enigma-2

I only have the 09 service manual so there may be some differences. One fuse supplies power to ignition switch, ACC comes off pin 6 to pin 3 of the SJB. The manual doesn't show the electrical breakdown inside the fuse panel, but you could see if power is getting to pin 3 when the ignition switch is set to ACC. I would tend to center in on the SJB being at fault more than the Ignition switch. Still, the power is supplied separately to the radio from the ignition switch when on in the RUN position and the car wouldn't start is it was defective. Have you checked for codes yet? I'd think that's your next step to take.

Assuming that everything is wired properly, front speakers to #7, rear to #8, sub to #9, I'd verify the radio is actually switched to the FM spectrum and not switched to AUX. If nothing is plugged into AUX, you'll no sound. I do this every once in awhile. I sometimes watch cable TV on my cell phone and run the sound via BT to the head unit. Next time I start the beast, I forget its switched over to IBTSTI and get no sound (until in sinks in and I switch over from duhhhhh to ahhhhh).

The preamp is where such tone controls as bass, treble and equalization control the audio signal that adjusts the sound to the internal amp. These amps are enclosed in the Audio Control Unit (the radio). You could try a reset (pull negitive terminal of battery for 10 minutes) or reset via menu. If it were me, I'd replace the head unit with one off ebay. $50 for 6-disk or $275 for navigation.

Why not just add a backup camera to the head unit? Mount the camera at the back, run the wire up through the tire well through existing groment, under back seat, through console to back of radio. Kits have pre-made harnesss that plugs into ACU.

Try a reset. Hold the next song bottom on the steering wheel and the radio power bottom at the same time. If this reset doesn't work, pull the fuse, wait a few and push it back in. It's worked for others. Check your manual for the fuse number, think it's 33.

Did you check fuse 28 with the ignition on?

Sounds like what happened to my 09 mkx. Ford replaced the fan assembly. (Can't advise on costs as replaced under extended warranty). When you're driving, the airflow through the radiator is sufficient to exchange the heat from the a/c. But when you're driving slow or idling, there is no air forced through the radiator and the airflow has to be generated with the electric fans. (If the fans fail, fairly common failure in the 1st gen, the a/c system high heat sensor turns off the compressor to prevent damage). Easy way to test is to turn on MAX AC and see if both fans are running. If not, the fans have failed. They both come out together on a subframe assembly. Make certain you replace only with Motorcraft as aftermarket have known to be problematic.

So is mine.

Uhhhhhhhjhhhhhhhhh ok. (I'm so confused).

I was going to be a smart ass and talk about how you open the glove box and push the button that sticks out on the left side real fast until the generator charged up enough to light the bulb. But I figured you would get miffed and so I didn't. Powered off the interior lighting circuit. I'd pull the box out, unplug the light and test independently for operation. Or you can test it while still attached by pushing the button that sticks out on the left, real fast, until ..... (good afternoon for margaritas).

I think it depends on whether you initiate the text screen or the system initiates it. When I'm listening to the Sirius and get a text message, it switches to the message screen. After it finishes it switches back to the previous screen. If I switch to the message screen, it stays on until I switch it to another function like CNN or whatever.

Check your fuse for Sync modules. Think its #29 in passenger compartment fuse panel.

If you're talking about over-the-air reception, surround requires a much better signal than regular radio. Perhaps its just dropping out of signal strength? These shark fin antenna's are questionable. I know they're base loaded, but just can't beat a 1/4 wave.

Put the audio system in the speaker all around test and see if your subwoofer is working. My THX has great bass.

How old is your vehicle battery? If its over three years old wouldn't hurt to have it tested (test for CCA values, NOT just voltage). Other things that pop to mind, seatbelt sensor detects a weight on passenger (or drivers) seat and seat belt not fastened. Other sensors such as tire pressure, parking break still on, etc. Next timebit beeps see if any messages or warning lights.

Yes, missed that. Thanks.

By any chance do you have thd 2nd FOB still in the car someplace?

You didn't mention whether it's FWD or AWD. If AWD I'd suspect the drive shaft. If FWD the CV joints. This site has a good explanation: https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/car-vibrates-going-uphill-inspection

From the 09 service manual (don't have an 07 or 08), Fuse # 3, APIM (sync), 15a 18, Audio amplifier (with Audphile I or II sound system upgrades used in Edge -or- Digital Signal Processing module (used in MKX), 20a 28, ACM (radio) hot in start position, 5a 38, subwoofer -or- audio module, 20a 39, ACM (Audio Control Module ~ radio), 20a 41, accessory delay feed 15a The radio can be operated from the ignition in RUN or ACC. The ACM (radio) can send it own DTC's (fault codes) that can be read with a scan tool (using FORScan https://forscan.org) These may or may not match your car, but I believe that fuse #39 controls power to the radio in your system.

Inasmuch as both keys do work at all, shows that the keys are still coded to the car. I'd try reconnecting the keys to the car by using the procedure in the manual. (I'm thinking that the car somehow lost the ability to recognize the unlock siqnal). Forget about starting a recall. You'd stand a better chance starting a pissing contest. Just saying ....

I'd use a VOM to figure out which is which. Probe each contact on resistance to locate ground (with one probe in chasses ground find the pins that show 0 ohms). The probe each pin using dc voltage range while holding the mirror switch left or right or up or down. While the color codes may have changed between years, it's almost certain they use the same operational configuration to achieve the sames results. Note that a completely different system is used between the 3-wire and 11-wire mirrors are used. For example in the 3-wire mirror, pin 2 controls the mirror up/down and pin 3 controls the left/right; whereas in the 11-wire mirror, pin 2 and pin 3 are wired together to turn the mirror down and left at the same time. They use completely different methods to control the motors.

No recall that I've seen. See anything on this site helps isolate the problem. (Corrosion on the wiper stalk switch connector is a good first starting place). https://itstillruns.com/troubleshoot-rain-sensing-wipers-7591440.html

This is somewhat unrelated, but high-end radar detectors are almost completely unavailable wirldwide. (Custom chip shortage). Dealers are now saying that they're being told that it could be six months to a year before they have stock. (Seems hit or miss, with big dealers still having or getting stock).

You guys still on lock down or are they starting to relax the mask/distancing requirements?