enigma-2

See if this helps (simular problem)

The stated purpose is to "protect the bottom part of the car, especially the engine, from water, mud, rocks, and road debris always and from all angles. It also ensures that noise coming from the roadside does not penetrate the interior of the vehicle." About the only thing I can think of is that it may affect the active noise cancelation. Part of it is tuned to cancel road rumble which may get louder without the panels. #mrmikesdeuce we have selected you as our guinny pig. Report back in two weeks as to any negative side effects. lol

The recall for the 2021-2022 Ford Edge is for a blurred image, no image, or a “camera not available” error message.

Shouldn't be a big deal to pull the blower out and check inside the housing for some foreign material. Something got into the duct, probably through the dash vent.

I ?think? the light is triggered when the reservoir gets low on fluid. Peddle going to floor is usually a leaking master cylinder.

Need to pull the codes to figure out where the fault lies. Continuous codes indicate either a shorted or blockage of one of the sensors.

Find out anything yet?

Did you find and fix the initial leak? Putting in a can may have only put a band-aid on the problem. Whatever caused to original leak is still leaking. There are several areas where the system can leak. Putting in dye helds locate the area, as well as using a leak detector (above post). But my guess is the can of refrigerant reestablished the pressures and it subsequently leaked out after it sit for awhile. You can’t properly recharge the system by dumping in a can of refrigerant. The existing refrigerant needs to be pumped out and weighed. Then pumped down under a vacuum and held to prove the system is leak tight. Then the proper anount of refrigerant pumped in. (Label on the underside of the hood tells how much). But first, you can't expect the hold a charge until you find the leak(s). Take it in to a professional and get it fixed properly.

It may still be there, look down from the yellow handle on the backside of the latch. Here's a link to an ebay listing of a compatible latch. Pictures clearly show the backside. The connector is molded into the latch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143091160232?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FeI-rj_XR0m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Plugs should have been changed around 90k. 130k is way beyond reasonable. I'd pull a plug on the easy side and check the gap. The coils coild fry (as well as the ECM) if the gap gets too large. Don't wait too long. (240k is already way over).

It's been discussed here in the past.

Any chance there could be a leak in the exhaust system? Really need to get up on a lift, run the car and isolate where the sound is coming from. Bad bearings (doesn't sound like a bearing to me, but ... ) can fail when you least expect it.

Does the RPMs change when the sound changes (relating to the shift points of the transmission)?

No loner available? Ask them to rent you an Enterprise car until yours is ready. I've done it twice, but you get the smallest, cheapest, little rattle box. But it's transportation. They will pick you up at the dealer and drop you off again when your car is ready.

Thought I'd jump in here, after I got the financial manger to match the cost of the extended warranty, he wanted $100 for the inspection. Car had just gotten a "TheWorks" oil change. They do a full inspection. Told him, he called service and accepted that as the inspection. (Two birds, one stone). Also ask for him to sweeten the deal. He'll ask what, you say $0 deductable if you have all the service done at their dealership. (I've never been refused). My car is a 2009 MKX and my PremiumCARE extended warranty runs for another year. (Hoping the water pump goes out. They've already replaced suspension parts and PTU).

Gotcha, misunderstood. Probably better to just replace the two parts you need. Shift lever knob, $68 https://www.cheaperfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-automatic-transmission-shift-lever-knob-bv6z7213dd?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9c2hpZnRlci1ob3VzaW5nJmw9MiZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWZvcmQmbz1lZGdlJnk9MjAxNSZ0PXNwb3J0JmU9Mi03bC12Ni1nYXM%3D Dashboard vent assy runs around $40 https://www.cheaperfordparts.com/v-2015-ford-edge--sport--2-7l-v6-gas/body--ducts

Keep in mind that, beside the control module, it could also be a defective motor, relay or speed control assy. Pulling the codes is a first step in isolating where to start.

There are many kits offered online. Here's a jumping off point to get you started. (No experience with this particular company, read any reviews for guidance). https://www.rvinyl.com/Dash-Kits-Ford-Edge-2015.html

Sounds like your battety is getting weak. Check the connections for looseness and corrosion. Check the battery's CCA rating (not just voltage reading as battery can recover cell-by-cell but get sucked down when the engine's running). Sounds like all the problems can be traced to a low voltage condition. If it's around 50% or lower, time for a new, new battery. (I watched Demolition Man last night).

What was that old saying, "Feeling lucky? Update your software". I too agree with Wull2U, sounds like it's a job for the dealer. At the least, it will get documented that it was a certified update that screwed things up.

I just replaced the accordion side shield and structural guide (they're sold together as a kit) on the drivers side of the BAMR. Old one came off easy enough, one yank and it was off. Going back on was another story. Didn't memorize how the old one attached (it was off the track anyway). So what should have taked 15 minutes took a hour. Finally fixed. I had jury rigged old one for a couple of years now. (Had gotten the old one to hold by getting hot in the sun and the forcing it back into shape. But that only held for a month or so). Seems once these shields pop out it's very difficult to get back into place and holding. (Seen where another guy used Gorilla glue to hold his on. Something to keep in mind). Think I paid around ~$68 last year, just got around to installing. Seen where they're now selling for double. $135 for one!

Should we assume that this is a used Edge? And you bought it with these defects? Why not run it by your local dealer and see what they think? Should be able do an alignment if nothings broken or bent. Based on the pictures, doesn’t look right.

"Where does the time go"? Yup!

Definitely check the gap right out of the box. Correct gap is 0.028" to 0.031". (BTW, I doubt that the Ford garage would appreciate you bringing in off-site parts. Yes you can get them a lot cheaper, but they are forced to buy through supply channels and have to pay the price for doing so. They may refuse to use your parts or upcharge you for the difference. Best to call and ask first. Be certain to speak to the Service Manage and get his name should things change when you take it in. This is a sore subject at some dealerships). Re: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=4640&languageCode=en&countryCode=USA&Uid=G1910718&ProcUid=G1910719&userMarket=usa&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False

Try charging the battety. May be low from leaving the hatch open (ran mine low in the same way).