enigma-2

Inasmuch as the booster has a 150,000 extended warranty why not have the dealer do it. (Btw, has the diaphragm starts to tear, the booster starts hissing, pedal get spongy. Only gets worst, might as well have it changed).

Well that's certainly scary. Good thing they found it.

Air miles. Each air mile is equal to 7 ground miles.

Btw, how did you determine that the GPS antenna was bad? I don't believe they fail very often. Did you try a radio reset? Don't know how it's done on the aftermarket radio, but it sometimes resets a radio with a glitch and fixes it.

It's a pink connector on gen 1 radios, but in the gen 2 (MyFord Touch) I believe it's bundled in the main radio harness (sorry, misunderstood, thought you had a gen 1 system and looking to add a nav system. Not necessary in gen 2 systems, already there). In gen 1 it's located above the radio, below the center speaker. As it's standard on gen 2 systems, I'm not completely certain. It needs to "see" windshield but will be located inside the instrument cluster. I would guess it's still in back of and above the radio unit.

Not a pink wire, it's the pink connector. It's located above the radio, below the speaker in tbe instrument cluster.

Youtube video, guy shows how you have to come in from the back side on the passenger side.

Just out of curiosity, what's the battery voltage? Someone else in the 150 forum reported the same problem went away after he put in a new battery.

Billy, I have a 2009 MKX with 20" wheels and a T165/80D17 spare. The car had originally come with 18". (Don't know if they used a 17 with factory 20" wheels or not, but based on the size of the spare storage well, it's probably standard). I've used my spare a couple of times without any problems. Rides hard, noisy and rough, but it is what it is. One thing that may have contributed to your problems, and I seen this first hand on mine, is the pressure in the spare. Tire states to inflate to 60 psi. When my tires were getting to the point of needing changing, I remembered to check the spare's tire pressure. It was low, way low. (Probably had not been checked since the car left the factory). I plugged in the air compressor and brought it up to 60 psi. It was the very next week when I picked up a lag screw and had to use the spare for the first time. Did you ever check your spare's pressure? I would have your local Ford garage check to car over and see if it's the tranny sensors or PTU failure. Whichever it is, can't rule out the age of the car, service history (did you ever drain and refilled either the PTU and transmission with fresh fluid)? If you don't do the service, you can expect the parts to fail. Anyway, was just reading a post where a forum member was going to buy a PTU online for <$600 and have a local mechanic install it for jus a few hours labor. (Think it was three, but may have been five. Still cheap considering ...) Either way, you could get the problem fixed for under a grand. If you go the Ford garage route, they have a credit plan (which I use all the time) where you put the bill on Ford Credit, take a year to pay it off WITH NO INTEREST, and get a check back in the mail if over $200. They can sign you up at the service desk. Good luck.

Really? I've never seen a single mosquitoe in Arizona. (We own property up near Sedona).

Wow, great deal. If I were you, I would also consider asking him to drill and tap a drain in the replacement PTU. Still have to drain and refill this unit in the future.

Audio amplifier connector? Here's how one company adds trailer wiring (FYI). https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2014-ford-edge-118515.aspx

groan (remember the "greasy kids stuff" ads)?

I recently ran across a detailed description of what was causing the carbon buildup of the backside of the valves. "One concern thats becoming a problem with all GTDI engines is excessive carbon buildup on the back side of the intake valves. This causes hard-to-diagnose misfires, especially when the engine is cold, and can also create a rough, rolling idle. One reason for this is valve timing. When the exhaust valve opens on the exhaust stroke under boost conditions, the intake valve opens slightly to allow forced air into the combustion chamber. This push of forced fresh air aids in the evacuation of exhaust from the cylinder. During this overlap, a small amount of combustion gases can sneak past the intake valves, causing carbon buildup on the back side of the valves. The direct fuel injection worsens this condition because fuel isnt sprayed directly onto the intake valve to clean it off; direct injection sprays fuel directly into the combustion chamber. Another contributor to this issue is the PCV system. Besides the normal crankcase vapors that enter the intake from the PCV system, these vapors can also enter the intake from the turbocharger. A check valve in the PCV vacuum hose diverts crankcase vapors to the turbochargers low-pressure hose under boost conditions. This prevents the backflow of pressurized intake air through the PCV valve and into the crankcase. The only sure way to diagnose excessive carbon buildup is to look at the valves with a borescope. So if youre diagnosing a phantom misfire on a GTDI engine, especially if its worse cold and after eliminating the usual suspects, break out the borescope."

My guess is that this is the selonoid that controls to flow of oil to the front or back side od the VCT actuator. It's controlled by the PCM. The operation on the selonoid causes a differential change in oil pressure to rotate the camshaft actuator to an advanced or retarded position.

You used hair cream on the coil sockets? Did you use Rogaine on the top of the spark plugs?

Here's a link to the 2017 Ford Edge "advisory" recall: https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2017/03/02/ford-issues-safety-compliance-recall-in-north-america.html

I'm just guessing as to why you ran through pads at 18k miles, but it's possible that it was a combination of your winter and your driving and the automatic traction system or stability system. Those systems can really heat the brakes up while working properly. Often you never notice them. Other possibilities include the proportioning valve and as you suggested, lack of grease on the tabs. Usually it's the fronts that go first. How are the front pads?

Must have been a ground loop caused by a weak ground connection. You probably found the cause. If it starts to come back, do same thing only spray the connectors with some CRC Electronic Contact Cleaner (or equal).

Indiana. Was in the upper 60's here last week. Back up to 81° here today. Wish you fellows from Mississippi would stop sending your mosquitoes up here. We seem to have enough. Send them to the folks in Arizona, believe they could use some more. Course you won't find any in California. They routinely burn the state down to get rid of them.

These two videos may be help. The first is to determine if the problem is a wiring problem or if it's the PCM. The second is the method used to remove the PCM to send it in for repair.

Have you tried a reinitialization procedure? "Start the engine. If sunroof open, then press and hold the glass close switch until the glass is in CLOSED position. Release, repress and hold the glass close switch (for at least 10 seconds). - The glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop and stall. - The shade panels will move toward their front hard-stops, stall, move back a few millimeters, then forward. - After the shade panels have finished moving backward and forward, release the glass close switch. Press and hold the glass close switch. -The glass and shades will fully open together. Then, the glass will close first and then the shades will return to the fully CLOSED position. When the shades have stopped moving, release the glass close switch. Initialization is now complete. Verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch vent (glass) and one-touch open for the shades. - If roof opening panel does not operate correctly, repeat Steps 2 through 5. NOTE:The glass close switch must be held during the entire initialization process or the sequence will be aborted and the roof will remain in a de-initialized state. Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path". The only way to manually close the Visa Roof is to remove the roof liner and manually pull the cord to shut it.

Water pump, timing chain guides?

Try making a small cardboard baffle (perhas using a empty toilet paper roll) (painted black). Just something temporary to test this hypothesis.

Don't believe that there is any scheduled maintenance required. Abut once a year I'll spray the mechanism with silicone spray lubricant.