dabangsta

Depends on the year, but you use most of the words from this TSB (buck, jerk): https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203649-0001.pdf It is 1 hour labor to read the strategy and flash the PCM if you are not covered by the factory warranty or extended warranty.

Do you have an issues, like key in ignition chime never works or it doesn't stop when you remove the key with the door open, intermittent or never tries to start when you turn the key? Usually it needs a replacement Ignition Switch (not the lock cylinder).

Glad you got it sorted, too bad it wasn't something like a disconnected connector or a reset, but it was the part you bought and replaced. I wouldn't survive 10 minutes without tunes.

I think that 2011-2012 that it was pull, not push. You pull it back far enough for it to "click" for high beams, or only slightly for "flash to pass". Weird that it isn't the normal, and not what previous or since Edge's or most Fords work. If you have a wall on front of you, this is low beam (note the cut off line, I also have the fog lights on...and this is a different vehicle but has halogen projectors and not bi-halogen that is why the cut off remains for the high beams): and high beams have a much bigger hot spot:

Welcome! After 15 months and 18,000 miles I still focus too much on the raised fenders (like this is a pre runner or something) and hate the water puddling dip in the hood. I noticed it switching between a 2012, 2017, and 2019 when I was test driving them. I wish I had the memory settings in my SEL, as I am 5'11" and my wife is 4'10" and I have to stand outside of the car moving the seat back enough to get in. But every previous car I have had that had memory and ease of access the first gadget to die has been the front/back action of the drivers seat, even if we switched the same amount in the other cars, which was weird.

It has been awhile since it happened to me, but I had a cut common trace that I had to repair with a special paint, and I have had the wiring connector pull off. This is where they are on my 2019, I carefully slightly pulled the interior cover on the drivers top of the rear window to expose them.

Yes, you need an upper/plenum gasket set. Should be under $10. I went middle of the ground and ordered them when I ordered the plugs and all other maintenance stuff (no coils, just plugs past the scheduled interval):

If you do end up replacing the ACM, this is what I mean with the HD radio on the sticker (versus not having it). Some eBay items have the text of the engineering number that you are looking for, but aren't really it, I would look at the sticker as most are actual photos of the item for sale.

-KD will at least lose HD radio. The DSP is the one with codes, including one that Haz outlined so maybe the pinpoint test f will help narrow it down if it is something that can be done without IDS.

After a year and 19,000 miles, not much has changed. I use the stop and go feature around town a lot. I use it in stop and go interstate traffic with the caveat that I do 2 bars or 3, not 1 bar that I usually use. 1 bar I too frequently get collision avoidance when going from 5 mph to 70 mph back to stopped. I use the very aggressive whoa'ing to change my driving habits and no longer get quite as close to vehicles in front of me in my lane before changing to go around them, and I do use the gas pedal to cross that boundary as I change lanes like you mention. I always forget to disable lane centering in town, so it gets a annoying for it to complain about losing both lines (each intersection), but on the interstate I like it as it takes a bit of the mundane part of driving away, but I also don't like where in the lane it wants me to be, seems to favor the right side and doesn't detect cars there or semis. I have seen the lane keeping go orange in the cluster when lane centering is also on, but never felt it vibrate, I guess I let lane centering do it's thing, it is pretty responsive. I had hoped for better fuel mileage, but my Fusion with the 3.5 (and AWD) can knock down 3 mpg better on the same trip, I guess welcome to the world of taller CUVs. I have a steering wheel with paddle shifters on the way, I have missed those with mountain driving, and if I install a trailer hitch they are nice for towing as well.

No sound at all, even chimes? With it being a Titanium with premium Sony sound, there is an amplifier that has its own fuse. I think that you can use Forscan and an OBD-II adapter to get the engineering number, and if you just buy a used one, you might need that to load your as built date onto the new one. Make sure it has HD radio (which can be seen on the sticker if they show the actual one and not just a representative one).

There is also one that is listed as a few things, w hot weather group (available in some countries), and with towing (which the ST has) https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/climate-control/ac-repair-parts/engine-cooling-fan-motor-and-fan-p-rf318?pdp=y which is part number and engineering number Part #: RF318 (F2GZ8C607A) (A suffix versus E). Since they all have towing, I guess that is the standard ST and not the brushless one? Or maybe it is?

Okay, I thought that was the same document that showed a couple different methods to enter it, depending on what buttons you might have (possibly different B&O versus standard), so I didn't download it to look at it.

I am just cherry picking part of this post. That is how extended warranties work. Up to the date or miles the original warranty is, it is covered by the original warranty, then the extended kicks in, but that 6 year, 120,000 (just pulled numbers out of the air) is from the in service date. When I bought my used 2019 with 1,000 miles left on the manufacturers warranty the financial guy kept wording the extended warranty like it was added on at the end, but when asked the year it would expire, it was 2025, not 2028 like he kept intimating at. I had no plans for it since I rarely get gripes fixed by the dealer unless it is completely obvious, and I decided to invest the 11% of the cost of the vehicle they wanted for the warranty to extend it 2 years and 40,000 miles. The finance guy was no longer my long lost buddy, the extended warranty is where they make their bank.

Which method worked?

My parents stressed out about this type of exploit after watching a news story on it, mostly when traveling and staying in motels. They would keep the fobs in the microwave. I bought them the faraday type fob holders (one pocket is a faraday cage, the other isn't) and they used those instead.

It is available. You can view it or if you get a pressure fault it will show it with the pressures so you know which one is low. On the left screen, select Display Mode then up and down to Tire Pressure.

I think that depending on what controls you have, it is press and hold power, then press and hold seek back (|<<) until it enters speaker walk around mode.

The add on one is a mechanical button one like my 2000 Grand Marquis had. I have seen some creative placements of it, like in the fender well or on the roof or in the cowl by the wipers. $120 for the part, $200-300 for programming (I guess it doesn't program in like a fob like the older ones did). https://accessories.ford.com/keyless-entry-keypad-for-vehicles-with-factory-remote-start

The SecuriCode keypad underwent some weird changes the last few years. 2021 it was standard on SEL and higher 2022 it was standard on ST-Line, Titanium, and ST (now optional on the SEL in the Convenience Package) 2023-2024 it was no longer available on any trim level I have had this on many of my cars since my 1997 Mark VIII and use it frequently, to this day, even with proximity unlock (Intelligent Access). I don't use it as frequently with my Edge, but my wife does (unfortunately). She locks the vehicle with it instead of the IA handle touch. She will eventually lock the keys in it (you can't with IA) and she doesn't know the code. I use FordPass on my fitness watch that connects to my phone in the cabin to unlock it when I leave everything in it, but it is handy and a backup I use enough to remember my code.

I can understand the power button not turning off the display since that is your only way to get to things like climate control, but if you are listening to the radio and push the volume button it doesn't turn off the radio? The owners manual shows that as how you turn off audio, I remember doing it when I was testing vehicles (I didn't want the 2023 I tried, but wanted to compare to the 2019 I wanted).

Hmm, I get close to 50/50 just taking off from a stop light aggressively on dry roads with my 2012 Fusion, and it will never be more than that, being front wheel biased and all. The 2019 ST Supplement document has a little more information on states of TC, ESC, and RSC but no more details on what it actually means. Again, nothing about AWD and without affecting TC I don't think it affects AWD that much, but maybe it does.

It likely allows a little more wheel spin and side to side slip before applying brakes, allowing more over/understeer before correcting. I don't understand how AWD would be more active. You mean applying more or less power to the rear on power application or slip?

You mentioned 2019+ so I looked in my 2019 PDF version of the manual and it has the details. The HTML and PDF versions of 2024 is lacking those details, it seems to be missing from the 2021+ manuals (I guess since it is an ST only feature?). But is in the HTML version for 2019 and 2020: https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/vdirsnet/OwnerManual/Home/Content?variantid=7056&amp;languageCode=en&amp;countryCode=USA&amp;Uid=G1953031&amp;ProcUid=G1953033&amp;userMarket=USA&amp;div=f&amp;vFilteringEnabled=False&amp;buildtype=web

It is documented in the owners manual in the stability control section, how to do it, and what it does (and not to use on public roadways heh).