enigma-2

"Up to 82% increase in airflow". <shock> So how are they achieving this? By being more porus, I would guess. And if it's more porus, it doesn't trap the smallest of particles, those that will eventually scour the cylinder walls and pollute the oil faster. So exactly how is this filter better than OEM, where Ford has spent an abnorment amount of time studying the best filter to use, to offer the best compromise between engine protection, fuel economy, oil pollution and performance? And they claim justification for charging $62 for their filter, that you can wash it out and reuse it. Three times! First of all that's about the same price as using 3 OEM filters, that you simply throw away. Then there's the questionable use of mechanically cleaning a filter and reusing it. Does the very act of cleaning weaken the substrate? Are you certain to remove all the particles of grit? How much degretation has taken place through use and cleaning? I've said it before, you cannot get better (all things considered) than the OEM filter. And K&N filters were designed for racing, not street use. They will work, so will removing the air filter and running without one. (But at what cost)?

Don't think that works on a 14 though. Have to look under the dash or have the dealer read it with a computer.

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

????

Years ago I worked in the city. Everyday at lunch I would walk to a local coffee house for lunch and have to cross an alley. One day an ambulance was waiting to exit the alley and the fool driving hit the horns, (ambulances around here have train horns mounted to clear traffic). I was less than ten feet away. Without missing a beat, I fell to the ground, grabbed my chest and began screaming in pain. (I'm an older fellow). I rolled once and the looked at the terrified driver and started gasping. He jumped out of the ambulance and ran to me, no longer laughing about his prank. Totally panicked. I grabbed him by the collar and pulled his face close to mine and whispered "got ya back". Got up a walked away. Looked back and he was still kneeling in the alley, on the sidewalk, totally stunned, wondering what had happened. I'm still laughing about it. Ah, it's the little things in life ..... What do you need a loud, annoying horn for anyway? My MKX horns piss off everyone just fine.

Sitting on the patio, warm night in Indiana, drinking golden margaritas, eating spamakopia, have a fire in the fire pit and listening to Patsy Cline. I'm reminded of a poem I read as a child, "God's in his heaven and all's well in the world".

Yes, you can program a couple of codes, one for you, one for your wife. Depending on which code is entered will determine which seat & mirror setting is configured.

I believe it usually means that one of the doors are not closed. Possibly a door switch is going bad.

There should be a card with the code on it in a plastic pocket in the back of your owner's manual. If it's missing, it's located on a sticker under the instrument cluster. The code is a 4 digit code and also has a barcode on the sticker.

Believe that export models sold in desert regions also have drain plugs along with specific drain intervals.

Can't identify the code. The service manual I have is for 09 &10 and all of the codes start with "B" (nothing starts with "A"). Perhaps someone else can chime in who has a service manual for the 08.

Why don't you try running the HVAC module in the diagnostic mode and see if it spits out any DCT's. Press the OFF button and DEFROST buttons simultaneously, then release and press the AUTO button within two seconds. You should see flashing bars and then the DTC codes will appear. On mine (just did thes to make certain that I had the right combo) I am seeing 88 88 as the codes (no codes displayed,my system is working perfectly. 88 88 is end code). Afterwards, press the DEFROST button to put the system back into opetation. It sounds to me as if the HVAC Control Module is at fault. (Did you check all fuses related to the HVAC system)?

FYI http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-camry-5th-6th-gen-2002-2006-2007-2011-2nd-gen-solara-2004-2008/405024-dangers-benefits-cheap-knockoff-replica-i-e-xxr-rota-etc-please-read.html#/topics/405024?page=1

On my 2016 MKX loaner the I noticed the fan & radio turn down when the phone rang and turned itself back up when I hung up.

You have tried so much already, I would guess that your problem is actually a non-functioning GPS module. I suggest checking fuse #26 (5a) to see if it's blown.

Here's the history of why they resended the code back in 2013. (And why it's still confusing as to whether it's needed or not). ($200 fine.) https://www.bhwlawfirm.com/license-plate-law-in-texas-front-license-plate/

Taxi cabs are known to rely on oil testing rather than rules-of-thumb, for determining when to change oil. (After all, when running a fleet of cars unnecessary maintenance can be the difference between profit and loss). Am oil tester isn't really all that expensive, such as the one in thw URL below. Couple of drops on the sensor and you know the real condition of your oil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HBAG9AC/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X7DS89R60GV23HA1WMJ6&dpPl=1&dpID=61C02MWRsHL

Pfffff. Fighting Irish could kick to snot out of either team.

Ahhhhhh, that can be taken, ummm no, not going to go there.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22452-abs-tone-ring-repair-fault-code-c0226c0222/?fromsearch=1

Heh heh, was thinking the noise might be traced to a failing water pump dumping coolant into the oil along with defective timing chain guides.

Tree sap, as bad as it is on glass, is even worst on the paint of your car. It's important to get it off the paint as soon as possible. The following URL's may be helpful in understanding what's involved. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-remove-sap-from-a-car http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/you-can-use-hand-sanitizer-to-remove-tree-sap-from-your-1778908321 Nail polish remover to remove sap on glass: http://lifehacker.com/5903634/get-sap-off-your-cars-windshield-with-nail-polish-remover .

"Right" as you are facing the engine or right when sitting the drivers seat? Just to rule it out, check your oil and see if it still looks good.

Sap is extremely difficult to remove once dryed. There are professional treatments that can be applied to windshields and will greatly reduce the difficulty in removing sap and road grime. (I had this done on a 1974 Chevett and was well worth to cost). Just Google "windshield coatings "

From the owners manual "Your vehicle is equipped with the Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor system, which displays a message in the information display at the proper oil change interval. This interval may be up to one year or 10000 miles (16000 kilometers)." Personally I follow the information in my OM (give or take) as I do a lot of short drives and question whether the oil ever gets hot for long enough periods to burn out the condensation and whatnot. [added after] Mine is every 5000 miles or every 6 months. So for you and your warranty, you can do either, monitor OR miles. Both are acceptable.