enigma-2

If I remember correctly, you're supposed to preform a procedure to teach to roof its full open/full closed position. I'd try this reinitializion procedure to make certain the motors know what full closed is. This video should help.

I don't believe that SKF offers a warranty on their bearings. (Something to kick around before buying; just in case).

89 in-lbs

I've read that this being reported on some Sony radios. One suggestion was the turn off the surround and play with the discrete stero contrils. The responder noted that these radios have different modes programmed in and may possibly turn off certain controls for the best "experience ".

On my 2009 MKX the AM/FM reception is through the antenna in the front (above the windshield). There is an antenna module inside the car directly under the AM/FM antenna. The shark fin (above the rear spoiler) receives Sirius and (if equipped) the GPS signal. I don’t have schematics for other than 2009/10 model years and it's possible this may be changed in later model years. You won't know for certain until you pull the codes.

When you ran the self-test, did you check for any DTCs?

Sounds like a rear bearing. Gets louder with speed and on turns. Sound of a bad wheel bearing can be chirping, squealing or growling. (Everyone I've ever experienced was a deep growling).

Lock it back on with a plastic wire tie.

The Ford - dealer agreement prohibits it. The agreement is specific as to what the dealer's can and can't do. Excellent post btw. I'd imagine several modules would need programming. And the cost would choke a horse.

Dangerous if it started up in a closed garage when no one was aware. But, continuing the thought, if it sensed the battety voltage getting low and sent you a text on your cell .... "I'm sorry to bother you Dave. This is your car, Hal. I'm afraid to tell you but it appears that my battery voltage is getting low. I've tried shutting off everything I can, but it appears that the APIM module and the drivers door mirror have gotten into an arguement and are refusing to listen to me. Would you like for me to open the pod-bay door and start the engine?"

I've had a simular problem. Initially I had been able to force the side shield back into position and that seemed to fix it. Eventually the shield on the drivers side developed a desire for freedom and started crawling out of its attachment. I finally bit the bullet and bought new shields. I believe I paid around $80 but see the current price is now $104+. (This is for my 2009 MKX, may be different for other years). Here's one link if your thinking of replacing them. Comes with the rubber rail and steel insert. (Again this is for a 2009 MKX. #10 on the diagram). https://www.group1autoparts.com/v-2009-lincoln-mkx--base--3-5l-v6-gas/body--sunroof

There are several. Here's the link to the one I was talking about.

Looking at the fix, is there any possibility that the excess wrap could catch on the moving psrts and bind the sliding mechanism? Seems to be a really poor engineering design, the clip just pressing against the rail. Wonder if putting a slight more bend in the clip itself, to press a little harder against the rail, would eliminate the tiny gap? Did it rattle when open or just when closed? I +hate+ ticking rattles. And plastic-on-plastic squeeks. Good find edgeST2020! Would makeva good YouTube video.

A leaking caliper is dangerous. Speaking just for myself, I would never rebuild a caliper. (I knew a guy years ago that rebuilt one and it blew out 6 months later and caused a minor accidient). If it were me, I'd bite the bullet & replace the caliper. (And I'd go Motorcraft if available). Leaking brake fluid is always dangerous.

https://youtu.be/cWs4WA--eKU

As it only happens at idle, I'd suspect your battery is getting weak or the charging system is not covering the battery losses. First thing I'd check for are corroded or loose battery terminals. Then run a CCA test on the battery and an voltage output test on tbe alternator at idle.

Does it still make the humming sound when the load is removed? I doubt your Edge has air shocks. If it were air shocks, you'd see the car sag from the load of the tile then lift to level. If the shocks had failed, it wouldn't be intermittent. It would be steady, as it tried to get level and couldn't. If there are air shocks and they are leaking, the car would level, then sag, then pump up to level then sag, etc. My suspicion is on the fuel pump. They can be really annoying. Process of imination. Easy check is to crawl under the car and listen near the fuel tank (car running). Or ask the technician have a listen when the car's on the lift for an oil change, etc. Only other thing I can think of is a part of the exhaust just barely touching the frame or suspension and causing the "humming" sound. The only way you're gonna find it is throw some cardboard on the ground and crawl under the car when running to find where humming is loudest.

May not be worth the effort, but have you tried pulling the codes?

Wonder what effect they have on the AdvanceTrec system? I read on the F150 forum when they used wider tires the roll stability (they referred to it as the Traction Control System) kicked in, when driving over 35 mph and going around curves. He found he could reduce it by slowing down on tight curves.

The proper name is weatherstripping. If your fix doesn't work (it should), here's a link to the OEM product https://www.fordoempartsdirect.com/oem-parts/ford-weather-strip-on-body-dt4z7820708a?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9ZG9vci1hbmQtY29tcG9uZW50cyZsPTQmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1mb3JkJm89ZWRnZSZ5PTIwMTQmdD1zZSZlPTMtNWwtdjYtZ2Fz

No need to bring the cat into it .......... Anyway, remember the old saying, "there's a thin line between thinking outside the box and a cafeen-induced wacko idea". Click.

Yes, the openers came with an optional package (most had however). Why not consider buying a used visor off Ebay and install it yourself? They're fairly easy to replace. All you need to do is get the correct part. Go to a parts site, look up the exact p/n based on your car, then look on Ebay. Here's one example of what you will find (they run from ~$60 to ~$300). (Start by making an offer 10% under asking). https://www.ebay.com/itm/233817552135?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9Ptp_voaThC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Based on everything you have already done, I'd suspect a broken wire or loose pin connection, in one of the connectors. (Whatever was stuck under the seat and caused the rail to bend, had enough force to (possibly) pull on the harnesses with enough force to weaken the connector(s) or break a wire).

It would help if you posted the year and model in your question (different years have different procedures). That said, are you certain you need to remove the glove box? On the later MY the glove box swings down far enough to remove the blower.

Just a guess but considering the sound being a humming sound (indicating that it's an electric motor), I'd think you were hearing the fuel pump. The load may have pressed down on the suspension, forcing to fuel tank tighter against to car body or suspension; allowing the sound of the fuel pump to be transmitted into the car body. Amplifing the sound level of the pump.