enigma-2

I'd recommend resetting the main processor. (To reset, press the tiny button in the upper left side on the face. Make certain nothing is plugged in such as USB, or etc.) You can use a ball point pen or toothpick. Another thing could try is to turn off the "Local" setting. (Have no idea if this would work, but can't hurt to try).

Does this work?

Discussed here (Focus Forum). https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/remove-rearview-mirror-from-titanium-with-tech-package.807653/

@Handfiler stated he didn't know if it ran android or not. (It was from your post where I learned about AA WIRELESS.) Great find, thanks for posting. For me, I usually run with a radar app when I'm on the road and that requires me to keep the phone plugged in; so I'm already using a cable and going wireless isn't a biggie.

AA wireless is supposed to run Android Auto https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/ Good reviews on https://www.fordtremor.com/threads/aawireless-for-wireless-android-auto-on-sync-3.3810/

Yes. It's been possible since 2007 sync.

See pix 3 in the set Haz provided. To remove, just pull it off by hand. I believe that the green shaded part comes first. To replace, it clips back in. (From 150 forum). As far as plugging in the Mirror Tap, pin #1 is black ( +12 volts) and pin #4 is green (ground).

Ever get it open?

https://www.etrailer.com/question-218041.html

Car off. Go to your fuse panel (in cabin) and remove the power feed for 10 seconds). Then plug the power feed back in. Start car and see if you have sound. Found youtube video to show you how.

Been discussed before. Simple job.

Yea, those Ford water pumps, just a few hundred thousand miles and they leak like a sive.

New rotors and pads, front and rear. (Brakes rock solid like new. Finally. Rear brakes frozen and most all braking force taken by front). Disassembled and repaired parking brake. Works oil change. PTU drain and fill. ($96. They raised their price again. Probably trying to recover the new pump they bought year or two ago. $10.50 for fluid). Replaced tire pressure band on one wheel. Only took 4 days! (Grunt)

One more complaint. (It's a 2019 MKZ). Had to pull out in traffic rather fast. Shot up to 70 to get ahead of flow then took my foot of the gas to slow down. This was going around a curve. Then the engine quit and I lost all power steering. Had to pull like hell to get it back in my lane (2-lane highway). When I stepped on the brake, the engine started again and I regained power steering. Engine shut off when I was coasting around a curve. With no power steering assist, car is difficult to control.

Ford garage re-doing my brakes, putting in a new pressure sensor, Works oil change and PTU flush, so the gave me a new Lincoln MKZ to drive. It's nice but wife and I don't really like it. Not a that confortable, too responsive in that every little correction in the steering wheel results in a large correction on the road. Runs too fast. Just barely step on the gas and every cop in the county starts heading for CR 27. No CD player (no i don't like jump drives, takes too long to copy). Nice sound but I like my THX better. Put in a good CD and the sub woofer leaves you with ... oooohhhh hell yes. Too hard to get into and exit. You don't slide in or out. You "climb" in and out. Too close to the ground as well. Sigh, newer isn't always better. Unrelated, walked through what used to be their showroom. Now a mortuary. Service Manager told me they're now getting some F150's. Ford turned to Microsoft to get chips. Used car lot way down. Scrambling to find good quality used. Rentals coming off Hertz, etc. signing specific deals with big three to sell cars. Most at elevated prices. Still don't know when they'll get Edge or Nautilus'ss yet. Said every empty field in Michigan is packed full of cars. Asked which chips were in shortage. He said all. Including PCM's. Anything custom to specific car specifications. Some Chineese mfgrs went belly up in COVID stoppage. Some survived but lost people. Most switched over to supply non-automotive chips. Still gearing back up.

Would something like this work.in your case? (I guess I'm still confused as to exactly what your trying to accomplish). Rexing FMT2 FM Transmitter Car Charger w/Bluetooth 5.0, MicroSD Port, Wireless Audio Adapter USB & Type C, Quick Charge 3.0, Enhanced Bass Music Player, Hands-Free Calling, Siri&Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09B4FQ5GD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3Z9M70V7PG4YAMTHRMPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Can't answer if this is an upgrade or not. But it's from a reputable vendor and they offer a lot of instruction guides on subwoofers you can read. https://www.crutchfield.com/g_530/Custom-Subwoofer-Boxes.html

This one is designed to work with your 2020 Edge through Bluetooth. https://www.ensightauto.com/products/usb-integrated-add-on-cd-player-for-2020-ford-sync-3-3-3-4

I just finished reading on another Ford forum where a guy stated he tried several cd players without success. He finally got thi$ one to work: According to compatibility chart, works with Ford Edge Sync 3 through 3.4. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHXY5X3/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1KZSKQMQP80X0ZEEK0FA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Check your cd player details again. From what I've read, they usually state that they can 'receive' audio from a device (phone, etc.) but nothing about 'sending' audio to a device. Be interesting to see if a Bluetooth speaker would connect wirelessly.

From what I've read it's related to dirt or oils blocking the sensor. See if this post helps (different car, same problem). https://www.fordescape.org/threads/intelligent-access-keyless-lock-unlock-stopped-working-help.15393/

Isn't the gen 2 covers molded to the housing? (Not sold separately). And aren't the tabs on the housing and not the cover? (I have a gen 1 and only seen a gen 2 once).

Possibly motor working and blade connection broken. See if blade moves by itself.

I have Fumoto drains (chrome or course) on my garden tractor & backup generator. Use a short length of clear plastic tubing which inserts into an empty plastic, oil container. No drips. Metal to metal, so makes sense. But plastic oil pan would call for a plastic drain (plastic-plastic expansion). And for $16 not a big investment. Would make oil changes much easier as no tools needed (or only a screwdrive in the Dorman case). Wouldn't worry about what little oil left in pan; insignificant. Doesn't make sense if you have oil changes done by mechanic. As for the $80 listed in post is ridiculous price. Don't trust company as there's only $3 worth of plastic involved. (They are selling their own protection when they fail and get sued).

There was another discussion here some time back where to responder claimed it just popped in. This discussion may help: