring. I tried to start filling the transmission but only a little bit went in, and the rest leaked out because I didn’t remove the funnel thing that is blocking it.

 You miss this from colinc755:

"Once that is done, filling the transmission is not as simple as removing the top plastic cap. You must also remove the funnel that the cap rests in because Ford placed a piece of plastic in between the cap and the funnel, blocking any fluid that tries to enter. To remove this you must get a pair of needle-nose pliers and pinch in the snap ring and pull up on the assembly. This window that the pliers can fit in is incredibly tiny and removing this funnel will take a lot of patience. Once the funnel is removed, keep track of that plastic piece that sits inside it. You can now fill the transmission with fluid, I would recommend trying to match what came out and add .25qts-.5qts to it (this is because if you pour too little fluid you can't add anymore without removing everything you just removed). "

[Wubster100]

Finally got it off. 

2019 Edge 2-0 8F35 Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill.pdf

[dabangsta]

Anyone have the details on removing the air cleaner/filter housing for a 2019 with the 2.0? I hate to be stuck on step 1, I just am not able to find the mounting points (and not prolonging the pain that is completing this task...).

 

Never mind, once I got the snorkle unbolted it became obvious it was just press fit into rubber donuts, and pulling up harder released it. Now to the rest of it!

Edited August 10, 2024 by dabangsta

[chipdog4]

I just drained and filled my transmission.  I had a valve body replacement (and fluid replacement) just before 60,000 miles under warranty (due to the surging) and I have 82,750 currently.  

I got 4.5 quarts out and put that much back in.  It was very dark fluid and smelled like gear oil. I think I'll be changing it every 20,000 miles from here on.

 

Just wanted to add something as I was getting confused by the funnel talk.  The cap that needs to be removed is just a breather hose/vent.  There's actually a cable type clamp that would work great to remove the clamp (linked below). 

 

After finally seeing it, I'm going to get a length of fuel line and extend it up near the top of the engine so I won't have to remove the air box and zip tube next time for a transmission drain and fill.  Should have measured it but maybe 3/4" hose by 2 feet and zip tie that off somewhere and put that little breather cap on top of that.

 

Not sure why it rotates my pictures.

 

Edit: my fluid level plug on the side was super tight.  It takes a 10mm hex bit socket.  I was using 3/8" drive and was flexing the ratchet.  Stepped up to 1/2" drive and got it loose.  I was able to check with the tire on and turned all the way to the right and laying on my back.  Need about 10-12" of extension with the socket.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH-Cable-Hose-Clamp-Pliers-82115/303732784

 

 

 

Edited December 9, 2024 by chipdog4

[fishx65]

Just did a drain and refill on my 30,000 mile 22 ST-Line 2.0.  That little breather hose wasn't too bad but make sure to face the clamp tabs forward when ya put it back on to make it easier next time.  I was lazy and just put back in what I drained out which was about 5 1/4 quarts. 

[Biker]

Good call on the hose clamp. I did the full procedure heating up to operating temp and using the level plug. A dealership did the last drain and fill and I didn't entirely trust how they did the fill.

[cameracarl]

I have a 2018 Edge 3.5L V6 AWD SEL with 87,000 miles. I'm starting to notice rough shifting, some hesitation on downshifts, clunking on change of mind shifts, etc.

I discussed this with a service writer at the local Ford dealership. He said that diagnostics would cost around $450 and they might not find anything. He suggested instead that I either do a transmission drain and fill or a flush and fill. The flush and fill was about twice the cost of the drain and fill ($500 versus $250). Since Ford doesn't recommend transmission service in the maintenance schedule, I haven't had any transmission work done on the car. I have no idea if either makes sense, but I worry that the flush and fill might cause more harm than good, maybe loosening debris in the transmission that could jam something in the valve body or wherever. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

[Biker]

Have you had the most recent transmission software installed? Sometimes that helps. Personally, I would do drain and fill only. 

There are other things that can cause shifting issues, so a good diagnostic might also be useful. The ecm relies on a number of engine and drivetrain sensors to determine shift points, harshness etc.