enigma-2

Had something similar in my 09 MKX. It turned out to be the bearings in the fan motor were going dry and making weird sounds. Intermittent. Think the fan runs on low, whether a/c on or not. I was able fix it by pulling out the motor (takes 5 minutes tops, remove 3 screws and it pops out) and spraying some WD40 into the bearings (top and bottom). So far its been good for three years.

How about these? Alla Lighting PG20/4 Base 12188NAC1 PSY24W LED Bulbs Car Front Turn Signal Lights Bulbs Replacement, 6500K Xenon White https://a.co/d/6O5RW3l

Thought the recall was a software patch that downloaded and installed automatically? What other problems are you having?

For #1, try changing the battery. I found our local grocery store has these batteries much cheaper than the drugs store. The transmitter should operate anywhere in the car, even in a purse or pant pocket. A weak battery may need to fall back to the RFID system, which is passive, bypasses to fob battery and needs to IA to be real close to the transceiver. #2, see #1. #3. Lot of money to change over. Consider if you really need it. Could just live with it for a couple of months and reevaluate. You really don't "need" it. But you may just "want" it.

? Ever think you'd be happy about paying over $500 for a rear view mirror? ?

After the update, and before the restart, did you wait 3 minutes? Did the display state "system updated" after the restart? Is there a down arrow on upper right if screen? If you intend to do the upgrade again, this is the proper procedure: 1. Remove the flash drive. 2. Perform a master reset. 3. Turn the vehicle off and open the driver side door. 4. Once radio turns off, close the door and wait 5 minutes. 5. Start the vehicle and insert the flash drive. 6. Wait until the update starts.

This video may help you in changing the battery in the proximity key fob:

As this occurred after a fender-bender, its possible that it could be a wiring problem, possibly the connector. If the connection and wiring look good (no pinched wires, torn insulation, corroded connector, etc.), a new sensor is only about $20-$25. Any codes stored?

Well, that's clear as mud. Another clear and concise example of Ford's outstanding description of exactly what equipment they put in their cars.

6 months? Ummmmm. Motorcraft or Chinese aftermarket?

Sounds like a dragging brake shoe. (Had one on my 56 vicky that sounded like that). Don't know which way the starr wheel is turned, try taking the drum off and do a visual. As it seems to stop after you adjust the drum brake, I'd focus on the adjuster mechanism to start. It may not be holding the adjustment. (Again on my 56, corrosion had frozen the adjuster and the shoes would work themselves back too tight.) As its a 2010, think I'd also try new brake shoes (passenger side is probably worn past limits anyways). Basically simple system. Check cables controlling brakes and adjuster. My bet is corrosion has frozen one or the other.

Sorry, misread your post as shock meaning strut. (Duh). It may sound silly, but have you checked is there's anything lose in the spare tire well. I used to carry my trailer hitch ball and bracket back there and had a simular rattle when going over bumps. Possly the spare tire and jack assembly is loose?

You check ebay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274023513733?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wImpftUJSky&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Dealers use rivets. Several responders used self-taping stainless steel hex-nut screws. (After you drill the holes). https://a.co/d/bARSYJu

OMG ....

Not for nothing, this is a five year old thread and the OP has moved on.

Sounds like they didn't change the strut bearings. When they get old, the stick. This causes tge spring to "jump" rather than turn with the bearing. Causes this clunk, clunk sound.

Ford Boss Me

I *hate* wire nuts. Especially in a car. In the future, I'd recommend using heat shrink connectors with built-in solder. You slip in stripped wire each side and use heat gun. Solder melt first, ensuring a good mechanical and electrical bond, followed by heat shrink, shrinking down to enclose connection. Good, easy, fast permanent electrical connection you never need to worry about. (If you don't have a heat gun, a propane cigarette lighter works just fine). haisstronica 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors-Marine Grade Heat Shrink Wire Connectors-Heat Shrink Butt Connectors-Butt Splice Wire Connectors for Stereo,Electrical with Corrosion and Weatherproof https://a.co/d/8LTwntd

One other problem to consider, other users have reported that Chinese clone cards worked properly when first used, then fail after a few weeks. $190? Really? What a ripoff. I had to swallow hard to cough up $150. If you don't need the most current (you don't use your car for employment), I'd skip each year and update ever 2 or 3 years. (Use Google maps to fill in when needed). It's what I did. Know what I mean? Huh? Huh? Huh? .... Hey, hey, you know what I mean? Huh?

Have you seen this video? (Basically, unplug the center speaker and a little poly fill in the sub). Have run a speaker the all-around test to check individual speaker performance?

For some unknown reason, the anti-thief system activated and is refusing to allow the system to go through the start process. There are so many things that can cause this, the only way that you will be able to narrow it down, is to pull codes. As you are having problems doing so, probably best to have the car trucked in to the dealer so he can go through the systematic troubleshooting process.

Here's a link which discusses the subject in detail. In general, less is more. One fellow feels around 35% fill is correct. (Personally I don't buy the thermodynamics aspect in small, low-power enclosures). A small amount of fill should capture most of the reflections and make some improvement of sound. In the end its subjective to the listener. https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/polyfill-the-magic-ingredient.154120/#:~:text=Registered,-Joined Jan 24&text=Fill is good%2C as it,35% fill will sound best.

Great write up. Change the PTU if your is AWD. We drive about 75 around here in rural Indiana as well. Really pisses off the local sheriff, but there's only three of them on duty to cover the entire county so ..... Mine is the Platinum White as well. Looks absolutely beautiful in the sunlight. Different shimmers of color waving through the paint. Love it. But lookout when you need to get it touched up at the body shop. Expect to pay 3x cost of plain white. I'm having a scratch repainted in my front bumper cover. Jeesh. The gotta pull the bumper cover off to refinish it properly. (Had the back done couple of years ago). And big rust spot on black strip that runs along side the BAMR. The will only replace the strip (backorder, unknown when) due to being able to warrantee it. Plus have one, tiny, tiny door ding fixed. Think it would be cheaper to put a new engine in the car. You wouldn’t believe how much for paint (no I'm not going to tell you. Hundreds). I needed a new 2009 chrome rim for my MKX last year. The quoted $700 or $800 (don't remember the exact amount). I asked them if they woud order at their cost plus 10%. They did. Never hurts to ask. BTW, I still have a Ford PremiumCARE warranty on my 2009 with 130k miles. Runs out next year. Have always been under Ford warranty. Replaced the PTU, and suspension parts. Stuff adds up. Even a vacuum line break can cost $200-300. (Had it happen). Next time go online and get quote from Levittown Ford. Print it out and take to dealer and get them to match. Save hundreds. Then ask for $0 deductible if you have all service done at their shop. They'll match. (He'll add it on as a separate add-on). Definitely have the plugs serviced around 80-90 k miles. Think I paid ~$650 when I had it done, so the price is online. One of those "pay me know or pay me, more, later" senerios. One way to sneak by on the chrome wheels until you get replacments, is to patch over the pealed areas wil chromed HVAC tape. If done carefully, can't be seen until you get up close. (I fixed road rash on mine using this trick. Really had to see unless your looking for it.)

I believe the OP was talking about updating the Sync system. In reading the remarks off Amazon, I usually start with the 1-star comments. Reading the 5-star comments, where they report that the Chinese card worked perfectly at the beginning. The ones I'm most interested in are the ones that report that it failed after 40 days. Or started resetting the nav system while it was working. You see a lot of people bragging how great something is, just after the bought it. But very few will come back weeks, months or years later and report that the Chineese junk failed and they were out the bucks. Keep in mind your buying something that was made in some Chineese backyard with no quality control. I really hope you A13 cards works over the long run, but you must forgive my skepticism in dealing with Chineese clones.