omar302

No sounds. Just that feeling. But thanks.

See this thread. Already done by @27Sport on his 2015 Edge. Probably would work on a 2013. They have a photo of a Edge ST. Should be plug & play ?. You need to buy a good quality USB socket. For Android phones, most would benefit from Quick Charge 2.0 or 3.0 which will charge even faster than the USB smart ports. There are also small sized sockets that will fit nearly flush.

I know OP has not come back, but anyone else with a similar issue? I statred getting a similar feeling now at about 14,000 Km. It is not the Lane Keep assist, though it does feel similar. Tries resetting by disconnecting the battery and checking alignment. Everything is ok. Also no codes found using ForScan, so I know that the reply I will get from the dealer is that they did not find any problems. The issue is not very apparent, but it is unsettling. Mainly when taking a long curve, it feels like the steering wheel would want to hold onto that path with no force (torque) to return the wheel to the center which is the normal feeling when driving through a curve. Even for a brief moment if i let go of the steering it will remain turned (and the car) for a second or so.

Anyone can confirm if the headlights and front turn signals to confirm are LED or not? It seems Ford is still mixed up with the 2019 Edge. Not only with the adaptive lights, but also the bulbs as the owners manual shows the headlight bulbs as either H11/9005 (Halogen) or D3S (HID) although the 2019 Order guide states "Headlamps on all series are Bi-LED, Low and High Beam".

Try doing a master reset (hard reset) to see if it helps. In case the system hangs, you force a system restart as follows:

@HotDowge #1: there is no way to enable or disable them, they should be working by default. The best way to see them working, from my experience on my left MKX, is to startup the car at night in front of a wall with the headlights on, they should be clearly moving left & right (or vice versa). It is standard on the 401a package, from the description in the order guide it is "Adaptive LED Headlamps with LED Amber Light Blade Turn Signals", so do you have the LED front Amber blade turn signals? #2: probably needs a cleaning, but don't worry about & let the warranty take care of it. #3: probably best to go like what @WWWPerfA_ZN0W stated above.

I noticed the same thing, but two things made me incline towards the twisting method: First it does expressly state to rotate it at the end in case the piston bottoms out but was still not fully compressed and also has a note to not put over 20 Nm force when rotating. The second reason is that it states to use a "General Equipment: Brake Caliper Piston Retractor" while for the Font pads it states to use a C-Clamp with an old pad. Edit: By the way, thanks for the write-up, I don't remember seeing one for the 2015+ Edge, seems like the pads have a long life span.

See the attached procedures. Yes, the rear caliper requires the special tools, and yes, the parking brakes need to be put into service mode. I think service mode can also be activated with ForScan. Also, take note of the front pads as they now have an adhesive to prevent/reduce noise and shudder. Brake Pads R and I Front.pdf Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) Service Mode Activation and Deactivation.pdf Brake Pads R and I Rear.pdf

New headlights are much better than those of older cars. They will resist yellowing much better. Also, any sort of tinting, even clear, will affect (reduce) light output.

The ballasts are connected to the bottom of the headlights. So you need to remove the headlight in order to change the ballasts. For the 2011-2014 model, I believe the front bumper cover needs to be removed in order to remove the headlights. You should easily find a video on YouTube on how to remove the headlights as several members uploaded how to videos.

As per Ford's Accessories website this should work. But take care of the notes written in case they are applicable.

Found an eBay listing for the under body shield fastener kit mentioned in the TSB. Just in case anyone was interested seeing what it is.

Not possible. But there is a "Delay" option for the camera if enabled through vehicle settings in the center screen will allow the camera to stay on after you shift out of reverse and into drive until your speed goes above about 5 mph.

Though I didnt face it myself, but from reading about PTU issues for several years, never did I read anything about the subframe being involved when working on the PTU.

The wheels are SEL base wheels. So it seems to actually be missing the SEL and Ecoboost (for 2.0L) badges like this example. Also, if it was an all-wheel drive, there should also be an AWD badge.

Yes. It should work.

How did they determine that the bank 1 cat is gone? If it was only by the code, I'd do the spark plugs, reset the codes and test it. If the code for the cat comes back again, then replace it.

DetroitWheelandtire has many listings for OEM wheels and has wheel specifications. The 21" is 9" wide with 55mm offset. The 20" is 8" wide with 52.5mm offset. I don't think 2.5mm difference will make a difference, but I am not an expert.

That is part of the ST Performance Brake Package as mentioned in the Order Guide. Ford has done that before, I think with the SHO with the performance package (or whatever it was called).

Like what @WWWPerfA_ZN0W stated, try the other things first. What was the code scanned? Converter not working properly might just be a symptom of what is actually wrong.

Sorry, don't know what else can be done. Hopefully a more knowledgeable member will chime in.

Maybe it is the engine misfiring? When were the Spark Plugs changed? if never, and given your mileage, they probably need replacement. But since you already have the check engine light, then see what code(s) you have.

I am sure you'll get better responses from more experienced members, from my experience, when a brake pedal goes to the floor, the first thing to suspect is the brake Master Cylinder. There are no design issues as this is not a common problem. It seems to me it is a dealer issue. I'd suggest you call the Ford helpline or customer service number and raise the issue with them.

Test: Edit: OK it is now working . Thanks.

Congratulations. Hope you enjoy it and welcome to the forums..