enigma-2

Something like this? Auto Ventshade AVS 20529 Carflector Dark Smoke Hood Shield for 2015-2018 Ford Edge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FMO6GSI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_YKBTCXAC8B9Q8X10NVM9 I think WeatherTech makes a hood deflector simular to what you want. Don't know if they have one that fits your 2016 edge but dont see any reason they wouldn't.

I have an 09 MKX. To be sure of everything, I'd change all fluids. All fluids age. Includes those areas that are "supposed" to be lifetime, like the PTU and RDU. At 150k, I'd also be looking at new plugs. (Not a big fan of 90k intervals). Have you changed the cabin air filter since you bought the car? How about the seat filters? Have you replaced the fuel tank and air bags?

Please let us know what they find. If it were me, whether the Schrader valves are leaking or not, I'd still ask them to replace them, as the seals harden and leak. (Preventive maintenance).

Do you have an aftermarket remote system? Any electrical modifications done? Any repairs?

Could be low on refrigerant (leak). System designed to shut off when low on refrigerant. Pull codes or take it in to a good shop. Could be any number of things.

You could also consider using a leak detector like this one (only $22 & good for R134A). (If you get it, check the Schrader valves, common point for slow leaks. Rubber O-rings dry out). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088QX7M41/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_EPNQ5YQ5JKKGZHNCM7B7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Try an experiment. Play an existing text message, while it's playing try manually turning up the audio volume on the radio. If this doesn't work, leave it up and try turning up the volume on your iphone. If this doesn't work, upgrade to an Android. {groan}

As you're driving a 2014, I'll bet your bulbs are weak. (All bulbs get weak with use). I found the bulb has a lot to do with seeing. These bulbs dramatically improved my night vision over the OEM bulbs. Rated at 100% over OEM bulbs (Philips also has more powerful bulbs. out now, rated at 130% over OEM, haven't tried them, but probably will next bulb change). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1OIESK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_ANGJRG7A83X13W3GD609?psc=1 Recommend you stay away from the Sylvania Silverstars. (Or any other bulb that has a bluish tint. Real waste of money).

My MKX does the same thing. On the drivers side, in the space between the glass and roof, therea space where the bamr rides in a tract. In there, there is a guide that supports an rubber, accordion seal. The guide has a metal insert in the accordion seal, that comes out and "taps" against the metal guide slot. A slight touch is usually all that's necessary to move it and stop the sound. (Irritating in that every little bump maks it vibrate). I've purchased new accordion seals but haven't had time to install them. Think it was originally caused by the accordion seal being deformed when it closed and folded over (rather than compressing), causing it to deform. Probaby dried out and became slightly stiff.

They may not have washed the oil off the rotor on one side. (Prevent rusting in storage). Car will pull until the oil burns off. (Just a guess).

What are the channels? We can tune them and see if we're able to duplicate.

Yes. Not that I know of. Essentially its just a wire sticking into the air. Believe it's a center loaded coil, but in truth I've never looked inside one. That would be my first guess. Did you gey a click when you attached? None that I know of. Either the connection slipped out, the new radio went bad or something hapoened to the antenna wire. Did you pull on it and possibly break the connector ?

These engines are made either at Cleveland (USA) or Valencia, Spain (VEP). The 2.0 USA engines have aquired a very poor reputatiom for quality.

Looks tedious. Why didn't you use a wire wheel? Are you planning to spray it with Eastman rust converter (or something simular)? Frame looks fairy good. How bad was the body rusted?

Probably crawled up into the back seat bottom (where it meets the floor) and chewed through the back seat upright. Little dickens can squeeze through the smallest openings.

Around here (winter months) its a necessity. Driving on the highway in the rain or sleet makes visibility difficult without a rear wiper or washer. FWIW, I'd save the parts to restore when you decide to sell the car. The next owner may need a rear wiper and make the sale more difficult without it. Don't believe that it's a DOT requirement, so dealer can't reduce the price of the trade-in.

I haven't seen it, but some of the remarks on Levittown Ford described it as "cheap and flimsy", and "could pry it off with a flat head screw driver ". Same could probably be said of all caps. Stop some individual from pouring sugar into the tank.

When you wash your windshield, does the spray mess up the rear? (Run down and leave streaks)?

For a late model Edge, they're listed in the owners manual. Your Ranger (as well as my 2009 MKX) have a separate maintenance manual. Ford stopped that due to cost. (If fact I believe they eliminated the printed owners manual as well, in late model cars). Most here feel it's better to change fluids sooner than what Ford recommends. Especially for the equipment where they claim that its good for life. It's true most fluids can go 60k or 90k, but most studies indicate that fluid change earlier prevents problems. In addition, there ard several different schedules for different driving conditions. Have you ever driven through deep water? A different schedule kicks in at that point. For example, in my 2009 MKX, the PTU has no requirement for fluid change. Unless I drive through water deep enough to touch the housing. Considering wave action and splashing, that can be as little as a foot of water. Lincoln then recommends changing the fluid. Rear Axle as well. (Manual says "submerged" but dealer's service manager told me whenever there was any possibility of water entering the vent). There are different schedules for dusty roads, excessive idling, etc. I drive short trips. And my car sits for long periods between trips. Engine draws moisture into oil and other fluids (normal engine use burns the water out, sitting doesn't). Changing to PTU fluid at 30k intervals (Lincoln says its lifetime) is good insurance. I had the unit replaced last year under warranty. The fluid turned to sludge and stopped lubricating. Had the RDU fluid & break (wink) fluid changed as well. And we haven't even started discussing changing the air in our tires.

If it's just on one side, maybe the nozzle is plugged. (Back pressure)?

While your at it, I would recommend replacing the fluids the are NOT normally recommended. The PTU, the rear axle & brake fluids. Don't forget the cabin filter.

Did you delete the washer as well? (Disconnect the hose to the rear at the pump)?

I "seen" that ad. But read the fine print. It only protects the roof.

What do you think caused the O-ring to go bad in the first place? Was it split?

What do you think fellas, $90 and I gain 60 hp and 5 mpg!!! No installation, just plug it into the OBD2 port. Why couldn't Ford/Lincoln think of this? (heh, heh, heh, one if the ads that popped up on this site). https://www.thortonchiptuning.com/product/lincoln-performance-chip/