enigma-2

Ouch. Remind me not to piss you off. lol

I had to do an update through my local dealer, didn't want to, but no choice. Asked the service agent and he said it was because they also had to update certain other systems before the Sync update, and that wasn't possible through the usual update process. The $120 may not be for just a simple update.

I may be off base as I only have the schematic and manuals for 2009, 2010, but I believe it would be similar in yours. Power comes from fuse #45 in the Battery Junction Box (BJB). It powers the heated mirror relay. As your rear window is heating ok, we can assume this fuse is good. The power through the relay is controlled from fuse #28 in the Battery Junction Box (commonly called the fuse box in the engine compartment). -Start by checking fuse #28 (refer to your owners manual to make certain that this is still the correct fuse). -If it's ok (verify by replacing with an identical fuse known to be good) then it really comes down to the relay or wiring. I would guess the relay before the wiring, unless your or someone else has messed with the wiring. (In my 09 MKX, the relay is #29 in the BJB.)

Here's a good discussion which covers all aspects of how the deposits form and ard removed: http://www.aa1car.com/library/intake_valve_deposits_gdi_engines.htm (Does not address turbos however).

As candor in stated, lots to choose from on Ebay. One example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262708571120

Here's a picture of the plastic clip. If you look just below the rear windows in the cargo area, there's a small gap between the interior cover and shell. This hook is inserved into this gap (tight fit) and then turned 90°. The half the clips is like an "S" hook, the other end is a couple od bars where the loop strap interconnects with.

I felt the same way about the guy who came out and pumped out my septic tank. He said he's used to it and besides, there's a "side benifit"? Now I'm picturing a sewer and saugage connection, but he reminds me that he's constantly exposed to large amounts of bacteria, viruses and whatnot, his immune systems has grown so strong that he never gets sick. Glad you found a good source for changing the fluid. Price certainly seems fair. How often are you going to change?

I have the soft cover (2009 MKX, retractable cover not offered as OEM). Anyway, with this cover it attaches to the sides with small plastic clips that are worked between the plastic interior side covers and exterior side shell of the vehicle. Like a hook, you slip them into the gap and turn 90°, making them perpendicular to the length of the car. The cover hooks to hooks on these "pins".

Can't see a phone interference with the stability system, but ?? My initial guess is it was happening at idle and not on the highway, a faulty ABS module, esp if there is no check engine light and no codes. If a cell phone was interfering with the car's electronics seems to me this would have popped up years ago.

Sounds dangerous. One good pothole and you could snap a tie rod end while driving.

Several YouTube vids on this. I've not tried it, but others have reported using a 12 pt. 7/8" - 1/2 drive socket on the square portion on tbe top of the valve and turn ccw. The socket will not stay connected to remove, but you can use a needle nose for that.

.

FS-106 http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MOT0/FS106/02700.oap?year=2012&make=Ford&model=F-250%252BSuper%252BDuty&vi=1501956&ck=Search_02700_1501956_-1&pt=02700&ppt=C0023 http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/122089664705?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D177782895069_324272%2526itemid%253D122089664705%2526targetid%253D284532643188%2526rpc%253D0.07%2526rpc_upld_id%253D106638%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F122089664705%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9016241%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D753747355%2526adgroupid%253D48029464708%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-284532643188%2526gclid%253DCjwKEAiAoaXFBRCNhautiPvnqzoSJABzHd6h21aSFBAcsuifCuwsflgrnrb90cW55PVzxT63D4yAARoC-erw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1170839222382&ul_noapp=true FS-104 https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FS-104-Seat-Filter/dp/B001CA9CN8 http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=192003823126&category=33659&pm=1&ds=0&t=1487571574271 In all fairness, while looking for an online reference for both filters, I did find some retailers that were advertising the FS-104 but stating that it did not contain any of the cotton gauze material. (See ref above). It's possible (or more likely probable) that the filter with the cotter gauze is old stock and has been replaced with 106 (even if it's still on a 104 box). Personally, I would not recommend anyone need replace these filters. The gauze filter can be easily cleaned and the one with holes isn't even a filter, just a guard for the fan blade.

If your running 21"wheels, others have stated that these really ride hard.

I have an 09 MKX and it's as quiet as anyone could want. I usually get a 2016 Edge or MKX as a loaner from my local Ford dealer and they are even more quiet. So the problem is not the design of the Edge. It could be several other things, tires are always first and that's the path I would have taken as well. Next is bearings. It's always possible that a wheel bearing didn't get greased properly at the manufacturer and is now making itself known. (I had a left front bearing replaced on my wife's Sebring Convertible and had to have the exact same bearing replaced 1-1/2 years later. I don't deal with this dealer any longer, cheap parts, no warranty on their repairs). Had an Escort years ago during the age of high gas prices. Got rwsdy to give to my son when buying a new car and they found it needed a new engine mount. They used a NAPA mount and I didn't make it 5 miles before I was back at service demanding they put in Motorcraft. It sounded like I was driving in an old pickup truck, off the farm. Horrible noise. New Motorcraft mount and all quiet again. Wouldn't think a simple motor mount could make a car undrivable (from noise) but the NAPA mount was made from very hard rubber and amplified the sounds of the engine and road noise. Highly unusual but any part can fail, even in the first year. I would ask to have the technician take a ride and ask his opinion. Suggest they raise it off the ground, run the car in gear and listen with a stethoscope. But overall, insist it be found and repaired.

If it's still the same as the older models, you life up on the rear-most section and swing it up. (I popped mine off for easier access, spread edges and pull off). Remove the 5/8" nut and pull wiper arm off shaft. Then reset in new position. Note I was unable to remove my arm when I changed it on mine last month, had to cut the back of the arm off and use a wheel puller as it froze solid to the shaft. Take care you don't put excess pressure on glass.

Deleted

Perhaps this product might be effective as well. http://www.carbrite.com/products/Exterior-Care/Cleaners/Specialty-Exterior-Cleaners/Fallout-Removers/Metallic-Fallout-Remover/

Sorry, I didn't make myself clear. I meant to mount the resovior in the back of the engine compartment and attach a drain connection (perhaps copper tube) so that 'it' extended down to below the engine. The end of the pipe plugged, but accessible, when doing an oil chainge. Point I was so poorly attempting to make was, mounting the can at the back of the engine would make accessing it difficult otherwise. But extending the drain connection to under the engine made draining it readily accessible and it no longer mattered where the actual can was mounted.

Due to the limited mounting space available on the Edge & MKX's, I was wondering if it were possible if a catch can couldn't be mounted in a remote location and have the drain extended to the underside of the engine compartment? After all, you could then drain it at the same time as the oil drain.

I'm assuming that it just started. Has your neighbor also seen the same condition? Its possible that it may also be industrial fallout. Here in N. Indiana, we get large amounts of acid rain which contains small particles of ash from the steel Mills over near Chicago. This stuff can travel dozens and even hundreds of miles. If you leave it on your car it will etch itself into the finish. Have you thought of trying a paint remover like terpentine? (Very gently and very limited use of course, in a nonexposed location). Thinking there may possibly be a paint shop nearby. Several have suggested a railroad yard. Is there one nearby? (I would think that if so, it would have been a problem for many years).

Sorry to revive an old thread. Many of the op's stated that they were around 100k on mileage. One part that directly affects fuel economy and is subject to milage is the mass airflow sensor. Located just after the air cleaner, it consists of a fine wire element, exposed directly to all of the air entering the engine. Over time (aka miles) it will accumulate a fine film of dirt over the wire. This, in turn will throw off the air flow reading to the computer and directly affect gas milage. To clean it, you unplug the electricsl connector, then pop off the air cleaner housing and spray "mass airflow sensor cleaner" directly on the device. (Never touch the wire as it's very delicate). Use only a cleaner designed specifically for a mass airflow sensor, never anything else. IE https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J19XSA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487399543&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mass+airflow+sensor+cleaner Follow directions on the can, don't get too close. Let dry and spray liberally again. Before reinstalling the housing containing the MAF let it dry completely. High mileage isn't the only thing that affects the sensor. If your not using an OEM air filter, you may be allowing fine dirt to bypass the filter (a slight gap anywhere around the filter seal is sufficient) will cause the MAF to get coated faster. (Just can't beat Motorcraft filters). It's especially true if your using an oiled air cleaner, as the oil will lightly coat the wire and throw off the sensor. If you use these, remember to clean the MAF regularly.

Bee pollen. (At least that's what researchers in Southern California found). http://articles.latimes.com/2007/oct/31/autos/hy-wheels31

That's really surprising. But I suppose they have their reasons. I called twould local shops and both had no problems in sucking out the old fluid and pumping on new. Eventually went with my local Ford service. (Service agent told me they couldn't do it, had him call up the actual technician and he was the one who said no problem.) My local dealer found my seal leaking around 84k, had them replace the seal and fluid change. The dealer told me it was common for my milage and had caught it early.

You may not be able to recoup what you put in the brakes. I would price it about 5% under local lot price (normal selling price) and then let them talk me down. You might get top dollar if you have it detailed. $250 for the detail could easily allow you you ask an additional $1000. Nothing sells better than clean and shinny.