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Everything posted by macbwt
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In part 2 of this video I lubricated and installed the rear guides, Re-installed the glass and then re-initialized the vista roof.
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- panoramic vista roof
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I removed the vista roof glass and performed a cleaning, lubrication in part 1 of this video.
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- panoramic vista roof
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You are almost right. Your sway bar link is broken. Go buy MOOG problem solver sway bar links and you will be good to go. The cheap ones will only break. Once you see the size of the MOOGS you will know why they are so good.
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broken sway bar links will make for of a metallic clank. Strut bearing mounts are more a dull clunking sound up higher.
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If both fans failed you would notice it pretty quickly. Your AC fan has stopped working. I can confirm that the fans do not run at high speeds over 50-60 miles per hour as the air flow is sufficient to cool everything. ( I recommend the Forscan app much better program) I have tried to see the fans running but it is difficult to get in there to check. Audible sound is about the best you get. Taking the fan out and hooking it up to 12 volt source would be your best way to test the fan. Fan shroud and fans are one assembly. Pretty classic failure so you most likely are not parts swapping if you replace the fan with an OEM fan.
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Jingling/rattling sound from driver's side rear wheel
macbwt replied to Katie Belton's topic in Brakes, Chassis & Suspension
Could be a lot of things. Look for worn brake pads, broken sway bar link. loose brake shield etc. Have to get down there and start tugging on things and looking for worn or broken components.- 1 reply
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I think you are confusing the 1st gen with the 1.5 gen rear brake calipers. No special tool to force the calipers back. use a caliper tool or C-clamp. The 1.5 refresh has a completely different rear brake and emergency brake that is self adjusting. Replacing pads and rotor will be nearly the same as the fronts. Once exception is the positioning screw get it out and toss it unless you like rusty screws that you can not remove. That screw was an assembly screw and serves no purpose. There is an adjustment located under the Edge that is connected to both rear brake cables. you will have to get under the Edge and loosen or tighten the adjustment nut. Cycle the brake a half dozen times then make adjustments. Also helps to have the Edge in neutral if it is AWD.
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A large rubber bump stop can be placed on the strut. The edge does not have bump stops. Install it on the strut by sliding the rubber absorber over the strut shaft.
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No doubt Ford broke the window during installation.
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Just dump the seafoam in the gas tank and drive. You are doing a whole lot of nothing with this stuff. Buy good gas. Mileage in town will be low as the Edge does not do well in city driving 16-18 mpg for the 3.5L.
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Ditto, Get a used engine that matchs and have trusted independent shop perform the transplant. For peace of mind the water pump does fail and it does sometimes dump the water into the oil since the water pump is sealed into the engine that is where the coolant will flow (directly into the oil pan) 3-4 k for a complete engine replacement would be a better figure for cost maybe less shop around.
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Have had Lullubelle just a bit over a year and it is already time for a check up on the brakes and some maintenance.
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- 2011 Ford Edge
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Good maintenance is key.
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The rear hatch has a small rectangular plastic piece you simply pop off on the inside and then press the release to open the hatch. simple really. So you are saying you could not unlock the door with the key from outside? I am going to raise the BS flag on this one. Total fabrication of a story.
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- battery
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I will add that the last car fire/accident I was at the plastic was holding up pretty good even though it was on fire. I had first hand observation because I put the fire out with my CO2 fire extinguisher.
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Standard checks of high and low pressure on system. Then check to make sure the fans are operating appropriately and at speeds.
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It will release you may have to convince it and use a small flat blade screw driver to help move it along. work carefully but apply some force. Mine came right out. No idea why yours is not releasing.
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Confirmed that during assembly of my Ford Edge the window was over torqued and cracked. Ford says it is a stress fracture in the glass. well duh if you tighten the holders on the glass until it cracks of course it will break. No admission by ford they did this but here is the evidence of a failure to correct a known issue.
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- mactfordedge
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Due to Ford over torquing the window I had to replace my window.
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- 2011 Ford Edge
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I have to agree that the AC is freezing up and when you stop using it and just run the fan with the AC off it will defrost and the Wow I have AC again. Get the charge checked.
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Well at 152,000 miles not one leak or crack on my plastic valve cover. I will let you know when i get to 200,000 in about 10 months and see if they are still holding up and not leaking or cracking. I am willing to bet they keep on trucking. Keep in mind you have a plastic intake on yours and it is how old? And exposed to a lot of heat.
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You can spend money on the CAI, but in reality no bang for you dollar as far as HP gains. It will sound cool though. And look neat. K&N seems to have the market some what cornered on the CAI. Exhaust might provide you with more ponies but not a lot (might not be enough to really notice) at about 700-900 dollars that is a lot of cash for maybe 10hp. Again if you delete the exhaust resonator and can live with the extra noise it might be a choice to go with the popular Magnaflow catback system. If you have a job where you start up your Edge at 5am at least the neighbors can save on buying a new alarm clock.
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Except for me. I have to pay!!! Just turned over 152,000 miles.