enigma-2

For some unknown reason, the anti-thief system activated and is refusing to allow the system to go through the start process. There are so many things that can cause this, the only way that you will be able to narrow it down, is to pull codes. As you are having problems doing so, probably best to have the car trucked in to the dealer so he can go through the systematic troubleshooting process.

Here's a link which discusses the subject in detail. In general, less is more. One fellow feels around 35% fill is correct. (Personally I don't buy the thermodynamics aspect in small, low-power enclosures). A small amount of fill should capture most of the reflections and make some improvement of sound. In the end its subjective to the listener. https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/polyfill-the-magic-ingredient.154120/#:~:text=Registered,-Joined Jan 24&text=Fill is good%2C as it,35% fill will sound best.

Great write up. Change the PTU if your is AWD. We drive about 75 around here in rural Indiana as well. Really pisses off the local sheriff, but there's only three of them on duty to cover the entire county so ..... Mine is the Platinum White as well. Looks absolutely beautiful in the sunlight. Different shimmers of color waving through the paint. Love it. But lookout when you need to get it touched up at the body shop. Expect to pay 3x cost of plain white. I'm having a scratch repainted in my front bumper cover. Jeesh. The gotta pull the bumper cover off to refinish it properly. (Had the back done couple of years ago). And big rust spot on black strip that runs along side the BAMR. The will only replace the strip (backorder, unknown when) due to being able to warrantee it. Plus have one, tiny, tiny door ding fixed. Think it would be cheaper to put a new engine in the car. You wouldn’t believe how much for paint (no I'm not going to tell you. Hundreds). I needed a new 2009 chrome rim for my MKX last year. The quoted $700 or $800 (don't remember the exact amount). I asked them if they woud order at their cost plus 10%. They did. Never hurts to ask. BTW, I still have a Ford PremiumCARE warranty on my 2009 with 130k miles. Runs out next year. Have always been under Ford warranty. Replaced the PTU, and suspension parts. Stuff adds up. Even a vacuum line break can cost $200-300. (Had it happen). Next time go online and get quote from Levittown Ford. Print it out and take to dealer and get them to match. Save hundreds. Then ask for $0 deductible if you have all service done at their shop. They'll match. (He'll add it on as a separate add-on). Definitely have the plugs serviced around 80-90 k miles. Think I paid ~$650 when I had it done, so the price is online. One of those "pay me know or pay me, more, later" senerios. One way to sneak by on the chrome wheels until you get replacments, is to patch over the pealed areas wil chromed HVAC tape. If done carefully, can't be seen until you get up close. (I fixed road rash on mine using this trick. Really had to see unless your looking for it.)

I believe the OP was talking about updating the Sync system. In reading the remarks off Amazon, I usually start with the 1-star comments. Reading the 5-star comments, where they report that the Chinese card worked perfectly at the beginning. The ones I'm most interested in are the ones that report that it failed after 40 days. Or started resetting the nav system while it was working. You see a lot of people bragging how great something is, just after the bought it. But very few will come back weeks, months or years later and report that the Chineese junk failed and they were out the bucks. Keep in mind your buying something that was made in some Chineese backyard with no quality control. I really hope you A13 cards works over the long run, but you must forgive my skepticism in dealing with Chineese clones.

Sad part is the 1/2" drive set doesn't have the 11 mm either ?

Dear Ford Service Info/FordEtis User, In April 2022 Ford communicated to FordEtis Independent Operator users to advise of the migration of FordEtis Online to the new Ford SERVICE Info site for the additional and up and coming new features. Ford will notify users when the new Ford SERVICE Info Site migration is complete. Please register or login to the site to view all products and subscriptions that are available to purchase within in the Ford Service Info Site at www.fordserviceinfo.com Additional New Features (additions Since April 2022) The following new services are available in the New Ford Service Info (FSI) site and Professional Technician System (PTS). Ford Service Info Site (FSI): Free Resources The Free Resources page are available on the front Home Page for the following: Routine Service Check Sheets Digital Service Record (DSR) Professional Technician System (PTS): Planned New Features Connected Vehicle access is enabled for the UK market. Other European Markets enabled for Connected Vehicle Access are Portugal, France, Czech Republic, Denmark, Ireland, Norway, Spain, Netherlands, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Poland, Finland, Belgium, and Luxembourg. Other European Markets to be enabled in due course. Routine Service Check sheets were implemented July 2022. Digital Service Record (DSR) to be implemented 31st August 2022. Digital Service Record (DSR) Instructions For Existing FordEtis DSR Users Without a Ford Service Info Account Within the next week, DSR within ETIS will be decommissioned. If you are still using DSR within FordEtis, please take the following actions (a detailed description of each step is shown in the attached IMT DSR Introduction PDF). Important: If you are using the new FSI System, please do not create records in ETIS anymore as all data will be transferred from ETIS to FSI! Please register in FSI: FordServiceInfo.com , If you do not have an FSI Account. After successful registration, login and open the DSR option within Free Resources within FSI (See attached PDF), you will then be automatically routed to the following screen below. As you previously had access you will need to click on the ‘here’ link in the screen below: You will then be asked to fill in the following form below if you had a previous DSR account within FordEtis Online: You can find the data for the first two fields highlighted in yellow in your FordEtis account under TAX DETAILS: Your Etis username is the name which you enter at your Etis log in. You will receive an answer via E-mail as soon as your access was accepted. If we do not find any match, we will reject your access and you will receive an email with additional instructions to follow as a new user. For Existing FordEtis DSR Users with a Ford Service Info Account Please login to FSI and follow from point 2. Go To DSR in the attached IMT DSR Introduction PDF. All New Un-Registered FSI Users Please follow from the start in the attached IMT DSR Introduction PDF document. Note: For all Legal Representatives that have Employee accounts, please notify your employees of this feature, and follow the above instructions and the attached PDF document. If you need help, please contact the DSR Helpdesk fordhelp@datagroup.de. Note: This does not affect users of the WLTP calculation tool. Regards Ford Motor Company

Well, as long as we're kicking a dead horse; (cheap but good enough for occasional use). https://hftools.com/app69546

If one of the low beam headlight bulbs have a problem, there is a symbol that looks something like a gear. (But I believe it's amber in color). The color of the symbol indicates the urgency of the warning/caution. Blue is an information color. About the only symbol that's blue is the high beam indicator.

"The DTC sets in continuous memory and on-demand if the voltage supplied to the ABS module is less than 10 volts, if there is an open or high resistance on the ABS pump motor circuit between the ABS module and the HCU , or if the ABS module is faulted internally." I had a simular issue, finally traced it to the pins on the rear brakes not allowing the rears to apply properly. After they froze, the majority of the braking force was taken by the front pads. Very soft pedal. Also low pedal.

Mirror tap comes with several size pins to fit any mirror connector. During the installation, you choose the correct size (there's a chart on their website). You make have bought one of the Chinese knockoffs. To secure the harness, it also comes with a plastic wire tie. I found It's more than adequate to secure the harness, including having my radar detector's windshield mount fail; causing the detector to drop.

According to the charts, on the 2010, the center bore is 70.5 mm & on the 2013 it's 63.4 mm.

This YouTube video may be of help

Will this change your tune?

If you still have the piece knocked loose, drop it in water and see if the plastic sinks or not. ABS sinks in water (specific gravity: 1.06), polypropylene floats (specific gravity: 0.946).

Or mask it off and spray it with a coat of clear coat. (UV-Resistant Clear Gloss) https://a.co/d/guV1ZKJ

They the ones that stop great but produce a lot of dust?

Check with your local Auto Zone. As long as they have Instacode software, they should be able to program. Typ prices vary from $85 to $400 depending on the type of fob purchased.

You go with OEM pads & rotors; or ?? Go with SS nuts, or stay with OE?

Manual states its 18.4 gallons for FWD, 18.5 gallons for AWD. How far off is your gauge?

This reminds me of a simular discussion on p&p connectors discussed back in the spring of 2021. It centered around how to remove the cowling surrounding the mirror and the two (or three) different connectors used because of different mirrors. If I remember there was a five pin (or may have been six pin) and sixteen or eighreen pin. (Tried to use the search function but couldn't find it).

Mix and match the instrument cluster to your hearts content. Just popped up on YouTube today.

Drop by you local dealer and ask them to printout whatever maintenance history on file with Ford. Granted the previous owner(s) may have used non-Ford service, or even did his own; but a well-cared for Ford is usually serviced through the dealership for the first few years, and the service history will be on file.

May be better to take to car to a professional mechanic rather than fire a parts cannon at it. While a O2 sensor can cause this code, so can a faulty catalytic converter, engine misfire, leaking fuel injector, exhaust leak & an O2 sensor that has improper readings (not just voltage output but correct analog readings).

Could always try turning off the lighting in settings and then back on. See if that would reset to module. If not possible a battery disconnect for a minute or two, to reset all modules and let them rediscover their connections.

Try a relearn procedure for the sensor/module. On the HVAC panel controls, press the A/C and Recirc buttons simultaneously, then, release both. Within 2 seconds press the A/C button again.