enigma-2

See if this diagram helps https://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_wiring.html

? great find. Remember when we were kids and they used to put those clear vinyl seat covers (with bubble bumps on the surface)? Dealerships used to offer to increase trade in value (no wear on seats). Course cars only lasted three years back then. Local shol of choice was called "Seat Cover Charlie".

One common area is when one of the underbody closure panels sheads a fastener or two and vibrates against the body. Exhaust heat shields can also cause a buzzing.

Looks like a good warranty. Only other caveat was the requirement that you must provide "valid" date of purchase and milage. The date is easy enough via sales slip but valid milage if installing yourself, is a bugger. But if it lasts for three years, who cares?

Most dealerships use young'ens to do the simple work. Non-certified want-a-be's looking to get into mechanics school sponsored by the dealer. Can't trust any of them. After one visit I popped my hood, checked the dip stick and it was good. As I was replacing it, noticed they never replaced the engine cover. ? Stopped by the dealer couple of days later and demanded to go find my lost engine cover and ... idiot threw it away. Dealer had to buy me a new one. Bought a new 2009 MKX chrome wheel to replace one that had hit a curb. Verified that the idiot replaced it as it still had a green sticker on it. Only problem was, the sit-for-brains replaced the wrong wheel. Service Manager clearly wrote drivers front. Dumb ass replaced drivers rear. Threw old one away. Cost the dealer ~$600-$700. I watched the Service Manager himself go dumpster diving to find the old one. Also found my oil cap loose after one oil change. Hadn't fallen off yet, but probably could have worked its way off eventually. Every couple of years I have them replace the oil drain bolt. Most of these idiots over tightening the bolt thinking the tighter the better. When my mom was alive, she had her Honda serviced at local Honda dealer. Complained it wandered all over after every oil change. As it was a 40 mile drive to her house to fix this, I had enough and stopped by Basney Honda to report the idiot doing the oil changes was over-filling the air pressure in the tires. Service Manager told me that he was filling the tires to the pressure marked on the tires, which is what Honda required. (I imagined his qualifications for the job was his ability to ask "want fries with that"?) We argued for about a half hour. (I dont back down when dealing with idiots). Finally I demanded to speak to the Operations Officer of the dealer. He agreed with the Service Manager. So I called Honda. Next oil change, pressure was as printed on the placard. Stupidity runs all the way to the top in some dealerships. Ford also has excellent Regional Customer Representatives. 800-393-3673. (Dealer knows I have them on speed dial). Had these little battery anti-corrosion rings put on one trip as they found corrosion. Figured they'd clean the terminals and the ringy things would keep it clean. So the idiot put the rings on & never cleaned the terminals however. They did the work over on their dime. Customer click. .... (rainman)

You can retrieve the Keyless Entry Code by following the simple procedure described by Ford (link below). https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/keys-and-locks/securicode-keyless-entry-keypad/how-do-i-find-the-keyless-entry-code-for-my-intelligent-access-key/

You can buy a printed manual (OEM Factory Kit) for $60. (There's a link to get 10% off). (This may be the same manual that was included with your new car). This kit Includes an Owner's manual, case, Quick Reference Guide, Tire warranty Guide, Driving Guide and Supplement. (Note that there's only 3 available). https://www.ebay.com/itm/125177045072?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vB6ickDWSTe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If I remember correctly, you're supposed to preform a procedure to teach to roof its full open/full closed position. I'd try this reinitializion procedure to make certain the motors know what full closed is. This video should help.

I don't believe that SKF offers a warranty on their bearings. (Something to kick around before buying; just in case).

89 in-lbs

I've read that this being reported on some Sony radios. One suggestion was the turn off the surround and play with the discrete stero contrils. The responder noted that these radios have different modes programmed in and may possibly turn off certain controls for the best "experience ".

On my 2009 MKX the AM/FM reception is through the antenna in the front (above the windshield). There is an antenna module inside the car directly under the AM/FM antenna. The shark fin (above the rear spoiler) receives Sirius and (if equipped) the GPS signal. I don’t have schematics for other than 2009/10 model years and it's possible this may be changed in later model years. You won't know for certain until you pull the codes.

When you ran the self-test, did you check for any DTCs?

Sounds like a rear bearing. Gets louder with speed and on turns. Sound of a bad wheel bearing can be chirping, squealing or growling. (Everyone I've ever experienced was a deep growling).

Lock it back on with a plastic wire tie.

The Ford - dealer agreement prohibits it. The agreement is specific as to what the dealer's can and can't do. Excellent post btw. I'd imagine several modules would need programming. And the cost would choke a horse.

Dangerous if it started up in a closed garage when no one was aware. But, continuing the thought, if it sensed the battety voltage getting low and sent you a text on your cell .... "I'm sorry to bother you Dave. This is your car, Hal. I'm afraid to tell you but it appears that my battery voltage is getting low. I've tried shutting off everything I can, but it appears that the APIM module and the drivers door mirror have gotten into an arguement and are refusing to listen to me. Would you like for me to open the pod-bay door and start the engine?"

I've had a simular problem. Initially I had been able to force the side shield back into position and that seemed to fix it. Eventually the shield on the drivers side developed a desire for freedom and started crawling out of its attachment. I finally bit the bullet and bought new shields. I believe I paid around $80 but see the current price is now $104+. (This is for my 2009 MKX, may be different for other years). Here's one link if your thinking of replacing them. Comes with the rubber rail and steel insert. (Again this is for a 2009 MKX. #10 on the diagram). https://www.group1autoparts.com/v-2009-lincoln-mkx--base--3-5l-v6-gas/body--sunroof

There are several. Here's the link to the one I was talking about.

Looking at the fix, is there any possibility that the excess wrap could catch on the moving psrts and bind the sliding mechanism? Seems to be a really poor engineering design, the clip just pressing against the rail. Wonder if putting a slight more bend in the clip itself, to press a little harder against the rail, would eliminate the tiny gap? Did it rattle when open or just when closed? I +hate+ ticking rattles. And plastic-on-plastic squeeks. Good find edgeST2020! Would makeva good YouTube video.

A leaking caliper is dangerous. Speaking just for myself, I would never rebuild a caliper. (I knew a guy years ago that rebuilt one and it blew out 6 months later and caused a minor accidient). If it were me, I'd bite the bullet & replace the caliper. (And I'd go Motorcraft if available). Leaking brake fluid is always dangerous.

https://youtu.be/cWs4WA--eKU

As it only happens at idle, I'd suspect your battery is getting weak or the charging system is not covering the battery losses. First thing I'd check for are corroded or loose battery terminals. Then run a CCA test on the battery and an voltage output test on tbe alternator at idle.

Does it still make the humming sound when the load is removed? I doubt your Edge has air shocks. If it were air shocks, you'd see the car sag from the load of the tile then lift to level. If the shocks had failed, it wouldn't be intermittent. It would be steady, as it tried to get level and couldn't. If there are air shocks and they are leaking, the car would level, then sag, then pump up to level then sag, etc. My suspicion is on the fuel pump. They can be really annoying. Process of imination. Easy check is to crawl under the car and listen near the fuel tank (car running). Or ask the technician have a listen when the car's on the lift for an oil change, etc. Only other thing I can think of is a part of the exhaust just barely touching the frame or suspension and causing the "humming" sound. The only way you're gonna find it is throw some cardboard on the ground and crawl under the car when running to find where humming is loudest.

May not be worth the effort, but have you tried pulling the codes?