enigma-2

Something I found unusual about struts, Motorcraft part numbers change depending on the wheel size. Not so with aftermarket. It almost as if the Motorcraft struts were "tuned" to the actual suspension of each specific car.

Seriously, I would go with the Motorcraft blower. But its nothing to replace, perhaps 15 minutes, depending on how fast you drink beer. Ok, enough of the hilarity, here's a "weak" video on how to change, drop a cover, pull the glove box and drop the motor/fan assy by removing three screws. On a scale of 1 to a six pack - 1 beer. (Of course your wife and kids don't need to know that, could get you out of a honeydo list if you.play it right). PS, shop around, I just picked a couple of examples at random. You might be able to get a better buy on Ebay. (But if you do go aftermarket, I would stick to what's avaliable on Amazon).

If you go aftermarket as Brucifer recommended this video will help understand what's involved.

My guess would be the blower motor as it will run after being manually started. If it was a blower resistor, it would not work on the lower speeds but ok on high. Faulty resistor usually are not intermittent, but blower motors are. Aftermarket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041TGN2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501439967&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2008+ford+edge+blower+motor&dpPl=1&dpID=413CzAwemtL&ref=plSrch Personally I will only use Motorcraft parts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V52FDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501440309&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2008+ford+edge+blower+motor+Motorcraft

Sounds like a spring bearing mount is frozen (corroded) and not turing when you make s turn. This allows the spring to buildup tension, and when high enough, the spring jumps in its mounting. Makes a loud clunking sound as it snaps from point-to-point in its mount. Does it sound like this?

Could add a site like this to your search. https://www.carmax.com/

So what's all the big fuss over Le Fourd engine parfume?

Excellent write up. Looks good as well.

The short answer is yes. But I would recommend a complete package as you will need additional devices to properly install a new unit. This package has a reconditioned head unit, GPS antenna, navigation disk and instructions for $800. And they will pre-program the radio to your VIN before shipping it to you. (To use certain additional features such as talking on your cell will driving, you may need to install a microphone or cables). If you decide to go this route, please follow up and write about it here; and let everyone know how it went. (Note: page is slow to fully load, allow it to completely load before proceeding). https://www.infotainment.com/collections/all/products/2007-2008-ford-edge-gps-navigation-radio

Let's see now, the drain plug is located on the bottom of the PTU, the syringe squirts the lube up into the unit, what keeps it in before you close the drain plug?

Here's another video which goes a little further in explaining the evap system

Dirt and gunk can build up in the rails making it very hard/slow to close. You could try cleaning and relubing the rails using MacFordEdge youtube video.

^agree 2x. Try charging the battety and see if it will hold a charge. Only way I can see the connection with the radio is, something got hooked up wrong and it's draining the battery.

Here's a Youtube video showing how to repair this on a Ford Flex. (Think they are simular). Believe I read that the cable either gets unhooked or has streached.

Not really sealed, but no drain was provided on domestic vehicles. There's an open vent and fill plug. I have mine pumped out and refilled at my local Ford dealer. On my 09 Lincoln requires the fluid be changed anytime there's a leak, whenever the PTU has been in water or every 3000 miles when pulling a trailer or hard acceleration, if a non-synthetic fluid is used. Same as the rear axle. Figure I'll have the fluid changed every 30k just to be safe.

Yes, sorry for making a blank statement. I was thinking of the windshield. In florida, nothing below the windshield mirror and no more than 28% on the side windows. Here's a link for a state-by-state window tint requirements. https://www.windowtint.com/pages/state-window-tint-laws

Enclosed is the parts diagram for a 2011 Vista roof. Don't know if it will help, perhaps it's a simple part replacment. https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.sectionDiagram&vehicleID=313513&diagram=MS11485

Ford makes a set to fit the front on the Sport, not a perfect fit, but it will keep mud off the doors. However, there's nothing available, OEM or aftermarket, for the rears. Just too difficult a shape to match. There was a member here that posted the he had bought a rear set to fit a SEL (if I remember correctly) and had hand-trimmed them to the contour of his Sport. He never posted pictures however. I believe that that's your only option for rear mud flaps on a 2015+ Sport.

You mentioned replacment, did they replace with new, rebuilt or junk yard?

Don't know where their located, but https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Wiring-Harness-Relay-Included/dp/B00XM107FC

You may be able to find the sheet metal parts you need from a local parts yard. Just enter your needs and the request will go out to all members. Every parts yard that has the parts, door, fender, etc. will respond to you. http://www.automotix.net/

The one that took a rock, you could claim it under your auto comprehension policy.

DANGER, Will Robertion, DANGER. (a.k.a B9 and/or Robie The Robot from Forbidden Planet) If I were you, I would change the lubricant in your PTU immediately. Several here feel that a single case of overheating the PTU is sufficient to turn the lubricant to a thick goo and this causes the failure of the PTU. If your not convinced, at least pull a few drops from the case and check it, see if it's black or thickened.

I don't know about Mac's tires, but on mine, it happened on all four of mine with on month. It's the tires. Several on Amazon have had the same problem with low milage and going hard.

Also check for a second screw at the other end of the moulding. (Hinge side).