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Hello everyone, I’ve been following this thread with a lot of interest — great work from all of you digging into the 360 retrofit! I’ve been wanting to achieve a similar result, but I decided to take a different approach. I went with a third-party 360 AVM kit and set it up to integrate with the SYNC screen on my 2023 Ford Edge. There really isn’t anything compatible out of the box with the Edge, but I noticed the Edge and Ranger share similar hardware and modules. And notice I said similar — not the same. It’s been a long process — I’ve done tons of research and a fair amount of trial and error to figure out the video inputs, CANBUS integration, and DIP switch configurations needed to get everything displaying correctly with the factory screen and triggers. With this I do have dynamic guidelines, parking sensors, multiple views along with the top-down bird view. Also I did retain the factory camera and camera view, and I can jump between factory view and 360 kit view. It’s still a work in progress, but going this route gives me more flexibility compared to being locked into the OEM restrictions. I’ll share more updates as I continue refining the setup. Next steps will be to mount all the cameras

I don't think they are " one-time use " either but Ford is being cautious. It's like saying, on older cars, every time you change the oil you have to change the oil drain plug gasket. Not a true statement. It's very tight in there to remove that PTU cover plate without moving anything else. I chose to buy a MityVac unit specifically for vacuuming out the gear fluid. Sucked it almost dry. I used another MityVac unit, so I didn't have to clean them in-between same-time uses for the PTU, to pump the new gear oil in. Took the correct amount of fluid as specified in the manuals. ( That's why I said it sucked it dry ) And, of course, a lot less messier.

Well, I've done something rash. Traded my 2019 Flex NA AWD for a 2024 Edge ST. The Flex had 105K on the clock and I wanted a vehicle with a official Ford tow package for the small trailer I'll be pulling. Local Ford store had one I liked, so I got it. Has a few more miles than I'd like (39K), but I might just run it for a couple years and switch to an Explorer ST (unless you all talk me out of it...). It is fun to drive and in regular driving is getting better mileage that the Flex. We'll see how it tows the trailer, as I leave Wednesday for the trip. The Flex had tons of room when you laid down the second row seats, so I'm gonna miss that, but the trailer lets me put some stuff that used to go in the car now into the trailer. It's just a 5X8 trailer holding my Honda ATV. So all told maybe 1200lbs. The items I put in the back of the car for the trip should just fit. I need 67" and the Edge has 70". Tuesday is loading day. Sorry I don't have a pic of the car yet. But it's a very dark Blue. Don't know the official color name... The B&O sound system is kinda cool. Pic attached to show what has to fit in the back... it comes apart, but the longest piece is 67" long. sidebar: why did it put the pic sideways, and how do I correct it?🤔

If it helps anyone doing this themselves, I'm able to monitor transmission fluid temp (the TFT PID) using the MXLink obd2 bluetooth connector.

The little things matter 😉 Added glove box compartment light back in the Edge. Don't know why Ford deleted it in the first place. Scored a 2017 Edge glove box lamp harness and damper from the junkyard. With a little bit of DIY (dremel action & soldering), swapped out the LED PCB for a brighter aftermarket one. I made a T-harness to tap into the passenger side (visor) vanity mirror lamp circuit. Ran that down the psngr side A-pillar all the way to the glove box.

Happy to be aboard. I own a 2018 Edge Titanium.

Hello, picked up a 2020 Edge ST last week and looking forward to digging into what it is all about. Have a 2013 Focus ST that I’ve worked and modified quite a bit. Hope to find some good info and share anything I can.

My 2024 has the cooler, and I used the suction method to get the fluid out. I wanted to remove the cooler but the studs to remove it are basically impossible to get a socket or wrench on so I gave up.

I confirmed with Bellevue Ford tech that their service manual says the same about adding 1L once full to the 2019+ ST.

Finally got the time to install the rotors and pads I got in June on my ST. Not that hard to do if you have the right tools. The 7mm and 11mm Allen sockets and the 18mm standard socket are not normally found in most tool sets you buy. A 1/2 inch impact wrench is also a good idea to have for the job. I can't find the thread here, but the idea to use a bolt through the holes for the anchor plate to remove the rotors is spot on. Both front rotors would not budge using a rubber mallet. I only had time to do the break in. So I cannot comment on how they function yet. The front pads had a lot of life left and the rotors were in pretty good shape. The rear pads were completely worn out and needed to be changed. I'll report back on how the brakes perform.

Changed the fluid in the 2019 Edge ST today. 45k miles on it, fluid looked a touch red still and didn't stink. No metal shavings. TFT up to ~185 Drained 4.7 qt / 4.44 L Added 5.28 qt / 5 L per FSM TFT up to >185 Pulled leveling plug and drained .68 qt / .650 L out (until fluid dripped down side of case) Added 1.05 qt / 1 L after leveling plug back in (??? its what FSM said so I did it ..) No idea if I was low to begin with but I followed the FSM exact. 2022 Edge ST Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill (2).pdf 2019_edge_transmission.pdf

Just saying Hi. New member to the forum with a recently purchased 2018 Edge SE w/ 54k miles on it. Hoping to have a good experience with it.

Update: I changed my RDU & PTU fluids recently. I was surprised to find the RDU actually had a drain plug. Not all cars do. While I filled it up simply as boostededge said above, I pumped it in using a pressurized device and it actually took the full amount as specified in the manual. As for the PTU, I sucked the old fluid out using a vacuum device and pumped fluid in using the same pressurized device I used for the RDU, and again, it took the full amount as specified in the manual. As far as whether or not the PTU has a cooler, I'm wondering if a PTU cooler is installed where original vehicle destination is a dealership in the hotter climates of the country. IE; NorthEast US has colder climates than Arizona so I would expect, maybe, that would be why Arizona would get a PTU cooler and the NorthEast does not. (?)

For giggles, I actually ran my 2018 Edge through Chat GPT with some cosmetic modifications and a hidden light bar. Didn't get the wheels right but the grille is on point. Aside from that, nothing new to report.

I would go with the H6 AGM Everstart Platinum from Walmart. Be sure to reset your battery monitoring and select a new battery code if you change size and type.

That is the 8F57 specs (full plus 1 quart), the 8F35 is just fill to the bottom of the sight plug.

You dont really have to worry about how much fluid the RDU takes if you can get the vehicle level. Just pump it in until it runs down the case and its full.

All model years have RDU with clutches. So when the clutches are disengaged it effectively "disconnects" the rear differential from the driveshaft. Pre 2019, the driveshaft will still turn because it is connected to the PTU/Transmission/Engine, while the rear differential will turn based on the speeds of the rear wheels. 2019+ models, the driveshaft stops rotating when the PTU disconnects. As can be seen in this video:

This recall is now showing on my CarFax.

I have as well. Thumbs up from me. Mine has information about my ESP, etc. Manual and wiring diagram - love it - pdf format, so it is a big file, but I love that it is searchable.

I thought when I had my brake hoses replaced that would be the end of this issue. I guess not! https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a65921786/ford-edge-lincoln-mkx-suvs-brake-hose-failure-recall/

Next time i go work on it I'll definition check if the instrument cluster is plugged in. Where abouts is would I find that plug? I really don't know where to go from here. I'm thinking of just bringing it in to a shop to see if they can figure it out. I just need to know what to change. Electrical diagnosis is my kryptonite. I appreciate any direction.

My 2024 has the cooler as well. There was a previous thread where someone pulled the cooler out just enough to let the fluid drain out and put it back in using the same studs and o ring. One disadvantage to the cooler: it takes up more space in the ptu, reducing fluid capacity. Not sure how beneficial circulation 200 degree (plus) through the cooler could do much to help.

PN: K2GZ-7A010-M from thread -

Hello, do you have wiring diagram for Blind spot detection system? I have EU Edge 2017. Part numbers for brackets and radars appreciated as well. Thank you Edit: Most probably these part numbers: Radar: FT4T14D453AD or JR3T14D453CA (newer version, from 2017, according to the some discussion about Mondeo MKV more precise) Bracket: FT4T14D189A

Found this 2013 Edge sel 2.0 ecoboost and had to have it.. So far it's been good to me.

Yes, my car is without unfortunatelly. I did this modification on Focus MK3,5, it is quite simple but wiring is needed. It seems that wiring is same as on Smax or Mondeo MK5.

Stupid question, did you ever check to see if the instrument cluster is plugged in?

Car is over five years old so I'm thinking it's probably good to replace the original factory battery. Question is, what does every one think is the best replacement? I understand that it should be an H6 or Group 48 AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery but beyond that I'm not sure what the best choice would be. I know I could go right to my local Ford dealer but I suspect that might be the most expensive option. What should I do?

I have experienced the Parasitic Battery Drain on my 2011 Ford Edge SEL and the fix was unbelievably simple. I experience very odd behavior with my SYNC software, such as filling the tank but didn't show full, getting an incoming phone call that did not match my uploaded address book (for example, my wife would call me, but the SYNC display showed some other contact that wasn't even close.) Same for outgoing calls, I would select the number from my iPhone contact list and when it dialed, a different name was shown on the SYNC display. Then I started having the dead battery symptoms, car not starting (just clicking sound), when I KNOW the battery was totally charged. Sometimes too I would get a weird flashing of the SYNC screen. I tried updating the software, but then I would get a message "You already have the latest software...". The solution? I simply did a Master Reset which resets everything to factory defaults. You lose all your Bluetooth devices, etc, but easy enough to link again. It's been 2 weeks now and not a single issue! So, before you start changing fuses, relays, etc, just try this simple Master Reset. It might work for you too.

i don't have the patience to watch that video. one second in, and i'm out. I'll just trust you, apparently i'm wrong mark the date .. lol

Disregard! Yes but even if the PTU disconnect is disconnected, the rear wheels are still rolling down the road, and driving the driveshaft. Unless there is a disconnect at both ends of the driveshaft? I didn't think they did that..

As mentioned, it depends on the year. 2019+ has a disconnect in the PTU.

Whoa, ho, ho. After reading Omar302's post, I did some more digging. Seems Levittown was wrong. (But not me, of course .... :-) Here's what I'm finding now; "ML3Z-19A361-A is the part number for the Ford Perimeter Plus Vehicle Security System, a shock and impact sensor module. After a simple plug-and-play installation, the module automatically activates with an ignition cycle. Dealer programming is only needed if you want to add the optional remote start feature." So ill just sit here on the patio, feed the squirrels and hummers, drink my martunies and think happy thoughts. Let us know if you decide to go ahead and put one in.

I'm still driving my 2009 MKX, and love the body roll. Course that doesn't happen as much after I had new shocks put on. Anyway, "rolling, rolling, rolling, though the streams are swollen Keep them tires rollin' Rawtread" (Old tv series opening theme song... Very old.) Anyway, there's "no oil change required" function on the first generation, and there's no "oil life xx%". Just change a 5k intervals. "Don't worry, be happy."

I look at the guides and check for a foreign body blocking (or perhaps pinching) the travel of the screen. .

Got the Edge back Saturday. Feels like brand new-ish again. Steering is 100% better. They replaced the rack unit and associated parts. I did see in their notes they said the steering shaft was loose at the rack unit, hmm, yeah that's possible given the symptoms I experienced. We'll see how things go, but so far so good, problem gone.

All I did to level was remove the bumper cover. Park on level surface. Use bubble level vertically and horizontally. The programming drive takes care of any minor misalignments.

Awesome man. Thanks for the write-up and the pics. Mine are good right now, but it's something to tuck away and remember...hopefully!

This is good to know. Thank you for the how-to. I bought my 17 new with the cup holder fingers loose. Warranty replaced the entire assembly. Was probably this same tab broken. Luckily this has not happened again, but good to know how to fix it if it does.

i replaced my 2011 camera with a "less than 100" dollar camera from amazon. got great reviews and had an amazing picture .. so much better than the original. but 2 years later it had gotten fuzzy and not so good. this was parked in a carport. i sold the car so not sure how it is today. but i would try to get the best camera i could afford.

@bogmanglen: Relevant sections from the 2021 Edge Workshop Manual are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Air Conditioning (A-C) Compressor Belt - 2.0L EcoBoost - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Fender Splash Shield - Removal and Installation - 2021 Edge-MKX Workshop Manual.pdf

Welcome to the Forum, @giraffegeoff! Looking at your photo -- as you have no doubt already recognized -- there are clear visual differences between the red-arrowed side on which the unlatching button is sagging, and on the green-arrowed side where the unlatching button is not sagging... The plastic piece, pictured in your palm, likely broke away from the sagging-button-side, where it previously supported the button, and its rectangular stem passed through the red-arrowed voids to release the lid's latching mechanism. The button/latching mechanism is available only as Provided In Assembly (PIA), meaning that buying the entire storage compartment bin/lid assembly is required, if you wish to replace it. Ford's online parts-selling site offers several photos of the replacement part... Link to this FordParts webpage It's worth noting that the underside-view photo provides little detail of the button/latching mechanism, though it is possible an engineering improvement was made to the original mechanism design. The instrument panel storage bin lid assembly (FT4Z58301A05AA) is retained by two screws holding the audio speaker in place, and by two screws into the center stack... Accessing the two center-stack screws requires removing several adjacent components, as described in the two Workshop Manual sections that are attached below as PDF documents... Good luck! Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) - Removal and Installation - 2016 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf Instrument Panel Upper Storage Bin Edit - Removal & Installation - 2016 Edge Workshop Manual.pdf

2016 Ford Edge SEL I purchased a new 2016 SEL from Ford and immediately noticed a "fluttering" noise or what sounded like a strap flopping around under the passenger side of the car. I crawled under thinking that maybe something was left loose, or a strap was flopping around in the wind under the body. I could not find anything obvious. I did see a long hard board with a felt like finish that covers the under-body with unique and noisy center connectors. I took the car in to a Lincoln dealership and they had already dealt with the same issue on a different but same year Edge. They told me it was the rattle in the center connector of under-body "felt" panels. They corrected the issue by installing some sort of buffer material in the fasteners. The noise is now gone. It was loud and annoying at times, in particular when heavy cross wind was coming from the passenger side of the vehicle. I chose to start this message because I know this concern is not unique to my vehicle. I travel for a living and often have Ford Edge rentals, and about 1 out 2 have the same noise. It must be a known issue to Ford, however the Lincoln service adviser said there is no TSB for this issue. I also had the Lincoln warranty service address what sounded like cheap plastic to plastic noises coming from the dash while traveling over rough road. They isolated the poorly designed fasteners and buffered them as well. The dash noise is now much improved. I am disappointed in Ford for first not building this vehicle better, this is not a first generation model and these types of issues should be long since engineered out of the platform in my opinion. This Ford Edge is far and above the most rattle and noise filled vehicle we have purchased from Ford and unfortunately lowers my sense of confidence in Ford overall. We paid too much for this car to have what I perceive to be "cheap" fit and finish and poorly engineered fasteners. I hope this helps anyone who may have similar noises coming from their late model Ford Edge.

I know the thread is oldish but for others wondering how to get the AT out of the "manual mode" - press and hold the right hand side paddle (keep some 2-3 seconds) and it will blink on the dash and switch back to full auto. This is what i can see in my 2022 ST. Cheers!

Took about 1.5 hours to complete this morning. All the old parts were in really good condition and the only real sign of deterioration was the idler bearing, it had expelled a little lubricant and felt just a little notchy. There's no room to get a socket and breaker bar on the tensioner to retract it for removal and installation of the belt so resorted to two ratchet wrenches seen in one of the photos. No doubt these components were good for another few thousand miles but I cant put a number to it, so given the choice again I'd change them at the same mileage, 103,000 mi.

The only real downsides to using trans fluid are that trans fluid does not have the same film strength, sheer stability or viscosity.., but if you're going to keep on it for maintenance, it will not be a problem. Probably. Just know that a leak will empty it much faster than it would with OEM fluid, and the grease that was in there (dried up gear lube) had more lubricity to it than the film left behind by transmission fluid if it leaked out. the right side seal should be monitored closely. I'm curious how this will turn out. Keeps us updated?

I'm still here. I've grown to appreciate the edge more. I'd even consider getting a new one. Coming from the rocket ships I was driving before this it was a bit of a shock. I still have several dislikes. I hate the dash cluster, I hate sync, and I hate that the car has zero audible exhaust note. But I love the interior, and now that my Scat Packs that I paid 41k for (46-48k sticker) are laughably being sold for 65k. I appreciate the edge st more. I would NEVER pay 65k for a dodge charger or challenger with the garbage interior quality that mine had. I love the sound system on the edge, best I've ever heard in a car, I love the headlights, I love the sunroof, I love the handling, I love the versatility, I love the looks, I love the self driving features, I love the front camera, I love the color... there are a lot of things I love. Once I realized that this was an suv and that 5.7s 0-60 is pretty respectable my attitude changed. Also owning the car for a year (still only has 5k miles on it) and having no issues other than a chipped windshield that nobody knows how to properly replace (had it done twice, and neither time they got the seal right. Second time they dented the hood (but PDR folks are thankfully magicians). I got the Motorola ma1 for wireless Android auto and thay helped a lot with mitigating the buggy nature of sync not picking up on my USB stored music. My neighbor has a Durango RT and it's way slower than the edge but it sounds so much better. I just don't understand why Ford gave such a quiet exhaust on an ST. Oh I'm also still not a huge fan of the transmission, it has some rough shifts here and there. I don't regret my purchase though. Idk how I got a brand new fully loaded edge ST for just about 41k. All of the 2022s are 55k+ now. My car was built in late December 2020 is a 2020 model year. I have a feeling it was supposed to be a 2021 but they didn't have the screen to make it a 2021 so they just made it a 2020 with the old screen. I don't think I'd spend 55k on the edge st honestly, since you can get other slightly slower but equally equipped cars for much much cheaper but for what I paid there is absolutely nothing comparable on the road. I often defend the Edge ST against people who say "it's not an ST" idk what world those people are living in but the ST Focus and Fiesta were never fast cars. I think the ST focus did 0-60 in 6.5 seconds, which the edge beats. After doing the ST SUV Experience I'm well aware of the handling abilities of this car, it's amazing. Oh one more thing that bugs me but is not uncommon for performance cars, I wish this had adjustable steering. The wheel is very heavy which is good for around town precision driving but very tiring on long road trips. Not too bothersome for me since I rent a car anytime I go more than 250 miles round trip but...

Would it be possible to record the noise that you are experiencing? I've read some reviews that stated a "hum" sound. I don't think that I have ever seen it described as "noise". Is it a drone type sound? If its not sweet music coming from the engine bay or nice exhaust note. I think we can all agree that we don't need any extra noises from our edges. I understand that sound/ noise is subjective and everyone's threshold is different, but this noise sounds if its in the unacceptable category. Hopefully it becomes tolerable after you put some miles on her. This review is the most in-depth review that, I have come across that compares the CPE and UP rear motor mounts. It sounds/ feels like the 60 Duro UP RMM may be the answer. (no pun intended) Granted he says that he feels as if his cp-e mount is 70 Duro. That would account the significant difference he experienced between the two. CP-E vs UP RMM HTH

Chemical Guys products are awesome.