enigma-2

In the F150, if the air bag warning light malfunctions, it will beep 5 times. (Without a warning lamp, there's no way the system can inform you of a malfunction with the restraint system). A simple way to verify this is to turn the ignition ON and check the cluster. The airbag lamp should illuminate. If it doesn’t, you will receive an alarm of 5 beeps. (Believe it's 5 long beeps for 5x.). Another reason you could get 5 beeps is a fault in the TPMS lamp. Again look at the cluster and see if the warning lamp comes on. If "yes" its not the problem. If "no" lamp, check tire pressure are adjust on all 4 tires. Then get TP.S circuit repaired. (Believe its 5 long beeps over 3x). Neither of these should prevent starting. If it happens again, try leaving the car in ON position, open drivers door and remove key. Then close door and try restart. Or wait until the beeping stops are try again. May be a change if Ford warning to get your attention and not just ignore. (With cluster warning lamps out, there's no way the car can get your attention that there is a problem).

Now, that's interesting. Didn't know there was a 15.5" screen.

Bent rim? Usually shows up at higher speeds. As the vibration isn't in the steering wheel, its probably coming from the rear.

Is that the Ford Sparkle Silver WP-20-00-61 color?

They sent me a letter stating that replacments were in stock. Called dealer and he scheduled 6 weeks out. Asked why, and he said they only have one technician who's certified on air bags and they had to order stock. (Lincoln thinks dealers keep these in stock). (I sort of wonder if this particular technician moves between local dealers, and is only in once a week or so).

With the information Haz supplied, you can pull the LED and see if something like this will work. (Clear of course, not amber, but you get the idea). Read the information in the description. All comes down to the specific base for the LED. https://www.ebay.com/itm/174261350606?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=TzqfdFWNTBi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Did you check the fuses? Try checking fuse #22 (10a) in the engine fuse box. It controls the compressor clutch. No clutch engagement, no cooling. Its been so hot lately, the car's a/c may have over pressured when you started and blew the fuse. (Just thinking outloud).

This may or may not be useful, but would an universal assembly work? It's cheap enough ($17.99 USD) and as it ships from China, should also ship to Brazil. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384633138493?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=m_gmg0f6sps&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Threads are corroded. Try spraying some penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster) on the threads and allow time for it to soak in. Tapping sometime helps. https://a.co/d/i14TYX7

Try this. Put the car in accessories mode. Using the information Haz provided (mainly the corrected image), press AND HOLD the on/off switch. While holding it, press the seek down button. HOLD until the system goes into diagnosis mode and the speaker test starts. About 5-10 seconds.

Ford states that the fix costs a little over $1,000. (Replace the entire shifter mechanism). Don't see a LED replacement detail, but worth a try. See attached to remove shifter. https://www.justanswer.com/ford/33558-replace-lamp-gear-shifter-ford-edge.html?r=impact|27795|Online Tracking Link|&clickid=yqi3f5Xq%3AxyIT-2Wt41wdxdNUkD2NpU%3APVzIVE0&aff_sub_id=&aff_sub_id2=l4aplytk0z00b4bt0mj0u&aff_sub_id3=&aff_sub_id4=&chat_text=&irgwc=1

Had the airbag changed out yesterday (06/10/2010). Showed up at 7:45 & was out by 8:15.

As Ben said, also if it happens again, try wiggling the gearshift (possible interlock hickup).

What a great idea. Knowing Ford, what could possibly go wrong? Like press the button and your check engine light comes on, "engine not available" pops up in the information panel, you coast to a stop on the 5 freeway, in afternoon traffic and your car dials the Count Clara's Castle of Conspicuous Courtesans. With your wife sitting in the passenger seat. You know, with "that" look. Kind of reminds me of Ford's Vehicle health report where it sent a complete report of your car to the Ford (Lincoln) website, and when you looked it up it said "nothing to see here, keep moving". Cue the replies ....

See if this helps (simular problem)

The stated purpose is to "protect the bottom part of the car, especially the engine, from water, mud, rocks, and road debris always and from all angles. It also ensures that noise coming from the roadside does not penetrate the interior of the vehicle." About the only thing I can think of is that it may affect the active noise cancelation. Part of it is tuned to cancel road rumble which may get louder without the panels. #mrmikesdeuce we have selected you as our guinny pig. Report back in two weeks as to any negative side effects. lol

The recall for the 2021-2022 Ford Edge is for a blurred image, no image, or a “camera not available” error message.

Shouldn't be a big deal to pull the blower out and check inside the housing for some foreign material. Something got into the duct, probably through the dash vent.

I ?think? the light is triggered when the reservoir gets low on fluid. Peddle going to floor is usually a leaking master cylinder.

Need to pull the codes to figure out where the fault lies. Continuous codes indicate either a shorted or blockage of one of the sensors.

Find out anything yet?

Did you find and fix the initial leak? Putting in a can may have only put a band-aid on the problem. Whatever caused to original leak is still leaking. There are several areas where the system can leak. Putting in dye helds locate the area, as well as using a leak detector (above post). But my guess is the can of refrigerant reestablished the pressures and it subsequently leaked out after it sit for awhile. You can’t properly recharge the system by dumping in a can of refrigerant. The existing refrigerant needs to be pumped out and weighed. Then pumped down under a vacuum and held to prove the system is leak tight. Then the proper anount of refrigerant pumped in. (Label on the underside of the hood tells how much). But first, you can't expect the hold a charge until you find the leak(s). Take it in to a professional and get it fixed properly.

It may still be there, look down from the yellow handle on the backside of the latch. Here's a link to an ebay listing of a compatible latch. Pictures clearly show the backside. The connector is molded into the latch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143091160232?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FeI-rj_XR0m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Plugs should have been changed around 90k. 130k is way beyond reasonable. I'd pull a plug on the easy side and check the gap. The coils coild fry (as well as the ECM) if the gap gets too large. Don't wait too long. (240k is already way over).

It's been discussed here in the past.