omar302

I previously used the MotorCraft TPMS tool to re-learn the wheel order, I didn't know that the Edge can auto learn the locations of each wheel/tire which I found by mistake after a wheel rotation. To test it, I had the front left tire inflated by +3 psi more than the other tires while it was still programmed as the rear left tire. After driving the Edge for a few minutes the system recognized the correct left front tire and reported the correct pressure (from 39 to 36 psi) and after a few seconds the left rear was also recognized and reading changed (from 36 to 39 psi). So a manual relearn using the Motorcraft TPMS tool is not required. Made the video to confirm this as it happened several times before. Doing the the relearing with the TPMS tool and mixing the order of learned tires will mixup the readings on the display, but after a few minutes driving the TPMS display will return to the correct order.

I assume you mean they do light up for you at night which is correct as what @2FAST4U stated above, but your issue is why they light up in the day only when shutting of the car? If that is the case, then that is because Ford has their cars turn on the parking lights when a door is open even when engine is off. Maybe it is there way of making other notice the car if a door is open. When the parking lights come on, so do the interior backlighting.

ForScan can get the code. Tried it myself.

So I looked at the 2016 Edge Sport Livernois Tune from this video and from screenshots of the HP & TQ graphs I put them side to side for easy comparison. For now, it seems the Sport is better tuned:

@enigma-2 OP has a different issue. He knows the factory code, which he can still use to unlock the door. His issue is that on the center screen there is a settings menu that enables you to program your own code after entering the factory code. The menu also enables you to erase that code. The issue arises after erasing the code after which the system seems to have forgotten the factory code & you cant program your own code. It's a MyFord Touch issue from a long time.

If I remember correctly, after some time the option will come back. Sync2 is programmed to make a system restart every about 18 to 20 hours of operation, it restarts while the car is off. This is from my observations as I don't have firm knowledge of it. Anyway, usually once this resort happens the door lock menu resets. Another thing you can do is to do a Master Reset.

The 2015+ Edge has electric power assisted steering (EPAS) so no oil is involved. Does your 2018 has the same wheel/tire as the 2015? Also check with the dealer, maybe they can do something.

No sounds. Just that feeling. But thanks.

See this thread. Already done by @27Sport on his 2015 Edge. Probably would work on a 2013. They have a photo of a Edge ST. Should be plug & play ?. You need to buy a good quality USB socket. For Android phones, most would benefit from Quick Charge 2.0 or 3.0 which will charge even faster than the USB smart ports. There are also small sized sockets that will fit nearly flush.

I know OP has not come back, but anyone else with a similar issue? I statred getting a similar feeling now at about 14,000 Km. It is not the Lane Keep assist, though it does feel similar. Tries resetting by disconnecting the battery and checking alignment. Everything is ok. Also no codes found using ForScan, so I know that the reply I will get from the dealer is that they did not find any problems. The issue is not very apparent, but it is unsettling. Mainly when taking a long curve, it feels like the steering wheel would want to hold onto that path with no force (torque) to return the wheel to the center which is the normal feeling when driving through a curve. Even for a brief moment if i let go of the steering it will remain turned (and the car) for a second or so.

Anyone can confirm if the headlights and front turn signals to confirm are LED or not? It seems Ford is still mixed up with the 2019 Edge. Not only with the adaptive lights, but also the bulbs as the owners manual shows the headlight bulbs as either H11/9005 (Halogen) or D3S (HID) although the 2019 Order guide states "Headlamps on all series are Bi-LED, Low and High Beam".

Try doing a master reset (hard reset) to see if it helps. In case the system hangs, you force a system restart as follows:

@HotDowge #1: there is no way to enable or disable them, they should be working by default. The best way to see them working, from my experience on my left MKX, is to startup the car at night in front of a wall with the headlights on, they should be clearly moving left & right (or vice versa). It is standard on the 401a package, from the description in the order guide it is "Adaptive LED Headlamps with LED Amber Light Blade Turn Signals", so do you have the LED front Amber blade turn signals? #2: probably needs a cleaning, but don't worry about & let the warranty take care of it. #3: probably best to go like what @WWWPerfA_ZN0W stated above.

I noticed the same thing, but two things made me incline towards the twisting method: First it does expressly state to rotate it at the end in case the piston bottoms out but was still not fully compressed and also has a note to not put over 20 Nm force when rotating. The second reason is that it states to use a "General Equipment: Brake Caliper Piston Retractor" while for the Font pads it states to use a C-Clamp with an old pad. Edit: By the way, thanks for the write-up, I don't remember seeing one for the 2015+ Edge, seems like the pads have a long life span.

See the attached procedures. Yes, the rear caliper requires the special tools, and yes, the parking brakes need to be put into service mode. I think service mode can also be activated with ForScan. Also, take note of the front pads as they now have an adhesive to prevent/reduce noise and shudder. Brake Pads R and I Front.pdf Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) Service Mode Activation and Deactivation.pdf Brake Pads R and I Rear.pdf

New headlights are much better than those of older cars. They will resist yellowing much better. Also, any sort of tinting, even clear, will affect (reduce) light output.

The ballasts are connected to the bottom of the headlights. So you need to remove the headlight in order to change the ballasts. For the 2011-2014 model, I believe the front bumper cover needs to be removed in order to remove the headlights. You should easily find a video on YouTube on how to remove the headlights as several members uploaded how to videos.

As per Ford's Accessories website this should work. But take care of the notes written in case they are applicable.

Found an eBay listing for the under body shield fastener kit mentioned in the TSB. Just in case anyone was interested seeing what it is.

Not possible. But there is a "Delay" option for the camera if enabled through vehicle settings in the center screen will allow the camera to stay on after you shift out of reverse and into drive until your speed goes above about 5 mph.

Though I didnt face it myself, but from reading about PTU issues for several years, never did I read anything about the subframe being involved when working on the PTU.

The wheels are SEL base wheels. So it seems to actually be missing the SEL and Ecoboost (for 2.0L) badges like this example. Also, if it was an all-wheel drive, there should also be an AWD badge.

Yes. It should work.

How did they determine that the bank 1 cat is gone? If it was only by the code, I'd do the spark plugs, reset the codes and test it. If the code for the cat comes back again, then replace it.

DetroitWheelandtire has many listings for OEM wheels and has wheel specifications. The 21" is 9" wide with 55mm offset. The 20" is 8" wide with 52.5mm offset. I don't think 2.5mm difference will make a difference, but I am not an expert.