enigma-2

I used 46526. Probably not a Ford dealer however. As far as where, I usually use the dealer in my area, but never hurts to ask around as to who others in your area recommend. Asking around after church usually gets good advice. I use dealer as I'm still under extended warranty.

On Your Mechanic it's reported that the cost for a Ford Edge CV Axle / Shaft Assembly Replacement is $246 with $151 for parts and $95 for labor. Prices may vary depending on your location. I'd set aside a little more if done at a Ford dealership.

Either way, just went out and tried it. Press both OFF & DEFROST, nothing really happened, then pressed the AUTO button. Display switches, massages the doors, display shows flashing lines and result is displayed. Press blue "cooler" to exit. "88 88" means good.

Ever get a fix for this? If manual a/c, probably the resistor pack or switch. DATC Module if automatic system.

Isn't the drain located in the engine compartment (in the firewall). The smell is probably from mold. Once you locate the drain and clear it, consider spraying kool it into evaporator case. Kills bacteria. Easy to do, just shove a tube through the center vent and spray. https://a.co/d/hkyf6rT Also don't forget to change the cabin air filter.

On my 09 the test is entered by pressing the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within 2 seconds. Running the test resets the module.

At this point I'd jack up the right rear and start shaking everything. Grab the tire at the top and shake it in and out to test the bearing. Shake to shocks and give the a good yank. Shake everything. Twist the rear axle (if AWD) to test the inner works of the axle. (BTW, you mentioned "shock" singular. Shocks are always changed in pairs).

Here's a troubleshooting process published by Apple on connecting. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203412

Assume your thinking of the AWD version. (Would not advise the FWD version). Specified ground clearance for a 2012 Ford Edge is 20 cm. Switching to 22" tires would help some, (especially if the car your thinking of has stock 17" tires) and there are lift kids available.

Ford tech talks about the update problem.

This one? Philips 12071B2 Light Bulbs Glass Base WY21W Pack of 2 in Blister Pack https://a.co/d/7brOrGe

Do you have access to a code reader? (If not, should be able to a local auto parts store). Faulty LED circuit should set a code.

You guys realize that this are cars, not trucks, right? These are CUVs not SUVs).

Believe there's either two or three depending on whether its a standard system or automatic temperature controlled. Try resetting the blend door actuator and see if it helps. Start by removing the fuse that provides power to the HVAC system. Then start the car and run the AC system for about two minutes. (This requires the system to reset itself). After two minutes, turn the car off and put the fuse back in.

Here's one, many more on YouTube.

I'd say yes, not too hard. Some actuators are easier to reach than others, so depends on which one is starting to fail. YouTube has videos on changing.

Try a screen reset. Simultaneously press and hold the 'Seek up' and the audio unit 'Power' buttons until the screen goes black. Wait three / four minutes to allow the system to complete the reset. Problem has also been linked to a defective APIM. Ford used to have an extended warranty on it, don't remember if it's still in effect however.

I'd lean towards a blend door actuator that's failing. They tend to make a clicking (or ticking) or droning when they start to fail. Next time you hear it, try changing where the air comes out, that is, switch to defrost position, to activate the actuator. If the sound stops you found your suspect.

Had something similar in my 09 MKX. It turned out to be the bearings in the fan motor were going dry and making weird sounds. Intermittent. Think the fan runs on low, whether a/c on or not. I was able fix it by pulling out the motor (takes 5 minutes tops, remove 3 screws and it pops out) and spraying some WD40 into the bearings (top and bottom). So far its been good for three years.

How about these? Alla Lighting PG20/4 Base 12188NAC1 PSY24W LED Bulbs Car Front Turn Signal Lights Bulbs Replacement, 6500K Xenon White https://a.co/d/6O5RW3l

Thought the recall was a software patch that downloaded and installed automatically? What other problems are you having?

For #1, try changing the battery. I found our local grocery store has these batteries much cheaper than the drugs store. The transmitter should operate anywhere in the car, even in a purse or pant pocket. A weak battery may need to fall back to the RFID system, which is passive, bypasses to fob battery and needs to IA to be real close to the transceiver. #2, see #1. #3. Lot of money to change over. Consider if you really need it. Could just live with it for a couple of months and reevaluate. You really don't "need" it. But you may just "want" it.

? Ever think you'd be happy about paying over $500 for a rear view mirror? ?

After the update, and before the restart, did you wait 3 minutes? Did the display state "system updated" after the restart? Is there a down arrow on upper right if screen? If you intend to do the upgrade again, this is the proper procedure: 1. Remove the flash drive. 2. Perform a master reset. 3. Turn the vehicle off and open the driver side door. 4. Once radio turns off, close the door and wait 5 minutes. 5. Start the vehicle and insert the flash drive. 6. Wait until the update starts.

This video may help you in changing the battery in the proximity key fob: