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  1. Just an update on the Disconnect RDU gear oil: Ford Recommended Gear Oil = Motorcraft Rear Axle Oil - XY75WQL at a mere $32.99 on Amazon. I just got off the phone with Redline Technical Service. According to Redline, their corresponding oil will be Red Line 50604 MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 High-Performance Full Synthetic Gear Oil Lubricant for Manual Transmissions & Transaxles - 1 Quart. for $22 on Amazon Nothing apparently available from Motul. Just an FYI for those interested. Also Note: While it's true as stated by someone earlier, Ford can't deny you ( allegedly ) any claim if you use Ford Recommended products. However, in reality, the manufacturer can't deny a claim as long as you use the appropriate grade product, IE; if you use a comparable 5W-30 motor oil other than Ford product, all else being equal, they can't deny you. Just remember to use quality products, not some cheap version from Walmart, etc.
    3 points
  2. 3 points
  3. *** This is an Advance Notice -- This post will be updated when the Full Dealer Bulletin is released ***
    3 points
  4. UPDATE: Late last week, the dealership diagnosed it as a bad transfer case. Iโ€™m hoping this fixes the issue but we shall see. ๐Ÿคž๐Ÿผ
    3 points
  5. Thank you for your terrific contributions to this community, Haz!
    3 points
  6. @tuxnet: Relevant sections from the 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual with enlarged procedure illustrations are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Cruise Control Module (C-CM) (with Sensor) Adjustment - General Procedures - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf Bumper โ€” Exploded View, Front - Removal and Installation - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf Bumper โ€” Exploded View, Front - Enlarged Edge Illustrations - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf Bumper Cover โ€” Front - Removal and Installation - 2014 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf
    3 points
  7. Can I please get the correct PTU and RDU fluid type for my 2023 ST. I haven't been able to find them in the owners manual. I've seen different varying types on You-tube videos and and I just want to be clear what are the Ford recommended ones for my particular vehicle. I'd like to know the exact fluids and then maybe get the Amsoil equivalent, or another type if anyone believes there is something better than the Ford recommended type for the PTU, RDU, Transmission & engine oil.
    2 points
  8. I ran into the same problem with my wife's 2018 Ford Edge... it wouldn't remote start but the lights flashed, and the horn honked. Following your suggestion that it might be the hood, I checked but it was completely shut and locked. I opened and shut it again, and the remote start worked perfectly after that ๐Ÿ™‚ Thank you!
    2 points
  9. I've used Redline products for over 20 years and never had any issues, even though I never asked for approval from a car manufacturer, even while the car was under warranty. That goes for gear oil, transmission oil and engine oil. I'm happy with Redline's recommendation. Plus, how would Ford even know the difference? Are they going to send the oil out for analysis? Maybe. They are more likely to deny a claim simply because the Service Rep at your Dealer is a < fill in appropriate name here > and they do not want to process the claim. If a different product meets the Govt. same spec, or higher, than the OEM product, then you have met the OEM spec, at a minimum. It's all a personal choice as to which way you go. I offered the info because: 1. The XY75WQL is expensive and not easy to obtain. I'm not paying $50 a quart ( or whatever they charge ) from a Dealer 2. The MT-LV 70W/75W is an alternative from a highly reputable company ( we are not talking Walmart-branded or any other unknown source product ) 3. The MT-LV 70W/75W is easily available at a much lower cost 4. Since I am changing both the RDU and PDU fluids at 20K intervals, it will be refreshed a lot sooner than Ford's recommendations
    2 points
  10. Overall, I don't disagree with what you are saying, hence my belief to change fluids at a faster rate than OEM usually recommends. Could all be due to meeting certain EPA mileage requirements ( thinner oil = less resistance = easier turning = less fuel used ) but I don't have access to the knowledge base that designed the Disconnect RDU and why Ford states only 75W for this RDU. That's why I'll stick to the recommended 75W for the RDU until I see more, certified information on switching to a thicker gear oil. Same goes for the PDU. However I would not use straight Redline Heavyweight Shockproof ( Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90 ) in the PDU as some have suggested. That stuff is designed to cling to metal and use only in splash boxes. Read multiple reports in the past of people who have used Redline Heavyweight Shockproof in their gearbox and when they took it apart, they found a thick sludge of " Smurf Blood " packed in around the gear case that had to be removed. Redline Lightweight Shockproof is a 75W80 so I would definitely consider using that in the PTU. Always worked great in my 5spd and 6spd with zero issues and smoothed out the shifting
    2 points
  11. Well, the Japanese do things differently than we do in the US. ๐Ÿซ 
    2 points
  12. My Google search results advise against changing viscosity - I would not experiment with it.
    2 points
  13. Hi Davidoo I have a 21 ST and it does not have the PTU cooler either. As STBEAST said, how much is the cooler really worth if you are cycling 200* coolant through it? You also said, " As a side note, I changed the RDU myself and only got about 22 ounces out of it when the specs say it holds 28 plus/minus an ounce. I'm glad I did because it came out completely black, and a lot of sludge stuck to the magnet on the drain plug. I got 26 ounces back in it before it started pouring out the fill cap, so that's all I could get back in. " Per the Oner's manual, the RDU takes approximately 28 ounces. The only way to get just about all of that out is if you pull the RDU cover and let it all drain. You can only get so much out via vacuuming it out.
    2 points
  14. For me I would recommend ForScan lite with the OBDLink MX+ adapter. The OBDLink MX+ also comes with an included app that can also read enhanced diagnostic codes, not just the check engine light, and for most vehicles. The license included with the OBDlink MX+ allows to read enhanced codes for most 1996+ vehicles.
    2 points
  15. RDU: Motorcraft SAE 75W Disconnect RDU Fluid XY-75W-QL PTU: Motorcraft SAE 75W-85 Premium Synthetic Rear Axle Fluid XY-75W85-QL / WSS-M2C942-A ATF: Motorcraft MERCON ULV Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-12-QULV / WSS-M2C949-A / MERCON ULV
    2 points
  16. Just received update 6.14.0 Updated SYNC to build 24058 Revision 1197.
    2 points
  17. My apologies for taking so long to respond back to you. I knew something did not see right with torque values. I guess that is what I get for buying a manual off eBay. Should have come here first. I was able to get the brakes done. I was amazed how easy it was to push the pistons back into the caliper. I do not need to spin them back in. I bought a brake tool compressor kit believing I need to screw them in. Will also use the info here to do the front. Thank you very much Haz for posting this for me.
    2 points
  18. @bogmanglen: Relevant sections from the 2021 Edge Workshop Manual are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor Belt - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Fender Splash Shield - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf
    2 points
  19. As @Wubster100 stated above, sometimes different letters indicate different features or specs, also like different spring or shock rates. However, for the part numbers you listed, the are superceding numbers with the K version being the latest. See this listing where it is clearly stating that the K version replaces the older ones. If you enter any of the older numbers it will automatically take offer you the K version. So all will work, what changed between versions will probably remain a mystery to customers. Generally the latest is the best.
    2 points
  20. Placing your device cursor over underlined acronyms may yield popup full-words descriptions of the acronyms. TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Inbound Call Cannot Be Heard, Wireless Charger Icon Inaccurate, And/Or Auto Hold/Auto Start-Stop/Defrost Button LED Indicators Inoperative 25-2283 25 June 2025 This bulletin supersedes 25-2157. Reason for update: update the customer symptom. Model: Ford 2025 Explorer Lincoln 2024-2025 Nautilus 2025 Aviator Markets: North American markets only Issue: Some of the vehicles listed in the Model statement above may exhibit at least one of the following conditions: โ€ข Inbound call cannot be heard โ€ข Wireless charger icon inaccurate โ€ข Auto hold, auto start-stop, and/or defrost button LED indicators inoperative This may be due to the APIM software. Action: For vehicles that meet all of the criteria in the Issue and Model statements, follow the Service Procedure to reprogram the APIM. Warranty Status: Eligible under provisions of New Vehicle Limited Warranty (NVLW)/Service Part Warranty (SPW)/Service Part New Vehicle (SPNV)/Extended Service Plan (ESP) coverage. Limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. NVLW/SPW/SPNV/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool. Labor Times Description Operation No. Time 2024-2025 Nautilus, 2025 Explorer/Aviator: Perform software update for GWM, TCU and APIM per service procedure. Includes time to clear codes. 252283A 1.9 Hrs. Additional Time For Further Updates To GWM, TCU and APIM โ€œRefer To Warranty & Policy Manual, Section 1.3 For Time Recording Requirements And Procedures For Actual Time. Ford Monitors Module Reprogramming Vehicle History Session Data To Compare Against Warranty Claiming Activityโ€ (Can Be Claimed With Operation A) AP252283B Actual Time Up To 2.0 Hrs. Repair/Claim Coding Causal Part: 14H522 Condition Code: 04 Service Procedure NOTE: The time required to complete this procedure varies depending on several factors including the number of module software updates required, available internet bandwidth, USB flash drive variability, and the potential that CAN flashing (software update via the DLC with FDRS) may be required. Connect to the internet with an ethernet cable, use a USB 3.2 Gen 2 or higher flash drive. When performing USB software updates, using high speed USB ports on the laptop is recommended for faster file transfer. 1. Start an FDRS session and navigate to Toolbox tab > Datalogger > body control module (BCM) and select the BATT_SOC PID. Verify the PID reads 50% or higher. NOTE: Connecting the battery charger negative clamp directly to the battery negative terminal might result in the SOC PID not immediately reflecting the improvement from charging. (1). If SOC is less than 50%, charge the battery by attaching the battery charger's negative clamp to the engine or chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal. Refer to WSM, Section 414-01. (2). If the battery is unable to achieve a 50% SOC, use the Rotunda GRX-3590 or DCA-8000 testers to verify if replacement is required. โ€ข If the battery does not need to be replaced, disconnect the Rotunda charger and perform a BMS reset using the FDRS scan tool. โ€ข If the battery is replaced, fully charge the new battery, disconnect the Rotunda charger and perform a BMS reset using the FDRS scan tool. โ€ข Claim the battery testing and replacement outside of this article. 2. Reconnect the battery charger and set it to maintain a vehicle voltage of 12.6-13.6 volts. A low battery voltage or SOC while performing a software update to any module may result in a repeat "Restart Required" message in the vehicle's center display screen or a message on the FDRS saying "Part Number Validation Failed" or "DID Validation Failed". 3. Run the "Read The Configuration Data" app in FDRS, located in Toolbox > Multi-Module tab. 4. Navigate to the SW Updates tab. Is there a software update available for any of the following modules? GWM TCU APIM (1). Yes - proceed to Step 5. (2). No - this article does not apply. 5. Prepare to update the software for the GWM, TCU, and APIM. (1). A 64GB or larger USB flash drive is required for GWM, TCU, and APIM software updates. USB 3.2 Gen 2 or higher is recommended for faster file transfer on both the computer port and the USB drive. (2). Make sure the USB flash drive being used is formatted correctly. To see the available drives, hold down the Windows icon keyboard key and press the E keyboard key. Right click on the USB flash drive and select Properties. If File System under the General tab is not exFAT, the drive must be formatted. (3). To format the USB flash drive: โ€ข Right click on the USB flash drive. โ€ข Select Format, select exFAT for the File System. โ€ข Select Default Allocation Size for the Allocation Unit Size. (4). De-selecting Quick Format is not necessary and results in a lengthier operation. 6. Using the FDRS, begin module programming by selecting the "SW Updates" tab. Follow all on-screen instructions carefully. 7. When prompted, connect the USB flash drive to the FDRS. 8. When prompted by the USB, safely remove/eject the USB flash drive from the FDRS. Start the vehicle ( KOER) then connect the USB flash drive to the USB media hub to install the software into the module. When the USB software update begins, the center display screen displays a message stating "Do Not Remove USB". The update may take 10 minutes or longer to complete. NOTE: It may take up to 5 minutes for the vehicle to recognize the USB flash drive with software update. 9. When the vehicle's center display screen prompts to restart the vehicle: (1). Turn the vehicle OFF. (2). Wait 10 minutes. (3). Restart the vehicle (KOER). The update is still in process at this time. 10. Follow FDRS on-screen prompts to complete the update. NOTE: It may take up to 5 minutes before "Update Successful" appears in the vehicle's center display screen. After 5 minutes if "Update Successful" pop-up is not shown on the center display screen, remove the USB flash drive and select YES on the FDRS prompt stating "Was The USB Update Successful" ( FDRS verifies if the module software update was successfully installed on the module). 11. Perform the software update for the GWM. Follow all update screens. If there is no GWM software update available, proceed to Step 12. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: โ€ข Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the GWM programming. โ€ข Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 12. 12. Perform the software update for the TCU. Follow all update screens. If there is no TCU software update available, proceed to Step 13. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: โ€ข Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the TCU programming. โ€ข Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 13. 13. Perform the software update for the APIM. Follow all update screens. If there is no APIM software update available, proceed to Step 14. (1). If there is no screen prompt indicating that the software update is in progress: โ€ข Perform the Digital Experience reset. (2). Follow the center display screen prompts. (3). Follow FDRS prompts to complete the APIM programming. โ€ข Once the pop up stating "Update Successful" appears in the center display screen, select Close, remove the USB flash drive from the USB media hub, and select Yes on FDRS indicating the update installed successfully. This initiates the remaining automated configuration steps and reports the module software part numbers and application software levels to the Ford online database. Failure to follow this step results in an inaccurate database as well as omitted, improperly installed, or improperly configured applications (features) such as navigation (if equipped). It is normal for the module to reset during this step. (4). Proceed to Step 14. 14. Format the USB drive. Right click on the USB flash drive. (1). Select Format, select exFAT for the File System. (2). Select Default Allocation Size for the Allocation Unit Size. (3). De-selecting Quick Format is not necessary and results in a lengthier operation. NOTE: The USB drive must be formatted immediately after the APIM software update (prior to updating any other module) or the subsequent updates may fail. 15. Refresh the FDRS files. (1). Click on envelope icon. (2). Select Refresh FDRS Files (this will close FDRS when completed). (3). Launch FDRS (4). Start new FDRS session. 16. Are there any updates available for the GWM, TCU, and/or APIM? NOTE: The option to update a module may not be available until other module(s) are updated to a certain level. The network test is a confirmation that all modules are at the latest available software. Some repairs may require multiple network tests to reveal all module dependent software. (1). Yes - proceed to Step 11. (2). No - repair is complete. ยฉ 2025 Ford Motor Company All rights reserved. NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supersede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources. TSB 25-2283 - Inbound Call Cannot Be Heard, Wireless Charger Icon Inaccurate, And-Or Auto Hold-Auto Start-Stop-Defrost Button LED Indicators Inoperative.pdf
    2 points
  21. Your Edge was built in Canada not the U.Sโ€ฆโ€ฆ.. ๐Ÿ˜Ž It probably means they donโ€™t plan to do any more updates since they switched to the new Google based system. They almost never did any functional changes anyway so of your sync 4 is working fine then this really is no change.
    2 points
  22. Ford has disabled software updates for the computer in your infotainment system called the APIM (Accessory Protocol Interface Module). This is basically the computer that runs your SYNC 4 system (your touch screen, navigation, apps, etc.). If your vehicle's SYNC 4 software version is 23187 or older, your vehicle's infotainment system cannot currently be updated, not even by a Ford dealership. Ford made a technical decision to block updates for certain SYNC 4 systems. As of now, they havenโ€™t explained why. Ford is expected to release more info or a fix later.
    2 points
  23. All I have ever found was a specialized screw driver bit that was broken in half, under the carpet of an older Ford. https://fordauthority.com/2025/07/assembly-workers-wallet-found-inside-2015-ford-edge-after-11-years-video/amp/
    1 point
  24. Mine looked exactly like yours 2 days ago ๐Ÿ˜ You can change it with Forscan. 7D0-01-02 xxxx-xxxx-Xxxx The original value at that position should be a โ€œ3โ€, change it to a โ€œ2โ€, cycle the ignition on/off et voila.
    1 point
  25. Hi! Does anyone have an engine compartment vacuum routing diagram for a 2013 Edge AWD 3.5L? Thanks!
    1 point
  26. Easiest thing to do is get the car up on ramps, or a lift if you can, and engine off, in park, put your hands on the driveshaft(s) and rotate them by hand. They should move slightly but not a lot. Especially pay attention to the areas around the u-joints, connections to the rear diff and transmission. If it feels fairly tight, then there may be no issue at all. Also check any mounting points along the driveshaft(s) to the body as a bolt may be loose causing the noise you are hearing.
    1 point
  27. Agreed. I cleaned it up all with brake cleaner and I will run it around for a couple days. I could also add dye if needed.
    1 point
  28. Trace the drip as best you can to a starting point. Wipe the whole area clean. Check area in a couple of days to see if it repeats. If it does come from the sensor, wipe it clean and make sure it's in tight. You can seal the area with silicone sealer designed for oil, grease, etc. IIRC, that is the grey silicone product.
    1 point
  29. Just purchased new to me 2019 Edge SEL. Have a few questions.
    1 point
  30. Ok thanks guys. Found similar info on the B.I.T.O.G. site. I will stick with the ULV.
    1 point
  31. You can get it directly from ForScan's site. The "Independent edition".
    1 point
  32. The STs have electronic steering so there is no PS fluid. My Dealer recommends the RDU at 30K miles, the PTU they reluctantly say 30K miles and the transmission they say 5 years or 30K miles, which ever comes first. Per manuals, I find brake fluid at 3 years ( no mileage ). Coolant, depending on your source could be anywhere up to 100K miles. However, I typically use the Severe Duty schedule when looking at maintenance service schedules, so those values are typically much shorter than the standard maintenance schedules STBEAST - You don't want to use Redline Shockproof ( either variety ) in either your PTU or RDU. Way too heavy. The PTU calls for 75W85 and the RDU calls for 75W for disconnect RDUs. Apparently only Ford has the 75W fluid available, which can be pricey but it appears it is a special formula specifically for the Disconnect RDU. The Disconnect RDU engages or disengages depending on vehicle engine load. If it were me\, I would only use the 75W
    1 point
  33. Thanks Wub, just ordered me a quart from Amazon.
    1 point
  34. Welcome Vero. Go to the appropriate sub-forum and post up your questions. Someone will be along to provide answers and input!
    1 point
  35. Wubster100 thank you for the info. I too could not find that in my digital owner's handbook. I did see on some previous threads that there are some possibly better alternatives via Redline or Amsoil. One of the popular ones was Redline Shockproof for the PTU?
    1 point
  36. Update: Just rolled over 280,500 miles this morning on the way to work. Only "issue" that comes up from time to time is that I get a warning for a faulty tire pressure sensor. Seems to only happen when it is, or has, rained. Light goes away after a bit so I am not concerned. I checked the rear wheel bearings and all is ok for the time being. Changed the oil over the weekend as well. Engine still seems to not use anything out of the ordinary. Thinking about doing an oil analysis at the next change to see if anything of concern comes up. I need to run the numbers but I am still less than $700 all in, including maintenance, excluding fuel and insurance. Come Fall I will put at least two tires on her and splurge for the two piece driveshaft so I have AWD for the winter. The Lincoln has been my most trouble-free "well used" vehicle purchase I have ever made, based upon a labor and parts perspective. It essentially costs me almost nothing to operate, cannot ask much more out of a vehicle.
    1 point
  37. We have a 2011 Ford Edge Limited which my daughter acquired in the fall to use at a college. At school she rarely uses it. After a couple months she started getting symptoms of a dying battery. She started getting "battery saver" messages on the display. After couple more weeks it would not start without a jump. We figured it was just an old battery so we had her get a new battery. They did a test of the charging system and said there were no problems. A couple of months later the new battery was dead. When she came home I did some in-depth diagnostic testing. I put a multi-meter in line with the battery to monitor the current draw. Once the vehicle is "sleeping" I've monitored the current draw. The normal steady-state is about 17 milliamps. The problem comes every 15 minutes. The current draw suddenly spikes up to 2 amps, stays there for around 10 seconds, then slowly drops down to 1 amp over another 20 second before finally plunging back to the idle current of 17 mA. Note that the frequency is a bit faster when the vehicle first goes to sleep. Initially the frequency is every 5 minutes. It takes about a half hour before it goes to the 15 minute interval, but it then stays at that interval for a long time. To try to find the problem I started pulling fuses one at a time and seeing if the cycle continues. I tried all of the "small" fuses in the engine compartment fuse box first with no impact. I then moved on to the interior fuse panel. The most significant change happened with fuse 6. Fuse 6 is listed as "RF module". As soon as I pull that fuse the 15-minute high current draw stops. I figured that this circuit is probably for the remote keyless entry system. Sure enough, with that fuse unplugged the remote doesn't work at all. I was thinking she could live with using a key to get in, but it also makes the Start button not work. In fact, when you hit the button the car thinks it is being stolen and the alarm starts going off. Anyway, more research pointed me at TSB 13-6-18. This specifically deals with a current draw due to the remote system keeping the electronics awake. I took it to the dealer and they confirmed we had old software and updated the VMCU to version 2.2.14 at a cost of $140. When we got home I put my multimeter on again, waited the car to go to sleep and then watched what happened. No change. Every 15 minutes it's still drawing 2 amps. I'm open to suggestions on next steps in tracking this down as long as it doesn't involve leaving the car with the dealer with a blank check. Thanks
    1 point
  38. PM me if Interested: Steering Wheel, Leather, Heated w/ Shifter Paddles Clockspring, Heated Right Stalk w/ Auto Wipe Left Stalk w/ Lane Assist Switch LH, Lane Centering, Adaptive Cruise Switch RH, Audio Controls Power Tilt, Power Telescope Steering Column
    1 point
  39. First have you read this post: 2012 Ford Edge Ambient Lighting Issue - Glass, Lenses, Lighting, Mirrors, Sunroof (BAMR), Wipers - Ford Edge Forum https://share.google/WL7F8CNTqRp3sXS0k Other than that, the Ford p/n CL8Z-13E700-AA is shown as discontinued. (?)
    1 point
  40. Does anyone know how to order replacement parts for the factory ambient lighting? Both of my footwell lights are acting up.
    1 point
  41. Special Service Message 53992 - 2025 Nautilus - Features Turned Off During Vehicle Shipment - Built On Or After June 16, 2025 2025 Nautilus vehicles built on or after June 16, 2025 will come with the climate control system, interior lamps, ambient lighting, autolamp exit delay and easy entry and exit features turned off. This is being done to preserve battery state of charge during vehicle shipment. These features should be turned back on during the electronic pre-delivery inspection (ePDI) process and prior to delivery to customers. Refer to the appropriate Owner's Manual sections for additional instructions of how to turn these features on.
    1 point
  42. @razziel24 it looks great. The work you did might not please all but, if you like it, it is great.
    1 point
  43. Found out our battery was in bad shape had it replaced no problems since then. The BMS kicks in and starts doing all kinds of weird stuff
    1 point
  44. It depends on whether the engine software is designed to take advantage of higher octane by advancing the timing. Thats where the extra power comes from - has nothing to do with the fuel per se.
    1 point
  45. Welcome to the Forum @EdgeGT350! As @enigma-2 indicates, with us looking to the 2013 Edge Owners Guide pictured below (with relevant text highlighted in yellow )... However, before you disable your Edge's power liftgate, you may want to perform a Power Liftgate Reset to see if it eliminates the partial-opening issue... ion But, rather than disconnecting the vehicle's battery to perform the Reset, removing the Fuse #7 in the Power Distribution Box for 20 seconds fully performs the Power Liftgate Reset and it only affects the Power Liftgate circuit... Please consider reporting back here on what effect the Power Liftgate Reset has upon the partial opening issue. Other diagnostic steps are available if the Power Liftgate Reset procedure provides no improvement. Or, you can disable the Power Liftgate, per your original question. Good luck!
    1 point
  46. Yep, better to overfill PTU, than underfill; that gearoil gets cooked so the more you can fit into that gearbox the better. After drilling\tapping & installing a Fumoto DrainValve in the PTU bottom & a fill hose on the PTU top vent barb with a fill can under the hood, now change the 75w140 AmsOil every 6mths along with routine engine oil changes. Hopefully makes it last as long as the rest of the car.
    1 point
  47. Many thanks for the feedback. I found this page describing the parts to some degree: https://www.quirkparts.com/v-2011-ford-edge--sel--3-5l-v6-gas/electrical--keyless-entry-components In the section near the bottom there are two modules listed, but one is discontinued. The first module is listed as a "control module" BB5Z-15k602-N, and the description just makes it sound like a radio receiver. The second module is just called "module" BT4Z-19G481-F and no description of function is given. Would you happen to know which is the "RKE" module? If it is the second one is there a replacement part? I hadn't realized about the BMS reset. The videos I've found all show a car with a key and not push-button ignition. I'll keep searching for for a video showing this configuration.
    1 point
  48. Thanks for the info. I'll look into it
    1 point
  49. https://forscan.org/home.html https://forscan.org/download.html
    1 point
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