enigma-2

That definitely doesnt normal to me. Kind of sounds to me like you overheated the tranny and it started slipping. If you have access to a code reader, something like that should hsve set a code. If not, you should be able to have it read at Auto Zone or one of the other parts stores in your area. I'd recommend checking the fluid to make certain its full (how steep was the hill?) and also check its color and smell. If either is off, I'd get a tranny fluid change. (I'm picky about these things on my car. I get a tranny fluid change at every 30k. As well as the PTU. Cheap insurance).

Has his brakes always acted like this or only recently? Reason I'm asking is, he may use his brakes more than normal and worn the pads down to the nibs. The result is that theres not enough material left to withdtand the heat. Question to everyone, wouldn't he be better with organic pads? Granted, wouldn't last as long and are dirty, but good at withstanding heat better than simi-metallic.

You have one choice. Motorcraft and aftermarket. You know that Motorcraft will last and provide the best ride, is it cost?

I had something similar in my 09 mkx. Had the dealer look at it, and he found the emergency brake parts were rusted in place. As I needed brakes at that time, I authorized new pads, rotors and told them to replace whatever was needed (as in new brake shoes) for the emergency brakes. Based on what i had, I'll bet your emergency brake shoes are stuck on due to rust. (My emergency shoes were worn to 1 mm thickness, from being stuck on. Also the parts that apply the shoes were stuck and couldn't move). The emergency brakes are located inside the rear disk rotors.

Can't answer your question as there are too many possibilities & no one knows what parts you used. Parts that look the same can be completely incompatible. But in my opinion, you may be better served by installing an aftermarket system. There are kits available that connect to steering wheel buttons and add functions like Android Auto, etc. {example} https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Tn05AADcf7V/ymm/2007-Ford-Edge-Speakers-Stereos.html (Select with or without factory woofer)

There are literally hundreds of glass breakage reported by F150 owners. Many report smelling burning wiring as the breakage occured, leading to the belief that the defrost heater wiring is failing, causing overheating. Wonder if anything is different in the glass? Not much in the way of reports for the gen 1 platform vehicles having this problem. Did they change the glass or defrost heater in the gen 2?

Sounds to me what your describing is air entrapment in the cooling system. (Runs fine when in city traffic, overheats on acceleration. Circulation failure under load).

Print out the internet offer and have your local dealer match it. Then tell him you'll sign if he will give you $0 deductible if you agree to have all your service done there ($100 is done at any other Ford dealer). I used the inspection they did at a The Works oil change to qualify on the latest warranty.

I paid $100 on my MKX for an inspection (a few years ago). Worth every penny. You could also consider purchasing an extended warranty inasmuch as your getting a full Ford inspection. (Can purchase the warranty online, or print out a quote and take to dealer to match. Also ask for waver of $100 deductible if all service done at this dealer).

Car following but 1/4 mile off after power disconnect. First try a radio reset. Disconnect all fuses powering radio (3-sync, 28-radio, 39-radio, 41-delay). Or pull cable from battery and wait a few minutes. If radio still doesn't reset, try master reset. (Thru radio menu). One or the other shoud force nav to reset inner time and correct (think inner clock is off, interpreting satellite info wrong). If this fixes nav error and it goes bad again, possibly a apim going bad.

Was tow harness connected when the OEM headlight fuse blew? (Assume it was for high beams). If yes, I'd then suspect its finding ground through the tow connection wiring. If no, I'd suspect for bad ground wire/connection to headlights.

CF5V. If it were me, I'd contact technical support at Forgestar and talk it over with them. Dont forget to ask about alignment and AdvanceTrec problems when you alter the offset. techhelp@forgestar.com or 800-788-9353.

What did the battery test on the CCA test?

OEM headlights, or ☠ aftermarket?

Before you head to the dealer, check to see if Sync is working (ties into tbe sound system of the APM). If Sync is out, check the APIM fuse.

Thinking about this, I can only imagine one point where both circuits are in common. In the turn signal switch. It's there where you trigger the brights AND the turn signals (coupled to the tow lights). (Just a thought, could be wrong).

Ford coolant doesnt evaporate quickly. My 09 mkx doesn’t use any to speak of between oil changes. (3.5 Cyclone). Hope your dealer found the problem, my initial guess would center in on the water pump failing (if outer seal is leaking, its dumping coolant overboard through weap holes. If inner seal leaks, it dumps coolant into oil pan. They can test for water in oil to confirm). Could also be a hose leaking or head gasket. Coolant in oil will turn the oil a tanish cream color. Read this as well. https://fordauthority.com/2020/12/new-lawsuit-targets-ford-ecoboost-four-cylinder-coolant-leaks/

Battery condition, CCA test reading? If CCA reading below 50% battery is bad. Tightness of battery connections? Corrosion? Battery light indicates battery not charging. Did they check the condition of the belt? Tensioner good? How is it they replaced the alternator but didn't find the problem? Not much of a mechanic.

May not be an answer, but I remember reading in another forum where a related problem was traced to "profiles". He found if he deleted his profile, then made his setting selections as a guest, then reset his profile, they stuck. Seems that whatever you have once you create a profile, gets "stuck" into memory.

Motorcraft are rated at 100k miles. Can't go wrong with OEM.

Looks like a 5 or 6 mm box or open end wrench can undo it. (Or use a small, 5" adjustable wrench). How about unhooking the pipe support strap and pushing the pipe out of the way?

Which phone, which model, carrier? Latest phone software update? (Jan 27, 2022). Sync up to date? Try clearing the cache on your phones android connection app. (Settings -> apps -> storage -> clear cache). Try to reverse pair your phone with the car. https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/sync-with-myford-touch/how-do-i-reverse-pair-a-phone-with-sync-with-myford-touch/

It appears that no one really knows the difference (other ford forums as well). Looking at a Ford level 3 horn, it "appears" that it may be dual horns in a single housing. (Two separate horns feeding into a single output). In a level 2 horn, each is replacable. But in a level 3 horn, if either fails, the assy must be replaced. It "appears" that a level 3 assy can replace dual level two horns (same size wire and relay rating).

You said the dealer found the issue to be the oil pump. Your 2021 is still under warranty and Ford will repair. Let them fix it and see if there are any other problems after the repair. These engine certified technicians know what they're doing, what to look for and how to repair. If its a known problem, they know what to do. (P.S. the fun wasn't being directed towards you. Just having some fun to keep things light).