Leaderboard

I'm happy with this touch-up paint. It doesn't fill in the scrapes but does a good job of masking the curb rash. I might try filling some of the gouges and then using this paint. Midnight Gray Rim Touch Up Paint For Tesla Model S 19" Tempest Wheel Touch Up Paint Rim Scratch Repair Wheel Curb Rash Paint Pen(Midnight Gray)   $15

I finally wrapped up the full camera system install on my Edge. Front Camera I swapped out the factory grille for a black one that already had the camera mount integrated. Definitely the cleanest way to do it — no drilling and a perfect OEM-style fit. Side Cameras The side mirrors were straightforward. Routing the wiring and lining up the cameras was easy. Just a bunch of plastics to remove. Rear Camera This one took the most work. Like I mentioned in my previous post I wanted to retain the factory camera and system, and just add the new camera for the 360 view. I had to get creative. I decided to embed the camera in the logo. Marked and dremel’d out a custom recess behind the Ford emblem. Mounted the camera flush and secured it internally. Ran the wiring through the hatch. Calibrated the image afterward so the lines lined up correctly Honestly, this was the toughest part, but I’m happy with how the end result looks. I think I could have done a better job, or maybe could have thought of something else. But also I really wanted to finish the project. I think I'm going to redo the calibration after the holidays to get a better results but overall it's good. If anyone has ideas for cleaner mounting, I’m all ears.

Even though I never put a wrench to my Edge, except for maintenance, It’s been nice using this forum to learn a lot about it. I just had an itch to upgrade my car. I hope it’s as reliable as the Edge as there are lots gadgets on this thing. I now have a 2025 Lincoln Aviator reserve 2.

UPDATE, I did the same thing fishx65, used one of those Velcro pads and wedged it under the clip. No more rattle! What a nightmare that Ford could not figure this out. Thanks for this Forum.

Checked my records and the failed pads are Centric Posi Quiet - definitely avoid those. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/centric-posi-quiet-pad-delamination-on-both-sides-pic-included.356932/ .

I have the official printed version of the wiring diagram for the 2018 Edge. There is a good chance it is the same as the 2017. It shows that there is only one version of the wiring diagram for the headlamps. I think this is a pretty reliable source. It shows many instances where there are different wiring schemes for different equipment on the car. There are three fuses. F62 and F67. Both are 50amp that go to the BCM. One for each side. The third is a shared 10 amp, F20. (this might be for the HID igniter). I think there is a very good chance that they will work with the existing hardware and require a change with Forscan only.

Looks like the issue is solved. It appears that the previous owner hit a curb or something quite hard with the left rear wheel. It shifted the subframe slightly and bent the control arm. On dry roads there was enough resistance on the rubber that it didn't slip but as soon as it hit slippery the left wheel that was out of alignment would slip causing the swaying. I assume the tires were wearing badly which is why they put the new tires on it before selling the vehicle. Wasn't super expensive to repair. Alignment is good and runs nice and straight on ice now.

"Sometimes..."? I think most times. The search functionality on these forums is just not very good. Not just this forum, but almost all forums I visit. I have never had much luck finding anything on any of the forums I am on. But your advice about using Google is spot on. It even sometimes brings you to the very thread in a forum you were trying to find! Very frustrating.

I haven't heard of a software configuration that could be manipulated by the likes of Forscan. The RDU coupler can be disconnected which will make it permanent FWD.

This problem seems to happen with many Fords. My battery is almost 6 years old now. I have had the symptoms for about a year now. No start stop, radio powers off, no Fordpass, no keyless entry, etc. However, AGM batteries do a better job at hiding symptoms of a bad battery than lead acid. An old AGM battery will still start the car, but the battery will be very slow to accept charge. Some battery testers can be fooled by AGM batteries. Conductance testers estimate battery health by sending a tiny AC signal into the battery. AGM batteries will often show normal voltage, okay conductance, and acceptable internal resistance even when the battery is old and nearly worn out. Battery testers that actually put a real load on the battery will reveal the true battery health. The Edge is equipped with a slightly smaller H6 battery, while the Lincoln Nautilus is equipped with a slightly larger H7 battery.

Does the Edge have an undersized alternator? I do drive many short distances, but it only takes a couple of trips for the start-stop (yes, I know everyone hates that) to stop working and in about ten days, I get the battery saver message and all but the driver's door cannot be locked/unlocked from the outside. I have had the battery checked and replaced, but the problem did not go away. I bought an AC battery charger (Battery Tender) that plugs into my cigarette plug. I keep it on the charger when I am at home. It is a pain since I have to roll down a window to plug it in, but I do not want to get stuck somewhere. I have the first electric Edge!

being a computer guy, finally getting a vehicle with a computer and way to eff around with was peak curiosity. So far i have done the following using Forscan: Police Mode locked gear shift - Enabled Double Honk when running and exiting - Disabled Turn Signal flashes when tapped - 6 (increased from the default 3) Seat Belt Chimes - Disabled Door Ajar Chimes - Disabled Key Fob Remote Window Close - Enabled (only remote window open was enabled) Police Dark Car Mode - Enabled Silent Mode on Left Cluster Screen - Added SiriusXM as a media source - Disabled SiriusXM Travel Link - Disabled Climate Section on Right Cluster Screen - Enabled Sync3 Splash Screen - Raptor (changed from the default Ford logo) Auto Door Relock - 30 Seconds (lowered from 45 seconds) the only other things i was going to do in Forscan at this time from what i read were: - add the option to disable DRL into the IPC and enable the ability to do disable (being in Canada its mandatory to be enabled) - remove the turn signal from always being illuminated and only being active when turning (i think i saw someone do this on an earlier page - pg6 maybe) i updated Sync3.0 to Sync3.4 using Synupdater3 from Cyanlabs....such a nicer look and feel. i was also scanning through https://www.fmods.net/ but haven't yet done any mods or app installs but some do intrigue me.

i'll just pick up a set of glossy blacks vs getting them painted as they are beat up over the last 8yrs.

Good news, keeping the edge. Got it fixed cheap, probably gonna fall apart in a few years but hopefully get me through college.

Feeling adventurous? These go in your side mirrors. $18 https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-amber-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/2-super-red-33-smd-sequential-led-arrows-for-car-side-mirror-turn-signal-lights

My current edge has this problem and I am pretty sure it is a tire tread pattern issue with grooved pavement. The bridgestones I'm driving on came new with this car (used purchase) and they have three deep center channels that run the circumference of the tire. It is my theory that these channel edges catch the grooves and walk with them until they change direction leading to the 'walk back and forth' motion from the rear end. It is my belief that any tire with pronounced center channels will have this problem. I've driven the same grooved roads before with nokian tires and not experienced the same motion. This is my professional amateur pseudoscientific theory of tire drift on grooved pavement.

Reach your arm from the bottom, under the instrument panel instead of through the access panel. Also, check for codes, use ForScan as it can read Ford specific codes and will help you better diagnose the issue.

I have a 2020 Edge titanium and want to add better driving lights. I bought two 150 watt lights and was wondering if I could just use the existing wiring for the stock fog lights. I would just disconnect the existing lights and attach the new lights there. That way they would turn off with brights on. Sound feasible, or would the new lights be too much draw on existing wiring, fuse and relay? Thanks in advance.

The fog lights use 20 gauge wire. They are just small LED lights. If you try to draw more power, the BCM will trip. The BCM utilizes an Field Effect Transistor (FET) protective circuit strategy for many of its outputs, for example, lamp output circuits. Output loads (current level) are monitored for excessive current (typically short circuits) and are shut down (turns off the voltage or ground provided by the module) when a fault event is detected. If the lights use 300 watts at 12V DC, it will draw about: 25 amps. Current = Power / Voltage. 300 W / 12 V = 25 amps (often more at startup). Instead, you should run new wires, fuses, and relays.

Looks like good stuff with PEA. Also look for Top Tier fuel or Shell and Chevron to name a few They all have PEA too. A 20 oz bottle of Chevron Techron with a fill-up will also slow down the crud. As for oil check out Valvoline Protect and restore. I would like to know if it will melt one's plastic manifold too.

Can anyone tell me the fundamental difference between the following values in Forscan? 1. Suppressed. 2. Continuous Only. 3. Self Test Only. 4.Fully Enabled.

STOP - This section is reserved for topics on how to use this site. DO NOT use this forum for Ford Edge discussion.

Hey, when you get the itch, ya gotta scratch it. Nice car...congratulations.

if you have a new ptu, like r and r, it may be a good idea to do it at 3k for break in period.

AWD and 4WD are very different. I don't think whatever you are trying to do is even worth trying. If you want 4WD, buy a vehicle with 4WD. What Edge and what year do you have. For example, the Edge ST has an AWD Sport Mode (double tap the ESC button) that makes the AWD system much more active and aggressive. What model/year do you have?

I looked at the estimate and reached out to the adjuster because I did notice quite a few things missing. I asked about the strut, tire and wheel not being on the estimate and he said that the strut appeared to be okay and that they usually "float" and don't suffer damage. He also said the tire and wheel looked okay. Which I know isn't right. My tire went flat during the collision and that's where the impact primarily took place.

These are interesting changes they made to the performance aspect of this platform. The pan is use worldwide in many applications, many of which are high performance. In my case, I have a stock Edge. The struts thus far are a massive improvement Taking the monroe oe spectrum struts apart, pushing the tube to the floor, the did not return, they where dead. This is at 60k. I have 95k on another pair in a sendan, they are still going strong. Even with old tires, it corners really well. I am tracking a front end noise that may be the new sway bar bushings. They where greased but I may have to get an energy suspension bushing with a geasable joint. Do not know at if this is the noise but it needs to go way. I have greasable energy suspension on another ford sedan, it was making horrible noise. I replaced the sway bar links with those, it is dead quiet. The whole front end has been really good over 95k miles. Double wish bone. So the fcs quick struts are performing very well on a test drive. No plowing with braking. I need to narrow down this noise, the whole front end was replaced. However, with the quality of parts, one needs to proceed with caution. I replace a failed anchor trans mount at 12k, complete garbage. DO NOT buy them. It was riding on the mounting bolt, talk about vibrations in the drivers seat. Everyone can say do oem. I use a lot of oem parts. I wonder if the existing anchor engine mount really has hydralic fluid in it. I put a jack under the oil pan but the vibration at idle did not change. I do know I would never buy another junk anchor mount.

I did mine as per that TSB - its a robust fix. I had the collars in hand but they were too bulky for the available clearance around the shaft/tube - I had all the materials on hand to apply the TSB solution.

I can’t seem to fix the heating of the camera.

My dealer did mine a few years ago, as per the TSB, no issues so far. Just FYI that the TSB fix is holding.

Oh yes I am aware that that would need to be done and can be done in Forscan. Thanks though.

2022 Ttanium Thanks for the add

The guy wants it to stop working. The remote control is fully functional. Everything is fine with that.

They're good cars! My son turns 16 in a couple of years and I'm hoping to have mine still. It would make a great first car for him and hopefully get him through college, too!

How to disable the trunk release button on the key fob using Forscan?

My PTU made a noise similar to this before they replaced it. Gets louder with speed. (Lack of lubrication.) .

Yes. The license plate was the source of mine too. I also noticed (new noise) that the trim pieces on the roof, both sides, just above windshield can make flappy/tappy noises at highway speeds and when I physically tap on them by hand, it replicates the noise.

Today I installed the RH CV Axle. The only battle I had was extracting the axle - all YT videos show smacking the inner joint with a hammer - I even went to Lowes to get a heavier hammer, and that didn't work - see the section of all-thread and nut in the photos - I cut a length of all-thread to fit snugly between the inner joint and a bolt head on the PTU, then holding it with a pliers I backed the nut out and as it reached the end of its thread the axle was free to extract - way better than beating on it. The I noticed the friction material had come off the outboard brake pad - went to Autozone and got a set of new pads - found the same thing on the LH. The LH CV Axle cured the vibration but I could still just a little at exactly 60mph with acceleration - that is gone now. The inner joint on the RH axle had similar wear divots, just not as deep - the lubricant didn't run out like oil as was the case with the LH, but it looked an odd brown color.

Or a completely new type of PTU with the disconnect?

Wonder what's behind Ford switching from the 75-140 to 75-85 for the PTU ?

Hi all, As the title indicates, this is NOT the same loud tapping+rattle noise I previously posted about recently in another thread in this forum. The tapping described in this post only became evident AFTER that noise was fixed. Given how many people complain about EcoBoost tapping noises, and I've experienced two different varieties, I thought this solution might be worth sharing. Here's the tapping noise to which I'm referring in this post: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QP4IAkaUk_68z3KxZwLQGhBsyfpaeFzx/view?usp=sharing Anyway, at the time of purchase this engine was pretty quiet for an EcoBoost engine based on the several I've heard. About 2 months ago the engine very quickly developed a loud tapping noise with some metallic rattling that ultimately was determined to be a failing HPFP (fuel pump) which was replaced by the dealer. There's an audio of that in my other post if you're interested. That fixed, the engine still had a loud tapping noise coming from the back driver's side of the engine, so I decided to see if I could pinpoint it with a stethoscope. Long story not-so-long, everything was pretty quiet, including the intake side cover and the HPFP until I touched the steth to the exhaust-side valve cover at Cylinder #1 (i.e. passenger side) where I heard the tapping noise; however, the injectors are on that side, so I considered those as a potential source. The noise got louder at Cylinder #2, but when I listened to the cover over #3 & #4 the sound was MUCH louder. At some point I touched the steth to the high pressure fuel line, and it was the same sound, same frequency, just a whole lot louder in the steth despite being silent to the naked ear. I thought about that for a couple of days, noticed something the umpteenth time I looked the engine over that I hadn't noticed before, and I formed a hypothesis: The high pressure fuel line was resonating inside the valve cover. I wondered what had changed, because again, the engine was quiet before the HPFP replacement. So what had I noticed? Turns out on this version of the 2.0L the HPFP was moved from the end of the exhaust side to the same end of the intake side, and in this configuration part of the high pressure fuel line passes over the exhaust-side valve cover where it is anchored to the top of the cover using a bracket and a bolt...over the #3 & #4 cylinders. There's a second bracket on the intake side, but it wasn't noisy there, so I didn't bother. I removed the exhaust side bolt (and noted it was really easy to loosen), and carefully and barely separated the bracket from the cover, had my GF start the engine, and the loud tapping noise was gone. I was correct - the fuel line was resonating inside the valve cover. My final assessment was that whenever the tech replaced the HPFP, he necessarily had to loosen and detach the fuel line brackets, but when he put everything back together, he forgot to torque the exhaust-side bracket bolt. As it loosened it allowed the bracket and bolt to vibrate at the same frequency as the HPFP fuel line, and that was transferred to and resonated inside the valve cover. Once I reinstalled the bolt and tightened everything down properly, no vibration, no noise. So, if for whatever reason you hear a tapping noise resonating from your valve cover, follow the high pressure fuel line, and make sure the bolts used to secure same are torqued tight. It could be a cheap and easy fix to an annoying, expensive-sounding problem.

Yes, you need to update the firmware of the module.

One way you can confirm if the vehicle came with the trailer towing package from the factory is by looking in the instrument cluster / message center. You should be able to find the option to enable or disable it there. If the trailer hitch is aftermarket, then there will be no trailer sway control, because trailer sway control cannot be programmed in after, as shown in SSM-51055.

I don’t use mine for towing. I just use it for a bike rack. I don’t have any trailer lights wired up. There is an optional trailer package, which includes extra cooling and trailer sway control.

Since it is a 2019, and it is not an ST, it has the 8 speed 8F35. While there is a reprogram available for it, you likely wouldn't be able to tell if it has been done or not, not on a test drive, or even short term ownership. The indication of the issue is stated as: So if you detect that, it might not have been done yet, that is what you would be on the look out for.

All 2019-2024 Edges have the 8 speed 8F35. The problem is there is rough behavior from the transmission. To fix the problem, second gear is skipped, making it a seven speed transmission. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10203649-0001.pdf

I had this issue. Hard to start after gas fill ups at times. Rpm’s jump erratically at times, stalls, loss of power etc. Went through 6 different purge valves. Most shops use aftermarket brands so I took a shot in the dark and went to a ford dealer and bought a ford OEM purge valve to make sure it was factory and I haven’t had a problem since. Make sure yer using a FACTORY oem purge valve. Something to do with latency and PWM signal. But since using motorcraft OEM ford purge valve it has completely went away. Not venting tank vapors efficiently back into engine can flood or starve it depending on how well it works with the engines ecm. So OEM. Make sure it’s whats in there! hope it helps.

Dangerous if it started up in a closed garage when no one was aware. But, continuing the thought, if it sensed the battety voltage getting low and sent you a text on your cell .... "I'm sorry to bother you Dave. This is your car, Hal. I'm afraid to tell you but it appears that my battery voltage is getting low. I've tried shutting off everything I can, but it appears that the APIM module and the drivers door mirror have gotten into an arguement and are refusing to listen to me. Would you like for me to open the pod-bay door and start the engine?"

I have spare SJB from another Ford Edge 2008. I dissembled it and I guess it is tpms antenna: