enigma-2

Ahh yes,, using the remote start option on a Model T. So simple, to remote start, you simply turned the ignition switch on, placing the emergency brake which put the transmission in neutral, pull the spark lever all the way down and move the gas lever down; just slightly. Then go to the front on the car and place the crank handle in the slot all the way to engage the crankshaft. It should be between the seven and nine o'clock position, making certain your thumb was on the same side as your fingers. Give a quick pull and if the Ford god was smiling on you, you would be blessed with a satisfying chitty, chitty, bang, bang, frompolilly, frompolilly, wheeze.

Yes. The remote start option has always used a hood switch. Windows and sunroof have to be closed as well.

Try this. Go into sync settings and set your ringtone to use phone's ringtone. BTW, are you certain that your volume is turned up? Maybe they can hear you but you can't hear them when they respond.

?fingers crossed. Maybe they'll do the right thing.

Did you check this? Owners manual implies they stay hot even when the car is off; on the 1st gen cars. (They were still referring to them as "cigar lighter/Power Point" ports in the 1st gen service manual). I believe they come off individual 20a fuses, which are on the "hot at all times" bus. Only difference that I'm aware of, between the Edge and MKX are the methods used to ground the PP's is slightly different. USB's turn off after 10 minutes or so.

Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FT8KTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_F34GAH3PAB55BGS2K677?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Never thought about this before, but doesn't the steering lock when the seloniod locks the transmission in park? Did you see this page? https://www.etrailer.com/question-341194.html

Well, not quite all, systems like the SJB listening for a FOB keypress and other electronics remain on. Believe the car's are expected to draw between 35 ma to 50 ma when off. On my 1st gen, the power points are energized at all times, allowing my Samsung cellphone charger to remain plugged in, charging when the car's off (which I've done several times). It would have been nice if Ford/Lincoln would have allowed this in the 2nd generations. (But I would imagine that a lot of people had battery discharge problems).³

Most of this video doesn't apply (fusion), but near the end he talks about where he's cutting in to the stock system and might be of help. In this video, the fellow talks about the flatness of the subs and how he improved it by making a simple modification. (May give you some ideas).

You may not consider this as helping,but there's always a degree of special tools and specialized knowledge needed for repairs on modern cars, and, anything related to steering or braking is something you may wish to use a professional to repair. You might consider that Ford offers a credit card to put your service on credit. One advantage is that anything over $150 and you get 6 months no interest (opm). With larger amounts you get 12 months. $300/6=$50 month. Just saying ...

I ran with the blue/white Sylvanias for a year. Impressive at first, but you really CAN NOT SEE AS FAR with blue light. You actually see further and better with yellowish light. Your eyes are more sensitive to this light. Consider that you only have around 2 to 7% (age, genetics) of your cones sensitive to blue light. Not only that, blue light focuses at a different place on the retina, further limiting your ability to resolve details. And to get the blue (whiteish) light they have to use a blue coating on the bulbs (further dimming the max light output). Also they tend to get dimmer after the first year. It's suttle, but they do weaken. (I think it's because Sylvania runs the filaments hot to overcome the blue coating losses.) I'm currently running with Phillips X-tremeVision bulbs and they are a really good improvement over Sylvania.

FYI the max rating for a 2016 without the factory towing package is: 2.0-L: 1,500 lbs 2.7-L: 2,000 lbs 3.5-L TiVCT: 2,000 lbs You only get to 3,500 lbs with the factory towing package and the 2.0 & 3.5 engines. (Pg 229 of owners manual).

Fantastic job ? . Really nice. When can you start on my Platinum White? lol

Start by doing a liftgate reset. Easiest way is to pull fuse no. 14, (liftgate module keep alive) for one minute. (Also check fuse #17, (liftgate latch) for continuity. (Both are in the engine compartment fuse box). Make certain vehicle battery is good (low voltage can play hell with modules). If still no go, see if this video helps

Ford like the Beemer, go into sleep mode (35-50 ma) after the battery saver mode kicks in. It's about 10 minutes on my MKX, about 15 minutes on his Beemer. When you lock the car, it goes into sleep mode instantly. (Don't really gain anything unless you have a fault and the draw will harm your battery in the 10-15 minutes).

You're down to bad head unit or speakers wired wrong.

There are several. Depends if you have heated or non-heated, memory or non-memory and puddle light, etc. The model i used for driver side was 9T4Z-17K707-D, passenger 9T4Z-17K707-B. 9T4Z-17K707-A, passenger, glass with spotter mirror, W/O Puddle Lamp, With Passenger Power Mirror, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-B, Passenger, with Power, Puddle Lamp, Memory, Heated, /Bd Cl Sk C, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-C, Fit Note: (-)"IL", Driver Power Mirror, W/O Puddle Lamp, Less Blind Spot Information System, With Drivers Power Mirror, Production Date: 09/2008-12/2014 9T4Z-17K707-D, Drivers, Power, Puddle Lamp, Memory, Heated, /Bd Cl Stock Cap, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-E, Arabic Language Label, Drivers, Power, Heated, Ck Mirror, With Puddle Lamp, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-F, Arabic Language Label, Drivers, Power, Puddle Lamp, Memory, Heated, Bd Cl Sk C, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010

Did you reset the unit (as described on page 10)? Reset is required after installation. With ignition off, press & hold for a couple of seconds the reset button at upper left side of front cover.

Yea, duh. (Was typing this on the patio drinking a Rob Roy).

Coolant and oil changes was my impression. The water pump is exposed to both.

Control arm or sway bar bushings can be noisy until the rubber gets hot and expands. What type of sound is it? If exhaust, you should be able to crawl under car just after starting and catch the leak.

I've had bot seals replaced under extended warranty on my 09 MKX. About year and a half after I had the complete PTU replaced (seal leaks in the PTU cook the remaining lube killing the internals).

My local dealer always changes the timing chains and installs the new type guides. Says they are designed to take up slack but are stretched nonetheless and need changing. He drops the entire powertrain subassembly as its faster. (When I talked to them about it, believe they quoted around $1800). Talked about having it done as a preventive maintenance item and he said he'd recommend around 175,000 miles. Pumps they see failing are do to poor maintenance.

Open the hood, start car, turn a/c to max. This forces both fans to run. Check to see if they're running ok.

Didn't have the option but it WAS designed to add one (think same ACU was used in the 150). On the back of the ACU the center connector is for video connection. Think it's pin numbers 1 (pos +) and 6 (neg -) but I'd need to check this to be certain. It's the one that currently doesn't have a harness plugged into it. There are sites that offer prewired wiring harnesses and programming units. Here's one site that sell kits to install a backup camera to your oem headunit (ACU). https://www.navtool.com/2009-2010-lincoln-mkx-video-interface.aspx

That's what I asked above and he replied that everything is wired properly. But I still suspect that the speakers are wired wrong. Edgewater, you need to pull the acu and visually verify that the correct speakers are connected to the proper terminals. No static at max volume indicates either a defective power amp in the acu or miswired speakers.