enigma-2

I really don't know, but I doubt it. Others would have written about it if so. The only candidates talked about were behind the grill and having to remove the front end to reach it. Possibly (and I'm guessing) going through one of the fender well panels.???

There are far too many places where grounds occur to list separately. One place to check for electrical corrosion is the connection at the SJB. See if this link helps: https://www.autocodes.com/b106e_ford.html

Some of these make sense, some, .... well somewhere in China there's a drunk pervert bragging to his buddies about his ability to translate Wnglish. 32-34.jpg.pro-cmg.webp 1-86.jpg.pro-cmg-800x1062.webp hat.png.pro-cmg-800x1067.webp mom.png.pro-cmg.webp 15-53.jpg.pro-cmg.webp 20-51.jpg.pro-cmg.webp pics-2.png.pro-cmg.webp rest.jpg.pro-cmg-800x1067.webp

Wow. I'm impressed. ... and you were asking us for advice? lol What's a "CSS module"?

Been discussed here before. This may help understanding its purpose:

When I was a kid they had what was called "The Mobile Gas Economy Run". It was a race (sort of) that the various automakers held the see who had the best gas milage. In an era where gas mileage averaged maybe 8 mpg certain cars, notably the Nash Rambler was posting in the mid 20's. The drivers were taught to use certain tricks, such as maintaining a nearly constant throttle between 30-50 mph, avoid quick braking and rapid acceleration. (For the latter, they taught the divers by placing a raw egg between the bottom of their shoes and the accelerator pedal. They could not break the egg during acceleration and breaking.) Same is still true today. To get great gas milage, slow, constant acceleration, anticipate breaking and maintaining a constant speed under 50. Boring I know, but you could try it as an experiment and see what your car can get above 500 miles.

I'm confused. You have HID headlights and want to replace with LED, or a different car with halogen?

The extended warranty on the door latch expired on July 10, 2020 (with <120,000 miles) for the 2011-2014 Edge. MC-10169994-0001(1)(1).pdf

I was talking to a fellow on another forum and he said they ALL come without screws. The screw holes are provided for screws should the tabs on the side break off. He didn't know what the thread or size was however.

May need to see your local Ford dealer. Not showing up on any parts site.

Here's an updated link: Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TP9KVSKCAN83PRPYNXJ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Anytime you have water backed up in a warm, dark place, nasty things grow. I'd still recommend shooting some Lubegard (post above) into the vent, which leads into the a/c , heater housing. Better if you go up through the drain, but easier through the dash vent). If there is mold in there, your breathing it whenever your driving in the car. Cheap insurance.

It's grayed out when the headlights are in the "auto" position. Is it still grayed out if they're in the "on" position or can you select "off"?

??

This should fit your Edge, https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2015-2020-Ford-Fusion-Edge-DRIVER-Side-Door-Handle-BEZEL-COVER-OEM-/233615592870?mkcid=16&amp;mkevt=1&amp;_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&amp;mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

245/50-20". I'd consider the Perrilli Scorpio AS Plus 3. Around $210/tire.

He can't get warranty on the problem as he modified the wiring (grounded the green wire). As the wire is grounded, it must be broken further up. You should be able to pull a code from the body control module, which may or may not help. But I seriously doubt the PCM is responsible. Wire breaks usually occur where there is flexture involved. This is why I would suspect the wire breaking near the door hinge (could still be inside door). One possible fix is to parallel the green wire through the door to cowling area.

I think the purpose of this part is to apply upward pressure on the glass when closing and closed. They're described under the primary seal section of the service manual. They're described as "concertina blinds". P/N: FT4Z-78500A66 for the passenger side, FT4Z-78500A67 for the drivers side. Price is around $95 + shipping & tax. (This p/n covers Ford Edge/Lincoln MKX, for 2007-2014). I DON'T think they are responsible for keeping water out. (That's the job of the rubber seal that runs around the top between glass and frame). The procedure to change is; 1. Open the roof opening panel to the VENT position. 2. Detach to top of the concertina blind from the moving glass frame. 3. Open the roof opening panel to the OPEN position. 4. Detach the bottom of the concertina blind from guide track in the most forward position. 5. To install, reverse the removal procedure. (Return to living room, tell wife "phew, that was really a job". Have her get you a beer and see if there's a NFL pre-season game on).

Years and years and years ago I had this happen to me. The mechanic didn't tighten the bleed screw properly.

FWIT General Motors announced that they are stopping all manufacturing of 2021 car due to lack of parts (chips mostly). Blamed it on COVID-19. Actually Ford just announced the same thing. "Until further notice ". https://www.cnbc.com/2021/04/08/gm-cutting-production-at-several-plants-due-to-chip-shortage.html Actually may be worth waiting as when the 2021's get chips next year, there will be a glut and you'll have your pick, perhaps at a good price inasmuch as they will be "last years model". !!!!

Did you check for corrosion on the fuel injector electrical connection?

The purpose of the motorized strut is to get the hatch to start the lift. The purpose of the struts are to push the hatch all the way open. If it's just balancing, I'd say the struts are starting to get weak. (No matter where you leave the hatch, the struts should take it from there to all the way open by themselves). If the hatch opens, say 75%, and you can manually lift it the remaining way, the struts are weak. Good struts will open the hatch 100% open. Weak struts will not.

Manufacturer recommended change interval for the 2011 is 100k, but it can be done earlier. If you're considering doing the 100k at 90k, then definitely spark plugs, followed by transmission and coolant. (If you haven't already changed over coolant to new type, then definitely have it done.) Full inspection on hoses and belts. Probably the engine air filter as well. Not as critical but I changed brake and pwr steering fluids as well. (All fluids go bad over time.) Good time to check tire pressure on spare. (Usually overlooked and spare looses air just like any other tire. I checked mine couple of years ago and it was flat. Turned out the valve cracked and needed changing. Would have turned out to be a tow if I had a flat tire.) If your Edge is AWD, then change fluid in the PTU. (Very important, but not all dealers do this as its not part of Ford's recommended service. Dealers can pump out old fluid using same equipment they use for rear axle). One item often overlooked is the cabin air filter. This is a simple item for the owner to change (and often forgot about). If the shop does it, its usually a high markup item. The seat filters on the 11 are just screens and usually don't need checking, but doesn't hurt to pull them and check for dust bunnies or whatever.

Nothing shown for the 2018 edge. Why not a rear mount hitch or roof carrier?