enigma-2

Well, one way would be to install the PCM, drive the car to the lot, remove the PCM and take it back to another vehicle and do the same thing. (I wasn't able to find out what chips exactly, looks like it involves just about all of them - in varying degrees). Doubt that the chip manufacturers are building just the chips that go in the PCM modules and ignoring the rest. Pretty much an all-or-nothing product line. (Chips for radios and the like would be sourced differently of course. I do know that the F150's are getting the chips, when they do come in. I agree with Biden's plan to create investment for chip manufacturers here in the states. We're too dependent on foreign (ahem) countries for our critical infrastructure.

Check for a corroded electric connector. Spray it with electrical contact cleaner.

My local dealer quoted another customer $325 to replace the drivers door switch. $1000 is ridiculous. Even at $80/hour that's nearly 10 hours labor (plus parts). Ridiculous. Check another dealer.

I think that can be said of most men. Welcome to the forum.

My MKX did this. Felt like a brake grabbing and then breaking free. Took it to the dealer and they greased something on the back brakes. Hasn't done it since. Said it was related to rust or corrosion.

Unless the chips are for the PCM. (Or a half dozen other control modules.) Think there's 30 or 40 modules on modern vehicles, don't know how many or what's missing. Ford's paying less than one hour for dealer techs to install, so can't be too involved. The F150's are getting chips, but little for the CUVs. And Renesas Electronics is still recovering from the fire and not yet back to full capacity.

This is a more expensive option ($2,300), but takes you from 4", MyFord Sync to 8", Sync 3 with navigation and show what pins to switch to get HVAC controls to function. (Includes bezel). Includes everything including cables, Sirus Radio, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay. Programned and plug-n-play. https://www.infotainment.com/products/2011-2018-ford-edge-4-to-8-sync-3-touchscreen-upgrade?variant=12301078790180

Yeaaaaaa. Can't say when was the last time I seen a rusty tire. Seriously, I read that the advantage of nitrogen in tires is because the nitrogen molecule is larger than air molecules! Since nitrogen molecules are bigger than normal air molecules, it is harder for them to leak out. This means a tire filled with nitrogen will maintain air pressure longer. https://www.lesschwab.com/article/are-nitrogen-filled-tires-worth-the-cost.html Guess all those tiny little oxygen molecules are the ones that leak out. That means when your tires lose air, there's only nitrogen molecules left (which are too big to leak out). So, just over inflate your tires, let the oxygen leak out and you're driving on nitrogen. Ka-ching! (time for another Bloody Mary).

I'm 5 hr, 20 min away, but can't travel there anymore. (No passport). Years ago, I used to travel to Quebec Provence to do business at Alcan Marine (& buy Havana's). ? Would travel as far as Jonquière. Loved Quebec, great people, great food. Easy to pass off though. Just ask them how they liked being owned by the French. (Don't forget to duck).

You can do it, but there are a couple of considerations. 1) The most important is the load carrying capacity of the smaller tire. You're dealing with a heavy CUV and don't want to use a tire that's under the rating shown on the placard. Make certain the smaller tire has at least that same load index and speed rating as the OEM as shown on the label on the door B- Pillar. 2) Your speedometer will be off 1 mph at 60 mph. Comparing the two sizes; 245 235 Dia: 29.6" 29.1" (-1.7%) Width: 9.6" 9.3" (-3.1%) Revs/mile: 682. 693. (+11) One other consideration is whether to have an alignment. I don't know if the different (smaller) tire would change the geometry of the suspension enough to justify the cost of alignment. For me, I do it whenever I put on new tires. But I ~don't think~ it would be necessary with these. May wish to talk to the shop when the put them on. (If it's been awhile, or, if you just don't know, would probably be best to have it done. My local Ford dealer has installed new equipment when you pull your car into the service area. It checks every car's alignment and displays it on a flat screen monitor for you to see. If its off, they "recommend" an alignment. (Interesting enough, nearly 60% of the cars coming if for service need alignment. And the one ahead of me was really bad.

I think nitrogen filled tires are great. Dry gas. Keeps the inside of the tires from rusting.

12.6 volts is really meaningless in today's cars. Couple of years ago we were out shopping. Short trips to various stores. Was at local grocery, and when we came out the battery wasn't able to turn the car over. I carry an emergency jumper battery and was able to jump the car and get it started. But it was an old battery that finally wasn't able to take a sufficient charge with so many short trips. In today's cars, you need to test the battery by testing the CCAs (dealers refer to this a test under load). Even a weak battery can test good volts at rest, and certainly should have charged up during the drive to the dealer. Start by doing a CCA test of the battery. (Eleminate the obvious).

Check the battery cable connectors for corrosion. Test the battery running a LOAD test (test the actual CCAs). Check for DCTs. (Anything that turns on the IC warning will set a code). The voltage being output to the alternator can be controlled by the PCM. Codes will tell you if either of these are involved.

Ford announced couple of days ago that they still have a huge backlog of vehicles. Ford said they are going to ship vehicles direct to dealers, without chips, and allow the dealers to finish build the car. Allows prospective customers to pick out their car they like and make a sale, before it's drivable. RE: https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a37050732/ford-dealerships-chip-supply-shortage/

Most likely the transmission would overheat and the fluid will be opaque and foul smelling. I believe that a bad torque converter can cause the transmission to drop out of gear. Not to mention being shuttering, clunking or noisy.

I believe we're talking about two different conditions. If you're just returning the car, you can do so to any Ford dealer. They will see that it gets back to the owningu dealer. If you're planing to buy the car off the lease, the original dealer is the owner (on floor plan). A different dealer would need to go through considerable paperwork to sell the car that he doesn't own. (Think this is correct, if anyone knows better, please correct me). I had a co-worker who wanted to buy his Explorer at the end of lease. He ran into this same problem. (In the end he decided not to buy it and turned it back in. To a different dealer in the next city over as he was having a hissy). That dealer did a turn-in inspection and found several small dings and a wheel scrape. He charged him the cost of repair. About a month later he got a bill from the company who did the loan, advising they did their inspection and found other problems. They required he pay for a new wheel as it had a scrape that could not be repaired. This was in his contract, but he thought the dealer had this all covered. Course he had a real hissy over this. Talked about it for a year. (Perhaps "talk" may not be the correct word, he was really pissed as it was several hundred dollars). Anyway, your contract spells out how, where and what to expect when you turn it back in, or want to buy it off the contract, or buy it after the contract is complete.

Well. We got that settled.

Wait. Isn't Quebec "in" North America?

Wow! Nice garage.

I was reading on the 150 forum where another guy fixed this with a new battery. (He figured the coils on two cyls were weak and blowing out under load). Another guy said his dealer reflashed his PCM. Another removed his high octane tune and it stopped. And another the dealer lowered his red line.

The reference to brake warning during starting is why I mentioned the battery. When a battery gets weak, 60%, voltage drops during starting. (At rest it recovers). Low voltage doesn't affect the starter much, but plays hell with all the computers in the car.

Have you checked the CCA's of the battery? How old is your battery?

Could be the fluid got hot and starting congelling, (not leaking).

Tirerack.com lists the 265/40R22 as max. Try calling them at 888-541-1777 and see what they would recommend.

I'm inclined to agree. Ford parts didn't list the switches but another site did. Plugged "steering wheel " into Ford Parts.com site under 2008 edge and it returned Steering Wheel Part Number: 8T4Z-3600-FA Browse more in Steering - Steering Wheel & Trim Other Names: Wheel Assembly - Steering Description: MKX. Edge. With sync system. Charcoal black/camel. With navigation system. Without blue stitching. With leather, with sync, stone. MSRP $394.00 $366.42 as the only wheel available. From what I can discern, the switches may be related to navigation. On my 09 MKX, it looks the same as what you pictured. But it was factory with the 6-disk CD and navigation was installed by the dealer as original purchaser changed mind. I don't see a problem if the switches don't match as they just pop off and all you need do is switch from existing wheel. (Probably just a label and still electrically identical.) Anyway, important part is to get color of wheel correct (black or stone).