enigma-2

Wonder what effect they have on the AdvanceTrec system? I read on the F150 forum when they used wider tires the roll stability (they referred to it as the Traction Control System) kicked in, when driving over 35 mph and going around curves. He found he could reduce it by slowing down on tight curves.

The proper name is weatherstripping. If your fix doesn't work (it should), here's a link to the OEM product https://www.fordoempartsdirect.com/oem-parts/ford-weather-strip-on-body-dt4z7820708a?c=Zz1ib2R5JnM9ZG9vci1hbmQtY29tcG9uZW50cyZsPTQmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1mb3JkJm89ZWRnZSZ5PTIwMTQmdD1zZSZlPTMtNWwtdjYtZ2Fz

No need to bring the cat into it .......... Anyway, remember the old saying, "there's a thin line between thinking outside the box and a cafeen-induced wacko idea". Click.

Yes, the openers came with an optional package (most had however). Why not consider buying a used visor off Ebay and install it yourself? They're fairly easy to replace. All you need to do is get the correct part. Go to a parts site, look up the exact p/n based on your car, then look on Ebay. Here's one example of what you will find (they run from ~$60 to ~$300). (Start by making an offer 10% under asking). https://www.ebay.com/itm/233817552135?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9Ptp_voaThC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=Snv36mbbRk2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Based on everything you have already done, I'd suspect a broken wire or loose pin connection, in one of the connectors. (Whatever was stuck under the seat and caused the rail to bend, had enough force to (possibly) pull on the harnesses with enough force to weaken the connector(s) or break a wire).

It would help if you posted the year and model in your question (different years have different procedures). That said, are you certain you need to remove the glove box? On the later MY the glove box swings down far enough to remove the blower.

Just a guess but considering the sound being a humming sound (indicating that it's an electric motor), I'd think you were hearing the fuel pump. The load may have pressed down on the suspension, forcing to fuel tank tighter against to car body or suspension; allowing the sound of the fuel pump to be transmitted into the car body. Amplifing the sound level of the pump.

I was thinking of the connector on the back of the camera itself. (Closest to the weather). See if this video helps

Couple of thoughts on this. 1. Shifter malfunctioning. If for any reason the shifter is not triggeeing the backup signal, the BCM won't get the signal, the backup lights won't come on and neither will the camera. (Possible reason for being intermittent). Have someone shift into reverse while you stand behind the car and see if the backup lights come on. If they don’t, the shifter mechanism is suspect. If th we y do, have them check to see if the camera is working. Shift several times to see if you can get it to fail. 2. Have someone shift into reverse. With the camera malfunctioning, try tapping directly on the camera to see if it's the problem. (If its purely electrical this may not work). If it works again (even briefly) the camera is the problem. 3. It's also possible that there's corrosion inside the connector (the components can still look new on the outside, but corrosion can form inside the connector causing intermittent faults). This requires removing the harch cover panel again, unplug the camera connector and carefully check for corrosion. (This is more common than you think. I was avionics tech in the Marine airwing. In Vietnam, we ran into this all the time. Aircraft cannon plugs are watertight with seals, but water still found its way into the connections. One of the first things we checked. Had a "hanger queen" that we just couldn't find the problem. Called in the Boeing rep and he found a thin coating of corrosion on one pin. Nearly imposdible to see. He fixed it by pouring some Coca Cola into the connector. Worked).

This is what a bad strut mount sounds like. (As WWWPerfa stated, change when changing struts).

Worn pads are the #1 choice. Seized caliper can cause growling.

What DTC codes present? Get everything plugged back in correctly?

TSS or OSS sensors? (If one is bad, replace both). Could be other tranny items as well. Did you pull codes?

Kinda wonder if the tranny is involved. The 2020 Edge has a powertrain recall, (NHTSA Campaign Number 20V550000) which talks about certain vehicles that are missing bolts from the start/stop accumulator endcap. These also one for the RDU. (NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 21V011000). (Currently there are three recalls on the 2020 Edge). Check the NHTSA site, enter your VIN to see if any of these affect your car. https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2020/FORD/EDGE/SUV/AWD Could also be something as simple as a part of the underfloor shield or exhaust system vibrating. (Loose, touching).

4th time is the charm. ?

How are the tires? (Brand, milage). I had a Sable with Michelin tires where the soft rubber wore off due to milage (20,000-25,000 miles) and had a sound simular due to hard rubber (which they use to get their 50k rating).

Two possible causes come to mind, 1. when replacing the battery you moved a harness and either shorted to conndctor opened one or more pins, breaking the connection to the front controls interface module. Try retracing your steps and wiggle the harnesses you may have moved during the battery change. Or 2, you sparked the battery when reconnecting and sent a voltage spike into the system. I know that CAN networks are supposed to be resistant to spikes, but these are still voltage senstitive components. If you take to the dealer for troubleshooting, believe it has a one hour labor cost. Don't know what the cost to replace is, but you could ask for a rebuilt or remanufactured unit to keep the costs down. (Do you have an extended warranty on the car)?

It's labeled as a PSY24W and appears somewhat identical to a PSX24W. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N8VDMJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_P2PNFSSXZFZB82X02P01 This is the turn signal bulb RockAuto is showing to fit your 2019. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2019,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3443235,electrical-bulb+&+socket,turn+signal+lamp+bulb,13675 Looking in the owners manual for the 2019, the front directional bulb is a LED identified a WY21W. Can you post a picture of the bulb? To be certain, you may need to check with your dealer to get the right bulb. I know that my MKX specified specific bulbs and the dealer had to specifically order the bulb. (Of course they were 10x more expensive than the equivalent than aftermarket).

https://www.amazon.com/Ruiandsion-PSY24W-Yellow-Chipsets-Replacement/dp/B08DHT5WVT

Didn't see where it complies with SAE standards (i.e. DOT certified). All Lighting used on motor vehiclrs used over the road myst be DOT certified. Also, FMVSS 108 has requirements about accessory lighting, "S5.1.3No additional lamp, reflective device or other motor vehicle equipment shall be installed that impairs the effectiveness of lighting equipment required by this standard." It's up to local enforcement officers to determine what is and is not "impairment". As far as where to tap in, run a wire to the closest brake light wire. Shouldn’t be difficult, pull a rear tail light assembly, locate the brake lamp bulb, identify the + wire. PROTECT ANY TAP THAT RUNS OUTSIDE THE CAR. If it shorts and you loose your brake lights, YOU can be held responsible for any accidient it causes.

Did you check the RDU?

BMS reset, engine on ,not running Flash brights 5x Step on brake pedal 3x Wait several seconds Battery light will flash 3x indicating reset

Wish I had access to the schematics. I'm trying to find out the purpose for the antenna control module (FR3Z-14D212-C). Thinking its a band pass separator, separating the Siris & broadcast signals, but can't find anything definitive. (This is where the service manual would come in handy). Rather than the antenna, I'm wondering if this could affect signal strength, allowing the Sirius signal but attenuating the broadcast signals. Anyone know the purpose of this module and how it works?

I wonder if the Bendix parking brake may be dragging? Shoes could be frozen and touching or rubbing on the backing plate.

Its possible that the 94.9 is close by and the head unit is receiving the signal directly. (But you'd need to be right across the street from tbe broadcast antenna). I'd pull the radio and check the antenna connection. Try using an ohm meter and see is the circuit is shorted or open. (I feel it's working, one because antenna's rarely fail (after all they're just a length of wire) and, two you're getting strong signal at one frequency). As you're getting some reception, more likely the antenna is feeding signal and the head unit is failing. You say it worked ok once, so most likely its the head unit. (Antenna circuits failing would give poor results across the band. But you would be getting some reception across the spectrum. Usual failure is corrosion at the connector.) Ohm out the antenna circuit. If its ok, your head unit has failed. You can get it serviced for $130 from these folks (add $50 for same day service) https://www.automotivecircuitsolutions.com/products/09-ford-radio-repair (They're are others - just google)