akirby

Some components are sensitive to certain chemicals. Some may be fine others may not be so they just recommend against it. Use it at your own risk.

Switch back to paper filter and see if mileage goes back down. Then do another round to see if the gain is consistent.

That would be my guess - there are no addresses that begin with a space. I bet it un-grays as you type an address name.

And it's so stylish to boot!

I'd get it changed again and make sure they use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5W-20.

Not only will they not help - Ford specifically says not to use them.

Something isn't right.

If yours doesn't work like the manual says and others do then it's not working as designed. Just take the service manager for a ride in yours and another one off the lot and show him they're different. Just to confirm - if you start the vehicle and put it in S without touching any of the shift buttons what happens exactly?

Check the receipt from the oil change if you still have it. If it started suddenly then it's either the fuel, the oil or both. The O2 sensor would degrade over time or throw a code and light immediately.

Have you changed tires recently? Check tire air pressure. Could be a combination of low tire pressures and winter fuel. A dirty air filter won't affect fuel economy. It's also possible you got some bad gas.

The THX system has external amps and isn't compatible with non-THX systems. Don't listen to 80 yr old dealership employees.

It must vary by dealership because I've heard most salespeople say the opposite - it doesn't matter. I guess it depends on how their incentives are set up.

That's an urban myth.

pet peeve alert - it's "peace of mind" not "piece of mind".. Plans aren't BS - they're just insurance. But the odds of paying out more than they cost hasn't changed. As repair costs have gone up the number of repairs has actually gone down. Ford knows exactly what their average payout is on every vehicle and that's calculated into the cost of the ESP up front. You can always make out ok on individual vehicles but it's like winning in Vegas - it's done every day but over the long run the odds are not in your favor.

It means......throttle body. It's the part that lets air into the engine. It's the modern version of a carburetor but without the fuel. They're electronically controlled and Ford has had problems with them on several new vehicles. At least that's the most likely suspect especially since a reboot fixes it.

Not just normal - it's a feature. Unless you drive around with the filler door open there should be no way for crud to get in there. I think you can get a cap if it really bothers you that much.

Statistically speaking, Recouping your costs on extended warranties on 9 out of 10 vehicles is like almost like winning the lottery. What make/models were you buying?

Throttle body.

Either they lowballed your trade by a few thousand (regardless of what carmax offered), kept additional incentives they didn't tell you about or that's not really the dealer invoice price. Selling a new vehicle at cost is bad enough. Selling one and losing over $3K? That's either insane or a scam.

Nobody said the holdback was only a few hundred dollars. What Waldo said was the spiff check that Ford gives each dealer for a plan sale was a few hundred and that's true but that's not holdback. What I said in another thread somewhere was that holdback minus the salesperson's commission and floor plan interest would only net to a few hundred dollars. Holdback is always 3% but the dealer still has costs that come out of that. A dealer selling to the public at A plan price without including incentives and without adding a large doc fee is losing money on every sale. Period. It doesn't make sense although I don't doubt what you're saying. I've heard of other dealers doing this. I guess they're making money on used car sales and service but it doesn't seem like a good business practice.

Oh. I thought you were adding BLIS (ignorance is bliss). Never mind...........

Just to be clear - that was a clue, not a put-down.

He's planning to be ignorant.

Not necessarily. You need to understand what the vehicle actually costs the dealer. In this case the dealer invoice is roughly $41K minus $3K rebates = $38K. At $38K they're still making about $1K from the holdback. At $37K they're not making a dime. So you have to ask yourself - why would they essentially give away a vehicle for free? It happens but I'd be skeptical. The other possibility is you're actually qualified for more than $3K and they're keeping that without telling you. You can check this at another dealer to be safe. The incentives will be the same. All that said, if the incentives are accurate and they're willing to sell it for $37K then that's a really good price. However, you need to beware of the processing fee (or doc/documentation fee). That's nothing but additional profit for the dealer and it can be as high as $700. Whatever it is just remember that it's additional profit so add it to the vehicle price when you're comparing.

That puts dealer invoice around $41K so $37K is another $4k off. You need to find out which incentives the dealer is including. If the incentives are only $3K or $4K then that's a pretty good price. If the incentives are $5K it's not a good price. And you need to make sure the dealer is quoting you incentives that you qualify for and not assuming that you get ALL available incentives because you probably don't. Actual dealer invoice minus factory rebates is typically the lowest price you can reasonably expect to pay. This only leaves the dealer with a few hundred profit after paying the salesman and interest on the floor plan. Anything below that is usually too good to be true or there is manipulation going on with the trade-in.