enigma-2

Thanks, didn't know that.

I was thinking that if your not around and remote start your car and anyone can pop into it, they could just drive it away. For an auto thief, not that hard to crawl on through the moonroof and ... yippee!!

Definitely the way to go. I can't imagine what it's like in the southwest this summer with temps hitting 130° in the shade. I've worked in Texas and Arizona during the summer and would have killed for window tint. So hot I couldn't open the car door because it burned my fingers. (But nothing like this year ...) What surprised me concerning the legality of window tint, was how its enforced all over the world. In in places you wouldn't expect. For example I was reading about how the cops in Saudi Arabia hit you with a fine of SA 500 for tint, and make you peal it off before allowing you to leave the scene. (Man, that's tough)! The UAE just changed their laws to allow 50% on the windshield and front windows. What's wierd is the fines go up based on the % of tint over the legal maximum. (I would have expected the Middle East to be more lenient because of the heat and sun). Here in Indiana, a cop friend of mine told me they don't stop anyone for tint, but definitely check it if the stop for any other reason (they have a gauge they carry that can determine the % of tint). He told me he has no hesitation in ticketing for tint as it's a safety issue for cops. Said it really puts the hair on edge walking up to a car where you can't see whats going on inside. I just have factory tint, but if I had legal tint like you and ever got pulled over, I'd put the windows down so the cop didn't get nervous.

Looks great, but you should be aware that blacked out windows on the front and windshield is illegal everywhere. Here is a list of state-by-state requirements: https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/glass-window-tinting/

It seems unlikely that a second unit would show exactly the same faults. If the head unit isn't the cause (most likely cause) possibly a fault in one or more speakers. There is a way to put the head unit into a test mode, to test the speakers for proper output. If the replacement unit is a oem Ford type, you could try an all-around test. The walk-around test mode is where you put the audio system into a test mode where each speaker is tested one-at-a-time. To enter the speaker walk-around test or audio unit self-diagnostic mode, the audio unit must be turned on and in radio tuner mode (AM/FM). To enter the speaker walk-around test, simultaneously press and hold the audio unit preset buttons 3 and 6 for approximately 3 seconds, then release. The speaker walk-around test applies sound to each speaker for about 1.5 seconds. Each speaker is tested and displayed on the audio unit in the following sequence: RF, LF, LR, RR. Be forewaned that the sound is turned up loud. If you choose, you can switch to the Audio Unit Self-Diagnostic Mode. To enter the following tests, press the desired preset button while in the speaker walk-around test. The audio unit self-diagnostic mode has 5 tests available: • Preset Button 1 = Audio internal / external SELF TEST. This test is an on-demand self-test. If SELF FAIL is displayed, press TUNE > to scroll through the DTCs stored. Refer to the Audio Unit DTC Index. If the system is OK, SELF PASS will be displayed. • Preset Button 2 = View/Clear continuous DTCs. NO DTCS is displayed if no DTCs are retrieved. If DTCS FOUND is displayed, press TUNE > to view the DTCs retrieved. Refer to the Audio Unit Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index. To clear all DTCs, press the EJECT button. DTCS CLEAR will be displayed. • Preset Button 3 = SIGNAL TEST. This test measures the average strength at the current tuner setting. ** Perfect for testing antenna types and position changes. ** • Preset Button 4 = Software level query. This test queries each audio system controller for its software configuration level. SOFT LEVELS will be displayed upon completion of the query. Press TUNE > to scroll view the software configuration version level. • Preset Button 5 = DISPLAY TEST. This test will light all the audio unit display segments for 5 seconds. When the test is complete, DISPLAY TEST is displayed on the bezel. 5. To exit the self-diagnostic mode, press the power button on the audio unit or turn the key to the OFF position. Audio Unit DTC Index: DTC - Description - Action B1317 - Battery Voltage High - CHECK the charging system. B1318 - Battery Voltage Low - CHECK the charging system. B1342 - ECU Is Faulted - CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B1342 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. B2406 - Audio Disc CD Player Internal Fault - CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B2406 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. B2477 - ECU Configuration Failure - CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B2477 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. REFER to Section 415-01 . TEST the system for normal operation. B2924 Audio Button Stuck INSPECT the audio unit for a stuck button and REPAIR the concern, if possible. CLEAR the DTC. CARRY OUT the self-test. If DTC B2924 is retrieved again, REMOVE the audio unit and SEND it to an authorized audio system repair facility. B2965 - Audio System Speaker Circuit Fault - See Ford Factory Service Manual for troubleshooting steps If you installed an aftermarket unit, the diagnostics modes will be listed in the owners manual.

Well, that's a jaw dropper. It seems logical that Ford considered that the car had the doors closed when starting, requiring only that they be locked. But it would appear that they never thought of the doors open and locked as an acceptable alternate. Makes no sense to allow the car to be running, unattended and doors open allowing anyone access! That's a HUGE oops!

Always the good old do it yourself mod, ... like this: (cheaper too!)

Ahh yes,, using the remote start option on a Model T. So simple, to remote start, you simply turned the ignition switch on, placing the emergency brake which put the transmission in neutral, pull the spark lever all the way down and move the gas lever down; just slightly. Then go to the front on the car and place the crank handle in the slot all the way to engage the crankshaft. It should be between the seven and nine o'clock position, making certain your thumb was on the same side as your fingers. Give a quick pull and if the Ford god was smiling on you, you would be blessed with a satisfying chitty, chitty, bang, bang, frompolilly, frompolilly, wheeze.

Yes. The remote start option has always used a hood switch. Windows and sunroof have to be closed as well.

Try this. Go into sync settings and set your ringtone to use phone's ringtone. BTW, are you certain that your volume is turned up? Maybe they can hear you but you can't hear them when they respond.

?fingers crossed. Maybe they'll do the right thing.

Did you check this? Owners manual implies they stay hot even when the car is off; on the 1st gen cars. (They were still referring to them as "cigar lighter/Power Point" ports in the 1st gen service manual). I believe they come off individual 20a fuses, which are on the "hot at all times" bus. Only difference that I'm aware of, between the Edge and MKX are the methods used to ground the PP's is slightly different. USB's turn off after 10 minutes or so.

Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FT8KTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_F34GAH3PAB55BGS2K677?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Never thought about this before, but doesn't the steering lock when the seloniod locks the transmission in park? Did you see this page? https://www.etrailer.com/question-341194.html

Well, not quite all, systems like the SJB listening for a FOB keypress and other electronics remain on. Believe the car's are expected to draw between 35 ma to 50 ma when off. On my 1st gen, the power points are energized at all times, allowing my Samsung cellphone charger to remain plugged in, charging when the car's off (which I've done several times). It would have been nice if Ford/Lincoln would have allowed this in the 2nd generations. (But I would imagine that a lot of people had battery discharge problems).³

Most of this video doesn't apply (fusion), but near the end he talks about where he's cutting in to the stock system and might be of help. In this video, the fellow talks about the flatness of the subs and how he improved it by making a simple modification. (May give you some ideas).

You may not consider this as helping,but there's always a degree of special tools and specialized knowledge needed for repairs on modern cars, and, anything related to steering or braking is something you may wish to use a professional to repair. You might consider that Ford offers a credit card to put your service on credit. One advantage is that anything over $150 and you get 6 months no interest (opm). With larger amounts you get 12 months. $300/6=$50 month. Just saying ...

I ran with the blue/white Sylvanias for a year. Impressive at first, but you really CAN NOT SEE AS FAR with blue light. You actually see further and better with yellowish light. Your eyes are more sensitive to this light. Consider that you only have around 2 to 7% (age, genetics) of your cones sensitive to blue light. Not only that, blue light focuses at a different place on the retina, further limiting your ability to resolve details. And to get the blue (whiteish) light they have to use a blue coating on the bulbs (further dimming the max light output). Also they tend to get dimmer after the first year. It's suttle, but they do weaken. (I think it's because Sylvania runs the filaments hot to overcome the blue coating losses.) I'm currently running with Phillips X-tremeVision bulbs and they are a really good improvement over Sylvania.

FYI the max rating for a 2016 without the factory towing package is: 2.0-L: 1,500 lbs 2.7-L: 2,000 lbs 3.5-L TiVCT: 2,000 lbs You only get to 3,500 lbs with the factory towing package and the 2.0 & 3.5 engines. (Pg 229 of owners manual).

Fantastic job ? . Really nice. When can you start on my Platinum White? lol

Start by doing a liftgate reset. Easiest way is to pull fuse no. 14, (liftgate module keep alive) for one minute. (Also check fuse #17, (liftgate latch) for continuity. (Both are in the engine compartment fuse box). Make certain vehicle battery is good (low voltage can play hell with modules). If still no go, see if this video helps

Ford like the Beemer, go into sleep mode (35-50 ma) after the battery saver mode kicks in. It's about 10 minutes on my MKX, about 15 minutes on his Beemer. When you lock the car, it goes into sleep mode instantly. (Don't really gain anything unless you have a fault and the draw will harm your battery in the 10-15 minutes).

You're down to bad head unit or speakers wired wrong.

There are several. Depends if you have heated or non-heated, memory or non-memory and puddle light, etc. The model i used for driver side was 9T4Z-17K707-D, passenger 9T4Z-17K707-B. 9T4Z-17K707-A, passenger, glass with spotter mirror, W/O Puddle Lamp, With Passenger Power Mirror, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-B, Passenger, with Power, Puddle Lamp, Memory, Heated, /Bd Cl Sk C, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-C, Fit Note: (-)"IL", Driver Power Mirror, W/O Puddle Lamp, Less Blind Spot Information System, With Drivers Power Mirror, Production Date: 09/2008-12/2014 9T4Z-17K707-D, Drivers, Power, Puddle Lamp, Memory, Heated, /Bd Cl Stock Cap, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-E, Arabic Language Label, Drivers, Power, Heated, Ck Mirror, With Puddle Lamp, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010 9T4Z-17K707-F, Arabic Language Label, Drivers, Power, Puddle Lamp, Memory, Heated, Bd Cl Sk C, Production Date: 09/2008-07/2010

Did you reset the unit (as described on page 10)? Reset is required after installation. With ignition off, press & hold for a couple of seconds the reset button at upper left side of front cover.

Yea, duh. (Was typing this on the patio drinking a Rob Roy).