enigma-2

This is widely discussed over in the F150 forum. Most have the exact same opinion. The basic consensus is to replace the speakers with better and add a powered sub. Here's one fellas post (2013) on what he did to correct the sound: "This is the answer to making it much louder. I went with the best Pioneer speakers and it made a world of difference. For more bass, I added a 6" powered bazooka tube. My system is now very good as compared to stock and I don't think it cost more than $250!" Why not drop by a local audio shop and see what they recommend?

Opps, I believe that your right. Wouldn't do any good to clean one of those.

Pop off the air duct and see if the mass air flow is dirty. Q. Rather than fire off the parts cannon why not run it through the local dealership and get it diagnosed properly? (As you said, you need to depend on getting the car fixed so that it's reliable).

The noise was discussed in this forum. May or may not be your symptom. https://www.fordescape.org/threads/whirring-buzz-sound-after-vehicle-turn-off.54010/

Keep in mind the guy is a certified mechanic at a dealer. Has a lot of great videos. I would imagine there are many different conditions present, gas, driving characteristics, short trips, maintenance, etc. He gives good examples of plugs wearing out at (less than) half the recommended change interval. Wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs at 30k and check condition. This would be more important on the 4-banger as plugs fire more often. Years ago, I bought one of the first Toyota Celica's sold in the US. (Truck transporter just pulled into dealer and I bought the car while still on the top rail of the trailer. Paid $2,500). High reving 4-banger. Went through points every 2,500 - 3,500 miles. (Seriously. Got real good at changing). Changed plugs at 12-15k miles.

Interesting video.

Make him lock the price in. (Guarantee not to exceed. Make certain he verifies that he can actually get a replacement as parts are on backorder and dealers get first dibs). Its difficult to believe that the price is so close to where it was a year ago (due to inflation. Considering labor alone ...). Also get it in writing that they are replacing with a new unit, not rebuilt and of the new design. (Ford has replaced the original design with one that has better seals and bearing. Still no drain however). If the center bearing needs replacing, are you doing at the same time?

Looks like the foot activated liftgate was not available on the SEL. Based on the information Haz supplied, a good starting point would be to check to see if the connectors are available at the back of the car. (Did they use a single harness or specific harnesses for model/package)? Then add the sensor strips, module and energize via Forscan on the BCM. No one has done it so you would be the pioneer.

My guess is they're there to create a more streamlined airflow to improve aerodynamics. Others in a BMW forum argue it protects the engine bay from road debris.

Its either the bulb (3757NAK, amber) or wiring. Check the connector at the housing for corrosion. Its not tbe fuse as front flashes. After re-reading, troubleshooting starts with bulb and works back. 1. Bad bulb. (Checked). 2. Corrosion in connector. 3. Break in wiring. Most likely location is where wiring passes under area subject to occupancy. Believe harness serves rear drivers side and crosses over to passengers. Could pull up cargo cover to locate wire. Check visually for break or cut. Or pull passenger light assy anf check wiring in back of assy. Fault will be from where passenger rear splits off and runs over to lamp assy. (As drivers side is working, everything there forward is good). Broken wire crossover or bad connector. Nothing else can be at fault.

Could be wrong and may be model year dependent, but isn't the module part of the control panel? Switch panel? Can't check today, as in hospital. Maybe someone else will chime in.

This PDF procedure does NOT aplly to your 2011, but its official Ford/Lincoln and might offer some insight on a full flush when changing from one coolant to another. (Can't hurt to read). 2009 MKX Cooling System Corrosion.pdf

2nd post down https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t37232_ds847793

Try these fixes https://appuals.com/android-auto-keeps-disconnecting/

See if this diagram helps https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_wiring.html

? great find. Remember when we were kids and they used to put those clear vinyl seat covers (with bubble bumps on the surface)? Dealerships used to offer to increase trade in value (no wear on seats). Course cars only lasted three years back then. Local shol of choice was called "Seat Cover Charlie".

One common area is when one of the underbody closure panels sheads a fastener or two and vibrates against the body. Exhaust heat shields can also cause a buzzing.

Looks like a good warranty. Only other caveat was the requirement that you must provide "valid" date of purchase and milage. The date is easy enough via sales slip but valid milage if installing yourself, is a bugger. But if it lasts for three years, who cares?

Most dealerships use young'ens to do the simple work. Non-certified want-a-be's looking to get into mechanics school sponsored by the dealer. Can't trust any of them. After one visit I popped my hood, checked the dip stick and it was good. As I was replacing it, noticed they never replaced the engine cover. ? Stopped by the dealer couple of days later and demanded to go find my lost engine cover and ... idiot threw it away. Dealer had to buy me a new one. Bought a new 2009 MKX chrome wheel to replace one that had hit a curb. Verified that the idiot replaced it as it still had a green sticker on it. Only problem was, the sit-for-brains replaced the wrong wheel. Service Manager clearly wrote drivers front. Dumb ass replaced drivers rear. Threw old one away. Cost the dealer ~$600-$700. I watched the Service Manager himself go dumpster diving to find the old one. Also found my oil cap loose after one oil change. Hadn't fallen off yet, but probably could have worked its way off eventually. Every couple of years I have them replace the oil drain bolt. Most of these idiots over tightening the bolt thinking the tighter the better. When my mom was alive, she had her Honda serviced at local Honda dealer. Complained it wandered all over after every oil change. As it was a 40 mile drive to her house to fix this, I had enough and stopped by Basney Honda to report the idiot doing the oil changes was over-filling the air pressure in the tires. Service Manager told me that he was filling the tires to the pressure marked on the tires, which is what Honda required. (I imagined his qualifications for the job was his ability to ask "want fries with that"?) We argued for about a half hour. (I dont back down when dealing with idiots). Finally I demanded to speak to the Operations Officer of the dealer. He agreed with the Service Manager. So I called Honda. Next oil change, pressure was as printed on the placard. Stupidity runs all the way to the top in some dealerships. Ford also has excellent Regional Customer Representatives. 800-393-3673. (Dealer knows I have them on speed dial). Had these little battery anti-corrosion rings put on one trip as they found corrosion. Figured they'd clean the terminals and the ringy things would keep it clean. So the idiot put the rings on & never cleaned the terminals however. They did the work over on their dime. Customer click. .... (rainman)

You can retrieve the Keyless Entry Code by following the simple procedure described by Ford (link below). https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/keys-and-locks/securicode-keyless-entry-keypad/how-do-i-find-the-keyless-entry-code-for-my-intelligent-access-key/

You can buy a printed manual (OEM Factory Kit) for $60. (There's a link to get 10% off). (This may be the same manual that was included with your new car). This kit Includes an Owner's manual, case, Quick Reference Guide, Tire warranty Guide, Driving Guide and Supplement. (Note that there's only 3 available). https://www.ebay.com/itm/125177045072?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vB6ickDWSTe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If I remember correctly, you're supposed to preform a procedure to teach to roof its full open/full closed position. I'd try this reinitializion procedure to make certain the motors know what full closed is. This video should help.

I don't believe that SKF offers a warranty on their bearings. (Something to kick around before buying; just in case).

89 in-lbs

I've read that this being reported on some Sony radios. One suggestion was the turn off the surround and play with the discrete stero contrils. The responder noted that these radios have different modes programmed in and may possibly turn off certain controls for the best "experience ".