enigma-2

Tried that when I was younger. Made me tired!

This video may help explain how to refinish

Wait. You put gas in your tires?

The steering wheel they quoted (~$300) is probably the correct one. It comes without the switches, air bag or any add on parts (just the basic wheel). You move those parts over from the old wheel. Amazing you only have 65k miles on an 08, but hey! You will not need plugs until around 90k. But I would strongly recommend changing coolant to new green (full flush), tranny drain and fill, new brake, pwr steering and differential fluids. PTU flush and fill (every 30k) if you have AWD. All fluids get old, especially after 13 years. (Oxidize, pick up moisture, loose additives, etc).

Don't think we're on the same page. Are you saying your tune is California CARB approved? If so it would not be a problem. But for those whose tunes are not, they have no choice but to return to OEM tune. (After all, that would be the entire purpose of testing for cars that have been re-tuned for performance and modifying the emissions out of compliance). My question was, can they tell if a non-OEM tune was ever used? (Its not uncommon for software changes to keep a log of changes - and the car's computer, is a computer). If there's no record, whats stopping someone from re-tuning the day after the test? But if there "is" a log, it could be a red flag that its being tuned.

Was at my dealer couple of weeks ago to replace a wheel (some dumba°° hit a curb and damaged the wheel). Dealer had a "absolutely like new", 2-seat 1955 T-bird convertible, in the showroom. Total OEM. Original air in tires. (OK, May be an exaggeration but...) Red. First one the dealer received from Ford. Loved it so much he kept it. Shined like brand new. (Whimper). It was grandpa's (original owner of dealership), then dad's and finally grandson's (family dealership). 100% OEM. Stored in a building grandpa built for his collection. Beautiful. (Pant, pant, pant.) But that was the 'only' car he had in the showroom. Told me very difficult to get cars. Said the ones on order are already spoken for. Taking names. Refusing to add add on premium charge because he thinks people will remember when cars are in good supply again. Had received two Nautilus so far. First one sold first day, second one sold on transport truck. Fully loaded. Has waiting list. Local lawn & garden dealer has NO product. None. Zero. Plenty of people looking to by. Sells Simplicity & Cub Cadet (among others). Local grocery stores are also running low on products. Includes Martin's and Kroger's. Some shelves bare like last year.

So what's stopping someone from flipping the tune back to OEM for the smog test and then back to an advanced tune the day after? Is there any record in the software showing the history of changes like in other computer software tables?

I 'think' yours is like this: on firewall in engine compartment. May be difficult to find as doesn't stick out very far.

Looks like it should do the job. 4.3 stars. Nice product for the money. Maybe after it sits in the sun for a few days, it will soften and flatten out. (If not, no big deal). The usual complaints with these covers is they tend to dislodge and the hole over the light sensor move and the sensor gets covered. Just a small thing but something to keep in mind.

The steering wheel is a critical part, mainly because it contains the air bag. You will need to obtain a factory service manual to do a proper job, its not a simple pull and mount, like in the old days (I had done several). I have the service manual for my 09 and it's quite involved. May I ask why you want to change your steering wheel? If it's from wear around the rim, you could just use a good quality leather wrap and get by for $20 or so. The switches are replaceable without pulling the wheel as well. Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Steering-Wheel-Cover-PU-Leather-Black-Anti-Slip-for-38CM-15-wheel-Cover-/372731063726?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 $800 for plugs seems slightly high (but not unreasonable). I had mine done with the 90k tune up and think they charged thereabouts $660 (couple of years ago, or so). Problem is, you have to disassemble part of the engine to gain access to the coils and plugs on the back side. It's a job, but doable if your a good mechanic. But don't put it off as worn plugs have large gaps & need to draw extra current to fire. Extra current creates heat in the coils. If they get too hot, they fry. (Open or short). If just one shorts, it can also take out your PPM (engine computers). (And all of that can get to be very expensive). If it's difficult to lay out that kind of money, Ford offers a credit card (you can apply right at the service desk) and one year NO INTEREST. That's OPM! $800/12 months = $67 a month. Something to think about. (I use it every time I have my MKX serviced just to get the free interest.)

I know on mine it's under the car, on the drivers side hump. But I ~think~ it was moved to the firewall on yours. (Believe its where you found it in the pix you posted). The 2015 drain location has come up before in the forum. Here:

Maybe this might help https://www.focusrs.org/threads/disabling-fake-synthetic-in-cabin-engine-noise.10073/

It really doesn't sound like an alarm or information notification. I'll go out on a limb and offer a guess that it's related to your blower motor. An electrical component like a motor bearing or fan can throw off a sound on an intermittent basis. I had an intermittent sound coming from that area. I guessed it was one of the bearings on the blower motor (it sits behind the glove box). Would come and go. I finally pulled the motor (only took a few minutes) and shot some WD-40 into the bearings. Then some electric motor oil (simular to 3-in-one). And that stopped it. In any case, I'd suspect either the blower motor or you have something (perhaps in the glove box, or fallen behind it) that's rattling around. (OK, that's a stretch, but ....) In any case, I'd suggest that it's not a warning tone and proceed on that assumption. (Possibly a hvac door automatically opening or closing - and rubbing.)??? If it were me, I'd pull off the glove box door and go for a drive with the wifie poo in the passengers seat. Might be able to pin-point the culprit.

LEDs do fail. I wonder if it's possible to replace the individual LEDs? Should have set a code. You have any tester to read DCTs?

Check to see if something is plugged into one of the power ports. Lot of people reporting issues with this. One guy traced to stuck purge valve. Another found his battery was dying. Someone else reported his did this when car was parked, ignition in on position, car not running. (Same as turning key to 'aux' position).

10th one down shows "lane keeping alarm, warning chime".

Taking any bets on the outcome Euro 2020?

Thanks, didn't know that.

I was thinking that if your not around and remote start your car and anyone can pop into it, they could just drive it away. For an auto thief, not that hard to crawl on through the moonroof and ... yippee!!

Definitely the way to go. I can't imagine what it's like in the southwest this summer with temps hitting 130° in the shade. I've worked in Texas and Arizona during the summer and would have killed for window tint. So hot I couldn't open the car door because it burned my fingers. (But nothing like this year ...) What surprised me concerning the legality of window tint, was how its enforced all over the world. In in places you wouldn't expect. For example I was reading about how the cops in Saudi Arabia hit you with a fine of SA 500 for tint, and make you peal it off before allowing you to leave the scene. (Man, that's tough)! The UAE just changed their laws to allow 50% on the windshield and front windows. What's wierd is the fines go up based on the % of tint over the legal maximum. (I would have expected the Middle East to be more lenient because of the heat and sun). Here in Indiana, a cop friend of mine told me they don't stop anyone for tint, but definitely check it if the stop for any other reason (they have a gauge they carry that can determine the % of tint). He told me he has no hesitation in ticketing for tint as it's a safety issue for cops. Said it really puts the hair on edge walking up to a car where you can't see whats going on inside. I just have factory tint, but if I had legal tint like you and ever got pulled over, I'd put the windows down so the cop didn't get nervous.

Looks great, but you should be aware that blacked out windows on the front and windshield is illegal everywhere. Here is a list of state-by-state requirements: https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/glass-window-tinting/

It seems unlikely that a second unit would show exactly the same faults. If the head unit isn't the cause (most likely cause) possibly a fault in one or more speakers. There is a way to put the head unit into a test mode, to test the speakers for proper output. If the replacement unit is a oem Ford type, you could try an all-around test. The walk-around test mode is where you put the audio system into a test mode where each speaker is tested one-at-a-time. To enter the speaker walk-around test or audio unit self-diagnostic mode, the audio unit must be turned on and in radio tuner mode (AM/FM). To enter the speaker walk-around test, simultaneously press and hold the audio unit preset buttons 3 and 6 for approximately 3 seconds, then release. The speaker walk-around test applies sound to each speaker for about 1.5 seconds. Each speaker is tested and displayed on the audio unit in the following sequence: RF, LF, LR, RR. Be forewaned that the sound is turned up loud. If you choose, you can switch to the Audio Unit Self-Diagnostic Mode. To enter the following tests, press the desired preset button while in the speaker walk-around test. The audio unit self-diagnostic mode has 5 tests available: • Preset Button 1 = Audio internal / external SELF TEST. This test is an on-demand self-test. If SELF FAIL is displayed, press TUNE > to scroll through the DTCs stored. Refer to the Audio Unit DTC Index. If the system is OK, SELF PASS will be displayed. • Preset Button 2 = View/Clear continuous DTCs. NO DTCS is displayed if no DTCs are retrieved. If DTCS FOUND is displayed, press TUNE > to view the DTCs retrieved. Refer to the Audio Unit Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index. To clear all DTCs, press the EJECT button. DTCS CLEAR will be displayed. • Preset Button 3 = SIGNAL TEST. This test measures the average strength at the current tuner setting. ** Perfect for testing antenna types and position changes. ** • Preset Button 4 = Software level query. This test queries each audio system controller for its software configuration level. SOFT LEVELS will be displayed upon completion of the query. Press TUNE > to scroll view the software configuration version level. • Preset Button 5 = DISPLAY TEST. This test will light all the audio unit display segments for 5 seconds. When the test is complete, DISPLAY TEST is displayed on the bezel. 5. To exit the self-diagnostic mode, press the power button on the audio unit or turn the key to the OFF position. Audio Unit DTC Index: DTC - Description - Action B1317 - Battery Voltage High - CHECK the charging system. B1318 - Battery Voltage Low - CHECK the charging system. B1342 - ECU Is Faulted - CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B1342 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. B2406 - Audio Disc CD Player Internal Fault - CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B2406 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. B2477 - ECU Configuration Failure - CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B2477 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. REFER to Section 415-01 . TEST the system for normal operation. B2924 Audio Button Stuck INSPECT the audio unit for a stuck button and REPAIR the concern, if possible. CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B2924 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. B2965 - Audio System Speaker Circuit Fault - See Ford Factory Service Manual for troubleshooting steps If you installed an aftermarket unit, the diagnostics modes will be listed in the owners manual.

Well, that's a jaw dropper. It seems logical that Ford considered that the car had the doors closed when starting, requiring only that they be locked. But it would appear that they never thought of the doors open and locked as an acceptable alternate. Makes no sense to allow the car to be running, unattended and doors open allowing anyone access! That's a HUGE oops!

Always the good old do it yourself mod, ... like this: (cheaper too!)

Ahh yes,, using the remote start option on a Model T. So simple, to remote start, you simply turned the ignition switch on, placing the emergency brake which put the transmission in neutral, pull the spark lever all the way down and move the gas lever down; just slightly. Then go to the front on the car and place the crank handle in the slot all the way to engage the crankshaft. It should be between the seven and nine o'clock position, making certain your thumb was on the same side as your fingers. Give a quick pull and if the Ford god was smiling on you, you would be blessed with a satisfying chitty, chitty, bang, bang, frompolilly, frompolilly, wheeze.