enigma-2

The 2013 Edge used the map database from HERE maps. They are one of the largest map suppliers in the world and had definitely mapped Arabia. However, I don't think they made maps for the Ford Sync system, for other than the North American market. (Ford specified the format and Here supplied). You could contact them directly and ask. (Perhaps they might know of a foreign supplier that has)? The contact links is: https://ford.navigation.com/cms/page.ContactUs/en_US/FordNA/USD

Did you check the EGR?

Has the Edge ever been lifted or modified? (U-joint angle). Tire/wheel balance (next oil change get Ford TheWorks. They will rotate the tires. See if vibration changes). Is the car AWD? (Bad bearing in the PTU).

What are you reading on the gauges for high and low systems? Any evidence of oil leakage at any connections?

Originally I had a sensor going bad at around the ten year mark. It would stop working. Drove on and it would start up again. At first it only popped up once in awhile, every couple of months. Then became more frequent and took longer to come back. Finally what took 20 minutes or so, took days. At my last tire change, I had new sensors installed. I decided to go Motorcraft. Dealer always uses an aftermarket brand, Chinese, said they have problems in about 1 in 4 with them. Motorcraft are expensive compared to the Chineese junk, but at least no problems in the future. Had a wheel replaced last year, and they reused to Motorcraft sensor but didn't have a new Motorcraft strap in stock. So they used a NAPA strap. That pos broke after a few days and they located a Motorcraft strap at another dealer in an ajoining state. No problems since.

For the 180° view system, you can trigger on the front camera when the car is below 6 mph, by touching the camera button on the audio screen. Lolks like a little movie projector. There are two different views, one for directly in front and the 2nd showing approx 180°.

Wife went out to take the MKX to the store and the battery was dead. Went out and checked it was a nice pile of corrosion was growing over the positive terminal. (Last I checked it, there was only a little touch of green under the battery connector. No big deal). So I poured a can of coke over the pos terminal, disolved the crud then measured the CCA rating. 650 CCA new, battety was now showing 350 CCAs. Getting over 14 volts when running, so nader was good. But 350 is getting a little low. So .... Scheduled to heve a new battery put in today. They put in a Motorcraft 36 month unit, $140 but used my Ford points and got it for free. Plus got 2000 more points for the battery today. Modern version of S&H Green Stamps.

I had this happen to me on my last update. The dealer had to do the update because there were additional hardware updates needed before the Sync update could be loaded. This could only be completed by the service personnel using Ford's database.

About the only thing that comes to mind was discussed here before. One person reported the dealer found it was the "ptu clutch". They repaired his and no more thump. Fwiw, I think most cars have a solf thump when backing up. (Mine included). When I shift into reverse, I wait a second or two for everything to settle down and get rearranged. (Kind of like when I stand up). This is a good article on Ford transmissions. My guess is the reprogramming is a compromise and a soft thump is going to pass an normal. (But I'd at least talk with the Service Manager- not the guy at the counter who makes reservations).

Professional Ford mechanic at s dealership diagnoses coolant loss procedure with codes and pressure test. Borescope shows coolant entering cylinder.

Should also be noted that a Ford/Lincoln dealer will offer the buyer a glass warranty when selling the car. When I bought eack of my extended warranties on my MKX, an optional glass warranty was offered as a separate warranty. When I chose not to take the warranty, I had to initial that I was refusing the coverage. My auto policy warrants glass coverage on my cars under the comp coverage but only if it occurs by accidiential causes (rocks flies up or tree branch, etc. Failure from stress in not covered unless I carry a add-on rider). I would imagine you could replace the glass for 5 bill's or less from a junk yard. (What I'd do).

This is widely discussed over in the F150 forum. Most have the exact same opinion. The basic consensus is to replace the speakers with better and add a powered sub. Here's one fellas post (2013) on what he did to correct the sound: "This is the answer to making it much louder. I went with the best Pioneer speakers and it made a world of difference. For more bass, I added a 6" powered bazooka tube. My system is now very good as compared to stock and I don't think it cost more than $250!" Why not drop by a local audio shop and see what they recommend?

Opps, I believe that your right. Wouldn't do any good to clean one of those.

Pop off the air duct and see if the mass air flow is dirty. Q. Rather than fire off the parts cannon why not run it through the local dealership and get it diagnosed properly? (As you said, you need to depend on getting the car fixed so that it's reliable).

The noise was discussed in this forum. May or may not be your symptom. https://www.fordescape.org/threads/whirring-buzz-sound-after-vehicle-turn-off.54010/

Keep in mind the guy is a certified mechanic at a dealer. Has a lot of great videos. I would imagine there are many different conditions present, gas, driving characteristics, short trips, maintenance, etc. He gives good examples of plugs wearing out at (less than) half the recommended change interval. Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs at 30k and check condition. This would be more important on the 4-banger as plugs fire more often. Years ago, I bought one of the first Toyota Celica's sold in the US. (Truck transporter just pulled into dealer and I bought the car while still on the top rail of the trailer. Paid $2,500). High reving 4-banger. Went through points every 2,500 - 3,500 miles. (Seriously. Got real good at changing). Changed plugs at 12-15k miles.

Interesting video.

Make him lock the price in. (Guarantee not to exceed. Make certain he verifies that he can actually get a replacement as parts are on backorder and dealers get first dibs). Its difficult to believe that the price is so close to where it was a year ago (due to inflation. Considering labor alone ...). Also get it in writing that they are replacing with a new unit, not rebuilt and of the new design. (Ford has replaced the original design with one that has better seals and bearing. Still no drain however). If the center bearing needs replacing, are you doing at the same time?

Looks like the foot activated liftgate was not available on the SEL. Based on the information Haz supplied, a good starting point would be to check to see if the connectors are available at the back of the car. (Did they use a single harness or specific harnesses for model/package)? Then add the sensor strips, module and energize via Forscan on the BCM. No one has done it so you would be the pioneer.

My guess is they're there to create a more streamlined airflow to improve aerodynamics. Others in a BMW forum argue it protects the engine bay from road debris.

Its either the bulb (3757NAK, amber) or wiring. Check the connector at the housing for corrosion. Its not tbe fuse as front flashes. After re-reading, troubleshooting starts with bulb and works back. 1. Bad bulb. (Checked). 2. Corrosion in connector. 3. Break in wiring. Most likely location is where wiring passes under area subject to occupancy. Believe harness serves rear drivers side and crosses over to passengers. Could pull up cargo cover to locate wire. Check visually for break or cut. Or pull passenger light assy anf check wiring in back of assy. Fault will be from where passenger rear splits off and runs over to lamp assy. (As drivers side is working, everything there forward is good). Broken wire crossover or bad connector. Nothing else can be at fault.

Could be wrong and may be model year dependent, but isn't the module part of the control panel? Switch panel? Can't check today, as in hospital. Maybe someone else will chime in.

This PDF procedure does NOT aplly to your 2011, but its official Ford/Lincoln and might offer some insight on a full flush when changing from one coolant to another. (Can't hurt to read). 2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf

2nd post down https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t37232_ds847793

Try these fixes https://appuals.com/android-auto-keeps-disconnecting/