enigma-2

Audio amplifier connector? Here's how one company adds trailer wiring (FYI). https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2014-ford-edge-118515.aspx

groan (remember the "greasy kids stuff" ads)?

I recently ran across a detailed description of what was causing the carbon buildup of the backside of the valves. "One concern thats becoming a problem with all GTDI engines is excessive carbon buildup on the back side of the intake valves. This causes hard-to-diagnose misfires, especially when the engine is cold, and can also create a rough, rolling idle. One reason for this is valve timing. When the exhaust valve opens on the exhaust stroke under boost conditions, the intake valve opens slightly to allow forced air into the combustion chamber. This push of forced fresh air aids in the evacuation of exhaust from the cylinder. During this overlap, a small amount of combustion gases can sneak past the intake valves, causing carbon buildup on the back side of the valves. The direct fuel injection worsens this condition because fuel isnt sprayed directly onto the intake valve to clean it off; direct injection sprays fuel directly into the combustion chamber. Another contributor to this issue is the PCV system. Besides the normal crankcase vapors that enter the intake from the PCV system, these vapors can also enter the intake from the turbocharger. A check valve in the PCV vacuum hose diverts crankcase vapors to the turbochargers low-pressure hose under boost conditions. This prevents the backflow of pressurized intake air through the PCV valve and into the crankcase. The only sure way to diagnose excessive carbon buildup is to look at the valves with a borescope. So if youre diagnosing a phantom misfire on a GTDI engine, especially if its worse cold and after eliminating the usual suspects, break out the borescope."

My guess is that this is the selonoid that controls to flow of oil to the front or back side od the VCT actuator. It's controlled by the PCM. The operation on the selonoid causes a differential change in oil pressure to rotate the camshaft actuator to an advanced or retarded position.

You used hair cream on the coil sockets? Did you use Rogaine on the top of the spark plugs?

Here's a link to the 2017 Ford Edge "advisory" recall: https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2017/03/02/ford-issues-safety-compliance-recall-in-north-america.html

I'm just guessing as to why you ran through pads at 18k miles, but it's possible that it was a combination of your winter and your driving and the automatic traction system or stability system. Those systems can really heat the brakes up while working properly. Often you never notice them. Other possibilities include the proportioning valve and as you suggested, lack of grease on the tabs. Usually it's the fronts that go first. How are the front pads?

Must have been a ground loop caused by a weak ground connection. You probably found the cause. If it starts to come back, do same thing only spray the connectors with some CRC Electronic Contact Cleaner (or equal).

Indiana. Was in the upper 60's here last week. Back up to 81° here today. Wish you fellows from Mississippi would stop sending your mosquitoes up here. We seem to have enough. Send them to the folks in Arizona, believe they could use some more. Course you won't find any in California. They routinely burn the state down to get rid of them.

These two videos may be help. The first is to determine if the problem is a wiring problem or if it's the PCM. The second is the method used to remove the PCM to send it in for repair.

Have you tried a reinitialization procedure? "Start the engine. If sunroof open, then press and hold the glass close switch until the glass is in CLOSED position. Release, repress and hold the glass close switch (for at least 10 seconds). - The glass panel will move toward the front hard-stop and stall. - The shade panels will move toward their front hard-stops, stall, move back a few millimeters, then forward. - After the shade panels have finished moving backward and forward, release the glass close switch. Press and hold the glass close switch. -The glass and shades will fully open together. Then, the glass will close first and then the shades will return to the fully CLOSED position. When the shades have stopped moving, release the glass close switch. Initialization is now complete. Verify successful initialization by carrying out one-touch open, one-touch close, one-touch vent (glass) and one-touch open for the shades. - If roof opening panel does not operate correctly, repeat Steps 2 through 5. NOTE:The glass close switch must be held during the entire initialization process or the sequence will be aborted and the roof will remain in a de-initialized state. Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path". The only way to manually close the Visa Roof is to remove the roof liner and manually pull the cord to shut it.

Water pump, timing chain guides?

Try making a small cardboard baffle (perhas using a empty toilet paper roll) (painted black). Just something temporary to test this hypothesis.

Don't believe that there is any scheduled maintenance required. Abut once a year I'll spray the mechanism with silicone spray lubricant.

Pull fuse #:51 in the battery fuse panel.

Sounds like its the front brake pad thickness tab. When the pads get too thin, this tab starts to touch the rotating brake rotor, to make you it's time to put on new pads. It only happens when you are NOT braking. Goes away when you step on the brakes.

That have a code for not having the dipstick all the way down?

Just looked at my Sirius page. I have Siris for the radio and SiriusXM for Travel Link.

WAIT! Your dealer is across the street and you take a shuttle home?

^^^ like Prinzll said. Id rather drink Starbucks and eat popcorn while watching soap operas in the waiting room. :happy feet:

Have you used a clay bar on it? Really makes a difference before finish.

I went Chinese replacement headlamp off Ebay on my wife's convertible and it works perfectly. Been a year and no hazing. Fit perfectly.

It's just +12 volts off the delayed power source. Operates exactly as the radio, once the car is in run, power comes on and stays on until you open a door (or it times out in 20 minutes). On mine it's a radar detector, but it would work perfectly for a camera as well. You can order a specific length and connection plug. (Think I'm running 9" harness with .08" taps, inline fuse and with RJ-11 connector.) Simular to this: MirrorTap MTX Series Radar Detector Power Cord With 2 Amp In-Line Fuse, Military Grade Taps, RJ11,10" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1XF4XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tApIzbBZ2FR88 (Beats routing a wire all the way to fuse panel, turns on anf off automatically and easy to remove when you sell).

Almost sounds like there's light spillover from the taillights. Light shinning on the lens may be fooling it into turning down the gain. Could testbthis by fashioning a baffle of sorts to see if that's the problem.

If you suspect that your instrument panel is malfunctioning, you can put it into a diagnostic mode and read any codes stored. It may be different on different models and years, but on my 2009, i enter the diagnostic mode by turning the key off, then hold both the RESET and SETUP buttons and then turn the key to RUN. Instrument cluster starts in Diagnostic Mode. From there you push the SETUP button to cycle through all of the various readings. What your looking for is the CDC screen. Record the codes it recorded and take it to your dealer. (There's a LOT of screens, so don't give up too soon). I believe on those who have the push button start, you push the START button without placing your foot on your brake to enter the run mode.